802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Clutch

Choose a Year for your Mini 's Clutch

  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Exedy
    Exedy
  • LuK
    LuK
  • Rhino Pac
    Rhino Pac
  • Sachs
    Sachs
  • Valeo
    Valeo

Best Selling Genuine Mini Clutches

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Exedy, Rhino Pac, Sachs, Valeo
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mini Replacement Clutch Parts

We stock Clutch parts for most Mini models, including Cooper, Cooper Countryman.

Exedy
2004 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-2984DA2    BMK1000  New

Qty:
$224.52
  • Discmm 200; Discin 7-7/8; SplinesDia 13/16; Splines 18
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mini Cooper W10B16A 5 L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2004 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-2984DA2    BMK1000  New

Qty:
$224.52
  • Sold As Kit Only ; Discmm 200; Discin 7-7/8; SplinesDia 13/16; Splines 18
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mini Cooper W10B16A 5 L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2007 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-4D2D236    BMK1001  New

Qty:
$248.89
  • Sold as Kit Only ; Discmm 215; Discin 8-1/2; SplinesDia 1; Splines 14
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mini Cooper W11B16A 6 Supercharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2007 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-1BAA995    BMK1001FW  New

Qty:
$419.44
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Sold as Kit Only Solid FW Conversion ; Discmm 215; Discin 8-1/2; SplinesDia 1; Splines 14
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mini Cooper W11B16A 6 Supercharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2005 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-423F04E    BMK1013  New

Qty:
$258.68
  • From 7/04, Sold as Kit Only ; Discmm 200; Discin 7-7/8; SplinesDia 13/16; Splines 17
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mini Cooper W10B16A L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2007 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-4033251    BMK1014  New

Qty:
$365.31
  • From 11/06, Sold as Kit Only ; Discmm 200; Discin 7-7/8; SplinesDia 3/4; Splines 17
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mini Cooper N12B16A L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
Exedy
2004 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-2984DA2    BMK1000  New

Qty:
$224.52
  • Sold As Kit Only; Discmm 200; Discin 7-7/8; SplinesDia 13/16; Splines 18
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mini Cooper W10B16A 5 L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2007 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-4D2D236    BMK1001  New

Qty:
$248.89
  • Sold as Kit Only; Discmm 215; Discin 8-1/2; SplinesDia 1; Splines 14
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mini Cooper W11B16A 6 Supercharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2007 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-1BAA995    BMK1001FW  New

Qty:
$419.44
Exedy Clutch Kit
  • Sold as Kit Only Solid FW Conversion; Discmm 215; Discin 8-1/2; SplinesDia 1; Splines 14
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Trans. Speed Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mini Cooper W11B16A 6 Supercharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Exedy
2005 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Exedy

P311-423F04E    BMK1013  New

Qty:
$258.68
  • From 7/04, Sold as Kit Only; Discmm 200; Discin 7-7/8; SplinesDia 13/16; Splines 17
Brand: Exedy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mini Cooper W10B16A L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Rhino Pac
2007 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-4FB97FD    03-050  New

Qty:
$138.74
  • 8-1/2'' Mini clutch kit
  • Use with DMF only; DMF
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.500 X 1.000 X 14t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.5
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Aspiration Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mini Cooper 6 Supercharged SOHC L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Rhino Pac
2008 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-4FB97FD    03-050  New

Qty:
$138.74
  • 8-1/2'' Mini clutch kit
  • To 4/06;Use with DMF only; DMF
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.500 X 1.000 X 14t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.5
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Aspiration Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mini Cooper 6 Supercharged SOHC L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Rhino Pac
2003 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-2B9ADAE    19-522  New

Qty:
$134.73
  • 7-7/8'' Mini clutch kit
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 7.875 X .812 X 18t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Mini Cooper 5 SOHC L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Rhino Pac
2004 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-2B9ADAE    19-522  New

Qty:
$134.73
  • 7-7/8'' Mini clutch kit
  • to 6/04
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 7.875 X .812 X 18t
    • KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL: No
    • KIT INCLUDES SLAVE CYLINDER: No
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mini Cooper 5 SOHC L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Sachs
2008 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.6L Sachs

