Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Brake Pads

Choose a Year for your GMC 's Brake Pads

  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003

Best Selling Genuine Gmc Brake Pads

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Bendix
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Gmc Replacement Brake Pads Parts

We stock Brake Pads parts for most Gmc models, including Savana 1500, Savana 2500, Savana 3500, Yukon, Yukon XL 1500.

2006 GMC Yukon Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix Semi-Metallic

P311-0EA2ACD    MKD974A  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad
  • Bendix Semi-Metallic
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2006 - GMC Yukon RWD Rear
2008 GMC Savana 3500 Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix Semi-Metallic

P311-016B326    MKD989  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad DRW
  • Bendix Semi-Metallic
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - GMC Savana 3500 Rear

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1994 gmc sonoma v6. clutch

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From fer308qv on 1994 gmc sonoma v6. clutch

clutch engages with pedal near floor. cant use floor mats it is so low. worn clutch? I understand there is no adjustment for this.

Response From Hammer Time

That's right. That's the way hydraulics work. It's always possible you have mechanical issues too but definitely not adjustable.

Response From fer308qv

low pedal = bad clutch? hi pedal = good clutch?

Response From Hammer Time

No, the other way around unless something is not letting it disengage normally, not real likely.

Response From fer308qv

So I possibly have air in the system. Purging or bleeding may allow the disengaging point to come further away from the floor. If I understand.

Response From Hammer Time

How much free play before you hit some resistance in the clutch pedal?

Response From fer308qv

about an inch.........sloppy loose.....tried to address that, but there is nothing to adjust.

Response From Hammer Time

If you have excessive free play at the top, that could indicate air in the system but you would have to figure out how it got in there and resolve that issue before bleeding it..

Response From fer308qv

condition has existed since I have owned it ....about 9 years...........I am addressing it now because I want to replace the rubber flooring that now has torn from not being able to have floor mats. I will have the system bled I guess.....Will be a good start.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

19 years old, you've owned it this way for NINE years like this! I'm lost - Is the floor bent? - T

Response From fer308qv

floor isnt bent , but the carpet is worn through........
its a work truck that i put around 3500 miles a year on ..this winter im giving it a little tlc.........was looking at other trucks , but for the money mine is still fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! I've tried to find exact pictures of this layout in whole given that pics help. Being there would be and just might be necessary to know exactly why this is like this and could be like that for so long as I would have guessed a failure would have happened by how I am interpreting your situation.

Seems universal that this is not adjustable. That alone doesn't mean things are all fine or will behave fine with engagement and disengagement at the right spot in the travel of the pedal inside. It should have some "free-play" area at the top such that you could just push it with your finger and have some "nothing" room which is needed. I'm not sure our understanding of what you are describing and how we are interpreting just what it's doing and that happens. The web is fantastic but not like experience and actually seeing and touching things whatever they are.

Found that the fork that the slave cylinder seems to be a popular replacement item for this. Not sure how much of this part you can see if much at all but it's like this.......

The slave cylinder has a fixed rod that pushes on the lower left of that bar if you will with the dimple centering the pushrod of the slave which looks like this....

That pointed rod is at a set length so would not be adjustable as said. If there was no air, no fault in the hydraulics anywhere, not a bend pedal inside or floor somehow bent up in the travel area IMO there is a higher chance that this item or the fork has an issue. I'm plain not sure you can view it operating in this case.

Some of these set up the bleeding is VERY difficult to get right. So if in the life it needed to be bled it could still have air which IMO and experience would make the actual pressure to release, disengage clutch where it would also engage be lower to the floor. Air would highly likely be odd feeling at assorted temps or multiple pushes on clutch pedal may change it's spot where on pedal travel the show happens.

Trouble is to fully investigate this hands on you or a tech would first check that the pedal and pivot action inside was fine, might plug master cylinder with line removed to feel then a solid hard pedal, watch the action at the slave and just might have to remove the transmission to check it out more if it can't be seen or an inspection cover removed. That fork probably requires transmission removal if bent, worn somehow. If that and keeping this almost anyone would suggest doing a full clutch replacement job. If not a rusted mess it may not be that horrible to do labor/time wise.

