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CTR
2007 Nissan Versa Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link CTR

P311-0C50B97    W0133-2031584  New

Qty:
$27.41
CTR Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link
  • Production: 05/01/2006-
Brand: CTR
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Nissan Versa Fr:05-01-06
CTR
2019 Nissan Versa Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link CTR

P311-0C50B97    W0133-2031584  New

Qty:
$27.41
CTR Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link
Brand: CTR
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2019 - Nissan Versa
Mahle
2016 Nissan Versa Engine Oil Cooler Seal Mahle

P311-0F96589    W0133-1928429  New

Qty:
$15.65
Mahle Engine Oil Cooler Seal
  • Oil Cooler To Engine Block
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Nissan Versa
Mahle
2018 Nissan Versa Engine Oil Cooler Gasket Mahle

P311-0F96589    W0133-1928429  New

Qty:
$15.65
Mahle Engine Oil Cooler Gasket
  • Oil Cooler To Engine Block
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Nissan Versa
Mahle
2014 Nissan Versa Engine Oil Cooler Seal Mahle

P311-0F96589    W0133-1928429  New

Qty:
$15.65
Mahle Engine Oil Cooler Seal
  • Production: 03/01/2014-
  • Oil Cooler To Engine Block
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2014 - Nissan Versa Fr:03-01-14
Full
2019 Nissan Versa Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-1354024    W0133-1966949  New

Qty:
$15.61
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2019 - Nissan Versa
Eastern Catalytic
2012 Nissan Versa Catalytic Converter 4 Cyl 1.8L Eastern Catalytic - DIRECT FIT

P311-4FCFB05    40695  New

Qty:
$299.53
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Direct-fit Converter Assembly
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • DIRECT FIT
  • Product Attributes:
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Ii
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2 Bolt Welded
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2 Bolt Welded
  • Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology also helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices. The proprietary NANO substrate chemistry yields highly efficient loadings for lower cost and better converter efficiency.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Nissan Versa L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1798
Premium Guard
2017 Nissan Versa Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Premium Guard - Standard Life Oil Filter

P311-2208BBC    PO4612  New

Qty:
$3.48
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M20x1.5 Outside Diameter 2.69" Height 2.93" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Nissan Versa L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
NPN
2019 Nissan Versa Air Filter NPN

P311-38FCA36    W0133-1938837  New

Qty:
$38.08
NPN Air Filter
Brand: NPN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2019 - Nissan Versa
Genuine
2019 Nissan Versa Cabin Air Filter Genuine

P311-09DC228    W0133-2078832  New

Qty:
$44.13
Genuine Cabin Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Particulate Filter
  • with Retro Fit Cabin Air Filtration System
  • The cabin filter on this vehicle was not installed at the factory but was part of an optional dealer-installed cabin filter kit. This filter element is for vehicles that have had this kit already installed.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2019 - Nissan Versa

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,117 Products.


Latest Nissan Versa Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Jump Start Mystery

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From gmagic911x on Jump Start Mystery

Tried to jump start a 2001 Jeep Liberty with 2014 Mazda CX-5. Couldn't start it, only heard relay clicking. Was able to successfully jump start the Jeep with a 2012 Nissan Versa. Why wouldn't the Mazda jump start the Jeep.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Yes, as Tom advised, it is very risky using a car to jump start these days. You can do thousands of dollars in damage to the donor car very easily.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Chances are you simply got a better connection with one vs the other. Pro grade booster cables cost a fortune so bad most places don't even have them on hand - hundred$$. Just saw some junk set for under $10 so that's an issue.


Aside from that it's much better NOT to use other vehicles but rather a jumper box then immediately charge the victim car's battery with a charger and test it out and all connections along with its charging system,


T

Nissan Versa 2007 Loud engine noise.

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From segablaze on Nissan Versa 2007 Loud engine noise.

Hi,
I recently brought in my car for service at a Nissan dealership. I replaced the shocks and had my air conditioner fixed. The air conditioner had a leak and wasn't blowing cold air into the car when it turned on. The whole thing cost about $400 (Canadian) to fix.