P311-473AF3D    K70339-01  New

Qty:
$166.55
  • Clutch Kit
  • Standard; Kit Only; O.D : 8 1/2 ;I.D : 1 ;TEETH : 14T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mini Cooper 6 Supercharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1600
Valeo
2004 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit Valeo

P311-30EE228    W0133-1766891  New

Qty:
$294.38
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Production: 07/01/2004-, 200 MM
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2004 - Mini Cooper Base Fr:07-01-04
Valeo
2008 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit Valeo

P311-30EE228    W0133-1766891  New

Qty:
$294.38
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • 200 MM
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body
2008 - Mini Cooper Base Convertible
Valeo
2016 Mini Cooper Countryman Clutch Kit Valeo

P311-0C7C65D    W0133-1955150  New

Qty:
$386.99
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Includes: Disc, Pressure Plate, Release Bearing.
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2016 - Mini Cooper Countryman John Cooper Works ALL4
Valeo
2012 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit Valeo - w/o Alignment Tool

P311-4C5E23A    W0133-1975444  New

Qty:
$395.60
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • w/o Alignment Tool
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2012 - Mini Cooper Roadster John Cooper Works
Valeo
2006 Mini Cooper Clutch Kit Valeo

P311-41DD014    W0133-1933547  New

Qty:
$227.63
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with vehicles that have had the Dual Mass Flywheel converted to a Solid Flywheel / Clutch Assembly
  • This kit includes Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and Throw-Out Bearing.
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2006 - Mini Cooper S

Latest Mini Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Mini Cooper - Steering Wheel Vibrates when Accelerating

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Hinderloppet on 2002 Mini Cooper - Steering Wheel Vibrates when Accelerating

2002 Mini Cooper
82,000 Miles
4 cylinder, 1.8Liter engine

I recently took my car to a local shop to get the transmission rebuilt. The bearings were gone as was the clutch plate and it was making a grinding noise. Now, when I accelerate at high speeds or accelerate hard, the steering and front end vibrates. The guy I took it to for the rebuild said it is the CV Joints, but when I asked him why I never had this problem before he worked on my transmission, all he could say is "guess they must have just gone bad". He wanted to charge me just $800 for the parts, and I think he did a crappy job on the rebuild. So, not sure if I want to take it back to him.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

He would have removed the axles to remove the transmission. t sounds like he pulled the inner joint apart while tryng to get it out of the transmission.

Response From Hinderloppet

Is that easy to fix, or difficult?

Response From Hammer Time

It probably needs a new axle now. It would have to be inspected.

2005 Ford e350 air conditioning not working

Showing 2 out of 31 Posts | Show 29 Hidden Posts
Question From ericwalker on 2005 Ford e350 air conditioning not working

I need help diagnosing ac issue in 2005 ford e350 truck 5.4L 8 cylinder automatic. The AC is not working properly: Blower speeds work, no cold air. I looked to see if the compressor was running when I turned on the ac and it was not. I do not want to make a move until I can pinpoint the problem. I did not check refrigerant level, though the system went from normal cold blowing conditions to vent only condition; and when I saw that the compressor was not running during a normal cycle I figured this may be the problem...

Response From Discretesignals

First thing you should do is connect a set of ac gauges up to the system and see what kind of static pressure it has. Would be kind waste of time to chase electrical issues if you have a low charge.

Response From ericwalker

Thanks, will do, what should the static pressure be for this truck?

Response From Hammer Time

The static pressure will vary with outside temp but anything over 50PSI will engage the compressor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Static Pressure chart. Note that this is what refrigerant pressure will be (system off) just like checking tire pressure. It's pretty exact. Engine heat will change the under hood temp.


If or when lower than these #s it's low on charge. Leaks common. Don't aimlessly charge but find leaks, charge to spec. Don't wait too long as if a true low charge oil isn't circulating properly and will destroy compressor and more. Be fast and might save a lot of extra work. Chart............




T

Response From Hammer Time

That's a whole lot more information than you'll need. All we're trying to find out here is if you have minimum pressure for the compressor to engage.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can tell you that you are definitely low with one quick test, T

Response From ericwalker

OK, so, hooked up ac gauges - 105L, 100H with vehicle running for 30 minutes, turned ac on high, no change and compressor did not engage.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, so you have sufficient pressure for the compressor to engage initially. That means your issue is electrical and you are going to have to follow a wiring diagram to fine the cause.




