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1993 chevy astro mini van idoled to high

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Question From mayfield on 1993 chevy astro mini van idoled to high

how do u idol down a 4.3 liter v 6 throttlebody motor on a 1993 chevy astro mini van?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Find the reason it's idling high. It's not adjustable.

mini or regulaur spray gun or both?

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Question From stevenn21 on mini or regulaur spray gun or both?

i am buying a compressor and spray gun to mod some pc and xbox cases should i get a mini gun or a regular one or both?

at first i will be painting xbox 360 cases im looking at this compressor:
BURISCH Air Compressor 3HP 90L Belt Drive Twin 14CFM Twin Cylinder

s this compressor overkill for spraying cases?


and i want a decent gun after reading a thread on this forum i have decided i want either the SHARPE FINEX FX1000 MINI HVLP or the Sata Jet Spray Gun 3000 HVLP digital

the sharpe is a mini and the sata isnt which would be the best option the mini or the regular?

thanks in advance guys

Response From nickwarner

Since you're just painting a few small things get a mini. Less waste of paint and finer control on small parts. If you are just planning to paint these few things it might work out cheaper to just have your local paint supply store mix up the color you want in an aerosal can. If you're careful and do your prep right you can make it come out alright.

I think the compressor is way overkill for what you are trying to do, but if you have other uses for it it may be a good thing to get.

Response From stevenn21 Top Rated Answer

thanks for the reply i dont have any other uses for the the compressor i dont even have a workshop just a 6ft shed to store it.
can you recommend a more appropriate compressor for this task?

im in the uk

this is a link to the information i have read regarding the specification of the compressor i should buy:

link deleted ............ not allowed

Response From nickwarner

I wouldn't even know what brands are sold over in the UK. What I noted in the specs of the one you mentioned was it was a 14CFM pump. Thats pretty heavy flow if thats not a metric measurement. I prefer belt drive to direct drive, but they do cost a bit more upfront. I have found they last longer and they definately run a ton quieter. You aren't going to be spraying a large gun for a long time, so a big compressor isn't needed. Also, with just a small shed to work out of it would kill off a lot of usable space. I would look at something with maybe an 8 or ten gallon tank and belt drive. It should supply your air needs for this gun easily.

An important thing to not forget about is to mount a regulator, filter and moisture collector on the port coming out of the tank. Make sure you use the drain on the bottom of the tank before each time you paint to drain any condensed moisture. You would also want a small filter mounted at the inlet of your spray gun which can be found in packs at your paint supply store. You need to set the regulator to the pressure recommended by the maker of your gun, and you must make sure the air coming through the gun is clean and dry. I would keep a hose just for painting and cap it off when you aren't using it to keep dust out. It takes very little dust or moisture to wreck a paint job no matter how well prepped or sprayed. With painting plastic like xbox cases you will also want to make sure you spray it with some adhesion promoter first or the paint can fall right off later. Make sure the promoter is compatible with the paint and clearcoat you are using too. The salesman at the paint shop can make sure you are getting the right stuff. I once saw a guy work for a week doing the fine touches on a Camaro, got the color on right and then used the wrong clearcoat. Looked fine until about an hour later when it looked like a snake shedding its skin. He had to redo the whole thing and was not pleased.

Response From stevenn21

thanks for the info about keeping the air quality high and paint compatibility thats a great help i will be getting a belt driven one.
i will be using a mini hvlp spray gun.

i think the lowest tank size i will consider is 50l just in case i decide to use it for other things in the future.

but it looks like the ones sold on ebay are not much cheaper than the 90l ones.

the 6ft shed is only for storing the compressor i actually have a 4m x 5m heavy duty marquee to spray in its got a 9ft american pool table in it which i will cover prior to painting.

