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Beck Arnley
1988 Acura Legend Disc Brake Pad - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-0338D00    082-1313  New

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Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • PREMIUM ORGANIC; Original Equipment Type Pad Material
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1988 - Acura Legend Sedan Rear

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 Acura Mdx Tranny Issues

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From DerrickJames on 2001 Acura Mdx Tranny Issues

Hello I have a 2001 Acura Mdx that was running fine for a few months once first purchased used. Having issues with transmission e.g. Hesitant sometimes when switching between 1-2 gears, wouldn't go in reverse, truck shakes randomly at different speeds, when very hot brakes lose pressure almost pedal to floor when braking. Started doing research on issue and found out about recalls, contacted Acura dealership. Acura said that MDX had already been serviced for that recall and unless the car didn't run I would have to pay for labor and tranny replacement of about $5,000.00. I just recently purchased the vehicle so I definitely did not do the repair from Acura. For one I know for a fact they didn't even look at the transmission to see if there was any discoloration or gear chipping. They looked up system check tool read the code and said yea you just have to replace the transmission. After that driving Mdx daily problems started to fade with no work done to tranny, then months later started up again. Took it to local mechanic and told them I wanted to price how much it would be to buy and replace tranny, after having truck several hours they called me back and said the error code is pin-pointing solenoid a and b, said tranny and gears were fine just needs solenoid a - b replaced. I said okay about two to three days later they call back and said that solenoid a and b were replaced but did not fix issue then immediately said I'll just need tranny replacement. I've just recently had my front lower control arm, brake pads and rotors replaced. Now having shaking/vibration in steering wheel at speeds above 60 mph. Thinking about replacing tranny control module, torque converter, and adding super oil cooler or should I just purchase rebuilt/reman tranny? And if you say just purchase rebuilt/reman tranny should it be from same year because I'm worried that they will have same issues? Any help or new insight on this issue would be greatly appreciated, I have a family and I don't want my MDX to lock up on me since the Acura dealership doesn't care our safety. I have a 2001 Acura MDX v6 3.5 engine with about 149K miles....Please help!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Which trouble code numbers are showing up? I don't think you should go replacing the trans control module unless you know it is bad. If it is being diagnosed as a faulty transmission, your best bet is to have a reman installed or have a transmission shop go through it.

My front wheel feels like it's going to fall out & makes squeaky noises

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Swankins on My front wheel feels like it's going to fall out & makes squeaky noises

I've been hearing squeaky noises coming from my front wheel for two weeks now. But it only happens randomly, like 1-2 times during day, usually when I get out of work. When it does come up, it usually make a loud squeaky noise when I drive slow or make a turn.

Now all of a sudden, I feel like the wheels are loose and are going to come off. I can feel my right front wheel vibrating and it makes a noise like it has a flat tire.

Is it because of the brake pads or something more expensive to repair?


Forgot my car's specs.

Acura TL 2.5 1996
Mileage: 135k KM

Response From Swankins Top Rated Answer

I brought it to the shop today and they changed both front Rotors for $82.44 and $60 dollars labor cost. They said the bolts somewhere in the right rotor broke because it was rusty. But I think I should change my back rotors soon also, they are as rusty as the old front rotors.

Now everything is better, thank god.

Response From DanD

The pricing sounds fair and if you or they suspect the rear; I wouldn’t hesitate to replace them as well.

Response From DanD

Something like this question should be asked at whatever garage you decide to take this car to. Yes it could be brakes, yes it could be a wheel bearing and yes it could be something in the suspension or steering. All of these are safely related items; get them checked or park the vehicle. After it has been checked by whomever post back here with their findings; we then could maybe confirm their diagnosis or challenge it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This is not a computer fix. Get this fixed as Dan said right away and if need be tow it. Please be and stay safe, T

bad axel/bearing - 2000 Caddilac STS - nyc potholes?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jfish1000 on bad axel/bearing - 2000 Caddilac STS - nyc potholes?

I drive a 2000 Caddilac STS which I inherited from my grandfather.

It doesn't seem fit to ride the roads of Brooklyn and NYC - with all the bad roads and potholes we have.

I have new tires on the car, Kumho, Sears installed. wheels and rest of car original, and low mileage - only about 40K.

Don't drive it much, 2-3K per year, but on bad NYC roads.

I now have twice had to replace on the left front tire the bearings and axel, as well as both rotors and brake pads.

The shop claims it's from potholes, or hitting a sidewalk curb, which I can't recall doing either, but the car does ride on pretty rough pavement a lot of the time.

Is this something that can be caused from driving on rough pavement?

Is it crazy to get the exact same repair needed on the exact same wheel, in a 2 year period when I"ve driving only about 3K miles in total on it?

Is there a type of car better for bad NYC roads? Like a small SUV, maybe an Audi Q5 or an Acura MDX? Toyota RAV4?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I've never heard of a pothole damaging brakes or an axle or even a wheel bearing. I think your getting the New york fast shuffle.

Brake pulsation. Do I need new rotors? Bed-In?

Showing 5 out of 9 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From hitesthonda on Brake pulsation. Do I need new rotors? Bed-In?