I'm reading between the lines that you care about this truck enough to replace the rubber floor/carpet, have just said you don't put that many miles on it. Hey, having this vehicle is probably very useful. Being a GM truck especially there will be parts for it for ages including many common things that would be dealer only.

In short this isn't the way the clutch should behave. I/we can't know your abilities to rule everything out down to the last possible reason for this or if you really are willing to pay to take it apart down to the clutch or do that yourself. I didn't check but I wouldn't have it all apart and not put a new clutch job with parts generally not that costly as things go vs time to get there. By age alone if keeping it, it would be nice to know it was done but just a clutch job alone isn't necessarily going to change this problem so it needs to be checked while intact now IMO by you or a tech.

If nothing else I'll warn you that if there's a hole in the rubber flooring it will get moisture in there that will not dry out well and be another problem entirely to fix. Such is life,


Response From Discretesignals

If the pressure plate fingers are worn out or if they don't extend out far enough, you have low engagement also.

Response From fer308qv

Thank you all for the tips..........will investigate last question.......Is there an inspection cover that can be removed to inspect clutch plate?
Other GM vehicles do........I assume this does.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Others may have some tricks to make a judgement on the clutch itself for wear - I don't know of anything very dependable except taking it apart then you see everything including how worn flywheel might be. If you just saw a mess of metal filings or like brake dust to excess would alarm me. You've driven it for 9 years and didn't mention having a new one yet does suggest you didn't drive it too improperly. Some people can eat up a clutch in no time or miles and some can get the whole possible life of a vehicle out of them.

Maybe I missed something over all the years but people would ask me how long one is going to last on a used vehicle or one they've owned and I can drive it, see that it grabs assertively, no strange noises and still can't say how long it will last or where in its life expectancy it is??


Response From fer308qv Top Rated Answer

I bought the truck with 145k on it. The truck had a new clutch prior to that. I am easy on the clutch having driven them all my driving life some 40 years......2 months a year I haul a heavy compressor . This stresses both the clutch and the brake pads. There has been recent clutch chatter occasionally, but no slipping what so ever.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I believe you know how to treat a clutch to some degree. 40 years of thinking you know how means nothing. You spent all this time and ignored the issue proves you don't know how to use a clutch. Entire auto makers don't offer them because of this. You have no clue and ignored it.

Case closed,


Response From fer308qv

I have no idea what you meant in your last post Tom...............But thank you anyway for the technical information you provided.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

With all my respect - really. There's something not right in this whole tread. If this problem came to me in person it would be handled, fixed or explained. I can' do that.

Hey - #1 is we so called professionals volunteer our time 100%. This issue should be a cake walk for a tech actually there which so far the WWW can't do.

You've put up with is for all these years I don't know how to advise. This vehicle was near new when I retired - yup - that long ago. Aready beaten to death is this needs to be witnessed by a tech. For the life of me I can't suggest better than that. If you want to fix this yourself or not it needs YOU to part with some bucks for where to go,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hydraulic clutch LINKAGE not the clutch itself. If it wont disengage it would be air in it that doesn't belong, faults with master clutch cylinder, slave cylinder or any parts involved.

Wrong fluid (an oil) would destroy those too with anything rubber but perhaps not instantly,


1997 GMC K1500 Z71 Rear Brake Failure After Repair

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Repute3619 on 1997 GMC K1500 Z71 Rear Brake Failure After Repair

The vehicle is a 1997 GMC Sierra K1500 Z71.

After replacing the front brake pads, the extra pressure made the brake line leading to the rear burst. Also upon replacing the brake pads, it was discovered that the front drivers side bearings were worn out. The front drivers side hub was replaced and is working great. The brake line leading to the rear was replaced, brake lines were bled and now the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and only the front brakes are working.

After the repair the rear brakes were not working, I pumped the brakes quite a few times then went to back out of my driveway and the rear passenger side brake locked up after about 6 ft. out of my driveway. The rear was jacked up and after attempting to move the wheel by hand it released. There are still no rear brakes at all after driving it around the country a little to avoid any other vehicles incase the locking up occurred again.

