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We stock Brake Booster parts for most International models, including 1000C, 1000D, 1754, 1854, 1954, 3000, 3000RE, 3400, 3600, 3700, 3800, 3900FC, 4600LP, 4600UH, S1753, S1754, S1853, S1853FC, S1854, S1954, 4600, 4700, 4700LP, 4800, 4900, 7100.


Cardone
1989 International S1754 Power Brake Booster Cardone - Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster

P311-27A9D97    52-9805  Remanufactured

2501588C91

Qty:
$49.50 95.57
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • with Bendix Brake Booster with Dual System Hydro-Max - Hydraulic Section without Master Cylinder
  • Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • E-Waste: Yes
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability.
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance.
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life.
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function.
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Quick And Easy Installation.
      • Remanufactured To Match O.e. Performance.
    • First Application Year: 1988
    • Master Cylinder Included: No
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: 3/8 X 16
    • Material: Aluminum
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Power Brake Boosters are re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. Original designs are scrutinized for potential improvement and, where applicable, design upgrades are implemented to produce a more durable part than the original. All units are 100% tested to ensure perfect fit and function.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - International S1754
Cardone
1988 International 1954 Power Brake Booster Cardone - Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster

P311-27A9D97    52-9805  Remanufactured

2501588C91

Qty:
$49.50 95.57
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • with Bendix Brake Booster with Hydro-Max Brake System without Master Cylinder
  • Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • E-Waste: Yes
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability.
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance.
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life.
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function.
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Quick And Easy Installation.
      • Remanufactured To Match O.e. Performance.
    • First Application Year: 1988
    • Master Cylinder Included: No
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: 3/8 X 16
    • Material: Aluminum
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Power Brake Boosters are re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. Original designs are scrutinized for potential improvement and, where applicable, design upgrades are implemented to produce a more durable part than the original. All units are 100% tested to ensure perfect fit and function.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - International 1954
Cardone
1992 International 3600 Power Brake Booster Cardone - Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster

P311-4EB2FAA    52-9917  Remanufactured

BX2771659

Qty:
$36.00 122.01
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • with Bendix Brake Booster with Hydro-Max Brake System with 10" Pedal Rod without Master Cylinder
  • Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • E-Waste: Yes
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability.
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance.
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life.
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function.
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Quick And Easy Installation.
      • Remanufactured To Match O.e. Performance.
    • First Application Year: 1990
    • Master Cylinder Included: No
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: 3/8 X 16
    • Material: Aluminum
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Power Brake Boosters are re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. Original designs are scrutinized for potential improvement and, where applicable, design upgrades are implemented to produce a more durable part than the original. All units are 100% tested to ensure perfect fit and function.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - International 3600
Cardone
1992 International 4600LP Power Brake Booster Cardone - Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster

P311-27A9D97    52-9805  Remanufactured

2501588C91

Qty:
$49.50 95.57
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • with Bendix Brake Booster with Hydro-Max Brake System with 7-1/2" Pedal Rod without Master Cylinder
  • Hydro-Boost Power Brake Booster
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • E-Waste: Yes
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability.
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance.
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life.
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function.
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Quick And Easy Installation.
      • Remanufactured To Match O.e. Performance.
    • First Application Year: 1988
    • Master Cylinder Included: No
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: 3/8 X 16
    • Material: Aluminum
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Power Brake Boosters are re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. Original designs are scrutinized for potential improvement and, where applicable, design upgrades are implemented to produce a more durable part than the original. All units are 100% tested to ensure perfect fit and function.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - International 4600LP
Centric
1970 International 1000D Power Brake Booster Centric - Centric Power Brake Boosters

P311-4D74936    160.80006  Remanufactured

Qty:
$94.00 145.92
Centric Power Brake Booster
  • Centric Power Brake Booster
  • ; 6 1/2" Thickness Rod Code CT4
  • Most complete aftermarket booster program with over 1;000 applications cataloged; Includes both vacuum and hydraulic units; Each booster is completely inspected; rebuilt and tested to ensure proper fit and function
  • Centric Power Brake Boosters
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attribute ID (Type): California Proposition 65
    • Booster Type: Vacuum
    • Brake Pedal Rod Extension Included: Yes
  • Centric Parts full line of remanufactured brake boosters includes both vacuum and hydraulic units. Each booster is completely inspected; rebuilt and tested to ensure proper fit and function. With over 1;000 applications cataloged; Centric's booster program is the most complete in the aftermarket.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1970 - International 1000D Travelall

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1971 Chevy Truck brakes slow to stop

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From xprmntl1 on 1971 Chevy Truck brakes slow to stop

1971
Chevy Truck
4x4
350C.I.
199,999

I have replaced: Master Cylinder, front brake pads(disc), booster valve, all new brake lines front to back even rubber lines to calipers.

