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1997 Hyundai Sonata Disc Brake Pad - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-0338D00    082-1313  New

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$14.55
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • PREMIUM ORGANIC; Original Equipment Type Pad Material
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Hyundai Sonata Rear
Beck Arnley
2007 Hyundai Entourage Disc Brake Pad - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-1642E73    086-1725C  New

Qty:
$33.30
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • CERAMIC; To 4/27/06
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Hyundai Entourage Rear

Latest Hyundai Repair and Brake Pads Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

new bakes on 2005 Hyundai Elantra

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From ordinerryjoe on new bakes on 2005 Hyundai Elantra

Hi all.
I just installed new brake pads and rotors in my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. It was pulsating badly. Now it brakes very nicely. However, after an 8 mile drive, I noticed a smell when I got out of the car. The wheel and tire on the drivers side was quite warm and the burning smell was coming from that side. The other side is OK. Any ideas on this one?

Thanks, Joe

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You have a brake that's not releasing properly. This could very likely be what ruined your old rotors.
It could be due to frozen caliper slides, frozen caliper pistons or internally ruptured flex brake hoses in front. I would probably replace the calipers and hoses but make sure you do it on BOTH sides, not just one. Check the movement of the slides in the process.

Response From ordinerryjoe

Thanks for the reply. The possibility of a bad caliper makes sense. If I had a ruptured hose somewhere, wouldn't I notice that I was losing brake fluid at the master cylinder? It remains full and has remained full.

Thanks, Joe

Response From Hammer Time

No, not at all. They rupture internally and restrict the fluid flow going back to release the brake. It applies it OK because of the pressure but doesn't release properly. It's a very common cause of disc brakes staying applied.

'02 Hyundai Elantra brake drum clicking noise

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From rfrainman on '02 Hyundai Elantra brake drum clicking noise

02 Hyundai Elantra has rhythmic clicking sound from the rear drums that corresponds with wheel speed. replaced pads about a year ago still clicked. Replaced drums and pads last week, sounded fine for a few miles then clicking back full force. Touch the brakes lightly no sound, as pressure added it gets louder, both wheels. It's driving me crazy, any help greatly appreciated.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you machine the drums? Was there any recent repair work done to the brake system prior to the clicking noise?

Response From rfrainman

Didn't machine drums, just got new ones. No other brake repairs.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

When you typed pads, do you mean front brake pads or are you meaning shoes instead of pads? Do you feel any brake pulsations in the brake pedal or steering wheel when applying the brakes at highway speeds?

Response From rfrainman

Sorry, Yes I meant brake shoes. No pulsations. It's when the brakes are applied and maybe more of a thunk, people outside the car stare like "why the hell your brakes so noisy".
Hub caps are little plastic things held on by the lug nuts.
There was a little pulsation on braking but not since replacing drums and shoes.
Have I said that I hate this car-my wife bought it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

?? It quit it for a while when new shoes and drums were done so I suggest going back and look at the brakes and hardware in general or anything out of ordinary. Consider new brake hardware if not done with the rears just because. Not usually very expensive and if some dinky something breaks it can ruin the brakes,

T

Response From rfrainman

Tom, I did "spring" for the new hardware. The only old parts are self adjusters and wheel cylinders.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - But for the sake of just looking for something that isn't right it should still be ruled out. With drum off you could just nudge the parts around and see if something isn't right maybe?

A noise that changes with using or not using brakes is worth investigating for sure. Spin the bearing while there too. It isn't normal so something is going on,

T

Response From rfrainman

Mr. Greenleaf, I checked it all over and took it out to see what happens when I use the emergency brake. It made the same noise but then faded away as I applied more pressure. Now the noise has stopped! I can't believe it! I'm not sure why that solved it but it did. Thanks for time and expertise. I love CarJunky.

NEVER MIND. IT'S STILL MAKING THE NOISE :(

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think OP means shoes? No matter, a wild arse guess that could elude easy discovery might be a hubcap if used on this car! If, if, if removing them makes the noise go away see what holds them on + where like a wire loop and clean them up or paint just that area then put them on another wheel.

Even less likely but happens. If a steel wheel with spot welds look for evidence of those not holding. Wheels do flex some with assorted forces on them,

T

2007 Hyundai Elantra Brakes Grinding

Showing 5 out of 9 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From bosstone75 on 2007 Hyundai Elantra Brakes Grinding

Hello - Trying to decide if I have what it takes to diagnose and repair this issue.

I have a 2007 Hyundai Elantra with 120,000 miles on it. I bought it used, so I don't have a maintenance history except after 105,000.

I've replaced the rear brake pads and rotors because when I bought the car, I had it inspected and they said that would need to be done soon. I performed that job about 2 months ago and things seemed fine.

