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Latest Lincoln Town Car Repair and Brakes Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

94 lincoln towncar

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From baldeagle56 on 94 lincoln towncar

I have a 94 lincoln town car sometime hard to start but once it start and I put it in gear, car shut, I can like have feet on brake and gas pedal and put in gear and can drive for for awhile, but as soon as I stop at traffic light it cut off again.. change fuel filter, Idle air sensor still doing it,.......HELP ME. Disable veteran..Please..

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Idle air sensor

What is this?

Check engine light on?

Response From Hammer Time

It's quite obvious he's talking about an IAC.

Response From nickwarner

Where's Tom?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Get whatever codes it might show. 4.6 engine was pretty good. Some and not sure which years went to a plastic intake that was a problem but usually would leak coolant.

Other is the deep well long spark plug wires at the plugs would leak the spark out unseen but would run rough if so.

Some easy things to check are that there are no vacuum leaks and check a couple different ways if needed and that air intake parts are not split or leaking in wrong places.

Clean throttle body then on to IAC - clean first then replace if idle is too low but may run fine otherwise,

T

1992 Lincoln Town Car, NO HEAT

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From lookitsflanny on 1992 Lincoln Town Car, NO HEAT

My 1992 Lincoln Town car will only blow cold air while heat is on. This is what I've checked so far....Coolant level is good and both heater hoses are hot leading into and out of the firewall. There appears to be some sort of electronic valve just prior to going through the firewall, could this be my problem? It's a 1992 Town Car, 4.6 lt V-8 with 50,000 original miles, beautiful car even without heat. Thanks in advance for any leads you might be able to provide me with.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? Not common with coolant truly full??



That whoosey in the inlet heater hose line is just a fan delay and doesn't restrict flow. These should use a "blend door" in the distribution box to mix air for desired temp. The 5.0s prior to the 4.6 used to put a solid metal restrictor for flow in inlet hose near this to slow the water flow and it was like a plug with a 1/4" hole for water passage that could plug I suppose but would think you feel the temp drop drastically on return hose if that OR a plugged core. I'm not as familiar with the 1992 as changes were underway but you should have a slider temp selection that may be the issue. The actuator doors have been very dependable and I'm guessing they could be vacuum controlled for the blend door. Look for broken vacuum line underhood more likely than under dash unless recent work might have disturbed something.

You may be able to move the blend door by hand without a total dash diving expedition - take a look.......

T

Response From lookitsflanny

Thanks for the info. Living in the middle of nowhere I don't have the luxury of finding a dealership to tackle problems like these, you just try and figure things out on your own.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't think this is a monster problem. Any recent dash work - radio etc? Does the temp selector feel funny? Did this just happen out of no where or come on slowly, noise anything?

T

Response From lookitsflanny

One day it worked, the next it didn't. I had breaks put on yesterday, perhaps they unplugged something in a lame attempt to draw me back in, kidding of course. All the slides and the switch feel sound. I'm gonna step outside and take a look at that metal valve you spoke of in the prior post. I'll figure it out before it's all over. I have a Jack Nickolous Sign model in near showroom condition, a sight to behold.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Don't give up - it's probably something stupid. The "metal" thing is out of sight inside the inlet hose. You would have to replace the hose to even find it and cut it out. It's like a cork with a hole drilled thru it about half of a wine bottle cork size thing. I suppose you could pinch the hose and feel for the spot that won't squish - not likely that is the issue IMO.

More likely is some funky vacuum line unplugged or look for plastic the appears more like wire but is vacuum hose and would lead to rubber connections as a way to know it's vacuum line and not wire. Those do snap like uncooked pasta sometimes and can just splice in rubber hose for windshield washer size if you do find two ends not together!

You are welcome to come to the site below my sign off - another forum with sign up there and ONLY A/C techs. Funky little sole propritorship site but gets hit by the big guys in the MVAC trade.

Side note on the car: This is generation II Town Car and not known the the problem you have by me anyway as common. The A/C is strong in those but heat stinks IMO as they all moderate the output temperature so as not to burn your feet or something. I own a bunch of older ones and they s*ck for heat - again an opinion as I like heat to be so hot you have to open the window!

More: Brakes really have nothing directly to do with the climate control,

T

Response From lookitsflanny

I went online and got the Chiltons Manual for this boat. I'll never give up, I'll lose sleep until I figure it out but figure it out I will. I'm impressed with the configaration of the plug wires, you could power the space shuttle with the power plant I have under there, they don't make things like they used to, I prefer working on the older cars.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ya - the 4.6 is a pretty peppy engine and if new to this car don't be shocked to see over 20mpg out of it either on easy longer runs!

Do hit back when you find what is causing the heat issue for archives and I want to know for the next person anyway too,

T

97 Town car breaks gone.

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From outaluck1 on 97 Town car breaks gone.

1997
Lincoln Town Car
V8 4.6L
107000 mi

My breaks have no pressure and barely work to the point where i cannot drive it. The break lines are not leaking, and i checked the fuses and they all seem to be fine. The car has ABS and I am fairly sure that it is functioning properly, but the breaks just wont pressurize. Anyone know what it could be, if i could fix it at home or if it needed to be taken to a dealer, and how much it might cost me?

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Impossible to say what it is or how much it will cost to repair without being there to diagnose it.

Doesn't sound like you have brake experience so i strongly urge you to take it to the dealer or qualified repair shop to have it properly diagnosed and repaired.
Brake repairs like this shouldnt be performed unless an experienced tech is available.

