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We stock Alternator parts for most Smart models, including Fortwo.


WAI Global
2010 Smart Fortwo Alternator 3 Cyl 1.0L WAI Global

P311-09F180D    11565N  New

Qty:
176.79
  • ; Mits. IR/IF, 90 Amp
Brand: WAI Global
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Bosch
2012 Smart Fortwo Alternator 3 Cyl 1.0L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-3CCE71D    AL9378X  Remanufactured

1321540001

Qty:
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 90
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • Cases Per Pallet (ORLY): 100
    • External Fan Included: No
    • External Regulator Included: No
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Mi
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 7
    • Private Brand?: No
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 4
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 4s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 4s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Unit(s) per Car Qty (ORLY): 1
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
MPA
2008 Smart Fortwo Alternator 3 Cyl 1.0L MPA - Remanufactured

P311-05DEECC    10104  Remanufactured

A-132-154-00-01 , 132-154-00-01 , A5TG0991 , 11565 , 1800A052

Qty:
$48.00 116.97
MPA Alternator
  • Alternator Remanufactured
  • Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 90 Amps
    • Clock: 8:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Mitsubishi
    • Pulley: 4 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: Internal
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Remy
2011 Smart Fortwo Alternator 3 Cyl 1.0L Remy - Premium Remanufactured

P311-4C94F70    11132  Remanufactured

132-154-00-01 , A5TG0991

Qty:
$50.00 130.66
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; 90 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 90
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 7
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 4
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 54.1
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
BBB Industries
2006 Smart Fortwo Alternator 3 Cyl 0.8L BBB Industries - Premium Remanufactured

P311-1D3B044    11458  New

Qty:
$65.00 185.81
BBB Industries Alternator
  • ; 85 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 0.8L - 799

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 Ford Taurus not starting

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From willyg on 2001 Ford Taurus not starting

Hello all, this is a 3.0l OHV engine and I thought I had a bad alternator, so I purchased one (reman) online through ebay. Got the part yesterday, installed and seemed to run fine. Last night it went dead, lights flickering got it jumped and got it home just before it went dead again. I checked battery and it show 12 volts, also starter is clicking, probably that's shot also. I think they sold me a higher output alternator, I put my old alternator back in but the same thing. Should I replace the starter cause now it probably has a bad solenoid? Thanks for your help

Response From Hammer Time

Test for power at the main terminal of the alternator with the key OFF.
Do you have power?

Response From willyg

I'm not sure I know what you mean. The horn works, all lights work, the radio and all accessories work, so what exactly do I do with the alternator? The starter is not kicking over though. Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know how to make it clearer.

Go to the alternator and test for power at the large main terminal with the key off. Do you have power there?

Response From willyg Top Rated Answer

I'm sorry I'm not as smart with these things as youall are. I checked the alternator with a flukemeter and it showed 12.30 volts. Is that what you are referring to?

Response From Hammer Time

With the engine and key off, go to the alternator itself and locate the large, main output terminal. Put your positive meter lead on that terminal. Put the negative black lead of the meter on a ground. Does it read 12 volts?

Response From willyg

Yes it does! So what do you think the problem is?

Response From Hammer Time

You responded to that within 2 minutes. You could not have tested what I asked. I have better ways to waste my time and you can continue to waste your money.

Response From willyg

You must not have read my previous post where I said I checked it as you asked, and it read 12.30 volts. So I'm not wasting your time, but if you don't want to help me then fine. I'm just trying my best to figure this thing out

1973 dodge dart 318 engine wont cuttoff

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From rowem on 1973 dodge dart 318 engine wont cuttoff

i have a 1973 dodge dart car will not cuttoff with key switch have traced everything and replaced everything am at a lost can anyone please help. with switch off there is still power to switch, coil, relay, resistor and alternator even if the ignition switch harness is unplug????? new coil,alternator, resistor, ignition module,relay switch ignition switch andvoltage regulator just at dead end please help....am disabled homeland security officer and cant afford to pay someone..

Response From Hammer Time

Has someone added something to the car and tapped into the ignition feed to power it?

Response From rowem

just a cd player but its in the fuse panel you think its the cluster voltage regulator and or condensor on back of panel

Response From Hammer Time

Are you asking me?
No, I wouldn't suspect a dash cluster on that car. The cluster is powered by the ignition switch, not feeding it. Something would have to be feeding power back to the coil somehow.

Response From rowem

starter relay maybe cuz the wire from the battery goes straight to instrument cluster then to switch on this car thats original wiring even with key off coil resistor and voltage regulator all have power key switch and ignition switch is new

Response From Hammer Time

I don't have a wiring diagram on something that old but they were basic systems and there definitely shouldn't be anny power at the coil with the key off and the power should be coming directly from the ignition switch.