Response From ericwalker

Hello, thanks, I will work thru these.

Could I do a continuity test on the compressor itself to rule this out immediately? I know there can be issues anywhere in the line:
Relays
Fuses
Connections
Leaks
Heater/Evap core

If I have to evacuate the system, do you recommend re-charging with an added dye?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You have enough pressure as HT said to trigger compressor upon request. That doesn't tell you more yet just that there's some refrigerant in the system and should kick on even if instantly kicked back off.


Check with LED test light if plug to clutch coil has power. If so BE CAREFUL but tap on head of clutch easy with like a small rubber hammer or wood as it might engage. Beware if it does where you tap is going to spin at engine speed.


All caution or don't do that. Try just key to run, engine off and do that again if any chance tapping it would make item a projectile. See if it snaps to.


If so measure clutch air gap. Post what you find,


T

Response From ericwalker Top Rated Answer

Of course, after testing everything but the mini fuse, I check that and it was blown..

Rundown:

Relay - good
Pressure switch - got continuity
Pressure switch plug - got voltage
Compressor/Clutch - got continuity
Compressor/Clutch plug - no Voltage

The 10amp mini fuse, which also operates the running lights (which work with a new fuse) ends up blowing when I turn the ac switch in the truck on, therefore the running lights go out as well.

Response From Discretesignals

You need to find the short in this part of the circuit then. Inspect the wiring harness really good. Look for any wiring or parts of the harness that are rubbing on brackets or metal parts. You can also unplug the compressor and see if the fuse blows to see if you have a field coil shorted out. A shorted diode is another possibility.


Response From ericwalker

Please help with schematic, not very good with them. I used youtube to find other tests. Where is this part of the system? Between the on/off switch and fuse?, between the fuse and relay, or between the pressure switch and compressor, or elsewhere?

Response From Hammer Time

You can see from the diagram that power from that fuse goes to the relay as clutch supply power. The relay completes the connection to the clutch coil so either the compressor clutch is shorted, the relay is shorted or the wiring in between is shorted. The clutch is the most likely suspect so just unplug it and see if the fuse still blows when you turn the system on.

Response From ericwalker

Surprise, the fuse blew with the compressor unplugged. Could it be the on/off switch on the dashboard?

Response From Discretesignals

No. The short is in the wiring between the relay and the connector that plugs into the compressor. It could also be that diode could have shorted. You need to inspect the wiring. Inspect those wiring harnesses. Look for anything that doesn't look right.

I haven't seen a relay short out when energized, but anything is possible. You could swap another relay in the box to see if it does the same thing.

Response From ericwalker

Where is the diode located?

Will check the whole harness for breaks..

Response From Discretesignals

Not exactly sure where the diode is at, but it is probably taped up inside the harness at the compressor plug.

Dude, you are jumping all over the place. Maybe you should consider having a professional check this thing out that understands how to read electrical schematics and has experience with troubleshooting ac systems.

Response From ericwalker

Taking truck to shop, will let you know results.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If disconnecting clutch doesn't blow the fuse one more check is ohms at those terminals. Not below 2 or above 5 and want about 3.5 or so. You mentioned continuity but not just how tested or whether plug end or coil end?


T

Response From ericwalker

I got continuity from the compressor, but got no voltage from plug because fuse was blown when the dashboard switch way turned on however, I got volt at the plug at the pressure switch, and continuity from the pressure switch itself.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what you are doing at the switch. Your problem has already been isolated down to an area that doesn't include the switch.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's blowing fuses so you are looking for a short. Pull relay and see if it quits blowing fuse. Then you know the short is AFTER that and keep closing in on it to the item or area.


You must own a fuse company by now. Hit a pic your own junkyard and ask if you can fill a can full of assorted fuses that they don't save anyway.


What where are you checking continuity? Just because a wire reads good thru from one end to the other but no voltage is fine but what and where? I know, it a maze of wire hidden in looms. Item locations are not well listed.


At some point I suggest you just send this out for a diagnosis and decide from that to continue on your own or get it done with a place/person with more equipment and just another set of eyes. Who knows, it could be so simple and you are just missing it or more involved but need to know either way,


T

Response From ericwalker

Checked the wiring and swapped out the relay...no change. Any other thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time

If you unplug the compressor and it stops blowing the fuse........ you're done .......... Replace the compressor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Roll dice if so. $525 whole new or $135 complete coil and clutch assembly.........Do the test first of course!