Response From nickwarner

Look around farther than just Ebay for compressors. You have all sorts of hardware and home improvement centers that carry them, tool stores, etc. Might even score a nice used one in the classifieds. I think you guys have craigslist listings around you too. I've bought some decent used equipment from people on that before. Just have to make sure you test it first so you don't get burned. Knowing what it costs new helps to make sure you don't pay near or over retail cost on something used. If you look at a used one, undo the tank drain and look at what comes out. If its just a bit of water no big deal, thats normal as the humidity in the air will condense in the tank. But if you see oil thats a sign the compressor is wearing out and bypassing its own lube. You definately don't want that.

troubleshooting Chrysler mini van 2003

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Question From Carr on troubleshooting Chrysler mini van 2003

2003 Chrysler mini van. 3.3 ltr 133600 mi
while driving, engine light came on battery light came on, temperature gauge went off, shifting became sluggish, idle speed went up. It still ran. I turned it off and restarted it. at first engine light only was onand the temperature gauge was working.within 30 seconds temperature gauge went off and the battery light came back on

Response From Carr

Can a PCM be replaced by anyone or is it too technical for the average guy?

Response From Discretesignals

Physically replacing it isn't really hard. Programming it is something that most DIY can't do. You would have to find someone local to program it.

Response From Carr

Ok, i took to mechanic. He replaced two sensors and then the alternator. 750 dollars later still not fixed. So I got a PCM from computer exchange place. Programmed to my vehicle. Followed instructions and installed it. Ran a little rough at first then smoothed out. Drove fine all day. Went to work next day and it happened again. Exactly like before when problem first happened. Any thoughts?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh. Right away when picked up at the mechanic's and did the same thing why didn't you bring it up right then and there before leaving?


Clearly problem not fixed and has run poorly enough for new things to be the issue. IDK what to suggest except get codes again now as if running poorly there are and if not a problem not communicating with the vehicle,


T

Response From Carr

Lol. When picked up at mechanics, I had spent 750 and he still had no clue. He guessed computer which most would have tried at the beginning but quoted me another 750 to fix that. No thank you. I did computer myself

Response From Carr

So I got the codes again. Four this time. 0106, 0118, 1478, and a new one: 1496. I am guessing that the wiring harness has a short, or that five volt reference thing is off. I don't know how to check it or fix it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Poor communication so do think wires and vacuum issues to bad grounds? IDK from here. It worked for a while so on comes the guessing that something in that area just being bumped has the problem.


From some older threads not witnessed was that battery placement was or could be a spot under it with assorted items that could be harmed by location or possible acids from battery? A place to look.


Dang - lotta cooks in this kitchen and no chef seems to be an issue as well,


T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If you have a P1478 code popping up, it appears you'll need to replace the PCM. You should definitely make sure the PCM has good powers and grounds and that your 5 volt reference isn't being pulled down before replacing the PCM though. Just to be on the safe side.

I guess no one verified 5 volt ref when the problem was happening??

Yes, you should really focus on the 5 volt reference circuit. You might need a DSO to monitor the 5 volt reference to see if it drops out when the problem occurs. Might be able to catch it with a volt meter if the 5 volt ref is down long enough for you to start unplugging sensors one at a time to see if it comes back up. Your going to need a wiring schematic and connector pin out. The fun part is going to be finding the problem with the circuit because many sensors uses that 5 volt reference.

While your monitoring the 5 volt ref, wiggle wiring harness around to see if you can duplicate the problem. Hopefully your replacement PCM doesn't have the same issue as the old one.

Even though this video is of a Caddy with a shorted 5 volt ref, the procedure is the same. :

Response From Carr

So I sent in both computers to have them checked. Turns out neither one was bad. It's not the computer. So much for that idea. Lol. Now I'm guessing it's a short. So where would the short be, and how to find it? That's the question. I am still thinking that the battery light coming on and the temp gauge becoming inoperable is a clue. Wish I personally knew a mechanic worth his salt

Response From Carr

So I just drove it to get gas. Ran fine. Temp gauge worked fine too. Shifted normal. Idle speed correct. Turned it off. Got gas. Turned back on and temp gauge quit, idle increased, shift became sluggish again. Lol. It definitely has something weird going on with that gauge. Gauge working van working, gauge not working van has problems.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did NOT reread whole now old and long thread but when you have an intermittent much of anything and if when checked all is fine you are in trouble.


Problem must show itself while happening if not something in memory of something which may be lost when checked. Now if you have the most info, tools, equipment and know how and everything works fine when checked what would you do?


I did see that a whole cluster was a common issue was a clue and other than parts tossing at some point you need to or find someone to actually chase wiring one end to the other all over.


