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2002 Chrysler Sebring Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix CT-3

P311-316A1B2    D869CT  New

Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad OE Ceramic
  • Bendix CT-3
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2002 - Chrysler Sebring Convertible Front
1989 Chrysler New Yorker Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix TitaniuMetallic II

P311-2B62452    MKD385  New

Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Disc Pad Without sensor
  • Bendix TitaniuMetallic II
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Chrysler New Yorker Front
2001 Chrysler Sebring Disc Brake Pad - Front 4 Cyl 2.4L Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

P311-3F862A5    DX484  New

MR389540 , 5018942AA , 5016228AA , 5093021AA , MR389546 , MR205143 , MB950555 , MR389537 , MR569592 , MR569780 , 4882070 , 5012651AA , MR475244 , MR389580 , 5018945AA , 5019767AA , MR569403 , 5114424AA , 5083071AA , MZ690166 , MR493984 , MR389511 , MR569588 , MZ690001

Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Hardware Kit Included
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Chrysler Sebring Coupe Front L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351

Latest Chrysler Repair and Brake Pads Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Unusual tire ware and brake pad ware?

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From deathwiz on Unusual tire ware and brake pad ware?

I have a 2011 Chrysler 200 touring with about 30k miles on it. I have had to replace the brake pads about 4 times already and the factory tires that came on it. I replaced the tires with 10000 mile tires that went bald within 13000 miles of use. The dealership will not help with this and says that nothing is wrong. Chrysler themselves will not do anything to help. And before people ask... I do not drive recklessly, speed, or drift. What can be causing this?

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

Please clarify some items. and give more info. You say you bought tires rated for 10000 miles and they lasted 13000 miles (TYPO ?) What kind of "wear" are you having , are tires wearing out even but premature.Are they wearing on one edge ,inside or outside are they cupping or a sawtooth effect ? On the brakes was it even wear on inner and outer pads . Was the calipers replaced, at brake job. Did all brakes wear out at same time or did one wheel trigger the brake work. HELP US HELP YOU.

Response From deathwiz

the tires were rated for 100,000 miles and only lasted 13,000. Sorry for that typo. All 4 tires wore evenly. At first, the brakes wore more on the right ride of the car, so i replaced the brake caliper on the left thinking that it was faulty because it was not applying the brake pads. I haven't had to change the brakes again yet to see if that stopped the uneven wearing on the brakes. As a side note, the car only gets 17 mpg. Is that normal?

Response From Sidom

This is something you really need to be there to inspect the parts for yourself. As far as the tires go I didn't see anywhere where the OP said he rotated them and that is 101 for tire wear. 13k should be going on the 3rd rotate. You see it all the time on fwd cars, frt tires worn down to nothing and the rear tires still at 50% or more remaining...

As far as the brks go. The OP changed the wrong side if there is a wear problem. Then again you need to be there. If the outboard pad is worn then it's a slide problem, inboard and a caliper is sticking. If it's sticking bad enough to go thru that many sets of pads in that short of time I suppose it could kill the mpg & the engine would be in fuel control. I suppose you could look at the engine load % and it would be higher than normal

Like I said a problem like this, you really need to be there to inspect ALL the tires, brks & suspension or at a minimum at least see pictures of the components in question

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Listed MPG rating by EPA...........
2011 Chrysler 200 3.6 L, 6 cyl, Automatic 6-spd, Regular Gasoline or E85 Gas 19
City 22
Combined 29
Not Available $2,400
per year E85 14
City 16
Combined 21
Highway $3,050
per year


What is with 100,000 mile rated tires? Could be something new but what is the "treadwear" rating? That # is not the # of miles but rather the legal treadwear life compared to another #. Ratings are for anything from nothing to about 800. Basically that just means a #200 should last double what a #100 should under same circumstances not a mileage #.

You said you don't but sure sounds for about a 2 year old with 30,000 miles you are beating the hell out of it,


Response From Hammer Time

The problem with treadwear ratings is that they are determined by the manufacturer themselves and are completely unreliable because they are used more for marketing than truth.

Response From Discretesignals

Something isn't adding up here. Even tire wire, so that means no alignment problems. Threads worn to limits at 13,000 miles. 4 sets of brakes under 30,000 miles. If the brakes were hanging you would notice a pull or smoking wheel. If brake balance was uneven, there would be a steering pull during braking.