T

Response From Hammer Time

A new compressor with clutch for that truck can be bought for under $200 in some cases and commonly below $250.

Response From Discretesignals

Just don't get any ideas...lol


Response From Hammer Time

That's a great idea. I have a bunch of squirrels in the back yard I can train to power it.

Response From Discretesignals

One test you can do to get some direction is to go into the relay box and put your finger on the AC relay. Have someone turn the AC on and off with the engine running. You can also remove the relay and touch it on and off in the relay cavity and feel it click on and off if you don't have a helper.

You should feel the relay clicking. The clicking will tell you if the PCM is getting an ac request from the control panel and if the pressure switches are good. That would eliminate half the system.

If the relay doesn't click, that means you have to look at PCM's AC system inputs and the PCM's relay control output circuit, make sure the relay itself is good, and make sure you have the powers on terminals 1 and 3 in the relay cavity with the key on.

If the relay does click, that means you need to find out if power is getting to the ac clutch.

Either way you go, it will lead you to the problem. I just find using the relay as my starting point because it is easily accessible and checks are easily made to determine which half of the system to go to next.

Serp belt not spinning with engine on

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From rtognazz on Serp belt not spinning with engine on

On my 05 mini cooper S, I have a issue where my drive belt does not turn with the air conditioning on, even though the engine is running and the crank shaft is spinning. I replaced the belt and it didn't help. I also hear a bunch of rattling down by the crank shaft. When I remove the belt, all pulleys spin freely and so does the air compressor. Any thoughts?

Response From zmame

Good chance your A/C compressor is seized.. unplug the magneting clutch or leave AC off and get it to a shop for proper diag. AC might also come on if defrost is selected so I would recommend unplugging the A/C clutch.

Response From rtognazz Top Rated Answer

AC clutch turns freely. The thing is running pretty rough as well.

Response From zmame

Thats the point A/C cluth will move freely unless engaged.. is there engine light on?.. sounds like your in way over your head to attempt to fix it your self anyways.. I would get it towed and checked out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

rtognazz : Understand that compressor is two things. Just a stupid pulley and when engaged that pulley is static and compressor working, likely blown and working too hard.

As "Z" said, unplug the compressor. No A/C but not going to break the belt or get worse as I see what's happening here,

T

Distributor / misfire/hesitation issues

Showing 2 out of 29 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From robster on Distributor / misfire/hesitation issues




Year of vehicle
Make of vehicle (Ford/ Chevrolet)
Model of vehicle ( Taurus/ Cavalier)
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7)
Mileage/Kilometers

1977
Leyland Mini Cooper
Classic Mini
1100 cc
4,610 miles on the odo

Hello to the Administrators, moderators and all the members, im very honored to be a member of this Forum.

I bought a 1977 Classic Mini, it has a 110cc engine, it rans fine when i bought it, i rode it for 2 weeks then problems started.
Here's my Dilema: --in sequence of events

1) one morning i was driving my Mini, and suddenly i accidentaly hit the throttle abruptly on the first gear
2) then the car still ran for a bout 1/4 mile then it started to hesitate then died.
3) then i re-start ,and it started right up.
4) i still was able to drive the car for about 20 feet then it hesitated and died again
5) i open the hood and investigate the engine.
6) after some thorough investigation i noticed that one of the spark plug has intermettent spark
7) the engine always starts right,revs fine but after a minute of rev the engine starts to hesitate(ts the time when the plug stops sparking)
8) it's always the no.1 spark plug that shows intermettent spark (it's the right most chamber)
9) i tested the integrity of the spark plug wire,i used ohm meter and it turn out that the wire works good/ i even switched wires but still there's an intermettent on that particular distributor port (which is the n0.1)
10)i investigated the distributor cap element, seems ok, i even sand paper the element but still intermettent spark on the no.1 occurs
11)Coil seems to be working ok
12)i replaced the spark plug with new one, and still intermittent spark occurs

please Help.....thank you




Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Most regulars are US based so near impossible for some designs even that could be universal. Need to know if this has a distributor with points or some kind of electronic or CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) or plain point with a condenser?


