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Akebono
2006 Isuzu i-280 Disc Brake Pad Akebono

P311-505C7A6    New

Qty:
$74.41
Akebono Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - With Shims
  • Front
Brand: Akebono
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2006 - Isuzu i-280
Akebono
1993 Chrysler Concorde Disc Brake Pad Akebono

P311-2EF3F56    New

Qty:
$47.78
Akebono Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - With Shims
Brand: Akebono
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Vehicle
1993 - Chrysler Concorde
Akebono
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Disc Brake Pad Akebono

P311-44DD20F    New

Qty:
$87.60
Akebono Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - With Shims
  • Front
Brand: Akebono
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Vehicle
2002 - Dodge Ram 1500
Motorcraft
2008 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad Motorcraft

P311-1965FFA    New

Qty:
$49.78
Motorcraft Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
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2008 - Ford F-150
Motorcraft
2008 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad Motorcraft

P311-1965FFA    New

Qty:
$62.78
Motorcraft Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - With Shims
  • Rear
Brand: Motorcraft
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Vehicle
2008 - Ford F-150
Motorcraft
2009 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad Motorcraft

P311-1965FFA    New

Qty:
$62.78
Motorcraft Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - With Shims
Brand: Motorcraft
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2009 - Ford F-150
Akebono
2008 Subaru Impreza Disc Brake Pad Akebono

P311-2B635CB    New

Qty:
$61.80
Akebono Disc Brake Pad
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Brand: Akebono
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2008 - Subaru Impreza
Motorcraft
2010 Ford Transit Connect Disc Brake Pad Motorcraft

P311-4443E98    New

Qty:
$73.40
Motorcraft Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE - With Shims
Brand: Motorcraft
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Vehicle
2010 - Ford Transit Connect
NPN
1997 Mitsubishi Diamante Disc Brake Pad NPN

P311-4501A06    New

Qty:
$45.63
NPN Disc Brake Pad
  • - w/o Shims
  • Rear
Brand: NPN
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1997 - Mitsubishi Diamante
Advics-Sumi
1990 Mazda Protege Disc Brake Pad Advics-Sumi

P311-4A1EBBA    New

Qty:
$29.84
Advics-Sumi Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - w/o Shims NLA 3/16
  • Front
Brand: Advics-Sumi
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Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Protege
ATE
1990 Mazda Protege Disc Brake Pad ATE

P311-2DAAA8F    New

Qty:
$31.87
ATE Disc Brake Pad
  • - With Shims
  • Front
Brand: ATE
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Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Protege
Advics-Sumi
1991 Mazda Protege Disc Brake Pad Advics-Sumi

P311-4A1EBBA    New

Qty:
$29.84
Advics-Sumi Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - w/o Shims NLA 3/16
Brand: Advics-Sumi
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Vehicle
1991 - Mazda Protege
Advics
2002 Mazda Protege5 Disc Brake Pad Advics

P311-4F6C204    New

Qty:
$91.06
Advics Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - With Shims
Brand: Advics
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Vehicle
2002 - Mazda Protege5
NPN
2002 Mazda Protege5 Disc Brake Pad NPN

P311-1484521    New

Qty:
$42.30
NPN Disc Brake Pad
  • - w/o Shims
Brand: NPN
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Vehicle
2002 - Mazda Protege5
ATE
2002 Mazda Protege5 Disc Brake Pad ATE

P311-02F7118    New

Qty:
$62.18
ATE Disc Brake Pad
  • - With Shims
Brand: ATE
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Vehicle
2002 - Mazda Protege5
ATE
2007 Ford Edge Disc Brake Pad ATE

P311-2E5F450    New

Qty:
$70.17
ATE Disc Brake Pad
  • - With Shims
Brand: ATE
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Vehicle
2007 - Ford Edge
ATE
2015 Lincoln MKX Disc Brake Pad ATE

P311-2E5F450    New

Qty:
$70.17
ATE Disc Brake Pad
  • Incl.Clips
  • - With Shims
Brand: ATE
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Vehicle
2015 - Lincoln MKX
NPN
1994 Mazda MX-3 Disc Brake Pad NPN

P311-4418D0B    New

Qty:
$13.54
NPN Disc Brake Pad
  • - w/o Shims
  • Front
Brand: NPN
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Vehicle
1994 - Mazda MX-3
NPN
1995 Mazda MX-3 Disc Brake Pad NPN

P311-4418D0B    New

Qty:
$13.54
NPN Disc Brake Pad
  • - w/o Shims
Brand: NPN
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Vehicle
1995 - Mazda MX-3
Advics-Sumi
2002 Mazda Protege Disc Brake Pad Advics-Sumi

P311-0385C57    New

Qty:
$25.82
Advics-Sumi Disc Brake Pad
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o shims.
  • - w/o Shims NLA 3/16
Brand: Advics-Sumi
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2002 - Mazda Protege

Latest Brake Pads Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Struts leaking a bit - will oil get on my brake pads?

