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Best Selling Genuine Hyundai Alternators

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Mando
2014 Hyundai Elantra Alternator Mando

P311-261BDFE    W0133-1938498  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$302.08
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • with Korea Built & w/o MICOM
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2014 - Hyundai Elantra GL Automatic
Mando
2016 Hyundai Elantra Alternator Mando

P311-261BDFE    W0133-1938498  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$302.08
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • with Korea Built
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2016 - Hyundai Elantra SE Manual
Mando
2015 Hyundai Elantra Alternator 4 Cyl 1.8L Mando

P311-261BDFE    W0133-1938498  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$302.08
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • Production: -04/17/2015, with USA Built
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2015 - Hyundai Elantra Manual L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1797 To:04-17-15
Mando
2014 Hyundai Elantra Alternator 4 Cyl 1.8L Mando

P311-261BDFE    W0133-1938498  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$302.08
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Hyundai Elantra Manual L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1797
Valeo
2013 Hyundai Sonata Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Valeo

P311-2D407DC    W0133-1897990  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$454.40
Valeo Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Hyundai Sonata GAS L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359
Valeo
2012 Hyundai Sonata Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Valeo

P311-2D407DC    W0133-1897990  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$454.40
Valeo Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Hyundai Sonata GAS L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359
Mando
2015 Hyundai Veloster Alternator Mando

P311-1EA2EA1    W0133-2001221  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$388.10
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2015 - Hyundai Veloster Turbocharged
Mando
2013 Hyundai Sonata Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Mando

P311-585A93D    W0133-1896780  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$291.76
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Hyundai Sonata L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Mando
2010 Hyundai Accent Alternator Mando

P311-334108C    W0133-1890306  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$233.44
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • 3 Pin Connector
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Hyundai Accent
Mando
2011 Hyundai Accent Alternator Mando

P311-334108C    W0133-1890306  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$233.44
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Hyundai Accent
Valeo
2014 Hyundai Sonata Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Valeo

P311-21A3124    W0133-1896780  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$461.88
Valeo Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Hyundai Sonata L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Mando
2004 Hyundai Tiburon Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Mando

P311-28E4A90    W0133-1782480  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$209.00
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • Production: 04/04/2004-
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2004 - Hyundai Tiburon L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975 Fr:04-04-04
Mando
2004 Hyundai Elantra Alternator Mando

P311-28E4A90    W0133-1782480  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$209.00
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • Production: -08/29/2003
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Hyundai Elantra To:08-29-03
Mando
2007 Hyundai Accent Alternator Mando

P311-28E4A90    W0133-1782480  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$209.00
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Hyundai Accent
Mando
2003 Hyundai Accent Alternator Mando

P311-28E4A90    W0133-1782480  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$209.00
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • 2 Pin Connector
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hyundai Accent
Mando
2002 Hyundai Elantra Alternator Mando

P311-28E4A90    W0133-1782480  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$209.00
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • Production: 07/13/2002-
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Hyundai Elantra Fr:07-13-02
Mando
2015 Hyundai Elantra Alternator Mando

P311-2A6745D    W0133-2068609  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$371.38
Mando Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement - 100% New
  • with Korea Built & with MICOM
Brand: Mando
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2015 - Hyundai Elantra GL Automatic
Valeo
1997 Hyundai Accent Alternator Valeo

P311-5CECDA3    W0133-1649359  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$391.25
Valeo Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 90 amp
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1997 - Hyundai Accent DOHC
Valeo
2000 Hyundai Tiburon Alternator Valeo

P311-5CECDA3    W0133-1649359  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$391.25
Valeo Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
Brand: Valeo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Hyundai Tiburon

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Hyundai sonata alternator help

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From masterkey on 2002 Hyundai sonata alternator help

Hi, New user here :D. I bought a 2002 Hyundai sonata, 2 weeks in the alternator stopped working. So i figured i need to change it. I heard that in some korean cars you need to also remove the CV joint in order to get the alternator out. I want to know from those users who have experience with this car if my 2002 Hyundai sonata is also one of those vehicles. Thank you very much.