When I got my car back, I noticed the engine sounding a lot louder then usual. My car is manual, when I get to the 4th gear the engine roars very loud. Following the 5th and 6th gear, if I accelerate slightly, I still get that same loud roar from the engine. This problem only came up AFTER I had my air conditioner fixed.
Would getting my air conditioner fixed have any relation to this problem? I'm going to bring in my car to the dealership tomorrow and they're going to have a look at it.

I really don't trust these mechanics, I feel like they're going to say right away that the problem has no relation to the air conditioner and that it has to be fixed separately, therefore costing a shit ton of money I don't have atm. How should I approach this situation, where I would end up spending the least amount of money?

Thanks for the help!

Response From Discretesignals

What part of the air conditioning system did they work on or replace? Taking it back to them is a good idea.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Yes - take it back for a check. Might be normal if you are used to NO A/C and now it works it is a load on engine and a "busier" sound with it working you probably would hear and notice in a Versa! May be nothing and if just that would go away if you turned A/C off,


T

Service Manual Question

Showing 4 out of 7 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From scudder on Service Manual Question

I have a 2007 Nissan Versa, and I'm looking at the service manual. Various components have a symbol indicating "always replace this part after every disassembly." On the diagram of the front strut components the symbol appears to be referring to the two nuts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle, but it's unclear from the diagram if I should replace the bolts as well. Is there a standard practice for this?

Response From Sidom

The diagram you are looking at is referring to the nut only.

I haven't done one of those yet so I'm assuming it's either an oblonged nut or a nut with nylon in the end of it. These are usually used in place of a lock washer. With all of these setups, their purpose is basically to keep the nut from backing off if it ever gets loose. Lock washers are reusable. Nylon & oblonged are suppose to be one time use just due to the locking feature.

As far as a standard....... If you want to replace them you will have to go to the dealer and their expensive. It's not a common enough practice that aftermarket part sources carry them for specific applications.

Response From scudder

Looks like I can order them online at about $2.00 a piece. Suppose I might as well since I'm waiting on some new jack stands anyway, and if I don't I'll be irrationally worried about it. Thanks very much to both of you for the explanations, makes perfect sense now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If I may add: When you do enough of this crap you get a feel for if self locking nuts of the sort are still self locking a second time as they just fight if tightened by hand tools. I'm not the least surprised that instructions will say to ALWAYS replace them as they can't judge what you are dealing with.

You can use threadlocker and in some places on things purposely distort a nut in a vise such that no vibrations will allow it to loosen and fall off.

If in doubt go ahead and do as suggested. I'll further suggest you get solid jack stands not the pressed metal ones with a pin and chain type. It's you life under that car forget the bargain on that! Know where to place them and of proper surface too on level area of cement. Asphalt and ground are not dependable. Double up with the wheel not holding weight (if it's off for the work but may save you in a failure,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I have never replaced those on any car. Just make sure they are good and tight when your finished.

Response From scudder Top Rated Answer

I figured as much, as the quote I got from a repair shop didn't include the new hardware, and none of the strut replacement guides I've seen mention it. Any idea what the rationale would be to replacing those nuts?

Also, thanks for the quick reply!

Response From Hammer Time

They are probably self locking nuts and they are designed for one time use but if they're tight enough, there will never be a problem.

Advice on Trade in?

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Rycon on Advice on Trade in?

Please excuse me if I am posting this in the wrong section, I couldn't seem to find an exact fit. I am just looking for general advice as this is my first new car (all previous were used and cheap). I bought a 07 Nissan Versa SL Hatch brand new at the dealer in 07 for my wife. She isn't really satisfied with the car now. KBB estimates trade in value at about 7.5k and we still owe 10k on it. We would like to get something different but arent sure the best way to go about it to get a fair deal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

Your not in a good situation no matter what you do. Financially, the best thing would be to sell it outright and maybe you can get a little more for it. Then you have to worry about timing and waiting till you sell it to buy something else. The easiest way would be to trade it in but that will put you even more upside down on the next loan because they will roll what you owe on this one into your next loan. The smartest thing to do a stick it out for another year or two and you won't get hurt so bad.