For now if a distributor with points see if you can find the point gap it's at now and turn engine so they are at their widest gap. Now look at that gap and push on shaft towards the points and see how much more it might move to open them which would be the same for any shaft driven distributor that some will get too much play side to side - total guess for now.


A dwell tach could be real handy and a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter) and an in line spark tester but can do some checks without the dwell tach if points and plain feeler gauges.


If damp suddenly where you are this will aggravate anything weak in the secondaries (high voltage items) that might not if quite dry. A place to begin for now is about it,


T

Response From robster

yes, its an older engine , distributor has the points .
i did use the spark tester , it looks like a pen with little light bulbs on it, touch the tip to the spark plug wire while engine is running and it will lit up if there are electricity passing thru it... apparently that one particular wire (no.1) gives a spark at first then diminish after few minutes of idling.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Yes - I think I'm familiar with that type of tester that you do NOT take the wire off the plug and it still shows an amber light part way up the "pen" type tester. Those are marginal at best but if it continues to work on others and not #1 that's informative.


Then anything to do with #1 is questionable from inside distributor cap, wire itself most likely. If this engine allows swap that wire with one known to work and see if the problem follows along to another cylinder. If so could run much worse too as #1 spark plug could be fouled up pretty bad now too and only looking at them for even condition or tossing all (not yet IMO) would help but would rather nail it down as to why it's picking on spark to just that one first.


Should not be points yet but could be in cap, a flaw or unseen crack that can almost look like just a pencil has been used to draw a line showing or a white burnt area.


If this engine is good with good compression and other signs all good and you can prove lack of adequate spark to just #1 then do all that stuff new.


Another test is just spray/mist the cap and wires with water while idling while coolish and watch for arcing out of the part or wires. Good stuff should care. Don't soak it, just a mist about like you were cleaning a window in fact glass cleaner works for that test,


T

Response From robster Top Rated Answer

thanks Tom,

i switched the wires and still the #1 didnt work even with different wire,/ the spark plug is new/ i switched the spark plug too and still #1 gives intermettent spark.
until engine dies.

Points to consider: it all started when i abruptly stepped on the gas then suddenly the engine showed hesitation, NOW, is it safe to say that it might have moved the entire distributor stem(with the gear that goes inside the motor) which rendered the timing off?, the sudden step on the gas with the clutch engaged must have made the gear pushed the ignition thing or distributor thing a little that made the timing off....will that be possible?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Getting there slowly. OK - it seems to be surely picking on #1 as a misfire. How sure it's spark only is going to take more testing. Interesting that one event you mentioned seemed to cause this.


Just maybe engine moved too far on mounts (could be weak or bad too) such that distributor bumped something it really shouldn't be able to and did get a crack or flaw in it? Another maybe is this isn't spark at all but rather a vacuum leak that picks on that cylinder making it too lean or again with a compression problem and don't why that would happen because of just starting off too quickly on one like that but would have to check why just that cylinder and may just be coincidental to the abrubt "stepping on gas" as you put it?


T

Response From robster

just to verify: i mentioned about that pen like spark tester, and you said you are kind of familiar with it, my question is, when that pen gives out spark does it mean that:
1) that an electric current is passing through the wire?
2) that there is a spark on the spark plug itself?
IF the spark plug gets bad will i still be getting a light on the pen? ( the current still passes the wire right?)

point i am after: i just want to determine if the plug gets fouled, the pen stops lighting up,then the origin of the problem is from combustion chamber (i need to determine WHAT causes the fouling of plug.

IF the light on the pen stops,then the spark plug stops igniting it means the origin of the problem is in the distributor department.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Near sure I know the device you are using. Better is an in line spark tester that requires installing it in between plug wire and plug for example and lights well plus can widen gap to see how far it can jump but seems you know you have a dead cylinder and misfire due to lack of spark which for now points to the distributor as you've switched wires and plug - right? Problem didn't follow.


If individual fuel delivery for each cylinder you have to tell me and see if that is falling out and again being fooled on the spark somehow?


Plug would foul with very weak or no spark with fuel still being delivered so my guess is still a spark issue or compression issue yet to check that. A cylinder will NOT fire at all or well if too low. Testing can show pretty well why as well as comparing that spark plug to one with no issues. Oil wet, fuel wet, carboned up black, shorted, cracked, showing too hot and so on up to totally wrong gap or plug type forcing the spark to seek ground elsewhere as it has no brains just want to find ground the easiest way.


