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Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Head Machining

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From sirjinx on Head Machining

First off, my apologies to hammertime if I came off as brute in my last thread. I was responding smart alecky cause I thought you were being smart alecky with me. Hope you can forgive me. Truly sorry.

Second, I am replacing the head gasket in my automobile and will probably take my head to be machined. I already found a place that does it locally. My question is this:

Will I need to remove the whole rocker arm assembly for them to machine the head flat or can I leave everything on? Thank you in advance.

Response From zmame

not true if it's overhead cam you can leave it on.. I have no idea what your working on though. Alot of times the shop will take apart what they need to in order to service it.

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

My machine shop told me that it would cost extra if they had to take stuff off and to have it stripped before you bring it in.
I guess Some are different..

Response From Mr.scotty

The whole head may have to be stripped down.
Atleast all the ones i've done had to be.

electrical wiring headlight and turn signal problem

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From antonioa on electrical wiring headlight and turn signal problem

I have Ford Escape Hybrid 2007, the left side front had accident, and the headlight and turn signal light, when i connect the wiring to a new head light the engine shakes and shuts off and the wipers of the windshield
goes out of control. anyone can tell me if is bad contact or bad ground wire, lose wire, please help me.

Response From kev2

Sounds like you know the problem- you have a issue with the wiring - connecting wires wrong or a bad ground.

A) the replacement parts are correct, model, year, etc ?
B) you are using the plug in connectors NOT trying to splice into a harness
C) the damage is more involved than you thought?

what happens with the old components removed - same issue OR vehicle operates normal...

A wiring diagram a test light and basic circuit understanding should make this easy work.

Response From antonioa

the car had an accident and damage the right side of the headlight, apparently the damage must cut some wires or something. i did not splice the wires its the same connecters
so thats why im confuse. im going to try a different headlight
appreciate any help.
i try to be specific

Response From nickwarner

I take it this isn't something that was reported or there is no collision insurance to have fix this?

Response From antonioa

no i bought in auction

Response From Discretesignals

Hopefully the high voltage wires aren't damaged and/or your not playing with them. Do you have a wiring diagram and know how to use a volt meter?

Response From antonioa

i have a friend that knows. appreciate

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You should test the powers for the turn signal and headlamp sockets before plugging in your head lamp module.

The vehicle uses a smart junction box that is basically is a computer that sends power to accessories. Something is happening when you plug your lamps in to cause the smart junction box to freak out and do all those weird things.

Does it start wigging out if you have the headlamps on, the turn signal on, or just when you plug it in?

Response From antonioa

its only when i plug in the right side.
and i tested just the head light plug in and then just the turn signal light, either one has the same problem.
but the right side is fine and is always on and works good.

Response From Discretesignals

Something is goofy in the wiring. You stated there was some wiring work done? You should make sure that what they spliced together is correct. You might be plugging the headlamp and turn signal sockets in and completing a short or a connection on some other circuit because the wiring isn't spliced right.

Can you take pic of the wiring splice job and link the picture in here? Just want to see what your dealing with.

Response From antonioa

i will do that thank you so much very appreciate see u tomorrow thx

Response From antonioa

im sorry i mean to say the left side is okay

Response From antonioa

by the way also the left headlight and turn signal light is fine.
its only where it was the damage headlight on the right side.
that is mal function

2005 Silverado Front End Noise

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From larry78 on 2005 Silverado Front End Noise

I have a 2005 Silverado Z71 4WD Extended Cab with 59,000 miles on it. The problem started out with an ABS problem and I posted that here http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?post=79593#79593

Long story short the dealer fixed the ABS problem by replacing the wheel sensors but the truck has been making strange noises since:

  • An intermittent, rotational, metallic grinding sound (seems to have been cured by tightening the lug nuts the dealer left loose!)
  • Very occaisional metallic pinging or popping from Left Front
  • Very occaisional groan or howl from left front while turning or at below 40 mph going straight

  • In addition when I "tip" the Left Front wheel in or out (like checking ball joints) there seems to be play in the axle bearing at the hub end. RF does not do that.

    I have taken the truck back to the dealer but I would like to know whether, while replacing the wheel speed sensors, they could have done something wrong to cause a problem (in addition to loose lug nuts) or whether this is something like a bearing or CV joint and the timing is coincidental.

    Thanks!

    Larry78

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    YIKES! Lug nuts left loose! Hey - anything can happen to anyone sometimes but that's primal to be sure they are correct.

    If wheel is loose than the brake rotor could move too and no telling what could be damaged with that?? I'd be back at the dealer saying just what you said here,

    T

    Response From larry78

    Tom,

    Oh it is at the dealer. I sent the service manager essentially the same write-up. To be fair the lug nuts were snug, like you might get if you just used the "air" part of an air ratchet and did not torque them down. I suspected trouble when my semi-lame impact wrench spun the first one off like nothing. Then I switched to my air ratchet and saw how loose they really were. Have not heard back from the dealer yet. I just dropped it off again yesterday (Sunday, 9/19).

    Someone told me the wheel speed sensors and wheel bearings are integral on this model. T or F? When I Googled the parts it did not look that way.

    Thanks,

    Larry78

    Response From Sidom

    I'll just add my 2¢ for what its worth.

    The speed sensor does bolt to the hub but the hub doesn't have to be disassembled to replace just the speed sensor. Now if the exciter ring was replaced as well, then everything would've had to come apart.

    As far as the wheel being left loose, that is never a good thing and if you were able to remove the lugs with a cheap air ratchet & home compressor than more than likely they were not torqued. BUT the only real way to be sure would be to measure either the breakaway torque or apply more torque in 5ft lb increments to be sure.