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From wireweaver on Struts leaking a bit - will oil get on my brake pads?

Year of vehicle: 1996
Make of vehicle: Holden
Model of vehicle: Apollo (same as Toyota Camry)
Engine size: 2.2 Litres
Kilometres: 167,000km

My car recently had its annual safety inspection and the mechanic initially failed it and is still adamant I have a safety issue because he said my front shocks/struts were old and leaking oil and needed to be replaced. When I challenged this decision on safety grounds (see below), he replied by saying the oil might get onto the brake pads and reduce their effectiveness. I still doubted him.

Can you have a look at these photos and tell me if the oil poses a safety concern - i.e. what is the chance of that oil getting onto the breaks pads ?

If you are an experienced mechanic your reply would be more valuable as my mechanic should respect your opinion more.

The following is information only and doesn't contain any questions
Why I think the struts/shocks don't need replacing:

  1. Very little oil. Referring to the above photos, the oil leakage looks like it has accumulated over time as it is covered in dust. It doesn't even cover the upper part of the strut seat and has negligible chance of getting on the brake pads.
  2. Safety repairs only. I only want to pay for repairs on this car which need to be done from a safety perspective. Nice to do things are out as I don't want to waste that kind of money. To have this job done, I would have paid the same mechanic who failed it about US$650 to replace them and do a wheel alignment (the safety inspection system here suffers from a conflict of interests because the inspector is the person who pockets the $$ from any repair jobs they identify - but that's another whole story).
  3. It passes the rules. I purchased the Australian NSW RTA's safety inspection rule book, and chatted to one of their technical advisers over the phone who told me they should pass inspection due to the small amount of oil leaking and that the rules wouldn't fail such a small leak.
  4. Bounce Test - All four shocks pass this test. I performed a bounce test on all four shocks and they are functioning perfectly OK. The shocks dampen the oscillation in less than 1 bounce, in fact when I push down and release the car body the bonnet doesn't even bounce back above its initial height.
  5. The tyres aren't unevenly worn. They could be if the shock absorbers weren't dampening the oscillations from the bumps.
  6. Toyota's guidelines. For a shock absorber that needs replacing (Toyota's guidelines found as a set of pictures here) indicate that mine don't. At worst, mine fits in the Level 4 category where oil seepage does not cover the entire body nor the spring seat of the shock. Refer to the following image from Toyota and the attached photographs from my car.

Thanks for your time

Response From Hammer Time

Bounce Test - All four shocks pass this test. I performed a bounce test on all four shocks and they are functioning perfectly OK. The shocks dampen the oscillation in less than 1 bounce, in fact when I push down and release the car body the bonnet doesn't even bounce back above its initial height.

I don't even see how that is possible. Virtually any oil leakage at all from a shock or strut will render it inoperative. The claim of oil getting on the brakes is really out there but I would fail it on the simple fact that the shock/strut would be dangerous because it would substantially deteriorate the handling of the vehicle.

Response From wireweaver

Thanks.

Why would Toyota's own guidelines permit a moderate amount of oil to be on the strut ? Surely oil as per their pictures here is OK, otherwise their formal guide is incorrect.

I know the bounce test isn't as thorough as a proper high speed dynamic test with a dedicated shock tester, but according to literature I've referenced (including my State's inspection manual) , there is nothing written to suggest my shocks pose a safety problem.

Response From zmame

like HT pointed out it won't perform as it's designed to with the oil leaked out of it. Some may fail it on safety some may not.. under ontario guide line aslong as a struck attached top and bottom it's considered safe by the MOT (Ministy of transportation). Now every province/state has there own rule and it all comes down the mechanic working on the car.