Hey - can't always be here in a timely manner but try. If you need and might hands on help which does cost might target this faster for you than a web sight Q&A type thing plus you get added equipment and hope to have some serious experience to nail it down fast for you as a big deal or not and I just can't say just yet,


T

Response From robster

here's how i did the test

http://videobam.com/kFKlJ

Response From Discretesignals

You sure that distributor cap is good?

Response From robster

hmmm wait a minute, can i possibly rotate the distributor cap to see if that particular port#1 is indeed bad??
i will also rorate the wires right??

Response From Discretesignals

I don't think you can rotate the cap on that one because it is keyed to the distributor. If you get the timing too far off, the engine won't run or backfire and blow the carburator off...LOL

Probably cheaper and easier to replace the cap. If the cap is black, seeing carbon tracking is even harder. You should also inspect the lobes on the distributor shaft that the points ride on. Could have a worn off lobe...never know.

Response From robster

im at the garage right now.. here the distributor that i have



Response From Discretesignals

Can't tell if your cap is tracked in your picture.

Checking lobes should be easy. With the ignition off rotate the engine by hand while watching the contacts on the points as they open. They should open four times, with the same length gap per opening, after rotating the crank two revolutions.

Response From robster

how do i rotate the engine?? should i rotatethe fan by hand?

Response From Discretesignals

Not sure if you can rotate it by the fan. There should be a large bolt in the middle of the crankshaft pulley that you can put a socket and ratchet onto. Just make sure the ignition is off. You could also remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft. That engine looks really simple to work on. Wish I was working on something like that at our shop instead of the modern computerized nightmares.

Response From Discretesignals

Oh...make sure you rotate the crankshaft clockwise only.

Response From robster

thanks ill do that.

and i noticed that the coil is very hot,, what does it mean??

Response From Discretesignals

If you have the ignition on too long with the points closed, the coil is going to be charging or turned on. The coil doesn't fire until it is turned off after it has charged. They call it saturation. The coils of wires on the primary side of the coil tend to get hot. The oil in the coil is supposed to keep things cool, but they still do get warm. It could also get hot from being bolted to the side of the engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Back for a bit. Thanks HT and DS for pics and descriptions. Robster - electricity is seeking ground and doesn't care which route just the easiest. Things can look good to the eye and totally not be. DS showed a cap with clear markings, some aren't so clear and water as mentioned might bring out just where it's messed up.


Back I mentioned the wobble of the distributor shaft is what I meant hoping you could see it by hand or dwell meters show it. If somehow the spark inside cap has a larger jump to #1 it may pick the prior or next terminal or anywhere easier and you don't see that but can test for loose distributor as said back several posts.


Coil getting hot (saturation as DS said) suggests that spark is really struggling to find ground. Coil tower itself can have the flaw also and if distributor is off just might choose one cylinder to struggle with and show at coil tower or wire. Everything to do with high voltage items is suspect. We call those secondary items/parts, coil, coil wire, cap, rotor plug wires porcelain to spark plugs and the metal of the spark plug. A fouled plug might take the ground nicely but not fire or spark.


New parts or not can mess up or worse wrong types like all plugs not correct so brings out the weakest link. Better test equipment would help but strong clues can be had.


Keep at it. As said I can't be here all that much or fast especially for a couple days here so listen to the others or let a shop and tech with much more equipment and experience isolate the problem for you. The longer an engine misfires for any reason the more complex it will get too so it's not just saving some time and up front costs but costs down the road of things that didn't like it misfiring so long. Know when to get help or get more test equipment as or if available to you,


T

Response From robster

is this normal? does it have too much play ?
http://videobam.com/WUFMJ

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, that movement is normal. That's play in the 2 gears that mesh to drive it.
This may not be a spark problem at all. You probably want to monitor the fuel supply when this happens.

That spark test is not real accurate anyway. That cylinder may be losing spark or maybe it just has better insulation in the wire and the pen can't pick it up through the insulation.

Response From Discretesignals

HT has a point. That pen isn't going to tell you the kV voltage. It could be running on 2 kV and lighting that pen up. You should use a spark tester, preferably an adjustable one to see how far the spark is able to jump which is an indicator of coil health.