(EDIT) I wanted to add that since the repair the brake light on the dash is now on.

I was hoping for any advice on what the issue may be now.

Most recent related repairs include a front drivers side brake line leak 16 months ago. At the time the brake pedal was going most of the way to the floor and soon after a leak started to appear. The line was replaced and everything brake related was working fine up until the hub and brake line replacement that was done today (05/26/2012).

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Line that broke probably was from rust and was waiting to happen anyway. This locking up thing means rears need total inspection, parking brake and all. If brakes were bled doing the fronts, the master cylinder could have taken a hit. Techs should be able to figure this out in stride,


Response From nickwarner

Did you use a proportioning valve depressor tool on the ABS unit when you bled it? If not you'll never get it go right. Costs about $35 from OTC, local parts stores can order one in.

Response From Repute3619 Top Rated Answer

Finally figured out the problem. The wheel cylinder! Also replaced a rear brake line and reset the ABS. Everything seems to be working great. Thanks for all the help. If anyone has any comments on problems they think may arise or otherwise, I'd be glad to hear! Thanks again everyone.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

So far so good - hope you did both sides as protocol with brakes is to do just that and if one failed the other probably isn't far behind,


pad dragging

Showing 5 out of 11 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From jackx on pad dragging

I put some front new rotors and new brake pads on my 1989 gmc s15 4.3 Jimmy. Now I can hear them
dragging. What should I do to stop the dragging. I was thinking that maybe I could put some
lube on the two slider bolts. Will this help or is there something else I need to do.

Response From Hammer Time

They're supposed to drag somewhat. They don't have return springs. They merely relieve the pressure.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some drag normal till you've driven along as said but you shouldn't notice. Lube calipers as also mentioned - actually should be a routine service if there anyway always check or relube any pins, spots intended for lube. If you don't know you really shouldn't be touching brakes.

Also said - don't let caliper hang by hose. Always support it, hang it with wire or what works - bungee cord - something. You pull on hose hard enough just plan on replacing both at this age anyway not a bad idea for a second or third set.

Refresh: Some drag expected right in front of you but not after any driving along. Pretty much front wheels while on but hoisted should coast when spun by hand and if not it's hanging up and needs attention,


Response From jackx

I have put a lot of brake pads on my vehicles over the years. I don't let the calipers hang either.

On occasion though I have had one slip and drop before I got it was secure while I changed out the pads.

This old truck has 279,000 miles on it. I have driven it about 80-100 miles since I put the pads on

and with the windows down you can hear them dragging. If you jack it up and spin the tire it drags.

The drag does not make it hard to turn the tire. I just makes a lot of racket. I hate to just start

replacing stuff without knowing what is bad though. It was not dragging before I put the new pads

and new rotors on.

The price of the parts is not that much. Can the calipers be bad? They have a lot of miles on them.

Should I start with the hoses and if that does not fix it then get some more calipers.

When I greased up the slider bolts they were not that rusty but I did notice some flat rub marks on them.

I thought about putting the old pads back on because they are only about half worn out but when you

press them together there is a slight rock back and forth which may have been caused by the old rotors.

So I figure they are shot. The shake in the steering wheel is gone now but it appears the rear drums

may need to be replaced too because I can feel some shake from the rear end now when I use the brakes

to slow down at 70 mph. You can feel it in the brake pedal.

Everything else under the front end is much new and has been checked out by an alignment shop.

I've never had this come up before when I put on new brake pads.

Response From Hammer Time

Again .............. what you have is normal. You don't have a problem. They will probably quiet down once they seat.

Response From Hammer Time

Are you sure it's not the backing plate touching the rotor that you're hearing?
Pads generally don't make any noise when they drag.

Response From jackx

You are right on the money Hammertime. I got to thinking after I made the post and that
racket sounded like metal on metal.

So, I pulled the rotor off the one that was making the racket and the backing plate
was rubbing the new rotor about 3/4 down the way from the outer edge. Now the new
rotor has some grooves in it but it is on the back below where the pads rub. I hope that
won't cause any new problems.

Wow that must be a tight fit.

I wacked it a couple times with a body shop hammer so it would not get dented and
presto no more racket.