Response From Discretesignals

GM also came out with a TSB for strut leakage similar to the Toyota one. (TSB# 05-03-08-002C)

Check this out. No more using the strut as a jumper cable ground point...lol. Found it in Techlink:

http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2007/09/strut-leak.html

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer

well that sucks now where am I sapose to hook up my cables.

brake pads

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From TVCamMan on brake pads

I have a 2008 Chevy HHR, which are the better brake pads ceramic or semi-metallic.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Ceramic is the better pad, less noise, less dust but there are good and bad grades of ceramic also.

Uneven brake pad wear

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Phishr on Uneven brake pad wear

I own a 1993 Oldsmobile Bravada. I have less then 8,000 miles on my front brakes pads since I replaced them. The outside brake pads have minimal wear, while the inside brake pads wear is very uneven. The front of the pads are twice as thick as the rear of the pads. The rear of the pads are where the low wear sensors are and they're already touching the rotors. I bought the brake pads from Kragen and got the medium grade. I also installed brand new rotors. What is causing the tapered wear on my inside brake pads?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just curious - what did the old brakes look like? Same thing? Does this do this to both sides? I would normally blame this on a frozen caliper if pronounced on one side. The pads may just not fit properly or could be a hardware problem. The grade of brake parts should never mean they can't perform and wear out early or irregularly.

This could get more complicated if it did this to both sides,

T

Response From Phishr

The previous brake pads wore completely down to the point they were eating into the inside and outside of the rotors on both sides. The pad lining on all 4 pads was completely gone. There was nothing about them that made me think there might be some sort of problem. I did check my records and the last pair of pads lasted a bit over 10,000 miles.
The problem on my current pads is happening on both sides. The wear is identical. I'm wondering if I did something wrong when I installed them. It is a fairly heavy vehicle and I occasionally tow a dirt bike trailer. Would the added weight of the trailer cause this kind of brake wear?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's the heavy wear on the leading edge that has me thinking on this one?? I have known some cars to just eat brakes up fast and one happened to be a 93 Cavalier which may have similar brake design. I knew that Cavalier from near new till way over 200,000 miles and nice owner came in regularly after I did the third front brake job on this car with then maybe 45k on it and she was a bit ticked about them wearing out so fast twice on warranty! With that car I threw everything out - Rotors, calipers, best pads, flex hoses and she would come in every 7,500 miles for a grease, oil, filter, tire rotation when I always would look at brakes and the suckers were half gone - again!!

We just scheduled oil service with new brakes overy other time around for the next 150+K till she got another car. Nice even but fast wear out?? In fairness she was a bit hard on the brakes and this model was the convertible which weighs lots more than the regular car and I'll just chaulk that up to under sized brakes for the car.

The uneven wear makes me think the calipers can cock some with worn pins or the rubber they slide thru allowing this to happen. See if you can rock the caliper much just with your hands and look and it should show where they are not staying in line - caliper prob or the pins??

Do these wheels spin freely or can you feel some brake drag?

T

Response From Phishr

I checked the calipers and they were not loose at all. The tires seem to spin fairly easily with no uneven drag. I pulled the pads and rotors off tonight and the pads are gooved and cracked. The rotors have minor scorching. I was told that when you install new rotors, they should be turned first because they don't always run true....which I didn't do. Also, I didn't lubricate the caliper pins when I installed them last time, which is another thing I have learned you need to do. Could these be the causes of my problems?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

High quality rotors do not need to be turned and the ones I buy say right on the package if you do any warranty is over.

The cracks in the pads suggests high heat and perhaps those pads can't take it or they are worked too hard. If you don't lube up caliper pins they just don't stay free but that usually shows up as uneven wear or problems on just one side of the vehicle first.

It stinks but I'd start all over with nice new stuff and bleed out all the brakes and get new fluid in there. It's not good to just push back caliper pistons returning the fluid back to the reservoir either,

T

Response From Phishr

I got the rotors turned and installed premium brake pads. Once I got the pads seated they seemed to work fairly well. I lubricated everything fairly well and will check the brakes after 5,000 miles. Hopefully it was just a lack of lubrication on the calipers. Next front brake change I will plan on bleeding the brakes. Thanks for all of the help!

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Found this on the back pages. Kragen and Checker were hooked up. Now they're all Advance APs.
They must be selling cheap brake pads, made cheap.
I stopped trusting checker on anything electric along time ago. Won't trust them anymore on brake products either now, since I've had experience with uneven brake wear with their pads too. Advance APs too. I used to like Advance but I guess Zone is the way to go now.

