802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Brake Pads

Choose a Year for your Mercury 's Brake Pads

  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Akebono
    Akebono
  • Bendix
    Bendix

Best Selling Genuine Mercury Brake Pads

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Akebono, Bendix
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mercury Replacement Brake Pads Parts

We stock Brake Pads parts for most Mercury models, including Grand Marquis, Sable.

Akebono
1998 Mercury Tracer Disc Brake Pad - Front Akebono - Premium Ceramic Pads

P311-4AF27A4    ISD473  New

Qty:
$39.85
Akebono Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • OE Pad Material is Ceramic
  • Premium Ceramic Pads
Brand: Akebono
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Mercury Tracer Front
Bendix
1999 Mercury Sable Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix CQ

P311-1C3EC42    D601  New

Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad OE Ceramic
  • Bendix CQ
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Mercury Sable Front
Bendix
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix CQ

P311-1182AA9    D544  New

Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad Except police package
  • Bendix CQ
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Mercury Grand Marquis Rear
Bendix
1994 Mercury Sable Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix TitaniuMetallic II

P311-0949AB5    MKD421  New

Qty:
$39.25
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Mercury Sable Front
Bendix
Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Mercury Grand Marquis Front
Bendix
1986 Mercury Sable Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix TitaniuMetallic II

P311-0949AB5    MKD421  New

Qty:
$39.25
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad Police taxi
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Mercury Sable Front
Bendix
Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad Police package To 6/10/93
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Mercury Grand Marquis Front
Bendix
1991 Mercury Colony Park Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix TitaniuMetallic II

P311-271321A    MKD150  New

Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad Police package
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mercury Colony Park Front
Bendix
1995 Mercury Sable Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix CQ

P311-013CB27    D610  New

Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Disc Pad
  • Bendix CQ
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Mercury Sable Rear
Bendix
Qty:
$42.41
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • CANADA Disc Pad POLICE VARIABLE VENTURI
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Mercury Grand Marquis Front

Latest Mercury Repair and Brake Pads Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mercury Mystique brake pad problem

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From blt on Mercury Mystique brake pad problem

I am replacing front disc pads on my 97 Mercury Mistique. I swung the caliper out of the way, clamped the piston in and replaced the inner pad. No problem, but, the outer pad would not slip into place and is cocked and not flush with the caliper housing. This pad has t-shaped tabs which slide into cut outs in the caliper housing and has a rounded center portion which seems to bind up on the housing. I tried the other pad with the same result.

Will this fall into place if I put a clamp on it, or do I need to file a few thoudsanths off this rounded metal portion?

Is this a common problem with this style of brake pad? They're high quality Wagner OEM replacements.

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

You should have already removed the pad bracket from the car and cleaned up the channel with a wire brush before a attempting to put pads in.
Make sure any clips in there aren't bent or full of rust and apply a small amount of grease to the clips.

Response From blt Top Rated Answer

Thanks Hammertime,

I wire brushed and cleaned all parts, and lubed.(no rust to speak of) Turned out my arthritic hands were the problem. My friend with stronger hands popped it in place. This design is not what I am used to and the pads do not float freely like most other car disc brakes.
Might be the reason they only lasted 36,000 original miles.

remove rear rotors on 2004 mercury grand marquis

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on remove rear rotors on 2004 mercury grand marquis

How do you ger the rear rotors off a 2004 mercury grand marquis?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Those have the emergency brake pads inside the rotor. More than likely they have rusted enough that there is a ridge inside the emergency brake area and not allowing the rotor to come off. You can use a hammer on the rotor, outside between the studs. Be careful not to hit the studs, and the rust will fall off and allow enough movement to remove the rotor.

Brake Pull when raining 1999 Grand marquis

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Brake Pull when raining 1999 Grand marquis

I had the front brake pads (disc), rotors and calipers replaced on my 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis. Since then when it rains the brakes will pull to the left or right until they "heat up". When dry they work fine. I have taken it back to the shop several times and they can find nothing wrong. Any ideas?

Response From DanD

I’m not sure what to say but what gets my attention is that you say it will pull in ether direction, until things get warmed up? So I’m thinking is it a brake issue at all but maybe worn tires, worn steering or suspension component related?
Possibly when the tires are cold (hard) and wet they (one or the other) are hydro plaining and causing the pull?
In the steering & suspension it maybe something worn or binding causing the geometry to change during braking. But I guess that doesn’t really answer the after the warming it’s ok?
It still could be something with the brake, as in a hard set of pads or caliper(s) hanging up but the only way to confirm this would be to replace them again. Possibly with a different brand, incase it’s a manufactures defect in the parts themselves? Have the rear brakes been checked and serviced with the emphasis on serviced?
Dan.

