Shop Discount Alternators

Hello everyone, Way2old may recognize this as it is posted elsewhere but I thought I'd ask here in hopes for a quick response...

This is a 95 Chevy G20 van 5.something liter. Back in the middle of summer I replaced the serpentine belt and I noticed a small crack at one of the bolt heads. It seemed like it could have been an edge between two pieces of metal, sort of a joint of sorts and so I decided to just keep my eye on it. Granted it's a weird spot for a joint to be, but I left it alone anyway.
So now it is cracked in two spots, that original one I just mentioned and now a HUGE one over on the opposite side. The alternator is just dangling in place and wiggles around quite freely now.

What I'd like to know, what my manual doesn't show me is how the hell to replace that mount. It is one big piece of metal that seems to be part of the engine itself. There are no easly visible mounting points that I can see anywhere (I haven't really tore into it too far though). It almost seems as if a new peice of metal will have to be welded to it in order to get it fixed, but I'm sure that is not the case. Here are a few photos. Can anyone start me off in the right direction or should I just take this thing in to a mechanic tommorow.

BTW, my level of experience is moderate. I've done a lot of my own car repairs over the years to include water pumps, alternators, radiators, wheel bearings and seals, rear axle replacement, brakes, installed my own car stereo. Is this something I can handle in a few hours? If not, I'll just pay someone.

So I found this:

http://www.oehq.com/...G20%20VAN%205.7L.htm#

It is listed as a 1991 G20 5.7L, but I have a 1995 G20 5.7L...will this work? Is this even close to what I need or am I way off? I really don't want to tear into this thing if it's going to be a huge multi-day headache. I would just pay someone if it isn't outlandish.

You said it paid 2-3 hours...figure in parts and I'm out what 400-500 bucks?

Would I need any special tools, gear pullers, pully removers etc. or is this just a standard socket and wrench kind of job?

BAM! Got this mofo off...I decided to just do it myself and save a chunk for Christmas. Pretty easy going so far. Only had to remove two alternator bolts, two idler pulleys, and the wheel tensioner. Nothing else was attached to this. Whew! Now I just have to find the damn thing, nothing like the picture that I posted earlier. It's more like a "mounting shroud" or something...







Dealers are closed for the night, maybe I'll try Kragen or Autozone armed with this new information. Or I can google those numbers.

What is the best way to get this alternator out?

Assuming you have a 4.6 engine, here are the instructions.



REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

1. Negative battery cable.
2. Cover from headlamps and radiator shroud.
3. Air cleaner.
4. Left engine torque strut.
5. Upper transmission oil cooler line.
6. Right and left cooling fans.
7. Serpentine belt from alternator pulley.
8. Alternator lower front and front top bolts.
9. Harness connector and output cable from alternator.
10. Two bolts from alternator rear bracket to alternator. The bolt nearest the exhaust manifold cannot be removed from the bracket but can be backed out to allow for removal of the alternator.
11. A/C splash shield from cradle (3 bolts).
12. Access panel from bottom side of radiator support (4 bolts).
13. Engine harness clip from cradle.
14. Alternator from vehicle. The alternator can be moved out away from the engine and removed from the bottom side of the engine compartment.

1. Alternator to mounting bracket with two bolts to rear of alternator (hand tighten).
2. Engine harness clip to cradle.
3. Access panel to lower radiator support (4 bolts).
4. A/C splash shield to cradle (3 bolts).
5. Harness connector and output cable to alternator. Tighten output cable to 20 Nm (15 lbs ft) and rear mounting bolts to 47 Nm (36 lbs ft) .
6. Bolts to lower front and front top of alternator. Tighten to 47 Nm (35 lbs ft) .
7. Rotate drive belt tensioner and install drive belt around alternator pulley. Inspect for correct alignment of belt with all accessory pulleys.
8. Left and right cooling fans.
9. Upper transmission oil cooler line.
10. Left engine torque strut.
11. Air cleaner.
12. Cover from headlamps and radiator shroud.
13. Negative battery cable and tighten bolt to15 Nm (11 lbs ft) .

1970 PONTIAC LEMANS ALTERNATOR LIGHT ON ? CHEV 383 CI AUTO

Nothing I'm aware of. The diode is internal to the alternator as far as I know.

hi,

i'm working on a old nissan engine(cd20) from a sunny,
i found a component outside of the alternator,
but i don't know for what reason it's there...



can someone help me with this ?

That's just a capacitor that is used as a noise filter for the radio. It filters alternator noise in your AM radio reception.

ah ok thx :D

i have an 86z28camaro i'm having problems with the alternator not charging the battery, i had the alternator checked at auto zone 3diff, times and it pass as good everytime its a new alternator.

Are you suggesting that it tests good and doesn't work in the car? They may be testing it by, bypassing the internal regulator and it could charge that way as a test.

Regulator should be available separately if you are up to taking the alternator apart (doable if you pay attention) and isn't that expensive for this era - (famous last words) if what I searched was correct.....

Test shown was like this.....

****************

On some internal regulator AC generators, full-fielding can be done by inserting a screwdriver through a special hole on the back of the unit.



**************

If exactly like that and you have room you could test it on car yourself.

Are you replacing this all the time? That isn't right if so,

T