Response From joemag7 Top Rated Answer

Deleted and banned

Response From Sidom

HT pretty much summed it up

With any new car there is always that deficiency for the 1st few years until it evens out. They even have gap insurance to cover that difference in case the vehicle gets totaled..

You could try to sell it but would still have to come up with some money for the payoff for the simple reason someone couple pay way less for the same year vehicle off a lot.

Riding it out would be the cheapest option. If you have to get rid of it then rolling it in to a new car loan would probably require the least up front money.

If you are planning on only have a new car for a couple of years you may want to look into leasing.....Just read all the terms. I know you can get upside down on mileage and wind up being in the same boat you're in right now....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree - Ride it out. In fact make extra payments and get rid of the note. Read your car loan papers or have them interpreted. Bet you find any extra on the payment goes off the back end which in turn makes the day it's paid off quicker at a faster rate than you would think. It also allows you (rates vary place by place) to raise deductibles on insurance you choose when the vehicle is paid for - more money saved.

Also think of what a month is. There are 4.3 weeks (ave) in a month = 13 per year instead of the 12 named months. It's pretty straight forward math. Most folks get paid based on a week's time so that hidden month really is there!

T

Response From Rycon

Thanks guys you have been most helpful. I wasn't aware how this all exactly works when you buy a new car, I knew it wasn't the best decision at the time but sometimes your time is worth more.. it all depends.

From what it sounds like, the best bet for us is to refinance because were paying like 12% for no reason, perfect credit but the bank didn't want to refinance because of 'lack of credit lines' which basically meant they wanted us to get more loans or credit cards.. whatever. Should be able to do it now though since some time has passed and no payments missed.

Technically I could pay the car off or even most of it with our savings, but they believe they get the interest out of you regardless.

I will take some more time to read over these posts and check it out. Thank You

Response From Hammer Time

If you refinance, make sure it's for a shorter term and your not paying a ton of service and bank charges for the new loan. You can make it even worse if you just start all over again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You need to be sure you aren't just giving them 12% all at once if paperwork has early payoff penalties or some crooked thing like that. I don't think my state allows that but who knows what could be legal and where?

Seems to me that if you traded it in now at a loss YOU would just be making up the difference and the interest would cease on the original deal. It then puts you "underwater" (term for owing more than the equity of the item) again right away with another car.

Makes it really worth taking time to choose the right car, and one you will like and serve the purposes needed.

Need to look and or ask what the penalties if any are for early pay off. As already said by the others, riding it out for a bit more will probably be most advantageous. Cars are a loss no matter how you slice it. Just aim for the least, loss

T

2007 Nissan Versa having trouble starting and Idling problems

Showing 4 out of 9 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Nick89 on 2007 Nissan Versa having trouble starting and Idling problems

OK:

2007
Nissan
Versa
1.8 - MR18DE MANUAL transmission.
17194 Miles

I got this car used from a Nissan dealer ship back in November of 09.

Let me start off by saying that I have driven this car hard at times. But I never Redline it. There was only one time and it was because I missed a shift.

There are no check engine lights on.

I noticed the idling problem when I was in line at a drive-thru around January. I had the car in neutral and the clutch was not pressed in.

The engine went from idling smooth at around 900RPM to clumbering around at 500 then went back to around 900 again. I cannot recreate this. This seems to be a rare occurrence as it has only happened three times that I can remember.

In the last two months it has started to not want to start. Let me start by saying it is not the battery. The engine turns over fine but will not start on the first try but will always start on the second. This does not always happen sometimes it starts fine.

Today however it didn't start the first two tries but on the third.

another thing is I can hear a faint noise like a bearing going out when I rev the engine to around 2-3K RPM while parked. It does not happen when the engine is under load and it is very hard to tell it is even there if the windows are rolled up. I can also notice it in everyday driving if the car is at a stop light and I rev the engine a little.

^EDIT: Just tested to see If I could hear it again, I could not get it to make the noise at start up(car had been sitting for 6 hours) I drove it down the street and back and parked it. It started making the sound now when I gently reved it. I tested to see if the noise was different if the car was in gear with the clutch in or in neutral it was not. The noise only occurred at the peak of a rev right as the needle would go back down. The noise sounded like a soft GRINDING. The noise doesn't last long only about two seconds then the engine sounds fine at idle.

