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We stock Clutch parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Sable.

Sachs
1986 Mercury Capri Clutch Kit Sachs - Standard

P311-4EAF640    W0133-1604179  New

Qty:
$195.30
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1986 - Mercury Capri 5.0
Rhino Pac
1980 Mercury Monarch Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 4.1L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-3C7B391    07-016  New

Qty:
$89.10
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 10'' Ford clutch kit
  • Diaphragm Option; Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 10.000 X 1.063 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Mercury Monarch L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 -
Rhino Pac
1978 Mercury Zephyr Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-3C7B391    07-016  New

Qty:
$89.10
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 10'' Ford clutch kit
  • Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 10.000 X 1.063 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1978 - Mercury Zephyr V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Rhino Pac
1986 Mercury Capri Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.0L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-40CF38D    07-042  New

Qty:
$104.06
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 10-1/2'' Ford, Mercury clutch kit
  • Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 10.500 X 1.063 X 10t
    • Pressure Plate Size: 10.5
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Mercury Capri V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Rhino Pac
1996 Mercury Tracer Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 1.9L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-5BE9FED    07-075  New

Qty:
$104.66
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 7-7/8'' Ford, Mercury clutch kit
  • Flywheel Spec: FLAT
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 7.875 X .875 X 20t
    • Pressure Plate Size: 7.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Mercury Tracer SOHC L 4 Cyl 1.9L 116 -
Rhino Pac
1999 Mercury Tracer Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.0L Rhino Pac - OE PLUS

P311-4D360A3    07-138  New

Qty:
$107.21
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 8-7/8'' Ford, Mercury clutch kit
  • Flywheel Spec: -0.295
  • OE PLUS
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Diaphragm Style
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 8.875 X .938 X 22t
    • Pressure Plate Size: 8.875
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Mercury Tracer L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989
Sachs
1974 Mercury Montego Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 4.1L Sachs

P311-574EAB9    K0030-04  New

Qty:
$119.01
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; 10" Clutch; O.D : 10 ;I.D : 1 1/16 ;TEETH : 10T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Mercury Montego L 6 Cyl 4.1L 250 4098
Sachs
1998 Mercury Tracer Clutch Kit 4 Cyl 2.0L Sachs

P311-0C7C4AE    K70311-01  New

Qty:
$161.92
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; O.D : 8 7/8 ;I.D : 15/16 ;TEETH : 22T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mercury Tracer L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989
Sachs
1973 Mercury Montego Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.0L Sachs

P311-574EAB9    K0030-04  New

Qty:
$119.01
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; O.D : 10 ;I.D : 1 1/16 ;TEETH : 10T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Block Engine CID CC
1973 - Mercury Montego 3 V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Sachs
1986 Mercury Capri Clutch Kit 8 Cyl 5.0L Sachs

P311-5CF65C0    K0048-01  New

Qty:
$120.55
Sachs Clutch Kit
  • Standard; Kit Only; O.D : 10 1/2 ;I.D : 1 1/16 ;TEETH : 10T
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Mercury Capri V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -

Latest Mercury Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

'99 Mercury Cougar - Engine RPMs Increase on Own

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From chas80 on '99 Mercury Cougar - Engine RPMs Increase on Own

1999 Mercury Cougar with 2.5l v-6 and manual trans, approx 125,000 miles. I have a problem with the engine increasing RPM when I disengage the clutch. As I accelerate from a stop and shift gears, each time I throw out the clutch the engine RPM climbs... starting from where it is when the clutch is thrown and usually to a high as 3800. I can sit there and watch the tach climb! The RPMs will hold there until I shift and re-engage the cutch, loading the engine. This problem also sometimes happens when I come to a stop and disengage the clutch, although if I keep the car in gear until almost stopped it will not occur (engine load seems to drag the RPMs down). There are no engine codes being logged. I checked the throttle cable and there is no hang-up (anyway, the RPM is climbing... not just holding). There is no problem at idle... car starts and idles fine at specified RPM. Any help is greatly appreciated.... I think the car is haunted. Thanks!

Response From helotech1

have same problem only when ambient temp is warm just wandering if you found anthing out

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I've seen idle speed motors stick but not out of control high as first mentioned!

