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Rhino Pac
2000 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-09802D5    07-036  New

Qty:
$276.71
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-1/2'' Ford clutch kit
  • PREMIUM
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Self-adjusting Clutch
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.375 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -
Rhino Pac
2001 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-09802D5    07-036  New

Qty:
$276.71
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-1/2'' Ford clutch kit
  • To 3/01
  • PREMIUM
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Self-adjusting Clutch
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.375 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -
Rhino Pac
2000 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-09802D5    07-036  New

Qty:
$276.71
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-1/2'' Ford clutch kit
  • Created from row number: 9470
  • PREMIUM
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Self-adjusting Clutch
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.375 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -
Rhino Pac
2001 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L Rhino Pac - PREMIUM

P311-09802D5    07-036  New

Qty:
$276.71
Rhino Pac Clutch Kit
  • 9-1/2'' Ford clutch kit
  • Created from row number: 9471 To 3/01
  • PREMIUM
  • Product Attributes:
    • CLUTCH COVER TYPE: Self-adjusting Clutch
    • DISC SIZE (IN.): 9.375 X 1.125 X 10t
    • UPGRADE HP RATING: Na
Brand: Rhino Pac
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -
LuK
2002 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L LuK

P311-13CC3C4    07-201  New

K70549-01 , 1107201

Qty:
$212.74
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • LuK Global Number 624 3606 330
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-1/8"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Push Type Diaphragm
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
LuK
2001 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L LuK

P311-13CC3C4    07-201  New

K70549-01 , 1107201

Qty:
$212.74
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • From 03/01/2001 LuK Global Number 624 3606 330
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-1/8"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Push Type Diaphragm
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
LuK
2001 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L LuK

P311-58AF8C5    07-200  New

07-036 , K70299-01 , 1107200

Qty:
$235.61
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • To 02/28/2001 LuK Global Number 624 3605 330
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-1/8"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Push Type Diaphragm
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
LuK
2000 Lincoln LS Clutch Kit 6 Cyl 3.0L LuK

P311-58AF8C5    07-200  New

07-036 , K70299-01 , 1107200

Qty:
$235.61
LuK Clutch Kit
  • LuK OE Quality Replacement Clutch Set
  • LuK Global Number 624 3605 330
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clutch Disc Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Clutch Plate Facing Outer Diameter: 9-7/16"
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 1-1/8"
    • Pressure Plate Type: Push Type Diaphragm
  • LuK: The brand professionals trust! For over thirty years, automotive aftermarket technicians have staked their reputation – and their customers’ satisfaction – on LuK RepSet® clutch components. Each set contains everything you need to get the job done right: new clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing (where required), spline tool and lubricant. As an original-equipment supplier, LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applications. LuK offers the highest in-house manufactured content of any supplier in the industry.
Brand: LuK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968

Latest Lincoln Repair and Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2007 Lincoln mkx blows a/c fuses

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dmarbut on 2007 Lincoln mkx blows a/c fuses

A couple month ago my 2007 Lincoln. Mkx was making screeching noises and a/c went out.It blows the 10 amp fuse (under hood) for the a/c clutch
So I automatically assume the clutch is bad.I replaced whole a/c compressor with a used one that seemed to be in good shape.I pulled vacuum on system and attempted to put freon in but it kept blowing the same fuse! Can some one please help

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

And this is why AC repairs are not DIY jobs. The clutch wasn't your problem, high likely pressure was and since you never found or resolved the actual problem, you just made the whole thing worse. Using junkyard compressors is just a waste of money also.

You have no idea what caused the failure in the first place.
You have no idea how much oil is in the system.

AC repairs are for shops that specialize in this. Everyone thinks it's easy and everyone finds out the hard way that it is not.

1992 Lincoln Town Car overheating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From estevens on 1992 Lincoln Town Car overheating

My '92 Lincoln Town Car started running hot a few weeks ago. The coolant return tank was cracked so I replace it as well as the thermostat, but it is still overheating. At freeway speeds the temp is normal but in town driving sends the needle to the red. I'm no mechanic and I'm not sure I installed the thermostat correctly, the old one popped right out and I just set the new one in it's place. Aside from the flushing the system or water pump failure (god forbid) I'm not sure what else it could be. I don't see any leaks. Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Flushing the system will not fix anything. That will replace the coolant and help prevent a problem but you aren't going to move any blockages out. I would try replacing the fan clutch first. If that doesn't help, then you are likely looking at a new radiator.

AC ISSUES

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jzenoby57 on AC ISSUES

I HAVE A 2000 LINCOLN LS V-8, 130,000 MILES. I AM HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE AC, IT IS BLOWING HOT AIR EVEN AFTER I HAVE HAD R134 PUT IN TWICE. THE COMPRESSOR IS WORKING FINE AND CLUTCH KICKS ON AS WELL. I DON'T KNOW IF IT'S ELECTRICAL OR WHAT.