2004 Acura TSX, Automatic, 35K Miles

I was forced to go to the hateful, cheating, lying, robbing dealer due to the April 2013 ECM/PCM corroson recall; NHTSA Recall 13V-093.
While it was there I had them do NY state inspection. They said that there were bubbles in the brake fluis and I needed a Brake Fluid flush for $169. Although it probably wasn't necessary, I let them do this although my trusted local Honda/Acura specialist mechanic had done it a year before for $39.
When I got the car back, it was making an occasional rattle over rough pavement. I would also hear a loud squeal when I firts started driving the car and turned all the way left or right at low speed with my foot on the brake. The squeal went away after a few blocks but would come back after the car sat overnight. I brought it back to the dealer and even though these crooks told me that if they found anything they would have to charge me a $119 diagnosis fee, I went on a road test with the service supervisor. He heard the noise, put the car on the lift and told me that the rattle was from some some brake dust shield needed to be adjusted. He said the squeal was probably from rust forming on the rotors.

The squeal cintinued to get worse so I went to my trusty, local guy (Lake Town Motors in Amityvuille, NY). They checked everything out and also said the the squeal was from rust on the rotors and would go away after I braked a few times and would not cause any problems for the pads or brakes. They said the only way to get rid of it was to replace the rotors.


I used the car a few times and the squeal seemed to have gone away. I took 2 long trips and now when I brake hard coming downhill, I have a moderately bad pulsation in the brake pedal. This doesn't happen except in hard braking and may not always happen. This is something that never happened before. After doing some web research and talking to another experiences Honda/Acura mechanic, I have been told that I need to replace the rotors and pads.

Is replacing the rotors and pads a difficult job? I have an experienced guy with his own garage who is willing to do the job but am a little leary since it's the braking system.

Should I replace or reface the rotors? Most web sites I have found say to replace the rotors. They say turning/cutting them will only temporarily resolve the pulsation problem and it will return. I have also heard the opposite-That repalcing will only solve the problem temporarily.

Has anyone used the Duralast Gold CM (Part DGC787) and Duralast Rotors (Part 31275) from AutoZone? I have read mostly good things about these parts but some not-so-good.

Is it a must to bed-in the pads? (Do a web search for 'bed-in brake pads' if you don't know what this is. This seems to require 10 stops from 60mph down to 10mph and then a cooling period. Since I live in Manhattan, I don't know where I can do this.

Could the Acura dealer have done something while doing the State inspection or flushing the brakes to have caused either of these issues?

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, it's a relatively easy job to replace the pads and rotors.
Yes, you are correct about it only being a temp fix to resurface when you already have a pulsation.
Yes, I have uses the Autozone parts and they are decent.
Just drive normally after they are replaced. Now, I mean normally for the average person. I suspect that because you already warped a set of rotors that you may be a bit aggressive with your braking style. None of that at first.
No, the dealer didn't cause this. The driver likely did.

Response From hitesthonda Top Rated Answer

Thanks Hammer. I appreciate your very helpful response. I will get the new rotors and pads this week.
Also very glad to know I don't have to bed-in the pads.
I will be more careful braking and be sure I don't keep my foot on the brakes at full stop after hard braking.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't keep my foot on the brakes at full stop after hard braking.

That's not at all what i said. It's the hard braking in the first place that you want to avoid. Extreme heat to the rotors is what ruins them and the break in period for the pads should see no extreme braking, just normal driving.

Response From hitesthonda

Thanks Hammer; Point taken. I will do as you suggest and try to avoid hard braking. Thanks.
What I was referring to is the result of my web research that suggests that the cause of the pulsation is hard braking followed by a complete stop with your foot on the brake causing a pad imprint on the rotor commonly diagnosed as warped rotors.

Links deleted ......... not allowed

Do you have any suggestions as to the best rotors and pads to get for a 2004 Acura TSX? (Something that might be better than the AutoZone)
Do you feel that slotted or drilled rotors are better?
Does my pulsation problem suggest that I need only front pads/rotors or rear too?

Response From Hammer Time

First off, links are not allowed. Read the FORUM RULES.

Second, I don't care what some unqualified fool writes in a blog. I've been doing this for over 50 years. I guarantee I can warp your rotors instantly by making a hard sudden stop from highway speed and then hitting a puddle. Extreme heat and rapid cooling is what warps rotors and yes, they can be warped.

Response From Discretesignals

hateful, cheating, lying, robbing dealer

How did they do these things? They performed the recall and sold you a brake flush. If you didn't like the price of the brake flush or thought it didn't needed one, why didn't you go to your mechanic or get another estimate or opinion?

Response From hitesthonda

Hey Discrete: They are clearly trained to sell you things you don't need and charge ridiculous markups. Once you are in, you are a captive audience.
Most people don't really have the time to run around with their car for 2nd opinions.
They make like if you don't do your repairs there or buy a new car once your warranty runs out, you will be hurtin' for certain.
fyi-They also over-filled the oil by .75 to 1 inch over dipstick max fill and then told me that it wouldn't cause any harm to my car.
Really! Google 'will overfill oil damage car' for more info.
Do you work for a dealer? Are you a fan of the dealer?

Response From Discretesignals

Dealer salespeople are trained to sell cars. Dealer mechanics are trained to diagnose and repair cars and trucks. The dealer is going to use factory parts and factory trained technicians to repair vehicles. They have all the special tools and equipment to work on your make of vehicle, so you are going to pay more because it costs the dealership a lot of money to support that kind of environment.

You don't have to buy anything from them. You have the right to get a second opinion. You have the right to look for a better price. You were just too lazy to do that and now your bitching about it and telling everyone that dealership techs are a bunch of con artists.

I know a lot of honest people that work at dealerships. People just like you and me trying to makes ends meet. I worked at two dealerships and neither of them trained me to ripped people off. You have absolutely no clue unless you walk in their shoes.

FYI: 3/4 to 1 inch over the max mark won't damage your engine.