T

Response From Double J

I know there was a recall for the accelerator cable..inner core wire of cable frays and breaks over time causing the vehicle to go into a high idle...
Just a thought..

Response From dmac0923

like mentioned by JIM look at your accel cable and your "TPS" sensor on the throttle body

02 cougar a/c compressor & clutch

Showing 5 out of 17 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From krich on 02 cougar a/c compressor & clutch

02 mercury cougar
2.5/6cyl

hello
i've detached the a/c compressor in order to replace the clutch which was bad.

i'm in the process of reattaching the compressor but the 2 lower bolts just will not go in. is there a special tool for this?

also, is there a special tool (i.e. press) to install the clutch?

the clutch assembly was removed with no problem. in the process of replacing with the new one, it seems it will be easier to install if the compressor is reattached but like i mentioned...the 2 lower bolts just will not go in.

what am i doing wrong? if you need more info/details/photos, please ask.

thanks in advance.
krich

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

There is a special tool used to put the clutch assy. back onto the compressor. It is very similar to the one used to put a power steering pump pulley back on. From what I've read here on the site, you may be able to rent one from Auto Zone or another large parts chain. As for the compressor mounting bolts, unsure what the problem may be. Just not lined up right? Pics would help greatly.

Response From way2old

Do you have the old clutch and coil off? If yes, you need to press the coil in place then install the clutch. As far as bolting the compressor back to the block, you just have to wiggle it a little until it slides on the pins. Good luck.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Heating_or_AC_Issues_F8/02_cougar_a/c_compressor_%26_clutch_P38510/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=275;t=search_engine
I see coil is off in that pic and the issue with mounting bolts. Just wiggle around for those bolts as "way2old" said till you get them to grab but don't cross them up either.

How did the clutch come off? I don't know each and every clutch but have the set that always has what's needed to remove and install. The outer plate may have shims you have to pay attention to or gap won't be right. Add or subtract shims to achieve .020 or closer gap or if pressed to adjust do it with a biz card just till it won't fall out of gap. Was the coil even bad? I don't find many bad and just do bearing in the clutch which is more common......

T

Response From krich

bearing & coil were bad.
thanks for the adjustment tip. the outer plate is the clutch? (yes, i'm a girl)
i think that could be the problem but we're almost there.
krich

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: I can about see from here that there's almost no "gap" at the clutch which is why is squeels when A/C is OFF as it's just meant to be a free pulley then.

The fix: The center bolt seen below should remove no trouble and even without a puller that outer plate will remove. Don't mess it up prying too hard. Use whatever to give it an even pull and not bend anything. Inside that there should have been small washers (shims) so hold outer plate away from the hub by the .020 which I mentioned. No problem if you don't have a gauge but if a regular business card type paper is sticky to get in that gap it's way too close! If you lost the washers you'll need to measure carefully as they aren't easy to just get those at a hardware store. Generally new they come with ONE. That ONE can be removed in the life of the clutch to reduce the gap before it's "worn beyond saving" it. That washer is inside the hole of the outer plate you removed or lost now. Hope you have it. Use a tiny magnet to get it out ---- it's inside the hole of the old hub and new one may or may not come with any - dunno as I don't buy new clutches ever but rather get them new on whole compressor's and save a basket full of the old good clutches just for this stuff.

I may be wrong - it's only a pic and not a measurement by a look. If you spin the outer plate now with engine off by that center nut you will see what is the outer part of the plate and what is the hub of the clutch. That's the gap area that needs to be adjusted. I can only guess (no charts, books on those - just look at them one by one) that it uses washers to adjust. Some are pressed on by the clutch tool to the specific gap and you leave it there but this looks like the type with spacer washers.

Again - .020 gap or don't waste time and use a biz card. Folded too tight, single thickness is about right. With belt off the pulley with the grooves should spin without touching that outer plate but be close. If way too far the magnetic force won't pull them in which is the more common problem or bearing alone messes up.

Note: Compressors and clutches have two modes - on and off. When compressing the bearing in the clutch is doing nothing and gap means nothing. The shaft of the compressor is the bearing action when engaged. When OFF - the thing is just a dumb pulley and needs to stay just that - just goes along for the ride and holds belt in place acting as just a pully with no regard whether A/C works or not and doesn't care.