Just general on electric snags is that grounds that make whole metal of body grounded lose or break straps here or there and can be the problem for intermittent electrical or any connection of a harness for that matter. This isn't fun work and can use a lot of luck sometimes to know you've actually found and fixed something of the sort,


T

Response From Carr

So I have fixed my problem. No it was nothing that any code showed. It was a short in the wiring harness. The codes made the mechanic I took it to change things that were fine. That is what I was afraid of in the first place. Today's mechanics are typically code driven. Find the code then change out a part. I solved the problem through research. I found others with the same problem who told me where they found their short. Anyway, there is part of the harness that is close to exhaust pipe. It's located behind the power steering reservoir. Turns out that it is common for the wires to melt there. Sure enough. Fixed the insulation which fixed the problem. Hopefully this can help others fix their problems.

Response From Hammer Time

Today's mechanics are typically code driven. Find the code then change out a part.

No, that's not the way it works. The computer has a self monitoring system and the codes alert the mechanic when the computer sees a malfunction. The codes do not tell anyone to change any parts. They describe a specific situation that the tech has to then troubleshoot to find the cause. A car can have a problem that doesn't set a code either so your vehicle may have had multiple issues so today's mechanic do not change parts unnecessarily. They troubleshoot known issues.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for posting the source of the problem and the fix. Locked for archives for others to view OR you may request it re-opened by any moderator, T

Response From Carr

Ok. I understand what you all are saying. I guess my main complaint was that I listed a list of problems that all occurred suddenly. It didn't seem like anyone even looked at the symptoms listed. Oh well, water under the bridge. I got the readout from O'Reilly auto. Codes are P0118 and P1478 and P0106. Also, the PCM was changed 30,000 miles ago. Just for your info. Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

The P0118 addresses your temp gauge problem and is likely causing some serious fuel mixture problems also. There is an issue with the temp sensor. Look at the wiring and plugs before changing the sensor.

The P1478 is a problem with the battery temp sensor which is why your battery light is on.

The P0106 is an issue with the MAP sensor. Again, look at the wiring and connectors and the vacuum supply.


See how much help those codes were. They are all likely unrelated too although a damaged wiring harness could effect all 3.

Response From Discretesignals

If you have a P1478 code popping up, it appears you'll need to replace the PCM. You should definitely make sure the PCM has good powers and grounds and that your 5 volt reference isn't being pulled down before replacing the PCM though. Just to be on the safe side.

The PCM incorporates a Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) on its circuit board.

The PCM uses the temperature of the battery area to control the charge system voltage. This temperature, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate. The system voltage is higher at cold temperatures and is gradually reduced as temperature around the battery increases.

The ambient temperature sensor is used to control the battery voltage based upon ambient temperature (approximation of battery temperature). The PCM maintains the optimal output of the generator by monitoring battery voltage and controlling it to a range of 13.5 - 14.7 volts based on battery temperature.

The battery temperature sensor is also used for OBD II diagnostics. Certain faults and OBD II monitors are either enabled or disabled depending upon the battery temperature sensor input (example: disable purge and EGR, enable LDP). Most OBD II monitors are disabled below 20 °F.

Response From Carr

Not ticked off. I know to get it read. Was hopeful somebody might have a clue before a read out. But hey, who am I to get in the way of everyone's sarcastic wit. Once I have the reading done, well let's see, I know, I can just ask the mechanic who did the read out. Hmmm. Wonder why this site is even up and running? Gee what would we do without computers to tell us what's wrong? Lol. It's funny, cause my brother could at least offer a diagnosis based on vehicles he's had before. That would be sharing experience, but oh well, thanks for the tips. .. get a read out. ..

Response From GC

Your thread title refers to troubleshooting. Taking WAGs is not troubleshooting. Cant even offer a suggestion without some data. Once you get codes read, that MIGHT offer a starting point for diagnosis. Anyone who offers you a guess does not value your time or money. You can have similar symptoms caused by a large number of different issues (refer to DSs guess), thats why testing is required to narrow it down. Parts stores are real good at guessing, good techs are not.

Response From kev2

CARR if you are still following here -
Thiis is the misconception we as technicians face daily - the misunderstanding that a DTC is the corrective action - the 'code' will tell us what to change. That ]is not the case, NO code says change a part- the people at part stores that do the FREE service say buy this part.