Response From rowem

well b4 i installed the new ignition switch i left the harness unplugged from it and still had the same problem, earlier i bypassed the relay with a wire straight to back of instrument cluster still same problem any idea where it might be cuz like i said voltage regulator,coil, cylinder and switch, relay, ignition, module alternator, resistor are all new and nothing seems to be burnt im just stumped and sorryto b such a bother fixing to lie down any i mean any advice would be helpfull

Response From Hammer Time

That thing has a module that is fed from the brown wire at the ignition switch through the resister. The alternator field wires are tied into it so try unplugging the alternator and see if that changes anything. I guess it's possible to have burnt diodes in the alternator feeding back through the ignition circuit.

Response From rowem

you have a point there havent thought about that ive just been overthinking i guess just to get done like i siad man ill post update 2morow and thanks so much god bless and goodnight

Response From rowem

tried that with the alternator didnt work havent fooled with car for a few days had to rest up just at a argh...state..ill start tracing wires again 2morow i did find every wire on harness has been cut and twisted back together but this problem just started out of the blue car only has 79,000 original miles has police package engine..later thanks

Response From rowem Top Rated Answer

do you think its in the ammeter possibly since red wire from batt turns to the brown wire to the coil? im not smart on mopars chevy is my game lol just not familier with mopar only worked on a few.. just kinda scatter brain with mom just passing and all i appreciate ur and advice man later god bless......

Response From re-tired

At this polnt in the game remove wire fom coil. With a test light find a hot with key on/crank wire either under hood or dash.. Tap onto it and hook to coil .Try and see if pob goes away.

Response From rowem

its not just the coil everything has power when switch off........

Response From Hammer Time

its not just the coil everything has power when switch off........

Your not listening. He never said the coil was the problem. He had you bypass the wiring.

Response From re-tired

Here is a link to my secret favorite mopar site . Don't give it out to anyone ok


Electrical diagrams for Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth cars

Response From rowem

sorry i just read to quick sometimes get in hurry with all i have going on thanks you guys maybe get some progress done on it god bless...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quick read - sorry. Will turning key all the way to accessory position shut off power to ignition? If so that would make be look for troubles right there,

T

Response From rowem

only thing left for me to do really is rewire the whole shebang i guess i have awiring diagram and have followed every wire to the t...??night man thanks for your help im sure be back in morning night and god bless

Response From rowem

i found the problem guys its in the instrument cluster panel oh well guess by new everything else new might as well thanks anyway guys god bless

No Headlights - 2004 Taurus

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From a1handy on No Headlights - 2004 Taurus

I recently purchased an 04 Taurus and discovered the headlights do not work. The park lamps work but neither the high or low beams come on. Is there a fuse that in that circuit that could be blown. If so where is it located. I see a fuse panel on the radiator support but none of the fuses are marked as to what they control. Also, I just got the car back from the garage where the transmission, alternator and steering pump were replaced. Could anything have happened during that process that could cause the problem

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There are multiple fuses associated with the headlamps but there appears to be only one that can knock them all out at once. That would be a 25amp fuse in the smart junction box under the dash labeled F2.37

Please Read...

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From ajwadi on Please Read...

My dad thought it would be smart to test and see if the Alternator of my car was working perfectly by removing one of the positive or negative ends on the battery while the car was started. Right at that moment there was a poping sound that seemed to have came from the fuse box but it didn't seem harmful until I noticed that my car stero/cd player wasn't working at all. I have had the alternator replaced not to long ago and the car starts and runs fine. Moreover, the cd player seems to be getting power as I removed the front panel and saw a blinking light. Any thoughts of what and where the problem could be?

Year: 1995
Make: Honda
Model of Vehicle: Civic Si (4 dr)
Engine: 16 valve (I dont know how to check...)
Mileage: 248000km

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Not trying to be disrespectful to your Dad, but tell Dad to not do that again. Disconnecting the battery with the engine running that has a working alternator can send a large voltage spike through the electrical system. Sensitive electronic components such as solid state devices can't handle that large of a spike. That's a good way to fry stuff as you may have found out with the radio. If you want to test the alternator to see if it is charging or not, use a volt meter on the battery terminals.

Your going to have to check for power and ground at the back of the radio with a multimeter. If you have power and ground to the radio, the radio is cooked.

battery dying

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From iluvmy88olds on battery dying

Ok, so I have a 96 olds 88, and it seems that recently the car battery is dying often after i've driven it. Its not the alternator and ive changed the battery a few times. No dum phuks saying my lights are on because they aren't. Just overnight the battery seems to die. What do you all think?

Response From jayeffel

I think you need to learn how to use proper language

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Also you might want to consider we are either mechanics or technicians--your choice of titles. We are not considered "dum phuks". If you think we are, then I don't see how any answer we can give will be considered as reliable. If you wish to rephrase your post, we might consider an answer that might not come from a smart a**. Thanks for using our forum.

Response From Guest

just tell me what the problem is.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Go phish!

T