Tks for the help. You can close this now if you want. I am good to go.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can argue the scratches from a backing plate but they shouldn't cause a real braking force problem at all unless out of control - if they stop properly, no pulling pad will match the scratch or rotor smooth out a bit on its own,


Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I doubt it actually grooved the rotor, just left some marks. Yes, the clearance is usually less than 1/8 inch in some places.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

IDK what a "dragging" sound you say really means? Doesn't matter if you've done "pads" a zillion times and now have some that aren't behaving in one way or another. Calipers have pins I think and rubber inside that if all worn out would be loose at some point you really have to toss everything for new usually long before 270K miles. Rotor to hub I think it just pulls off and any crust not assertively cleaned out the rotor will wobble even a new one if crust on the hub.

Outer pads I think all you bend the ears to be tight. If you whack those and hit just wrong you crack the pad and sorry to say I've done that.

Inner should be a spring, just a hook either already on pad or attached. Not always tight enough so you bend that just right.

Flex hoses really don't need a reason to mess up. Just pushing back pistons the flow is backwards in volume. They can act like a check valve and drag then let go or stay dragging now allowing fluid release.

As brakes go these are about as straight forward as they get. Didn't look back at how worn these were or if you did anything with calipers but by now if worn enough piston had come out quite far and can go cock-eyed and damage it. You would see that unless you took it apart and if you did you replace the rubber ring and dust seal which cost more than another caliper about now.

If you recall if pads were riveted or bonded the riveted ones are more likely IMO to crack - whacked behavior if they do and only looking right at them again will tell.

You may have to just take this all apart (pretty easy as they go) and look at what's wrong,


Response From kev2

well your expected to clean and grease them - there is often a special grease supplied - just ask for it at part store.
there are anti rattle clips, pads etc...
Hope you did NOT let calipers hang 'dangle' on brake lines during work...

rear disc - 03 GMC

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From tedohh on rear disc - 03 GMC

Anyone know? Not rocket science so I'm feeling pretty dumb. Doing rear disc brakes on my 03 GMC 1500 4x4. Passenger side - no problem. Driver side, can't get the rotor off. Seems to be hung up on the parking brake pads? Probably pounded on it too much. Can't see how to release tension on the parking brake. No star wheel slot. Thinking about getting a large gear puller but that's not the right answer. Need to get it done this AM. Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bro has a Tahoe and left rear parking brake was defective since new and GM won't own up to it. Spoke to GM engineering about this and they still wouldn't take any responsibility or suggest a repair as they had fixed it improperly twice already when under warranty.

To fix: The root of the problem is the hold-down clip on the driver's side is only correct for the passenger's side. It should be asymetrically opposite and OE was not. New aftermarket parts have been correct and called the hardware kit for the little drum/parking brake. If you can wobble the rotor it should come off. Turn forward and back while pulling and if that fails just cut the little "nail" type pin that goes thru that clip and get the damn thing off.

Notes: Don't mess it all up adjusting the cable as that just makes for more work later. Expect to need a new rotor. Remember this brake is static in real use so there is never a time when it drags to work which would keep the gun rust clean and I suggest doing that now and then for just a few seconds on any parking brake like this.

I can't be sure if this is the exact problem with yours but it looks smells and feels just like the one I went thru. You should only need to adjust this brake once from inside first - then at cable. What happened is the shoe tilted and wore itself out beyond where it could ever make contact again which results in no parking/emergency braking action.


Comment: Nice move GM, Ford and others. What were you jerks thinking about for even putting a disc brake on the back of a non sports car to begin with? There was nothing wrong with the age old way to do this but must have gotten side tracked thinking on you CadCam that this would be better somehow. Wrong! Ever wonder why you lose market share by the zillions to competition?


Response From tedohh Top Rated Answer

Thanks Tom. All's well. I ended up renting a larger gear puller and it was off in 30 seconds. I was replacing all 4 rotors as they were badly rusted even on the outer edges of the friction surface. This is my first vehicle with rear discs. I wonder if the idea was to even out the braking more between front and rear. Either way, the rear pads were down to nothing and probably 3/8 left up front. Anyway they're all new now. Thanks again.