Response From Hammer Time

It's probably something that you're not going to figure out on your own either. Refrigeration is not a DIY type knowledge.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Feel the refrigerant lines. One should be warm and the other very cold with the ac running.

The LS has those dithering hot water control valves that liked to act up and stick open and burn you out of the car. The LS doesn't use blend air doors. The DATC modulates the valves near the radiator to control the heater.

Response From Hammer Time

It doesn't use a Blend door specifically but it does have a "Cold Air Bypass" door in addition to the dual solenoids for heater control..


COLD AIR BYPASS DOOR ACTUATOR
The cold air bypass door actuator is located on the evaporator core housing. During automatic operation the control module can position the door fully open so that some of the airflow will not pass through the heater core. This will provide for maximum cooling. The door is closed or partially closed during modes other than maximum cooling.

  • The cold air bypass door actuator positions the cold air bypass door on command from the DATC module.
  • Operation of the cold air bypass door actuator is the same as the air inlet door.

  • Response From Discretesignals

    ARTICLE NO.00-6-5
    DATE:March 20,2000
    SUBJECT:AIR CONDITIONING - POOR OR NO A/C COOLING ON PASSENGER OR DRIVER VENT - VEHICLES WITH DUAL AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL (DATC)

    LINCOLN: 2000 LS
    ISSUE
    Poor or no A/C cooling from the passenger or driver side vent on vehicles equipped with a Dual Automatic Temperature Control (DATC) system may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by debris trapped in the coolant valve and/or the DATC module unable to control the coolant valve.

    ACTION
    Flush and/or replace the coolant valve and/or replace the DATC module. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    2000 Lincoln LS

    Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
    Question From domfast2003 on 2000 Lincoln LS

    Okay, so i have a 2000 Lincoln LS V8 3.9L and the timing chains broke when i was starting it. Valve broke a whole in the piston so i bought a wrecked 2002 Lincoln LS V8 3.9L car and took the engine out of it and put in my car. Kept my transmission due to the fact i never had any issues with it. Got the engine running and it runs great. Problem is, It saying check transmission and instead of saying P for park, its saying E. When you take it of of park and put it in reverse it works fine. Reverse is normal. Put it in drive and try to take off and it feels sorta like a burned up clutch. Real hard to get going. Almost have to have the gas pedal to the floor. Once you get it going it wont shift. I have checked all the sensor plugs and i got everything hooked back up correctly. Didn't pinch the wiring harness or anything. Checked the fluid, Its full. So i ran a scanner on it. All it told me is pretty much that i dont have a transmission in the car... It isnt ready any of the sensors. Only thing i could thing of was the computer. So i changed out the computer. Still does it. Anyone with any ideas please please help me. This is my only car and i have already lost my job because i cant find anyone to give me a ride to work which is thirty miles away from home. Im struggling to keep up payments on the car due to the fact i have dumped about three grand into this car now. So any help please. Kyle

    Response From zmame

    well if you changed out the computer supprised it starts at all you need to program your PCM to all the other modules and PATS keys also need to be programmed.

    May be conflict issue from PCM>IC who knows. More then likely there is a harness that is disconnected or damaged. Still should work with the orig PCM hooked up if everything is ok.



    http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/1736/eyxen04u.gifd

    Response From speed Top Rated Answer

    thankyou for confimring my theory zmame.

    Response From speed

    my guess is that you need to have the ECU reprogrammed and "mated" to the transmission form the new engine or the ECU formn the old engine "mated" to the new engine. im not sure but i believe that has to be done on cars nowadays. also check the linkage to make usre its adjusted correctly.

    A/C for 98 Ford Escort

    Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
    Question From pneely on A/C for 98 Ford Escort

    Ok, so my a/c is full of stuff, the blower works, the compressor turns easily.....but still I have no air....so we are thinking relay? Where the heck IS the relay?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Are you saying compressor turns with your hands (engine off please!) but not by request for A/C? If it's engaging with A/C request it's NOT a relay. Locations are listed in owner's manual. Frequently a relay will work again (if that's the problem) by tapping on it.

    If no luck with that or a new one we will need lots more info like static pressure, temp, and if compressor is engaged but not cooling the high and low pressures.

    Your system holds 28oz of 134a from factory.

    Come back with more info and and pertinent history and we can help you,

    Response From pneely

    Are you saying compressor turns with your hands (engine off please!) but not by request for A/C?

    yes, that is exactly right.

    If it's engaging with A/C request it's NOT a relay.

    It is not engaging. It does not come on at all.

    Locations are listed in owner's manual.

    Cannot find the relay location in owners manual.

    Frequently a relay will work again (if that's the problem) by tapping on it.

    If I can ever find it....help?

    If no luck with that or a new one we will need lots more info like static pressure, temp, and if compressor is engaged but not cooling the high and low pressures.

    Your system holds 28oz of 134a from factory.

    It has been checked with a guage and is full.

    Come back with more info and and pertinent history and we can help you,
    Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest Boston - USA

    What else do you need to know?

    Thanks for you help.

    pneely

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Ok - let's see what we can do.

