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Valeo
2012 Nissan Versa Alternator 4 Cyl 1.8L Valeo - 110 Amp

P311-35B74E2    W0133-2060844  New

Qty:
$400.93
Valeo Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 110 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Nissan Versa L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1798
Mitsubishi Electric
2008 Nissan Versa Alternator Mitsubishi Electric

P311-4A7D072    W0133-1828959  New

Qty:
$35.00 $401.06
Mitsubishi Electric Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - Reman
Brand: Mitsubishi Electric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Nissan Versa
Mitsubishi Electric
2007 Nissan Versa Alternator Mitsubishi Electric

P311-4A7D072    W0133-1828959  New

Qty:
$35.00 $401.06
Mitsubishi Electric Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - Reman
  • Production: 05/01/2006-
Brand: Mitsubishi Electric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Nissan Versa Fr:05-01-06
Mitsubishi Electric
2009 Nissan Versa Alternator Mitsubishi Electric

P311-4A7D072    W0133-1828959  New

Qty:
$35.00 $401.06
Mitsubishi Electric Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - Reman
  • Production: -08/31/2008
Brand: Mitsubishi Electric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Nissan Versa To:08-31-08
MPA
2011 Nissan Versa Alternator 4 Cyl 1.6L MPA - Remanufactured

P311-250E866    15072  Remanufactured

11344 , A2TJ0291 , 23100-EM01A

Qty:
$69.00 $122.17
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 120 Amps
    • Clock: 3:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Pulley: 7 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: Internal
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Nissan Versa L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
Mitsubishi
2011 Nissan Versa Alternator 4 Cyl 1.6L Mitsubishi

P311-1D60A3F    A2TJ0291  New

Qty:
$30.00 $162.88
Mitsubishi Alternator
Brand: Mitsubishi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Region Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Nissan Versa 1.6 Base HR16DE United States Naturally Aspirated GAS FI L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
Remy
2008 Nissan Versa Alternator 4 Cyl 1.8L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-46F06B1    12811  Remanufactured

A2TJ0281 , 23100-EM01B

Qty:
$80.00 $162.26
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 110 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 110
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 49.4
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Nissan Versa L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1798
Remy
2012 Nissan Versa Alternator 4 Cyl 1.8L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-2F93FDA    11124  Remanufactured

23100-ZW40B , A2TG1581AC , 23100-ZW40BRE

Qty:
$50.00 $131.83
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 100 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 100
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 49.3
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Nissan Versa L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1798
Remy
2011 Nissan Versa Alternator 4 Cyl 1.6L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-1A58B54    12957  Remanufactured

A2TJ0291 , 23100-EM01A

Qty:
$80.00 $134.55
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 120 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 54.5
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Nissan Versa L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
Valeo
2018 Nissan Versa Alternator Valeo

P311-5EA0DCC    W0133-2001322  New

Qty:
$425.45
Valeo Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Nissan Versa

Latest Nissan Versa Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2007 Nissan Versa having trouble starting and Idling problems

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From Nick89 on 2007 Nissan Versa having trouble starting and Idling problems

OK:

2007
Nissan
Versa
1.8 - MR18DE MANUAL transmission.
17194 Miles

I got this car used from a Nissan dealer ship back in November of 09.

Let me start off by saying that I have driven this car hard at times. But I never Redline it. There was only one time and it was because I missed a shift.

There are no check engine lights on.

I noticed the idling problem when I was in line at a drive-thru around January. I had the car in neutral and the clutch was not pressed in.

The engine went from idling smooth at around 900RPM to clumbering around at 500 then went back to around 900 again. I cannot recreate this. This seems to be a rare occurrence as it has only happened three times that I can remember.

In the last two months it has started to not want to start. Let me start by saying it is not the battery. The engine turns over fine but will not start on the first try but will always start on the second. This does not always happen sometimes it starts fine.

Today however it didn't start the first two tries but on the third.

another thing is I can hear a faint noise like a bearing going out when I rev the engine to around 2-3K RPM while parked. It does not happen when the engine is under load and it is very hard to tell it is even there if the windows are rolled up. I can also notice it in everyday driving if the car is at a stop light and I rev the engine a little.