Differentials are from a 1991 Suburban 4wd, using prop. valve and booster from my 4wd 1971.

I have a very firm pedal, have to use excessive force to get truck to stop, cant get brakes to lockup on grass or gravel, not sure if booster is my problem. I pulled vacuum hose loose from booster while truck is running and rpm's dont drop, but if I block off hose with my finger rpm's drop. Could my booster have an internal leak? I changed the blockoff valve that mountes to front of booster also.

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Shut the truck off, pump the brake pedal a couple times to exhaust all vacuum. Now hold firm pressure on the brake pedal while starting the truck and watch for the pedal to drop. If it does, the booster is working.

Response From xprmntl1

Ok, I did as you said and the pedal most definitely did not drop at all. So the booster is the problem? Also, with the booster not working properly or at all will I not be able to lock the brakes up with enough force? Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, that is the whole purpose of the booster. It increases the brake pressure.

Make sure you have a good vacuum supply going to it from direct manifold vacuum.

Response From xprmntl1

Do trucks with discs and no power brake booster have the same feel as mine?

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know. I've never seen a truck with Disc brakes and no power in the last 30 years.

Response From xprmntl1

Thanks for your help guys

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

"Do trucks with discs and no power brake booster have the same feel as mine?"

No. Vehicles without power assisted brakes or steering used to just increase the leverage for brakes and steering wheels were larger with more turns stop to stop of the wheel. They drove fine but a pain - had a few. I don't think much of anything short of a lawn tractor doesn't do power assist anymore for a long time now,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check the booster is getting full intake manifold vacuum and what the real intake manifold vacuum is.

Other maybe: There's a proportioning valve that may be involved?

T

Response From xprmntl1

I'm not sure what full vacuum is, but if I cover the hose with my finger it has pretty good suction? I was going to replace the prop. valve next, just didnt wanna keep throwing parts at this problem. Thanks!

Brake pedal fading to the floor

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Brake pedal fading to the floor

We recently purchase a 95 Honda Accord with 175K miles for our teenage daughter. When she was stopped at a light (facing downhill) and the brake pedal began to fade, it eventually it faded to the floor and she bumped into the car in front of her (she said she had noticed, once in a while when sitting a red light, the car would begin to creep forward, but she would just apply alittle more pressure to the brake and the car would stop).
We brought the car to a mechanic, but he can't find anything wrong with it. He said there no leaks in the lines or master cylinder. He said that if there were any problems with the MC or lines, the issue with the pedal fading to the floor would happen all the time (and not just be an intermittent problem).
Is there something he is missing? Is there an electrical malfunction that would cause this to happen?

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

its the master cylinder that needs replacement-has an internal failure.if pedal fades to the floor and there are no leaks found and pedal can be pumped back up -its the master cylinder-you didn't say if it has power brakes or not ,i assume it does....but sometimes when it fails,you will get brake fluid into the brake booster.
replace the master cylinder and bleed the system well
car should be fixed.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That is so textbook common that you really should question the ability of that mechanic. If you even came close to describing that it's about as close to 100% as you get that the MC is bad! NO - they don't necessarily do it all the time when it first starts or it can be trashed without notice. This person didn't warn you not to drive the car?

T

Response From Guest

The car does have power brakes (also ABS). From what I've read from other sources it seems like it would be the mc. Not knowing much about cars, we are deferring to what our mechanic is telling us.
He is driving the car for a few days to see if he can duplicate the problem (there's no way we'd let our daughter use the car until its fixed).
So it is possible for the brakes to work fine, then fade to floor, then work fine again (at least for a while)?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Granted you can never say 100% sure of much of anything and YES ABS system can cause unwanted brake pedal fade when it thinks a wheel is skidding. This about can't happen when already stopped as all the wheels are spinning at the same speed which is NOT Spinning. It would have to think one was and the others were not which I suppose is possible. A failure with ABS should set off a light on dash and default to regular braking action.