(no changes just a new edit to remove OP's edit showed an email address)

Response From Hammer Time

My first advice would be to change your user name. Spammers attack this site on a regular basis and they would have fun with your e-mail address.

Can't tell you much about your car yet since you didn't bother to tell us what engine you have.

Response From masterkey Top Rated Answer

My first advice would be to change your user name. Spammers attack this site on a regular basis and they would have fun with your e-mail address.

Can't tell you much about your car yet since you didn't bother to tell us what engine you have.

Thank you very much for the advice. I changed my user name. As for the type of engine i have, it is 2002 hyundai sonata 2.4 engine. 4 cylinder engine.

Response From Hammer Time

The factory instructions consist of a picture only so it doesn't specify that. The only reason to remove an axle would be to provided enough space to get the alternator. Ig you can see a space that the component will fit through without removing the axle, then that will answer your question.

Hyundai not charging battery

Showing 4 out of 13 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From rfrainman on Hyundai not charging battery

2002 Hyundai Elantra. Lights dimmed and engine quit. Battery read 10 volts. W/ Engine running got 13.5 volts a few seconds then went down to about 7 volts.
Replaced alternator and battery. After a day same thing : headlights dimmed, and car quit. After a few minutes started again and got car home but died when slowed to park. Charging the battery now. Not sure where to look from here.
Any ideas appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

Are you saying that the new, fully charged battery dropped to 7v in a matter of seconds with the engine running?

Response From rfrainman Top Rated Answer

No, the old battery.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, what exactly is the voltage doing now? That's what we would be interested in.

Response From rfrainman

Okay, charged the battery. Get 12.5 v across the terminals. With engine running get 12.2 v. From pos. terminal on alternator to pos battery post get 3.8v. Have read should see less than .5v so, I guess some bad connection in there. Where I haven't a clue

Response From Hammer Time

Your voltage drop test was done correctly.

In the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment, check the 100A BATT fusible link.

Response From rfrainman

You the man Hammer time! The fusible link was fried. I always forget to check the simplest things first.

Response From Hammer Time

Glad to hear it. I'll close this now as solved.

Response From Discretesignals

You da man HT! Good job

Response From Hammer Time

Thanks DS, I get lucky on the easy ones sometimes.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are not charging but get some help as clearly you don't know where to test what or what it should be and where or what the volts should read. Nothing credible except the 12.5 within margin of error,
T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Confused or I am: Volts when running as HT asked and you posted - YES OR NO?
Next: Was that reading from the posts themselves of the battery or the clamps. I don't think an engine will run for crap at a real 7V or at all and think you said it didn't but battery if reading is different from the post or the clamps that matters. Car will only know what they clamps are at,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't know the layout but similar to most. See if newly charged battery delivers power to alternator. Either that is fused or thru a fusible link wire that could do this.
Other: Some may be self or automatically tensioned belt to alternator and more. If belt really at the end of travel and slipping it would/could just slip away not charging much or any and die out with other electrical things using up just the battery just from running.
Try hard not to let new or any battery run low or go dead from any reason as that's real hard on even new battery and hard on alternator if you allow it to recharge a very low charged battery,


T

2002 Hyundai Accent won't start

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From fun value on 2002 Hyundai Accent won't start

It is a 2002 Hyundai Accent, 1.5 or 1.6 L engine. Doesn't start, doesn't even turn over. When I jump from Pontiac (with Pontiac engine off) it either clicks and doesn't start or sometimes it turns over really well and starts right up. I cleaned the battery posts and cables. When I take the Hyundai battery to Walmarts and to Autozone they say the battery is good. After starting with the Pontiac I let it idle for about 1.5 hours. At first I noticed the charge indicator on the dashboard showed no charging. Later I noticed it was charging (needle at about 1/3). Aft.about 1.5 hours I turned it off and immediately tried to restart. It didn't start, didn't even turn over, didn't even click, click, click.
So now what? And also, what should I expect the dealer to charge. They do a $85 diagnostic and if I chose to have them repair it, they refund the $85. Any suggestions on other places. Pepboys is 100 miles away.
Thanks.

