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Shop below for all Alternator related parts for your Ford Thunderbird

Accessory Drive Belt
Accessory Drive Belt
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Pulley
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Pulley
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Alternator
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Alternator Bearing
Alternator Brush Holder
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Alternator Rectifier Set
Alternator Rectifier Set
Serpentine Belt
Serpentine Belt

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  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Powermaster, BBB Industries, Denso, Remy
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We also have Alternator parts for other Ford models, including Aspire, Bronco, Bronco II, Contour, Crown Victoria, E150, E150 Econoline, E150 Econoline Club Wagon, E250, E250 Econoline, E350 Club Wagon, E350 Econoline, E350 Econoline Club Wagon, E350 Super Duty, E450 Econoline Super Duty, E450 Super Duty, Edge, Escape, Escort, Excursion, Expedition, Explorer, Explorer Sport Trac, F100, F150, F250, F250 Super Duty, F350, F350 Super Duty, F450 Super Duty, F550 Super Duty, F53, F650, Fairlane, Festiva, Fiesta, Five Hundred, Flex, Focus, Freestar, Freestyle, Fusion, Galaxie 500, Mustang, Ranger, Taurus, Thunderbird, Transit Connect, Windstar.

Powermaster
1974 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 6.6L Powermaster - Alternator

P311-1D5F3F1    7078  New

Qty:
$133.52
Powermaster Alternator
  • Ford 1G; Early OE Look; 75 Amp; 55 Idle; 1V; OE Only; Externally Regulated; Natural
  • Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage: 75 Amp
  • Powermaster has a variety of alternators available for various applications.
Brand: Powermaster
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 6.6L 400 6555
Powermaster
1978 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 5.8L Powermaster - Alternator

P311-34D2A00    170781  New

Qty:
$186.20
Powermaster Alternator
  • Ford 1G; Early OE Look; 75 Amp; 55 Idle; 1V; 1 Wire; Externally Regulated; Chrome
  • Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage: 75 Amp
  • Powermaster has a variety of alternators available for various applications.
Brand: Powermaster
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Version Block Engine CID CC
1978 - Ford Thunderbird Windsor V 8 Cyl 5.8L 351 5753
Powermaster
1969 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 7.0L Powermaster - Alternator

P311-0590F53    17078  New

Qty:
$149.97
Powermaster Alternator
  • Ford 1G; Early OE Look; 75 Amp; 55 Idle; 1V; OE Only; Externally Regulated; Chrome
  • Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage: 75 Amp
  • Powermaster has a variety of alternators available for various applications.
Brand: Powermaster
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1969 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 7.0L 429 7030
BBB Industries
1983 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-1CA8A5B    7078  New

Qty:
$15.00 $32.44
  • 1-Groove Pulley 60 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1983 - Ford Thunderbird L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
BBB Industries
1983 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-1416DB6    7078DP  New

Qty:
$15.00 $32.85
  • 2-Groove Pulley 60 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1983 - Ford Thunderbird L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
BBB Industries
1968 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 6.4L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-56AC0D8    7058  New

Qty:
$15.00 $29.58
  • 55 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1968 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 6.4L 390 -
BBB Industries
1980 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 6 Cyl 3.3L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-457B672    7072-9  New

Qty:
$20.00 $65.49
  • w/Alt Plug 70 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Ford Thunderbird L 6 Cyl 3.3L 200 -
BBB Industries
1980 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 6 Cyl 3.3L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-1CA8A5B    7078  New

Qty:
$15.00 $32.44
  • wo/Alt Plug 1-Groove Pulley 60 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Ford Thunderbird L 6 Cyl 3.3L 200 -
BBB Industries
1980 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 6 Cyl 3.3L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-1416DB6    7078DP  New

Qty:
$15.00 $32.85
  • wo/Alt Plug 2-Groove Pulley 60 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Ford Thunderbird L 6 Cyl 3.3L 200 -
BBB Industries
1983 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 5.0L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-1CA8A5B    7078  New

Qty:
$15.00 $32.44
  • 60 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1983 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
BBB Industries
1968 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 7.0L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-56AC0D8    7058  New