When just staying stopped - hill or not when you feel a good pedal fall to floor it's almost always the MC. I've never seen otherwise with no leaks demostrated or very low brake fluid level which should cause alarm as to why it is so low.

When power brakes lose power assist the pedal would be hard and you would have to push real hard to get close to the same braking force.

This fading can do it once in a while or just once and stay behaving that way. But notice that once and you don't fool around with it. It doesn't get a second chance. Cars sold in the US new as of 1967 model year have to separate brakes so that you should have some braking action (not much) if there was a complete hydraulic failure in the system and typically front brakes are separated from rear brakes. This should trigger the red brake warning light which may reset the first time or two or go out when brakes aren't used and if the problem is in remission could stay out.

Just your subject line is enough to warrant replacement of the MC with no other cause (leak etc) found. If that wasn't it, it was still responsible work to toss it for a new one. They aren't all that expensive for most cars and this is a lousy place to conserve $ with a warning like that.

Your call,

T

Response From Guest

I agree, brake problems are not something to be ignored. We'll probably just go ahead and replace the MC (as you said, its not all the pricey).
Our biggest concern is that we replace the MC then have our daughter drive off thinking the problem is fixed only to find out the hard way it was something else.
We'll give our mechanic a few days to drive it around, see if he can get it to happen. If he's still convinced we don't need a new MC but can't offer up any other cause for the problem, we'll go somewhere else for a second opinion.

Thanks for your time and info.

front brake

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on front brake

i have a 94 gmc half ton pickup the drivers side brake was dragging then would almost lock up. so i replaced the caliper and the bolts and sleeves the bolts slide in and still having the same problem . it will do fine for a while and then gradually build up pressure and start dragging .i let it set overnight and its okay for a while the next day . any thoughts or suggestions?

Response From Guest

thanks i will give that a try

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Usually when this occurs its the caliper and or guides/sleeves,which you replaced, and /or the rubber brake hoses to the front caliper(s).
The hoses restrict/collapse internally and wont let the fluid return.
Simple way to check ,when its dragging/binding,crack open the bleeder on the caliper and if the fluid shoots out and it frees up,thats it.
You should have noticed something when bleeding after replacing the caliper.
It is recommended to replace both front hoses if thats the failure.

There was someone on here recently with a foreign car that had a similar concern that turned out to be a faulty brake booster.
I personally have never replaced a booster on a gm vehicle for one wheel locking up.
Usually always is the caliper or brake hose.
My money is on the hose.

See what the others say
Good luck
Jim

Response From dave284

Jim's right, the brake hoses over time collapse or start to brake down leaving pieces of the rubber lining in the fluid and stopping up the pin size hole in the caliber.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


The brake hoses can fail like a "Reed Valve" shown square above and a flap of rubber allows pressure to pass thru to apply brake as in the arrows shown but then can't return so that brake stays applied. It then gets warm and expands applying more braking force. When all cooled down fluid contracts and may behave which is just another means to cause hair loss in auto repair.

As Jim said. If you just crack open the bleeder a tad the dragging wheel will free right up if this is in fact happening which it almost certainly is,

T

99 Merc Cougar

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From prop7515 on 99 Merc Cougar

99 Cougar 2.5L codes p0171 & po174 checked for vacuum leaks at intake manifold, none present. Any ideas? Any known problems that would give these codes?

Response From way2old

Also check the Mass Air Flow sensor. If the hot wire is dirty, it will give a false air intake reading and cause the PCM to over compensate the fuel mixture. It is easily cleaned. Just be careful not to damage the wires inside. They are very fragile. Do as DanD suggested first. Then look at the MAF. There is a hertz reading that tells the vehicle the altitude. You will also need a scan tool capable of reading PIDS to access this information. Good luck.