^EDIT: Just tested to see If I could hear it again, I could not get it to make the noise at start up(car had been sitting for 6 hours) I drove it down the street and back and parked it. It started making the sound now when I gently reved it. I tested to see if the noise was different if the car was in gear with the clutch in or in neutral it was not. The noise only occurred at the peak of a rev right as the needle would go back down. The noise sounded like a soft GRINDING. The noise doesn't last long only about two seconds then the engine sounds fine at idle.

EDIT: Another thing I remembered is that The RPM will drop a bit when I turn the headlights on and also when the A/C is turned on. The radio Also.
The fluctuation is about 100 RPM.

I have rebuilt the engine in a 1967 El Camino with my uncle, and I helped a friend install turbos and other parts on his Subaru impreza and rebuild the engine. So I can tell when a sound is wrong. But I'm not good with the engine computer stuff.

Those are just some examples to show my level of knowledge.

Unfortunately I know little to nothing about my Versa. I could change the oil, flush the rad basic stuff like that. I know how to read OBD2(google the codes) but I don't have a reader.

Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd get codes read anyway but it seems this poor thing has been beat up so bad there's mechanical engine problems confusing start and idle computer controlled devices. You hear a noise now so chase that down like you would for a 67 El Camino - compression, vacuum testing and canceling cylinders to diagnose what is the most likely failure.

BTW, IMO - holding idle at 3,000 with no load is full abuse! What are you thinking about?

T

Response From Nick89

Thank you for the reply, I'm going to goto autozone and see if its giving any codes.

And I need to rephrase what I said, I wasnt holding it at 3K. I was revving it up between 2-3K and letting it go back to idle to try and create the noise. I don't rev it up like that normally.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

The noise does bug me and I'm sure you. The computer is really just doing what even very old fashioned things did mechanically. It knows temps, pressures, and its own idle speed and makes those adjustments based on the same things as it ever was designed just converted to an electrical impulse for the damn computer to decide for you.

The idle drop with A/C load or even the alternator when headlights (big load you don't realize) works the engine pretty hard but should be compensated and idle stay within set specs.

Can't say for all but some codes will be stored before it sets a check engine light in many cars. If minor it will wait to see if the problem of something being out of spec stays that way or just temporary. Take codes with a grain of salt. They lead you to the area of trouble but don't plain say what part must be replaced or anything - yet!

Keep in mind. by 2007 and earlier the car is monitoring tons of info. Vehicle speed, load, gear it's in, RPM, - should know air speed into throttle body, make adjustments for altitude and the list goes on.

Under all of it is still a piston engine with valves like they've fundamentally been for ions. The sensors monitoring everything with such a new car and low miles should have failed right away when new or lasted this long. Hard to abuse a sensor really short of messing with wiring.

It's the noise combined with low or starting issues that probably is confusing a working sensor with possibly a real mechanical problem,

T

Response From Nick89

Well I'm thinking the noise is the throw out bearing at this point.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Anything is possible but the throwout bearing is really just going along for the ride when your foot is OFF the clutch. Could it rattle in there - maybe?? There more known for a growl or whirring than a knocking sound if bad,

T

Response From Nick89

Got the OBD readout done at auto zone today and no codes came up.

I didn't know it was that easy.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can you isolate the noise to any one cylinder? Canceling a cylinder one at a time is telling if one makes it worse or better by doing so.

I'm caught up in the noise and may be off on the wrong tangent as that being the root cause. From listening rod/stethoscope, compression testing, vacuum testing something should show with an idle that can't stay in spec.

The car probably used an idle air control device to self adjust idle. Some may use a motor to hold idle up or let it down as needed somewhat like a cruise control for speed.

Not all faults if mechanical will show a code. Plain not running properly eventually will throw a code. There's a grace period for start up when engine takes a second or several to stabilize before it's performance will be recorded right up thru when warmed up most engines are putting out bits too much of emissions and forgiven for the short while.

Not all code readings are equal. Some are much more comprehensive.

For now I'd chase down the noise and check for anything out of order with plug in items and the integrity of all air intake items. Spray for vacuum leaks wouldn't hurt either to rule that out,

T

Response From Nick89

Unfortunately I don't have the time or the tools to get down and dirty with this thing.

I really appreciate your help Tom.

I'm going to take it to the dealership when I get a chance. Its still under warranty.