A couple of days ago, I noticed some slight grinding of my brakes as I applied the brakes at low speeds. Didn't notice the noise going from 65-20 MPH, just went I get down to the low speeds. I believe the sound is coming from the front passenger side wheel. I also can feel the grinding in the pedal as I brake.

Yesterday, I noticed the grinding had gotten louder. I also started noticing yesterday that the grinding persists after I remove my foot from the brake pedal and then start moving. I believe the grinding only occurs when I start moving, but when I get up to 10 - 15 MPH or so, I believe the grinding goes away.

Now I've gotten so paranoid, it's possible I hear the grinding noise at all sorts of different speeds, but I can't be sure.

Could it be as simple as my pads have just worn down to the indicator and even when I release the brakes that they still lightly brush against the rotors? Or, is the fact that the grinding continues after removing my foot from the brake pedal a sure sign that there is something wrong with the calipers? Or something worse?

I'm going to be taking the tires off the car after supper here and will report back on what the pads look like.

Thanks in advance!
Bill

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know why you are wasting your time on a forum instead of removing the wheel and looking to see what is going on. You're never going to know until somebody looks to see.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote ">>I performed that job about 2 months ago and things seemed fine."

Like Hammer Time just said. Get off the web and go look. First place to look with problems frequently is the last place that was worked on,

T

Response From bosstone75

So, I pulled off the front wheels and checked the brake pads.

The brake pads on the front passenger side were worn down to the nub. I replaced those.
The brake pads on the front driver's side were thin, but not as warn down as the ones on the passenger side.

As part of that whole process, of course I had to push the caliper back. I used a caliper compression tool to do that. Both calipers moved back without too much force although it's a bit hard to tell since it's a threaded tool.

Overall the rotors were still fine. The driver's side rotor had some minor scratches on the inside of the rotor. I'm thinking it's because the pad was worn completely down.

Installed the pads, put the car back together.

Grinding sound was gone. Brakes work fine. Car does not veer in either direction when driving or braking. So, a lot of signs that the caliper is fine.

My plan is to check the pads out after a couple of weeks of use and see if there's a significant difference in wear between driver's and passenger's side.

Response From Hammer Time

The brake pads on the front passenger side were worn down to the nub. I replaced those.

You did change the pads on both sides, right?

Response From bosstone75



The brake pads on the front passenger side were worn down to the nub. I replaced those.

You did change the pads on both sides, right?

Response From Hammer Time

Did you forget to type something there?

Response From bosstone75 Top Rated Answer

Hum... I typed something and hit Post Reply...

Anyway... I did replace both sets of brake pads on the front wheels.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - When you don't have evenly worn brakes left and right side of same end THEN you have to question calipers, flex hoses or a hardware problem. That's why shops will default to more parts if that is found.

IMO it showed you a warning and you ignored it and a shop would catch shat fast long after a customer complained about it costing more. It costs more to do it all over again or worse an accident that could be avoided if they totally failed.

Back to square one now. When in doubt like that with brakes, toss it out and do the whole job,

T

2008 Santa Fe with Rear Axle problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Temmysho on 2008 Santa Fe with Rear Axle problems

Year: 2008
Make: Hyundai
Model: Santa Fe
Engine: 3.3L
Mileage: 60,000

I recently changed the brake pads on the vehicle, and then noticed that whenever I turn the wheel either to the left or to the right, it becomes stiff and the tyres dont move. In reverse, you hear a heavy sound every time you go backwards. A neighbourhood technician diagnosed that the rear axle must be changed. Will appreciate your thoughts on this.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Let me get this straight.....

You replaced the brakes and then immediately it was not even drivable and you think this was something that occurred naturally?

I think it's time someone professional checked your work.

Brake Caliper Keeps Seizing

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From blazini1 on Brake Caliper Keeps Seizing

So, we have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L automatic, non-ABS with 70,000 miles on it.

I have never come across this issue before but the front driver side brake caliper keeps locking up about 10-15 minutes into a drive.

I've changed the brake caliper, master cylinder, flex line, of course bled the system, brake pads and rotors and STILL, it seizes. When it locks up, it's extremely difficult to change the transmission out of park. I am stumped on this one.

Any one have any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

You may have the push rod for the master cylinder set up with no free play at all. The pedal needs about a 1/4" of free play so the master can completely release. Otherwise it will build up pressure.

The next time the wheel is locked up try loosening the bolts that hols the master on so you canpull it away about 1/4" and see if that releases the brake. It happens at the left front first because that is the closest to the master.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Did you twist up flex line into a pig-tail? That would do it. That or if that one gave you a really hard time you may have mashed it up and it might have developed a "Reed" effect letting fluid in but not out?


I didn't think this was available w/o anti-lock brakes? Do you have a yellow warning light for it when key it turned? It should,


T