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2003 Peugeot 406 Disc Brake Pad - Front Centric - C-TEK Metallic Brake Pads-Preferred

P311-04E1BD9    102.12210  New

Centric Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • C-Tek Semi-Metallic Brake Pads with Shims
  • 2
  • Shimmed to eliminate noise and vibration. Formulated for reduced noise. Semi-Metallic compounds. Post cured for consistent performance throughout the service life of the brake pad. 100% Asbestos and Copper free formulas.
  • C-TEK Metallic Brake Pads-Preferred
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attribute ID (Type): California Proposition 65
    • Friction Material Thickness Inner Pad: 18.3
    • Friction Material Thickness Outer Pad: 18.3
    • Inner Pad Height mm: 56
    • Inner Pad Width mm: 130.7
    • Outer Pad Height mm: 56
    • Outer Pad Width mm: 130.7
  • Centric Parts offers a full line of C-Tek standard replacement brake and clutch parts for import and domestic vehicles. C-Tek components provide exceptional quality and value. Utilizing world-wide manufacturing sources allows Centric Parts to provide the highest quality replacement parts while maintaining value.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Peugeot 406 Front

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Brake Pad replacement ?

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From Guest on Brake Pad replacement ?

Hi all,

Has anyone replaced the rear brake pads on a peugeot 307 SW.

I bought the pads thinking it would be easy but I can't get the piston to go back into the caliper.

I can only assume that there is a none return valve, maybe connected to the hand brake.

Either way I can't get the sods back in to replace the pads

Any help would be appreciated

Response From DanD

If the parking brake works through the caliper, the caliper’s piston needs to be rotated in the bore and compressed at the same time to get them to retract.

Response From Guest

I think that you've got it, thanks Dan.

Although I suspect that I also have to open the bleed screw

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's best to bleed it out while retracting as you are not pushing old brake fluid back to the master cylinder. If you do that and don't intend on bleeding the whole system put a clear tube into a clean glass container from the bleeder and keep it submerged or air may get drawn back in.

It's a good time to just replace rotors as most don't have lots of extra metal to turn them,


Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

First off thanks for all your help.

This morning I loaded my tools into the car and set off to work (far easier to do this kind of job on a flat concrete floor with a big equiped workshop at hand).

So.......... yes the pistons must be twisted (clockwise), at thesame time as pressing them and yes once you know how its a piece of piss (excuse my french).

I had intentions of grinding the head of a bolt so that it would fit the piston head but as it turned out I took the easy option and...........

.........twisted the piston with a big pair of adjustable pliers (taking care not to damage the aluminium piston head), and pressed the piston in by turning (by hand), a big bolt I found in a disused factory next door (yes that easy).

Where things went a little wrong was I put a clamp on the brake hose so that I could bleed the old fluide out at thesame time but it would seem that under the rubber they are braided and so I flattened the tube a little. I did put the clamp on at 90° and that seems to of made my round hose into a square one.

However the good news is that they work

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep an eye on that hose or just replace it. It has been compremised,


Response From Guest

Will do