    The only reason I mention this, is the shop I work at everything gets torqued to specs with torque sticks & then a torque wrench. If a lugnut is properly torqued & removed with an average air gun with average air line pressure then will be almost no "hammering effect". The nut will literally zip right off.

    We have had this problem with cars going to other shops that don't torque wheels and are use to taking off their overtorqued lug nuts. They are use to the hammer effect. They get one that is properly torque and the 1st thing they say is "Wow, this wheel was loose. Look how easy they all come off".

    This doesn't sound like the case here but thought I would mention it just due to the statement you made about the impact gun. With the other customers, the crazy thing is you will never convince them. You show them the $200 sticks, the $400 torque wrench and they are still happier with Bubba rattling their lugnuts down finishing with the statement "Oh yea...These babies are tight....They aint going no where"

    Response From larry78

    Sidom,

    Understood. This was a light duty Air Compressor connected to a Home Depot $29.95 impact wrench followed by a $29.95 Home Depot air ratchet (just the "air" part not manual ratcheting.) My dad had a garage for 26 years and then was a Snap-On dealer for about 14 years so I have a handle on the difference. He cringes when he sees my tools....waiting to inherit his but he is still using them at age 81 to restore antique cars to national show-winning quality .

    I probably should invest in a 1/2 torque wrench. My 3/8 job does not go up to the appropriate torque.

    Thanks for everyone's help!

    Larry78

    Response From Sidom

    LOL....I'll bet your dad is cringing...... But you know for home use that stuff is fine. It's not meant to withstand everyday use and probably doesn't get used every day...

    Wheel torquing has only really got big again I would say in the last 10 to 15 years before than no one torqued wheels (Not counting high end Euro or specialty wheel shops) When I 1st started torquing, it was a royal PITA & I hated it.....15 years later I find myself torquing my own wheels at home...



    OH yea Desi, we gotta Bubbas in every neighborhood. And they'll take Bubba's word as gospel..
    Like the guy with the 03 Taurus that wanted 20W 50 with the oil change cuz Bubba told him is was fine for everything..... As he stormed out he said he was gonna "get us all fired"....
    I've told you I've been looking for a reason to switch shops but have been lazy....This was a couple of months ago. I was thinking about calling him up & tell him to hurry it up.....

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    Yeah, I get people that think they are smart ass's and want me to use heavy oil in late model cars. They get the same answer.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Bubba huh?........................ You been in my neighborhood?

    oil pump removal 2005 buick rendezvous 3.4

    Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
    Question From bldbill on oil pump removal 2005 buick rendezvous 3.4

    Looking to change oil pump on buick rendezvous . Any tips would be welcomed.
    Thanks

    Response From kev2

    I could add a step by step BUT I will first ask WHY are you condemning the pump?
    this is a major job -- flat rate @ 7hrs... that's for a pro in fully equipped shop.

    Response From bldbill

    Low pressure light came on, change the sensor yesterday no problems. Wife went to go to work this morning and light came on, now it is running rough.

    Response From bldbill

    So I do have to pull the engine. Was hoping that with technology nowdays they would of figured something out by now

    Response From Discretesignals

    You don't have to remove the engine, but you'll need an engine support adapter because you got to drop the subframe to get the oil pan out. Suggest you pick up some service information. Try AlldataDIY.

    Response From bldbill

    Going to garage, I have the knowledge but not the tools. Too old to put it on blocks and crawl under it. 210,000 on engine. maybe time for a new car payment.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    210K and this issue: OK if tested REAL and low enough as you just said to run lousy because of true low oil pressure there's some pretty nasty damage going on already. If a pump alone was free it wouldn't make it right.
    Got to know the warnings and heed them. Low oil level not to be confused and low oil pressure a different and very fatal problem to an engine.


    Do check or have check with a gauge and if real causing it to run lousy think hard about keeping this vs IMO a marginal fix if a new oil pump even shut out the warning?


    T

    Response From bldbill

    The first thing I did was check the level. just changed the oil two weeks ago. It was fine. Low oil pressure sensor was leaking so I changed that. ran it for a bit seemed ok. I have it being towed to a trusted garage and they'll let me know what's up.

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    Smart decision

    Response From bldbill

    Thank you !!

    Response From kev2

    your next step is to confirm oil pressure, a mechanical gauge is used - often installed where the pressure sender is.
    I would also scan for codes- would confirm if any sensor issues ie wiring etc.
    I want to add oil pressure sensor not oil level sensor.

    Serpentine belt and spark plud thread tricks

    Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
    Question From keval85 on Serpentine belt and spark plud thread tricks

    Hi everyone I just joined the forum because my Grampa gave me his old 94 Ford Ranger.The tricks I would like to share is when I had noise coming from my serpentine belt on my truck I thought it was the tensioner but Grampa just poured some water on the belt when the engine was running and the noise instantly went away he said it needed a new belt because if the noise didn't go away it was likely a bad bearing.Put a new belt on and it is quiet now.I thought that was a pretty good trick for everyone to know.He also told me to put graphite no seize on the spark plug threads so they will be easier to remove when it is time to change them,Old Gramps is 81 but he sure is a smart man

    Response From Sidom

    Yup, Gramps still has some smoke on the old fast ball.....I use both of those with some slight variations but basically the same things...

    You got a good source for info there, take advantage & pick his brain.

    Did he ever turn wrenches professionally and if he did when did he get out of the field?

    Oh........and Welcome to the forum, grab a beer & make yourself at home.......

    Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

    US GRAMPS SURE AM SMART AINT WE W2O ?

    Response From way2old

    OH I forgot----

    Response From way2old

    Gramps gave you some advice that will help diagnose fairly quickly. Both of thosw are good tips. However there is always an exception. Keep listening to him. Welcome to the forum and feel free to jump in.