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We stock Brake Booster parts for most Mini models, including Cooper, Cooper Countryman.

ATE
2008 Mini Cooper Power Brake Booster ATE

P311-0731631    W0133-1820231  New

Qty:
$205.52
ATE Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Must also replace (3) x 07 11 9 904 295 hex nuts
Brand: ATE
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2008 - Mini Cooper Convertible
TRW
2007 Mini Cooper Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$458.79
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with DSC (Dynamic Stability Control - S210A) : Must also replace (2) x 07 12 9 906 196 hex nuts and (1) x 34 33 6 770 915 gasket
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2007 - Mini Cooper Hatchback
TRW
2012 Mini Cooper Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$458.79
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Must also replace (2) x 07 12 9 906 196 hex nuts and (1) x 34 33 6 770 915 gasket
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Mini Cooper
TRW
2016 Mini Cooper Countryman Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$458.79
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2016 - Mini Cooper Countryman S ALL4
TRW
2013 Mini Cooper Countryman Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$458.79
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • To 11/2012
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2013 - Mini Cooper Countryman S ALL4
TRW
2013 Mini Cooper Countryman Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$458.79
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • From 11/2012
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2013 - Mini Cooper Countryman S ALL4
TRW
2008 Mini Cooper Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$458.79
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/31/2008, with DSC (Dynamic Stability Control - S210A) : Must also replace (2) x 07 12 9 906 196 hex nuts and (1) x 34 33 6 770 915 gasket
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Prod. Date Range
2008 - Mini Cooper Hatchback To:08-31-08
TRW
2008 Mini Cooper Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$458.79
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/01/2008-, Must also replace (2) x 07 12 9 906 196 hex nuts and (1) x 34 33 6 770 915 gasket
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Prod. Date Range
2008 - Mini Cooper Hatchback Fr:09-01-08

Latest Mini Repair and Brake Booster Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Ford Explorer 4.0L 114,550 miles, code # P2195 need some help

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mes4888 on 2003 Ford Explorer 4.0L 114,550 miles, code # P2195 need some help

Hey all,

My POS SUV is giving me this code, it is a bank 1 O2 sensor 1 stuck lean. This is the passenger side. Now here are the symptoms:

- When i come to a hard stop the motor will drag down then rev up and chug forward.
- When cruising at any speed (40-75) the car will start chugging, no change in RPM seen, but will keep doing this till i let off and get back on the throttle, almost like it is loading up and then clearing out
- At times i will push the accelerator and the RPMs will rise but lacks power and suddenly i will get power, like a cylinder wasn't firing.
- and this is unrelated but whats the best to check and test door sensors, i just had my door ajar light come on and stay on, and trust me i have checked every door and gate lock pawl and assembly.


So i have done some research and come up with this to check:
- Intake manifold leak
- Broken/damaged vacuum hose
- Bad brake booster (really?)
- Damage to air intake hose
- Exhaust leak

Now if any techs could point me in the right directions and some good methods of testing for the above i would really appreciate it. Another question for the testing aspect, would some starting fluid sprayed around the intake manifold gasket, while running, find my problem or is this just a trick that i should keep to the 2 strokes in the shop?


Thanks,
Matt

Response From ishootu

Hello,

just wanted to know if you have your situation corrected yet? I have an 03 with the 4.6 liter engine. same DTC code. Most of the time this car runs excellent, smooth idle, smooth accelleration. I will get the chugging at 50-65 mph. or after hard braking. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and checked all of the vacuum hoses carefully since they all come off to do the job. no issues with hoses. I did notice some oily residue from the back side of the throttle body down into the top part of the intake manifold. Normal for a car with 110,000 miles? I am thinking maybe my O2 sensor is fouled from running rich for a while so I am going to try that next.
Any other input would be appreciated.

Thanks

David

Response From Hammer Time

If you would like some help with your car, you should start a new question. We don't like to address more than one vehicle in a single thread.

Response From ishootu

Sorry, and thanks. I am a newbie to this board.

Response From Sidom

Got some good advise going on already I'll just add a couple more points....

I'm not sure what tools you have available but if your scanner can give you a data stream & freeze frame data on the code, that would really help you narrow your search..... You want to look the fuel trims... In a nutshell this is what the comp is doing to compensate for a problem. A rule of thumb +20% will set a lean code, -20% will set a rich code.

1st thing would be to test the O2 with propane enrichment to make sure it's working. Add propane and it should go full rich then full lean within 100ms and then start switching.

Look at the freeze frame data and see what the speed was when the code set. If it was idle or low speed then your on the right track with a vacuum leak. If it was at high speed then you are looking at a fuel supply problem, i.e plugged fuel filter, weak pump, etc.

One other quick note if the code is setting in open loop on start up look real careful at the plenum gasket.........

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

You could use the starting fluid but I would recommend something less volatile like carb cleaner. Do this on a cold engine, watch what you spray it on and don't get too crazy with it. No need to make a mini Hiroshima in the garage, and you would look pretty goofy with no eyebrows. As to your confusion about a brake booster being able to cause this, remember that it uses engine vacuum to give power assist to your brakes. If it failed it would leak vacuum as surely as an intake gasket would. Have you tried first just listening to the running engine for the vacuum leak? If bad enough you would be able to hear it.