    First see if there's power to the low side out out on accumulator. It's just an on/offswitch and will shut down compressor when pressures drop too low for any reason - like cold weather. If you have a static pressure in system over 35 or so the switch will let power in one side and out the other to the compressor. You can put a paperclip in the connector and jump it if a two wire switch. Don't mess with it if it has three wires.

    If no power there the relay is suspect. It should be under the hood in some protective black box and be and inch square thing. I believe even in Escorts by 98 they are just push in boxes and should be with others for fuel pump and electronic engine control relays and may be marked inside of box which is which. They probably all have the same part #. These parts are cheap even from Ford and they should be nice enough to show you a screen with a diagram of its location. I think the last ones I bought were only 5 bucks or so and a spare never hurts to have with you. There is probably a regular fuse before power even gets to the relay. If you don't have the regular 12V test light with alligator clip and wire of the handle get one. They a wicked handy and cheap ones are at Wal-Mart for under 5 bucks. Always test the light each time you use it. Great for testing fuses without even removing them - if power on both sides that fuse is working.

    If power checks out a common problem is a "too" large gap in the compressor's clutch. You can test this with system on (should work with engine off and key in run with A/C on) or with engine on but be careful and tap the head of the clutch - if it clicks in that's your trouble and most are simple to fix. If so hit back and I'll explain how to fix that. Again careful with that test as if clutch engages it could throw your tapping device (wood or rubber best) at you or something!!

    Sorry for being slow today. My own car needs a water pump and worked on another all day. My pump is fairly hard to do so it will take up some time and I'm doing all the hoses and more at the same time.

    I'm with you! We'll get this fixed, Try to have a good 4th weekend, Tom


    Response From rustyEscort94

    Dear Tom, I was browsing Internet to see what's wrong with my A/C and got to this forum. I tried to tip the A/C compressor head and started working. So I guess I have
    two options here - to buy a small hammer for the car so I can engage the clutch
    whenever I need it, or try to fix the gap. I'm wondering how difficult is to do that -
    I found this manual for http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl817h.htm for Dodge.
    Does it look like that for Ford Escort as well? E.g. is it enough just to remove the
    clutch plate and add one or two shims to get it work again without removing
    snap rings and stuff like that (I see if I go past shims, it will require lots of special
    tools) ? Thanks for your help!

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Hi,

    You've hit on a thread that's almost 2 years old. By your user name you have a 94 Escort I take it and it's rusty! Welcome to New England and many places for that!

    Seems like the tap on the compressor worked which is a pretty clear sign that clutch gap is too wide. So YES -- bring a hammer along (wrong) -- and use rubber or wood to try that if you do.

    I don't have a clue what compressor this is but that's ok. Escorts were once made by Mazda I thought which is ok too. It probably uses shims and to lessen the gap you take one out. Some don't require a puller to get the outer plate off some might but I think not. So take it off (just that outer plate) and remove a shim. There could be more than one but just one should do. Don't lose them as they are near impossible to come by. Plate should just slide back on in position by key or splines which may only slide on in one spot so index it before removing it with a marker so you don't fuss with that.

    It should have a gap about the size of a folded business card but not so close that it rubs when disengaged.

    This does not involve messing with refrigerant and should be fairly easy but sometimes getting at it is the whole job.

    Hit back if you need more help and maybe start a new thread as now this is lost in the archives and others may not see it.

    Watch out for reverse threaded nuts and bolts on things that spin but I don't think this one is,

    T

    Response From rustyEscort94

    Thanks Tom, I'll try that and write here on the outcome! In fact, the Escort is not that rusty and still runs greate (made 40k miles during the last year),
    but the major problem is the old bolts - some brake when you try to loosen them, some - when tighten them, even with the torque wrench :)
    Anyway, thanks for helping guys like me :)

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    For rusty bolts and nuts put a product called PB (Power Blaster) on anything you think you may need to get at some day. Not for A/C but oxy/acet gets stuff off like exhaust and I think Mapp/Oxy would too. Check if you can get at the clutch thru the wheel well if access is trouble. Last ones were Tempo and Taurus and several 90s Lincolns that are a cake walk for this,

    T

    Response From rustyEscort94

    Everything worked just fine! The bolt came off easily after some WD-40, and I made a tool out of a piece of plywood to hold the clutch (just drilled couple holes in it). The major problem was that I initially didn't find any metal shims in the compressor's shuft as shown on most A/C pictures in the Internet. The only thing that was there was the one big shim made of felt. Tried to cut it in half but got no luck. Finally I have noticed that there are those 4 metal shims, but they are really tiny and they are inside of the clutch's plate shuft (not the compressor itself), and are virtually unnoticable (they have the same shiny appearance as the shuft itself). Then I just took one of them out and the A/C is back to life. That was really simple and ther was no need to align anything - just put it back and tighten the bolt.

    Thanks a lot for the help, that saved me quite a bit of money (really important for a student like myself) and gave an interesting car project!