90 lincoln town car map sensor

Showing 6 out of 20 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From caseystorie on 90 lincoln town car map sensor

I have a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with the 5.0 that has about 153000 miles on it. A couple of years ago the car was surging and dieing while driving it, i took it to a shop and they fixed it,it was a vacuum leek under the upper plenum that went to the map sensor. The next summer it started doing it again so i took it to a different shop and all he did was get into the ecm and mess around,averaging certain things if im not mistaken like the tps and map sensors,i dont know nothing about that stuff its just what he told me i think,anyway over the winter i ran somewhat better getting 10mpg c&h but the car never got up hot enough for the heater to work and the gas gauge goes crazy now up and down all the time and it started surging again,so i took off the upper manifold found out it didnt have a gasket and the map sensor was capped off so i put on a new gasket and ran the vacuum line to a new map sensor,and it runs great now(15mpg city) except it revvs up high on start up and idle back ok and it dies at stop signs.ive tested the voltage at the tps i was getting the correct readings before i took it to the shop now im not its reading 5.25 with the throttle closed,and the new map is reading 2.89 constant it dont matter if you vacuum pump it or not,the one that i took off a motorcraft reads 2.75. so stupid me i have my wife run it down to same shop as last time for the dieing at stop signs he said it your map sensor but adjusted the tps i think cause now it wants to pull a little while stopped with the brake on,but know i have three maps that all read the same or close to reading 2.89 & all but one is new.the service engine light tends to go off while driving till you idle down then it comes back on.whats going on??and also the gas gauge never acted like this till i took it there.i hope this made since cause it dont for me no more.so basically what happened i think was the first shop capped the map off,the second one did something in the ecm,then i fixed the real problem and then the second shop fixed the tps and tried to get her for $200 to put on a new map and that included the diagnosis ,she left only paying $90,i went and got a map but all three read the same??

Response From Hammer Time

What codes are being set in the computer?

Response From caseystorie

i just got the codes off it, the key on engine off codes are 11 and 22, the key on engine running codes are 21,44, 74.i have the air ride switch off due to it wanting to run almost all the time,the car dont sag though. im sorry i didnt let the car warm up i forgot and the 74 i did hit the brake

Response From Hammer Time

That doesn't make a ton of sense because 1 means system pass. 21 is a problem with the coolant temp circuit and 22 is a problem with the MAP sensor circuit. That doesn't automatically mean the sensor is the issue. It could be anything in the circuit. I don'ty know if that year has a data stream but that would be the first thing to look at before manually testing each circuit. The 44 is an air pump issue and the 74 just means you never energized the brake light switch during the test or there is a problem with the switch circuit.

Response From caseystorie

it does have a mass air flow on it , did this car not have it stock? it looks stock even the wires on the harness, thats probably why the vacuum line running to the map was plugged, so should i remove the vacuum and plug it back off like it was when i got it,and not worry bout the 22 code?? cause the car is running great now

Response From Hammer Time

Why would you do that. The car is equipped with a MAP sensor, it needs to work. The coolant temp sensor is just as important as the MAP or MAF.

Response From caseystorie

the first codes i got before i did anything was 11,22 53 63 87 91 44,.i then fixed the vacuum leek and put the new map on and a gasket inbetween the bottom and upper intake,then i got the codes 11 22 53 44 98,i took it to the shop the fixed the idle and said map sensor was bad,today i didnt warm up the car first and didnt hit the brake and the air ride was turned off and got the 11 22 21 44 74

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You're still getting MAP sensor and CTS codes so you still have a problem in the circuit.

Response From caseystorie

data stream that mustve been what the shop was into i mustve overlooked that earlier yes im still getting the map codes,but the three maps i have all read the same. i probe the middle wire and hook up my volt meter and hook up the vacuum pump and all three read from 2.90 -2.75 with no vacuum applied and it dont matter if i apply any or not. i assume im doing it right. maybe not?before i took it to the shop that did something inside the ecm, i used to be able to get the correct reading on the tps(i think it was just below 1 volt), now it says 5.25 with the throttle closed or open or anywhere in between.but i have tested it yet since this visit to the shop when they fixed the dieing at stop signs and the high revving(2000+/-400) at startup.know it dont die and the revving is down to where it should be at start,the heater now works,seems like the passing gear is alot better..the car has a mass air on it, is that a conversion or did the 90 town cars have that?

Response From Hammer Time

I already told you that just because you have a MAP code doesn't mean the sensor is causing it. There is a problem elsewhere in the circuit that needs to be found.

Response From caseystorie

ok sorry

Response From Hammer Time
















Response From caseystorie

dude i cant thank ya enough,thanks ,im off the next two days so ill get to it and see what i can find

Response From Discretesignals

MAP to MAF conversion was a popular thing back then for performance enthusiasts on the 5.0L. It involved buying the MAF sensor conversion kit.

To make it work you had to add an extra harness, pin the ECA connector and change the ECA to one that was used in a MAF sensor vehicle.

Response From caseystorie

the car does have a mass air flow on it,so where does this leave me,just ignore the 22 code,or what? i plan doing that checklist tomorrow,but if the car didnt come with the maf,im kinda stumped on what and if i should do anything,it kinda makes me wonder if the shop knew it had the conversion in the first place

Response From Hammer Time

No, this car came with both sensors and they both have to be operational. This is not an add on here.

Response From Discretesignals

Not all Town cars that year came with a MAF sensors. We have a regular customer that comes in for repairs that drives one of those and it doesn't have a MAF. I believe that some of the Town cars with California emissions came with a MAF sensor, but if this vehicle isn't California emissions, it was converted.

Why else would the MAP be capped?

Response From Hammer Time

Why else would the MAP be capped?

What good would it do to cap it if it's still live and an active part of the programming?

Response From caseystorie

MAP to MAF conversion on this? no idea if they did it wasnt brought up that i know of .it that why the vacuum line to the the map was plugged off but the wiring was still hooked up?and if it has the MAF is it the thing right after the intake filter box

Response From Discretesignals

Did they do a MAP to MAF conversion on this?