If the car was getting 17 mpg on non E85 and driven conservatively, the check engine light would be on or the fuel trims would be near or over limits.

Everything is adding up to driver abuse unless this vehicle is used on a postal route.

brake problem help

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on brake problem help

I replaced the brake pads on my 01 Chrysler minivan one week ago. They worked fine for a week and then yesterday my brake pedal got mushy and the front brake pads started to smell as if they were burning. What could have happened.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Pull the wheels again and see if there is any fluid leaking out on the rotors. if not, bleed the system and see if it helps any. Brakes are not anything to mess with. It can literaslly be life or death.

Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

Showing 4 out of 11 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From gstst4 on Brake caliber - 2010 Chrysler town & country

I have a 2010 Chrysler town & country 3.8 with 62000 miles. I am having rear brake problems. I had humming at high speeds and smelling of burning brakes on the passenger side. Then as time passed it switched to the driver's side. Changed brake pads and passenger side rotor which had wear grooves. Everything seemed fine for about a month. Now the sound is back along with the smell back on the passenger's side. I've read that it could be the guide pins causing the sticking brakes, or could it be the caliber?

Response From jzr

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair. In other words promising Nordstrom on a 7-11 budget. Forget all the spilled milk discussions here. Get higher grade materials all around - Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors, Ceramic pads, heavier duty calipers and your nightmare will be over. YOU have to re-engineer the solution. After review of all the "advice" (okay), it will never resolve your problem, which is actually based on figuring out what is going to break next because of "UNPREDICTABLE" results engineering from Chrysler. Correction, what is PREDICTABLE is that this engineering is calculated to fail in the short term. If you don't follow this advice you will constantly be trying to figure out "now what is wrong" with your brakes, besides trying to figure out why did I buy this engineered lemon.

Response From Discretesignals

This thread is more than a year old. Closed to prevent spamming or hijacking.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Bad design. Chrysler physicists paid to figure out half life of engineering materials that are fed into stochastic algorithms in order to determine future maintenance revenues on vehicle repair.

Wow, we got a real genius on our hands here.

I hear Chrysler is looking to hire more physicists to design their cars. Maybe you should apply.

You might want to find out what a physicist is first though. Maybe you could invent Nuclear drive.

Response From Discretesignals

Could be caliper, seized guide pins, faulty brake hose, parking brake is on, and/or parking brake cables are seized causing something like that. Did you lubricate the slide pins when you had it apart?

Response From gstst4

I'll grease the guide pins first before I do anything and check everything over.

Response From Discretesignals

Make sure the pins slide back and forth when you remove the caliper. If they do, then remove them and put some brake grease on them.

Inspect the caliper parking brake arm on the caliper before you remove the caliper and make sure it is all the way released.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, lube with proper lube every time. Also - do something to one side do the same to the other. You said you just did passenger pads and rotor - not so good an idea and doesn't save anything in the long run,


Response From gstst4

No I did replace the padson both sides, but only replaced the rotor on the right side. Lubricated the guide pins. Mind you the smell of the brakes and hot wheel is not constant. It happens only at high speeds once in a while. Hopefully the grease will do the job. Any other suggestions welcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pins when lubed and good should just slide in your hands. What is harder to know if piston is intermittently sticking and about to freeze up or even flex hoses that can let pressure in but not out so that brake will drag if so.

Parking brake anything matters as well as I think this one uses a cam inside the caliper and is sprung to be off not applied and should retract to complete OFF. Wheels should spin free when hoisted with either rotor fastened or wheel back on. No drag.

If anytime you find one side of brake pads or shoes for drums worn more than the other side there's a problem to fix not just replace them pads and rotors even. Gotta find out why one was different - it's brakes - no games!

One thing that is real bad for brake caliper is if they get submersed in water for any reason. They really are NOT water tight and any moisture between dust boot/seal can easily corrode piston or caliper wall and ruin them but cute as that happens much later than right before they get dunked if so, not just road spray from driving in the rain for instance,


Response From gstst4

No I'm sure I didn't. I feel I should just replace the caliber. That parking brake is tricky to deal with. I think that's the hardest part replacing the caliber besides bleeding the brakes after.