Hope I'm not confusing the issue which is possible

Let me/us know and I/we will try harder to get this solved and over with......

T

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=280;

Response From krich

yes, that was the problem. once the washer (shim) was installed, it runs great!
thanks so much for everyone's help & suggestions.
i saved a lot of $$ doing it myself w/help. it took a while but it was worth it. couldn't have done it without y'all's help. i really appreciate it.
happy holidays to all.
krich

Response From way2old

Now you can be one of the regulars. These old men need a ladies touch. Closest we got is Tom's kitty. Glad you fixed it and stayed with the project.

Response From krich

maybe not regular but y'all are entertaining...
it's amazing what air in the tires does. normally, i'm on top of these things but it's a new car to me. with a new a/c clutch & air in the tires.....feels like an suv. not to mention the gas mileage. maybe i'll give her a bath too, mileage could increase more. haha

krich

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just remember Loren....


"The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese” – Unknown





That wasn't good enough for Kitty so SHE ate them all before breakfast!



It's always trouble if you mess with Kitty!



Tom

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Kitty? That's really reaching.

Response From krich

thanks for the quick response.
the pics are attached.

we rented a press from oreilly's for that purpose but nothing in that set was appropriate for this task so we returned it. we asked for further instructions or tools, of course they just work there. there was an a/c guy that happened to be there who said to use a 2x4 to press the clutch back into place which we've tried with no luck.
but the bolts are the strangest thing. they seem to be lined up just right & we've adjusted them a hair or two in all directions but can't seem to get it right. therefore, i've resorted to online expertise since it's sunday & no one is open.
thanks again
krich

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Great pics, btw. I agree with way2old. Make sure any other mounting bolts are left loose until you get these two started; May help? Good luck.

Response From krich

thanks folks. really appreciate the input. at least i know i'm not crazy.
hope your holidays are great!
krich

Response From way2old

Just for giggles, see if you can place all 4 bolts in compressor and then line it up by hand threading all 4 to start. Then you can pull it down evenly with tools.

Response From krich

well, i'm happy to report.....we finally got the darn thing bolted back!!! and....the clutch installed and....the keeper pin (what a booger!) almost like the bolts. it started up, we charged the freon, it works great.....as long as the a/c is on. we think the center/coil? may be too tight because if the a/c is not on it squeals & the clutch doesn't turn, starts smokin. so the pulley need to be pushed on more?

Response From krich

thanks for the tip & the luck, i think that's what it's gonna take. it sure is stubborn.
krich

96 Grand Marq AC compressor w/n kick in

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From fixorfab on 96 Grand Marq AC compressor w/n kick in

1996 Mercury, Grand Marquis, 5.0, 180000 miles. I checked relay and fuses I could find. They were o.k. but not getting elec to compressor clutch. I ran a hot wire to clutch and it does engage. Is there an in line fuse??? Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

What is the ambient pressure?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't think they made the 5.0 in 1996? Just how did you check the relay? You should be able to swap relays in this if exact same part # with another but be prepared to put them back where they were if the other item doesn't work.

Should be clearly marked underhood under a cover. Swap with fuel pump relay and if it wont start the relay is bad most likely. Check clutch air gap to be about .020 is real nice but can begin to quit over .030 but would respond to a tap on outer plate if otherwise things are ok,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I was trying to find out if we even have enough refrigerant to engage here.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

HT - whether typo or just individual jargon I would call that "static" pressure" which certainly does need to be about 45PSI or nothing is going to happen in a FORD - CCOT system. IDK?

T

Response From Hammer Time

Right, different word, same question. He still hasn't answered it yet though.

my 92 mercury grand marquis wont go forward

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From maynern on my 92 mercury grand marquis wont go forward

my 1992 grand marquis wont go forward

my car goes into reverse fine but it wont go into drive why is that

it has a 4.6 liter engine with 125,000 miles on it

Response From maynern

i finally put a trans in but now this trans jerks bad when it is in overdrive why is that please help anyone

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

You always want to make sure the fluid level is full & the fluid is clean looking but from what you are saying it really sounds like you have an internal problem. Possible bad forward clutch pack.....