Just replaced front brake pads and rotors, but my brakes arent working.

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From hcfan101 on Just replaced front brake pads and rotors, but my brakes arent working.

I bled them and everything, tightened all bolts, still no pressure on the brakes.

Response From Sidom

You called Tom.......It's been busy

Looks like you've said the same thing I would..... Does sound like the masters gone south.


You or anyone is never butting in, as always jump in with the solid advise.......

Response From hcfan101 Top Rated Answer

????

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sidom was on this so I left it alone but see it's been a couple days - sorry. Know we are all volunteers and most work full time. There could be a computer problem - sorry.

OK: I'll butt in and say when you've done brake work and can't get a "pedal" as I'll call it then there's either air still in the system after bleeding or many times on an older car especially the master cylinder in the course of bleeding manually which is common has just travelled into a new area of its bore which could be all crusty and tore the seals up right away and may bleed but not hold pressure again.

There are some other possibilities but not so common to me with this car.

Ideas for the fix. Plug off master cylinder and see if it will hold firmly. Try on car bench bleeding if it went dry of fluid air gets trapped and may not be so easy to get out. Usually that would result in a soft pedal but not NO pedal!

Some ABS systems will have specific procedures for bleeding if exposed. Just pads and rotors shouldn't have violated the hydraulics if system wasn't wide open. Most 91s didn't have ABS but could have.

My gut feeling is that the master cylinder tore up it's seals if there's no other seen issues. They don't leak in general when they do that - well yes but internally unseen not on the ground.

Best when saving calipers to retract the pistons by letting fluid out thru bleeder not pushing old fluid back up to master which is tricky to do and many don't. That's where the junky fluid would have accumulated from heat, any rust and just pushing that back up to master is really a no-no but done all the time especially by DIYers but shops have been known to do that too.

Again - my guess so far is master cylinder gave out even if not the original problem it very well could be now as said. IMO, a new one is not wasting money in that old of a car as it is a wearing part. Means you have to bleed out backs too if replaced too,

T

Response From hcfan101

Thank you very much, if thats not the problem ill let you know

Response From Sidom

Knowing what type of vehicle you are working on would help?

When you say you have no brks, do you mean the pedal is going all the way to the floor?

Response From hcfan101

its a 1991 cadillac deville, and yes the pedal goes to the floor all the way

Brake Pad replacement ?

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Brake Pad replacement ?

Hi all,

Has anyone replaced the rear brake pads on a peugeot 307 SW.

I bought the pads thinking it would be easy but I can't get the piston to go back into the caliper.

I can only assume that there is a none return valve, maybe connected to the hand brake.

Either way I can't get the sods back in to replace the pads

Any help would be appreciated

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Will do

Response From DanD

If the parking brake works through the caliper, the caliper’s piston needs to be rotated in the bore and compressed at the same time to get them to retract.
Dan.

Response From Guest

I think that you've got it, thanks Dan.

Although I suspect that I also have to open the bleed screw

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's best to bleed it out while retracting as you are not pushing old brake fluid back to the master cylinder. If you do that and don't intend on bleeding the whole system put a clear tube into a clean glass container from the bleeder and keep it submerged or air may get drawn back in.

It's a good time to just replace rotors as most don't have lots of extra metal to turn them,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep an eye on that hose or just replace it. It has been compremised,

T

Response From Guest

First off thanks for all your help.

This morning I loaded my tools into the car and set off to work (far easier to do this kind of job on a flat concrete floor with a big equiped workshop at hand).

So.......... yes the pistons must be twisted (clockwise), at thesame time as pressing them and yes once you know how its a piece of piss (excuse my french).

I had intentions of grinding the head of a bolt so that it would fit the piston head but as it turned out I took the easy option and...........

.........twisted the piston with a big pair of adjustable pliers (taking care not to damage the aluminium piston head), and pressed the piston in by turning (by hand), a big bolt I found in a disused factory next door (yes that easy).

Where things went a little wrong was I put a clamp on the brake hose so that I could bleed the old fluide out at thesame time but it would seem that under the rubber they are braided and so I flattened the tube a little. I did put the clamp on at 90° and that seems to of made my round hose into a square one.

However the good news is that they work