Response From Guest

Thanks for the thoughts. I did also change the tires(4) with no effect on the problem. You mentioned "hard pads" (possibly defective), do you think that the rotors could be bad -- is that possible. Also is it possible for brake pads to absorb water? If so could that account for their good performance after heating up or when dry?

Thanks for your time.

Response From DanD

As long as the rotors have a relatively clean finish and running true laterally, I don’t think they would be the cause of a pull. The rotors would cause a shake or a pulse in the brake if they were an issue.
As for the brake pads absorbing moister; it’s not a common thing but I guess anything is possible depending on their constuction?
Do you know what kind as in manufacturer and design of brake pads that were installed?
Originally they would have been ceramic which give an all around better braking performance regardless of their temperature.
Organic and metallic pads needed to come up to temperature before they begin to function at their best. One or two brake application is all that is needed to get them heated up so it usually isn’t an issue. On the other hand overheated organic pads will begin to fade (loose their grip); meaning the brake peddle would remain with a normal feel but the brakes would barely stop the car.
Considering that this problem began right after the pad replacement; I would have them replaced again, regardless of their design; making sure that the replacements are of a good quality Ceramic.
Do not buy brake pads solely on price; you’ll get what you pay for. Believe this or not but there are no regulations in place that govern what a brake pad must be made of. If a manufacturer wanted; they could glue a hockey puck to a steel backer and sell it as a brake pad; believe me there is some crap out there that isn’t much more.
Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

As always it's near impossible to expound on Dan's replys. I was thinking about something here that may play a part in this -- there should be a shield of thin metal behind (inboard side) that directs flow of air that could be bent or broken off at time of pad replacement. Some have been so rusted on me that I removed them till they could be replaced. This mostly on back disc brakes here in the rust belt.

I have found plain asbestos to be the most sensitive to moisture and heat and would be illegal to sell for a '99 Grand Marquis in Massachusetts.

The complaint of braking problems while raining would lead me first to the pads. Could they have been mixed up in the box -- yes. I have opened several and found mistakes in new boxed parts where left and right are wrong or you get two lefts and such. Not all brakes are for left and right or even inner and outer.

If very recent I'd ask the shop about this and see if they are willing to replace just the pads and inspect for anything odd while there.

The place your shop got the pads should gladly swap any suspect new parts for another set. Brakes are too important to fool around with,

T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Thank you very much for the advice. I will go back and have the pads replaced and the brakes inspected for damage. The work was done at a Mercury dealer so I'm assuming that they put in Motocraft parts (I know assuming is dangerous), and it was not a "cheap" job, but I don't know what the pads were made from. I will try to find out, or at the very least specify ceramic pads for the replacements.

Again, thank you both very much for all of the help. I'll let you know what happens.

97 Mercury Villager - grinding noise

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From bambina on 97 Mercury Villager - grinding noise

My mini van makes a grinding noise when it is moving. I tap the brakes lightly (not necessarily to a stop) and the noise goes away. It first started a couple weeks ago and was only doing it when I made a left turn. Now it does it almost immediately upon my driving it. It isn't constant but it is happening more often than not.

The noise is coming from the front left side of the vehicle. Can anyone help me here?

Thanks!

Response From motorheadII

Could be brakes, a bearing, or the drive axle. This could be SERIOUSLY UNSAFE, and should be checked immediately by qualified people.

Response From bambina Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the headsup! I took it in today and it was the brake pads and rotors. Not a lot else I could do but have them do the work. Didn't come cheap either.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Motorhead II was right here. You may be out some bucks but no brakes costs tons more!!!!!! Worse if someone gets hurt!!!!!! Be safe,

Sitting car/grinding noise

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From HnTScarlet on Sitting car/grinding noise

My parents recently gave me a 96 Mercury Sable that had been sitting in their driveway for about 2 years. I have been driving this car for about a month now and things seemed fine at first. It was difficult to brake at first but has progressively gotten better. But within the last week it has started making a grinding noise coming from the rear passenger side tire (or so it seems to me) and more recently a squealing noise accompanying the grinding. I, at first, thought this was due to the fact that the rotor was rusty (the brake pads are fine) but I was told that if it were the rotors the noise would have been occuring from the beginning and should have faded away by now. Is this true? Are there other things I should be looking at/for?

Response From Hammer Time

You could have had rusted rotors to start with and then eventually wore the pad right down to metal. No matter what, you need to get it inspected ASAP and stop driving it.

Response From HnTScarlet Top Rated Answer

I just inspected the brake pads today and didnt see anything wrong with them. The rotor was still a little rusty. Do you think this rusty rotor is my problem or do you think its something else?

Response From Hammer Time

I can't diagnose your brakes without looking at them and you can't do it either without a thorough, professional inspection. Looking through the wheel doesn't cut it.