Sorry, did not look at the original post date.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't worry about how old a post is. Folks are surfing for info that we never hear about and get the answers they need. It really helps when people post the make of the car on the subject line for others to find. T

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

With both these codes relating to both banks being lean and the adaptive fuel trim has reached it’s limits in trying to richen up the mixture. It has to be something that is common to all cylinders. Like you mentioned a vacuum leak, stuck EGR valve, low fuel pressure and the list goes on. It could be an internal vacuum leak as in the intake manifold gasket is sucked out and is drawing vacuum from the crankcase. Fords use to be bad for the power brake booster having internal vacuum leaks.
How does the car run?
It’s not likely both banks 1 and 2, O2 sensors have gone dead but you never know whether something has contaminated your fuel to kill both sensors.
I don’t know if you have access to a scan tool, which would be the easiest way to monitor O2 activity, if not a digital voltmeter will work. By back probing the signal return wire of the sensors one at a time and see what the sensors are doing. Cause a lean condition by pulling off a large vacuum line or a rich condition by restricting incoming air at the breather; see if the O2 react to these changes you’ve forced the engine to go to. The voltages should swing from .1 to about .9 of a volt; .9 is a lean indication and the computer should be dumping fuel to compensate and .1 of a volt is a rich indication and the computer should be pulling fuel away to lean the engine out. If everything is “normal” the voltage should be toggling above and the below .450 volts.
I believe the white wire on the right bank O2 connector is signal return and the white/red wire on the left bank. These are the O2’s that are in the manifolds. I use something like a paper clip or safety pin the back probe the wire connector. Carefully slide the probe up the back of the connector beside the wire until you touch the metal terminal inside the connector. Then hook up the voltmeter to the probe and a known good ground.
Dan.

Still smoking after complete rebuild

Showing 2 out of 26 Posts | Show 24 Hidden Posts
Question From drivewaymech on Still smoking after complete rebuild

I've been working on a 1988 Chevrolet C1500 with a 4.3 Vortec engine for about six months now and did almost a complete rebuild replacing almost every internal part of the engine except for the cam shaft and piston rods. I also had a machine shop hone out the cylinders to .030 over spec, and replaced the pistons and rings accordingly. They also did some other work to ensure no head gasket leakage, rebuilt the cylinder heads and tested it for compression.

Now, after six months of work, three tear-down and rebuilds, and a couple thousand dollars in parts, the #2 and #4 combustion chambers still have oil leaking into them. The problem seems to only occur under a load (when driving, not when parked). After driving for a little while, the truck starts to smoke. Then I remove the #2 and #4 plugs and they are covered in oil. There seems to be a significant amount of oil in the #2 and #4 combustion chambers.
I know of only two ways that oil can enter into the combustion chamber.

1. Oil seepage past the piston rings.
2. Through the valves from the top-end of the heads.

If anyone has any insight into this, please help!

Response From Discretesignals

What happened to the engine to warrant an overhaul? Did it have the same problem your having now?

I believe you are spot on in stating that ring or guide problems can cause that. I don't believe a PCV system problem would cause only two cylinders to have excessive oil. Appears you might have to tear down, inspect, and measure again to see what is going on.

Response From drivewaymech


What happened to the engine to warrant an overhaul? Did it have the same problem your having now?

I believe you are spot on in stating that ring or guide problems can cause that. I don't believe a PCV system problem would cause only two cylinders to have excessive oil. Appears you might have to tear down, inspect, and measure again to see what is going on.

Response From drivewaymech

My fault. It was supposed to be under the quoted section...

It was pretty much doing the same thing as now, except worse. When I first got the truck, the #1 and 3 valve lifter rods were broken. I had a head job done at the machine shop, which checked the valve seals.

After the head job, I put it together and it was still smoking, and I determined that to be the #2 and 4 cylinders. I did a resurfacing job on the cylinders myself and put it back together... same problem, smoking, and oil in #2 and 4.

Response From Discretesignals

Have you been adding brake fluid to the master?

You could put a homemade catch can in the PCV line just to see if the smoking stops and the can is collecting a bunch of oil. That would eliminate a PCV system problem. The only way the PCV system could be sucking that much oil is if you have a whole lot of blow by or there is a problem with the valve cover baffle.

Another thing that comes to mind is if the oil is being sucked up into the intake runner from the lifter valley where the head and intake meet . You would have a vacuum leak under the intake. You could find out by installing a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube and then blocking off the PCV valve and breather hose. If your gauge builds up vacuum, you have a leak under the intake.

Response From drivewaymech

Is the valve cover baffle supposed to have something in it to prevent oil from escaping?

I just ran the engine to operating temperature in my garage again. No smoke from exhaust (although it smells bad). Pulled #2 spark plug afterward, and ther eis no oil on it.

If I were to drive it down the street a ways and come back, it would be smoking huge plmes of white smoke, and the #2 and 4 plugs would be coated in black sticky carbon-oil mixture.