Response From Discretesignals

Might want to have the battery tested again. Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. No corrosion. When you get it running, check the charging system voltage with a volt meter at the battery terminals. When it is charging it should be around 13.5 volts. Also make sure your belts are in good condition and properly tensioned.

Response From fun value

After jumping and starting, the voltage is about 12.77 volts.
I want to try disconnecting the battery while running to see if the alternator keeps it running, but one website said the battery could blow up. Why would it blow if disconnected? Anyway, what do you think. I will wear goggles, even my motorcycle helmet.
What do you think about the alternator? The alternator indicator indicates it is charging.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The alternator isn't charging. You may need to have the alternator tested. There also could be a problem outside the alternator, such as wiring or connectors problems. On the back of the alternator is a large stud where the battery cable connects to. Check voltage at the stud also. Some alternator circuits have fuses, so be sure those fuses are intact.

The battery won't blow up if you disconnect it while the engine is running, but if the alternator is functioning and you disconnect the battery while the engine is running, you'll stand the chance of frying solid state components such as an engine computer. The reason is because the alternator is sensing battery voltage. When you disconnect the battery, the alternator's regulator senses the extreme drop in voltage, so the regulator full fields the alternator. This generates a very large voltage spike into the electrical system. The spike (surge) is what can take out solid state components. The battery acts as buffer against these spikes, but since the battery is disconnected the buffer is non existent. Some modules have protection, but there is no guaranty damage can't be inflicted.

The best tool that you have to check to see if the charging system is operational is the volt meter. 12.77 volts is near battery voltage and isn't enough. Charging system voltage should be in the vicinity of 13.5-14 volts.

Response From fun value

Hi discretesignals:
Well, before I read your post I cleaned the posts better. I thought I cleaned them pretty well before. But I finally broke down and paid the $10 for a cleaning kit. I guess my kid put so much pepsi on it over and over that it built up quite a thick layer of corrosion. Then I replaced the cable and it started right away. I tested with the voltmeter and it read about 14.7 volts. Hope that's not to high.
But like the others said, and I admit, I am not that smart with this stuff. I am over 63 years old and haven't worked on engines since our John Deere tractor back in the 60's and our Allis Chalmers which used a magneto. We didn't have to worry about all the high-tech back then.
So anyway, now my pontiac engine light is on all the time. Wonder what I did to it.
One time I did accidentally make a big spark when I touched the terminals between the two cars backwards while using the Pontiac to jump the Hyundai. Trying to hurry, working on Sunday, etc...., well now what?
I checked the Pontiac voltage. It's about 12.5 with the engine off and 14.8 running.
BTW, what voltage is considered over-charging?
Also, curious, but what about amperage? I guess it shouldn't be deadly, but would it blow my little VOM?
Well, I am happy I don't have to take my Hyundai in. A year ago I took it in, asked for a simple fix and they talked me into a whole bunch of stuff. It was Christmas, so I gave them $600 for stuff I could have done. But now the Pontiac could cost me even more. I am just a teacher in a school where my salary has been cut $6000.

Response From Hammer Time

You charging voltage is just fine.........................

I wish I could say the same for your truck. You seem to do more damage every time you touch it. Apparently, your idea of cleaning battery terminals was to pour Pepsi over the battery. We aren't in the 60s any more.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can't use Pepsi. Has to be the real thing....




LMAO,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Operating voltage: ..............................

Voltage regulators control the charging voltage that the alternator produces, commonly keeping it between 13.5 and 14.5 V, to protect the electrical components throughout the vehicle

  • When not replaced, the battery will discharge or over charge (destroying battery), engine will die, CEL will illuminate, charging system light will illuminate, or alternator damage may occur.


  • ***************************************
    14.8? Check or calibrate your VOM. IMO that's an odd voltage to stay at and shouldn't stay at max of range anyway. If verified you can replace just a voltage regulator in most GMs inside alternator. Any doubts on how to do that DON'T!