If the vehicle overheats, sets a code* for temp sensor high - flawed part store laymen logic-code says temp sensor SO the sensor needs replaced.
It is just the messenger- example- the technician knows to look for the leaking hose


* p011x, P111x etc

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry. It's just that 99.9% of vehicles can't tell you more than a trouble code has been set. Takes reading what it sees and interpreting that info to continue on for the fix.


It monitors so much to do with how the engine runs, emissions, transmission and shifting and another 100 things not at the tip of my tongue. Owner's manuals that NOBODY EVER READS would tell you just what to do if that light is lit.


Codes at some parts outlets can be read for free - chains like Autozone and many others but write #s down not just what it might suggest the exact fix is.


If the vehicle isn't running perfectly it's possible to cause damage to wait. I'm not thrilled with putting too high of techno stuff in a moving machine exposed to the elements that controls the whole show much either as they get older that can be the problem but when it all works right it gives the most accurate adjustments for the temps and loads on a vehicle, the least pollution and best fuel economy too.


This could be as silly as a missing or loose gas cap or who knows till codes are read and the fix determined with that info,


T

Response From Discretesignals

I'd like to invite someone to our shop that believes a scan tool or code reader tells you what exactly is wrong and which part needs replacing. If I popped the datastream up for the BCM or MIC on that thing and told the visitor to tell me what is going on, they would shit their pants.

Response From Hammer Time

Just give them a factory flow chart for a code, any code.

Response From Discretesignals

Listen friend, cars don't talk to people and say, "Ouch my muffler has a boo boo." Scanners and scan tools are not magical devices that tell you what to replace. Being a modern day technician is a cross between a detective, network technician, and electronics engineer. Cars are no where near as easy to diagnose as back in the old days with points and a carbs.

We don't guess because when you guess 80% of the time you'll be wrong. We can't afford to be wrong when we are responsible for repairing other people's vehicles for a living. Heck, the wrong diagnosis could get someone killed in extreme cases.

If your here to troll the forum, your not going to be here very long. If your here looking for good advice and pointers on which direction to go to solve your problem, this is a great place.

Response From Hammer Time

This is one of those guys that thinks that magic little box that you plug into the car tells you exactly how to fix everything. Don't need a mechanic if you got one of the magic boxes.

Response From Hammer Time

Probably a bad dash cluster. they have a lot of problems.

Response From kev2

scan for codes EVEN if the CEL now is off

Response From Carr

First of all. Check engine light is on and stayed on, second, anyone can say scan codes. I was looking for an experienced mechanic who might have an idea what would cause the symptoms. Wow

Response From kev2

Checking for codes is the first step in troubleshooting.
GUESSING is NOT the way professionals approach an issue- that would be the crystal ball, psychic type.
I will add the collective experience is likely 25years PLUS per site contributor.

So you are unsure why/how the Dash cluster could cause rough shifting and high idle?

In laymans terms the PCM (computer) is seeing an issue and acting accordingly.
So how do we determine WHAT the PCM is seeing/reacting to ?
THAT would be getting the DTC's -
Need ideas on doing that?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote"First of all. Check engine light is on and stayed on, second, anyone can say scan codes. I was looking for an experienced mechanic who might have an idea what would cause the symptoms. Wow "


Gee - you sound ticked off that the vehicle is warning you to CHECK CODES and upset about it. 100s of areas possible and reading them narrows it down so that is the professional response to you inquiry or just give up and send you down the road,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Hell, I take a guess. Faulty BCM, faulty MIC, wiring problem, terminal tension issue, faulty ignition switch, loose fuse, faulty power distribution box, poor grounds, EMI, excessive alternator AC ripple, communication bus problem .... Take your pick and let us know what you figure out.

Response From Carr

Dash cluster? How could that cause rough shifting and high idle?

Response From Discretesignals

I agree with KEV

94 chevy lumina apv mini van

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Question From fordnut on 94 chevy lumina apv mini van

94 chevy lumina mini van 3.8 liter automatic w air vehicle doesnt down shift when you step on it.now it seems to b shifting thru all 4 gears before i reach 25 or 30 mph.this quick shift just started is there an adjustment.?possibly a detent cable?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Do you have a check engine light coming on at all?

Response From fordnut

check engine light is on and i get nothing on the code scanner,

Response From Hammer Time

Then you probably need a different scanner. Either something is there or there is a problem with the computer itself.