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CarJunky AutoAdvice

brake pads dragging

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Question From Guest on brake pads dragging

Hi, I have a 2002 lexus is300, with 82,000 miles on it. I just replaced the rear brakes, including rotors, calipers and pads. I bled the brakes good, and I have one of the pads dragging pretty bad. Any ideas what could be causing this? The calipers are also 2 pistons, and the pads are seated correctly in the calipers, i've checked that several times already. Thanks

Response From Guest

Take the wheel back off, remove the caliper, make sure the rotor is seated properly and grease the slider pins

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There are basically 3 things that will cause that in only one wheel

  1. Caliper piston is binding in caliper
  2. One or more of the caliper slides is frozen
  3. rubber brake hose is ruptured internally and restriction return flow of the brake fluid

Chevy Blazer

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Question From Guest on Chevy Blazer

I have a 1994 Chevy blazer. The driver front caliper seems to be sticking in that it takes a while for the pressure to release. After driving a little bit it frees up. The driver side when sprayed with water sizzles like a frying pan, the passenger side does not sizzle. I have bled the entire brake system and replaced the front brake pads and driver side rotor. Any thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

As yet, you haven't done anything to help this problem. You need to replace both calipers and both front brake flex hoses. Either one can cause this problem. The hoses rupture internally and don't allow the fluid to return.

Response From Guest

I replaced the drivers front flex brake line and bled the system. It works great. Thanks for the help.

Response From Hammer Time

You can likely expect more problems in the future if you don't replace both at the same time. It's the only way to get uniform braking.

new bakes on 2005 Hyundai Elantra

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Question From ordinerryjoe on new bakes on 2005 Hyundai Elantra

Hi all.
I just installed new brake pads and rotors in my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. It was pulsating badly. Now it brakes very nicely. However, after an 8 mile drive, I noticed a smell when I got out of the car. The wheel and tire on the drivers side was quite warm and the burning smell was coming from that side. The other side is OK. Any ideas on this one?

Thanks, Joe

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You have a brake that's not releasing properly. This could very likely be what ruined your old rotors.
It could be due to frozen caliper slides, frozen caliper pistons or internally ruptured flex brake hoses in front. I would probably replace the calipers and hoses but make sure you do it on BOTH sides, not just one. Check the movement of the slides in the process.

Response From ordinerryjoe

Thanks for the reply. The possibility of a bad caliper makes sense. If I had a ruptured hose somewhere, wouldn't I notice that I was losing brake fluid at the master cylinder? It remains full and has remained full.

Thanks, Joe

Response From Hammer Time

No, not at all. They rupture internally and restrict the fluid flow going back to release the brake. It applies it OK because of the pressure but doesn't release properly. It's a very common cause of disc brakes staying applied.

Brakes Fade, Low Pedal On 1998 Explorer

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Question From cycleman54 on Brakes Fade, Low Pedal On 1998 Explorer

I'm having trouble with brake fade on a 1998 Explorer 4WD,4wh Disc Brakes, with three-channel ABS. At slower speed, stop and go braking, the pedal is high and firm. After driving a short distance at freeway speed, the vehicle acts like only one axle is braking and the pedal goes almost to the floor. The brake pads were all replaced and all rotors resurfaced. A brake fluid exchange was also done. Vehicle has 171,000 miles with original Master Cylinder.
Brakes have been bled several times (gravity and vacuum bleed) until nothing but clean, clear brake fluid comes out of bleeder screws. I have tried cracking the brake line fittings at the M/C and the EHCU. Didn't get any air out of those. While stationary on the lift, all four wheels lock tight when brake pedal is depressed. I've run out of ideas to try to solve this problem. Has anyone had a similar challenge or know of anything else I could try? Cycleman55

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Are you sure the brake pedal is dropping to the floor or close? Or is it just getting hard and it feels like it is dropping to the floor? Brake fade is caused by heat and it creates a glaze on the pad and rotor and the brakes just slide over the rotor. The brake pads do not "give" as designed and therefore the pedal stays high. If the pedal is dropping, isolate the Master Cylinder to see if it is by-passing internally.

1971 Chevy Truck brakes slow to stop

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Question From xprmntl1 on 1971 Chevy Truck brakes slow to stop

Chevy Truck

I have replaced: Master Cylinder, front brake pads(disc), booster valve, all new brake lines front to back even rubber lines to calipers.

Differentials are from a 1991 Suburban 4wd, using prop. valve and booster from my 4wd 1971.

I have a very firm pedal, have to use excessive force to get truck to stop, cant get brakes to lockup on grass or gravel, not sure if booster is my problem. I pulled vacuum hose loose from booster while truck is running and rpm's dont drop, but if I block off hose with my finger rpm's drop. Could my booster have an internal leak? I changed the blockoff valve that mountes to front of booster also.


Response From Hammer Time

Shut the truck off, pump the brake pedal a couple times to exhaust all vacuum. Now hold firm pressure on the brake pedal while starting the truck and watch for the pedal to drop. If it does, the booster is working.

Response From xprmntl1

Ok, I did as you said and the pedal most definitely did not drop at all. So the booster is the problem? Also, with the booster not working properly or at all will I not be able to lock the brakes up with enough force? Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, that is the whole purpose of the booster. It increases the brake pressure.

Make sure you have a good vacuum supply going to it from direct manifold vacuum.

Response From xprmntl1

Do trucks with discs and no power brake booster have the same feel as mine?

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know. I've never seen a truck with Disc brakes and no power in the last 30 years.

Response From xprmntl1

Thanks for your help guys

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Do trucks with discs and no power brake booster have the same feel as mine?"

No. Vehicles without power assisted brakes or steering used to just increase the leverage for brakes and steering wheels were larger with more turns stop to stop of the wheel. They drove fine but a pain - had a few. I don't think much of anything short of a lawn tractor doesn't do power assist anymore for a long time now,


Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Check the booster is getting full intake manifold vacuum and what the real intake manifold vacuum is.

Other maybe: There's a proportioning valve that may be involved?


Response From xprmntl1

I'm not sure what full vacuum is, but if I cover the hose with my finger it has pretty good suction? I was going to replace the prop. valve next, just didnt wanna keep throwing parts at this problem. Thanks!