    T

    Response From fun value

    I recleaned the terminals and posts with stuff from the autoparts store. I think I cleaned it better, because it started without jumping. I put on gloves, motorcycle helmet and removed the positive terminal. It kept running. But I replaced the terminals and tested with the voltmeter. It read out 14.42 volts. So now I wonder if the alternator is over-charging.

    Response From Sidom


    I put on gloves, motorcycle helmet and removed the positive terminal. It kept running.


    I guess there are some people out there that really have no business working or cars, before they hurt themselves or the car

    Response From Hammer Time


    Response From Discretesignals

    Ya, the gloves and helmet idea should of tipped me off.

    Response From Discretesignals

    I guess you didn't read what I typed or maybe you didn't understand what I typed.

    Maybe I should use pictures. Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running can cook circuit boards or those small tiny electrical components that are on the circuit boards. Those circuit boards are inside the computers that controls the functions of the engine and the transmission and other electrical items throughout the vehicle.

    In the picture below are tiny little solid state components. They are designed to operate on low voltages. When you induce a higher than normal voltage into one or more of the components they tend to cook. This higher than normal voltage occurs when disconnecting the battery from a working charging system. Those components are repairable up to a point, but very very expensive and time consuming to diagnose and repair. I guess you are willing to take your chances of seeing if a module has overload protection and if it is functioning properly. Not something I would gamble with.



    Hyundai 2002 Elantra

    Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
    Question From nymain2 on Hyundai 2002 Elantra

    My 2002 Hyundai Elantra will not start. I turn the key and nothing comes on and no clicking sound. The battery is three months old. I also put in a used alternator from a junk yard three months ago. When i jump the car it will start but as soon as i turn it off again it dies. I had the a/c and radio off. When I stopped at a red light you could see the clock display start dimming. It runs on a serpintine belt. What could be my problem? Any help is very appreciated.

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    What parts that you put in 3 months ago has absolutely nothing to do with diagnosing today's problem. Have the battery charged and tested first and then test the charging system in the car. Don't remove the alternator and have it tested.

    2002 Hyundai Santa Fe will not start without a jump and won't stay running.

    Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
    Question From sayso on 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe will not start without a jump and won't stay running.

    My son's car is a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe. The vehicle was shuddering then the engine died and a message came on to check belts. From what we can see the belts seem ok. Since that time it has been jumped and will start (only when jumped) but will not continue to run. Both the alternator and the battery have been checked and both check out ok.

    Response From Hammer Time

    If jumping it makes a difference, then you have a battery issue among other possible issues.

    Response From sayso

    Would the battery still test ok if it had something wrong with it?

    Response From Hammer Time

    I don't have a lot of confidence in that testing. The bottom line is, if jumping the car makes a difference, all you are adding is battery power. You may also have a charging system problem that led to this.

    Response From sayso

    It is kind of strange but my son and husband took both the alternator and battery to another automotive store and they both checked out ok again. So they took them and put both back in the vehicle, it started up and he drove it home. I don't have any idea what the problem was but at least for now it is running again.

    Thanks for your advice and patience.

    Response From Hammer Time

    You probably had a bad connection at the battery.

    Response From speed

    if this problem comes back, I've had an alternator that had an intermittent failure with a piece inside of it...for the life of me i cannot think of the part name tho. but it would work sometimes and other times not, the power in the car would drop would have to keep the accelerator pressed to keep the car running. it totally drained the battery.


    (edit - don't like to touch a regular's posts here but will use my own "Google" tool bar's spell checker that will do yours and mine all at once!)

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    if this problem comes back, ive ahd an alternator that had an intermitten failure with a peice insid eof it...for the life of me i cannot think of the part name tho. but it would work sometimes and tother times not, the power in teh car would drop would ahve to keep theaccelerator pressed to keep the car running. it totaly drained the battery.

    Speed, You should start using your spell check.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Look back a couple posts. Love that Google speck program. Free download. Does whole pages! I need it if nothing more than to help catch typos. Just Google for the download and choose the tool bar from there. Can get rid of it in couple clicks if you don't like it,
    T

    Response From speed

    lol sometimes i get into a hurry haha.