Response From drivewaymech

Thank you for your reply, but actually, they were. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Vortec_engine

Response From Hammer Time

Thank you for your reply, but actually, they were. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Vortec_engine

I'm afraid you are wrong. The Vortec (VIN W) was not offered in the C1500 truck in 1988. The TBI 4.3 was the only V6 available in that year.

Response From drivewaymech



Thank you for your reply, but actually, they were. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Vortec_engine

I'm afraid you are wrong. The Vortec (VIN W) was not offered in the C1500 truck in 1988. The TBI 4.3 was the only V6 available in that year.


Ok, I don't know if it is or is not a Vortec. COme to think of it, I think you are right. It doesn't say "Vortec" anywhere on it.


Response From Hammer Time

Calling it a Vortec will get you a lot of wrong parts.

Response From drivewaymech

That would explain a lot.

I have found another issue that may have something to do with my issue. The Vacuum Modulator Assembly, which has a vacuum line that goes from the right hand side of the transmission to the top of the intake manifold directly over the #2 and 4 pistons, has transmission fluid in it.

This could explain why the smoking only happens while in Drive.

Response From Discretesignals

Yep, that would cause smoking and loss of transmission fluid. You must have the 3 speed turbo 400 option.

Response From drivewaymech

All it says on the tranny is "Hydromatic DIV OF GMC"

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good find with the trans vacuum modulator. Hope you have filled trans fluid to proper level.


You said it sounds like crap and NO that's not normal. You should pull the plugs just because to see if the ATF messed them up.
Noises a pest by nature. Does it sound external to you? It might be loose things, brackets holding any accessories or exhaust noise from any where, heat shields or just a lousy connection(s) from "Y" pipe to exhaust manifold or a crack in a manifold?
Some things that help it take belt off and see just quickly if the noise is gone and spin items for a bad bearing. Other tricks up to tap on exhaust parts (cool engine) with a rubber hammer and loose things should show up.


If just plain RPMs at any load produce this noise and helps narrow it down,


T

Response From drivewaymech

So, I just replaced the Transmission Vacuum Modulator. I took it for a ride around the block, and NO SMOKE!!!

The engine, however still sounds really crappy. When it revs to a certain RPM, it sounds like it is going to fall apart. Is that normal for this type of engine?

Thank you all for your input. You have been a big help.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The baffle acts an oil vapor separator. If it gets plug up, the oil that gets separated can't drain back down into the head, so it gets sucked into the intake.

This is kind of rare, but if your engine is smoking and you keep having to add brake fluid. The master could be leaking into the vacuum brake booster causing the engine to suck in brake fluid.

Response From drivewaymech



Here is a you-tube of how the engine running after warm-up. The #2 spark plug was bone dry after this test. As I said before, the oil and smoke problem only occurs after driving on street.

Response From Discretesignals

Another thing that comes to mind is if you have a intake runner leak between the head and intake manifold sucking oil up from the lifter valley.

You would have a vacuum leak under the intake. You could find out if that is a problem by blocking off the PCV valve and breather and installing a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube. If the gauge builds a vacuum while the engine is idling, you have a leak under the intake as long as the rest of the engine gaskets are sealed up really good.

Response From drivewaymech

Ok. I removed the pcv hose from the valve and plugged the end with a spark plug. Then, because I couldn't find my vacuum gauge, I wet a finger and held it over the oil dipstick. I thought I could feel a small amount of vacuum sucking on my finger.

If this is the problem, is there a fix?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You bored this engine .030 over! What's the question? Engine is junk,


T

Response From drivewaymech

I put a new master cylinder on. Brake fluid level hasn't reduced since I did that job.

Response From Discretesignals

Then that isn't the problem. I would probably make a homemade catch can just too see how much oil is being collected in the PCV line and too see if the smoking stops.

If that doesn't work, you have a problem with the valve guides/seals or cylinder wall/ring issues.

Response From drivewaymech

I did do a brake job several moths ago, but what would that have to do with my oil in the #2 and 4 cylinders?

Response From nickwarner

You have an 88 with a Vortec motor? They didn't exist then. Is this a transplant from something newer or did you have a typo?

Response From drivewaymech

The reason I thought it was the PCV is because it sits directly over the two cylinders that I'm having the issue with.

Response From Discretesignals

You never answered my questions.