Response From robster

hi guys, my ignition coil is overheating, really hot. whats causing it? should i get a new one? the car starts but not reving, it hesitates when reving

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Time to check that ignition points are set properly, parts are to specification. I'm not going to have specifications for tune up anything for this but could get close with another British Leland's car with a 4 cylinder with this type of ignition system is about it.


Without much for tools some tell-tale signs are metal transfer at the points themselves. If one small point has a peak and the other a hole matching not intended hole that some might have that's an indication that condenser isn't matched to system but don't think that makes a coil hot alone but could result in excessive resistance for that coil? Most would quit running totally till those problems were solved so have to think on it and what you could do,


T

Response From robster

the thing that confuses me is that why does the car start fine then after few minutes, especially when i rev it, the engine starts to hesitate and when i touch the pen onto the no.1 wire, the light becomes intermettent and eventually diminish while the other 3 wires has consistent light on the pen.
then after few minutes, the car start right up again then hesitate. and so on.
i tried moving the distributor shaft counter clockwise and clockwise just to see if its just out of timing but still same problem occurs.
im thinking the over heating of the coil has something to do with the problem, it might be the cause or the result from another fault.

Response From robster

yah, there were no corrossion and i even run a ohm tester on it to see if there is a good continuity.

Response From Discretesignals

You might have good ohm between the terminal inside the cap to the outside terminal, but if you have a crack or carbon track the spark is going to find that before going through the plug's gap.

Here's an example of a cap that may ohm good, but spark has found ground to the distributor housing through that carbon track.


Response From Hammer Time

Here's what Tom is talking about


Ac compressor rattle in old Audi

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From capman on Ac compressor rattle in old Audi

84 audi 4000S , 1.8 litre

Took great pains not long ago to totally rebuild AC system as old compressor suffered "black death". All new lines, evaporator, receiver/drier, condenser, expansion valve, and last but not least put on a rebuilt York Mini compressor but used my old clutch. Carefully put in exact amount of oil called for with the compressor and then had rebuilt system charged commercially.
Worked great for about 6 to 8 weeks. Then compressor started rattling, particularly noticeable a low rpms. Thought mounting bolts had loosened so I torqued those back up and it seems to help the first time I did so but it recurred shortly thereafter. I then started thinking belt was maybe loose so I carefully tightened it to spec (.39 inch deflection). Maybe a little better for a few days. Not long after that it started rattling as bad as ever and no amount of tightening of bolts or belt help. Clutch seems to engage smoothly and I see on deviation or wobble as it is turning when engaged.
Thoughts? Cheap rebuilt compressor (Factory Air brand) crapping out? I am pretty sure a refrigerant overcharge can cause rattle but I have put no more refrigerant in it since it was professionally filled.. Can a moderate undercharge do so also? Other ideas?? thanks

Response From capman Top Rated Answer

thanks. all makes sense. I will try your suggestions. By the way, I did disconnect the compressor clutch. Was afraid I might be headed for another meltdown if not careful.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Don't wait as you could end up right where you started again!

Yes - low charge COULD do this as it wouldn't carry much oil with the refrigerant as it should. Take pressures and temp observations at once and find the leak. Leaks can happen anytime without any good reason.

Also - Rebuilts and new alike can have failures. This should be under warranty as you did replace the filter/drier which they would call you on.

A maybe: Try spraying some WD-40 on the belt and see if that shuts it completely up for a short while. If so - the belt itself new or not might be the issue! No kidding on that and they can do that with just a certain load or for any reason. Rule that out. If it does respond to WD-40 and is perfect hit back for tricks or more ideas.


Still there? If pressures and performance are right then persue a replacement compressor under warranty before it throws junk thru system again which it will if left unattended. Unplug the clutch so it can't work to prevent further damage as you may be fine with just the compressor right now.

It's unlikely that the clutch is doing this unless the noise is also heard with the compressor OFF.

Side note: Any replacement compressor should be spun with new oil many times before it's charged and operational. There's a period of time if charged while running (most places will only be able to do that way) where it's not full along the way and running dry till you approach fully charged. Severe damage can happen with new/rebuilt units if that's not tended to. The charge carries the oil for continued lubrication.

Act fast - save aggrevation now,

T