EDIT: Another thing I remembered is that The RPM will drop a bit when I turn the headlights on and also when the A/C is turned on. The radio Also.
The fluctuation is about 100 RPM.

I have rebuilt the engine in a 1967 El Camino with my uncle, and I helped a friend install turbos and other parts on his Subaru impreza and rebuild the engine. So I can tell when a sound is wrong. But I'm not good with the engine computer stuff.

Those are just some examples to show my level of knowledge.

Unfortunately I know little to nothing about my Versa. I could change the oil, flush the rad basic stuff like that. I know how to read OBD2(google the codes) but I don't have a reader.

Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd get codes read anyway but it seems this poor thing has been beat up so bad there's mechanical engine problems confusing start and idle computer controlled devices. You hear a noise now so chase that down like you would for a 67 El Camino - compression, vacuum testing and canceling cylinders to diagnose what is the most likely failure.

BTW, IMO - holding idle at 3,000 with no load is full abuse! What are you thinking about?

T

Response From Nick89

Thank you for the reply, I'm going to goto autozone and see if its giving any codes.

And I need to rephrase what I said, I wasnt holding it at 3K. I was revving it up between 2-3K and letting it go back to idle to try and create the noise. I don't rev it up like that normally.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The noise does bug me and I'm sure you. The computer is really just doing what even very old fashioned things did mechanically. It knows temps, pressures, and its own idle speed and makes those adjustments based on the same things as it ever was designed just converted to an electrical impulse for the damn computer to decide for you.

The idle drop with A/C load or even the alternator when headlights (big load you don't realize) works the engine pretty hard but should be compensated and idle stay within set specs.

Can't say for all but some codes will be stored before it sets a check engine light in many cars. If minor it will wait to see if the problem of something being out of spec stays that way or just temporary. Take codes with a grain of salt. They lead you to the area of trouble but don't plain say what part must be replaced or anything - yet!

Keep in mind. by 2007 and earlier the car is monitoring tons of info. Vehicle speed, load, gear it's in, RPM, - should know air speed into throttle body, make adjustments for altitude and the list goes on.

Under all of it is still a piston engine with valves like they've fundamentally been for ions. The sensors monitoring everything with such a new car and low miles should have failed right away when new or lasted this long. Hard to abuse a sensor really short of messing with wiring.

It's the noise combined with low or starting issues that probably is confusing a working sensor with possibly a real mechanical problem,

T

Response From Nick89

Well I'm thinking the noise is the throw out bearing at this point.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Anything is possible but the throwout bearing is really just going along for the ride when your foot is OFF the clutch. Could it rattle in there - maybe?? There more known for a growl or whirring than a knocking sound if bad,

T

Response From Nick89 Top Rated Answer

Got the OBD readout done at auto zone today and no codes came up.

I didn't know it was that easy.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can you isolate the noise to any one cylinder? Canceling a cylinder one at a time is telling if one makes it worse or better by doing so.

I'm caught up in the noise and may be off on the wrong tangent as that being the root cause. From listening rod/stethoscope, compression testing, vacuum testing something should show with an idle that can't stay in spec.

The car probably used an idle air control device to self adjust idle. Some may use a motor to hold idle up or let it down as needed somewhat like a cruise control for speed.

Not all faults if mechanical will show a code. Plain not running properly eventually will throw a code. There's a grace period for start up when engine takes a second or several to stabilize before it's performance will be recorded right up thru when warmed up most engines are putting out bits too much of emissions and forgiven for the short while.

Not all code readings are equal. Some are much more comprehensive.

For now I'd chase down the noise and check for anything out of order with plug in items and the integrity of all air intake items. Spray for vacuum leaks wouldn't hurt either to rule that out,

T

Response From Nick89

Unfortunately I don't have the time or the tools to get down and dirty with this thing.

I really appreciate your help Tom.

I'm going to take it to the dealership when I get a chance. Its still under warranty.