Qty:
$15.00 $29.58
  • Std 55 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1968 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 7.0L 429 -
BBB Industries
1977 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 5.0L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-457B672    7072-9  New

Qty:
$20.00 $65.49
  • w/Alt Plug Std 70 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
BBB Industries
1979 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 5.8L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-457B672    7072-9  New

Qty:
$20.00 $65.49
  • w/9:00 Alt Plug 70 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1979 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 5.8L 351 5753
BBB Industries
1993 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 6 Cyl 3.8L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-59AC507    7735-10  New

Qty:
$25.00 $66.55
  • 75 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Ford Thunderbird Naturally Aspirated V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
BBB Industries
1996 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 6 Cyl 3.8L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-4BFAE63    7771-P57  New

Qty:
$40.00 $103.63
  • 130 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Ford Thunderbird V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
BBB Industries
1989 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 6 Cyl 3.8L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-59AC507    7735-10  New

Qty:
$25.00 $66.55
  • Opt 75 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Ford Thunderbird Naturally Aspirated V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
BBB Industries
1972 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 7.5L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-457B672    7072-9  New

Qty:
$20.00 $65.49
  • w/9:00 Alt Plug Std 70 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1972 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 7.5L 460 7539
BBB Industries
2002 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 3.9L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-141C449    8256  New

Qty:
$40.00 $109.38
  • 110 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Ford Thunderbird V 8 Cyl 3.9L 242 -
Denso
1997 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 4.6L Denso - Reman Alternator

P311-03A5267    210-5197  Remanufactured

213-3115E , F6PZ-10346-EARM2 , F6ZU-AC , F6PZ-10346-B , F6PZ-10346-EARM , 13-3121D , F6PU-10346-EB , F6ZU-AB , 7776 , F6PU-BA , F6PZ-10346-BRM , F6PU-10300-BA , 213-3118E , N7776 , 202001 , 321-1834 , F6ZU-AA , 1N-3115E , F6ZU-10300-AA , 19020558 , F6AU-10300-AA , 13-3118E , FOA351 , F6PZ-10346-EA , 321-1772 , AL7537X , 92308 , 7764 , 7776710 , F6PU-10346-BA , 13-3076D , 7776610 , F6AU-10300-AB , F6ZU-10300-AB , 213-3124D , 13-3115E , F6PZ-10346-EARM1 , 1866262 , A07776 , F6AU-AB , F6AU-AA , 334-2262 , 13-3124D , 20200 , 90-02-5076 , 133115E , F6ZU-10300-AC

Qty:
$34.00 $136.66
Denso Alternator
  • Remanufactured DENSO First Time Fit Alternator
  • 130 Amp First Time Fit
  • Reman Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 130
    • Family: Ford Oe
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Plug Type: 333
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • DENSO alternators are not only original equipment on many of the world's top production cars; they are a favorite in motorsports as well, where their light weight, high efficiency, and durability under the most demanding conditions make them the natural choice. Remanufactured DENSO alternators go through a grueling process. Stators and rectifiers are tested to 300 volts, while rotors are submitted to 600 volts, all to ensure reliable performance. Rotor slip rings are buffed to an 8 micron surface finish, with runout limited to 20 microns, minimizing brush wear and abrasion. Bearings are validated to OE standards and loaded with premium OE standard lubricants. New or remanufactured, a DENSO alternator is a quality component. Offered in versions from 40 to 160 amperes and beyond for hundreds of specific vehicle applications, all alternators meet DENSO's rigorous First Time Fit standards. Contemporary cars employ dozens of sophisticated electronic systems from bumper to bumper, placing heavy demands on the charging system. The alternator is no place to cut corners. DENSO First Time Fit alternators meet or exceed all manufacturer standards, mount properly with a minimum of installation issues, and provide years of reliable service. Features. Premium cores and precise OE assembly benchmarks; Design to meet the grueling heat and electrical requirements; First Time Fit provides perfect mounting with no belt/pulley alignment issues; Benefits. Service professionals preferred DENSO's alternators for a trouble free solution; OE quality fit, appearance, and durability; Full compatibility with sensitive electronics systems; Compact and lightweight design
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Ford Thunderbird W V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Remy
1985 Ford Thunderbird Alternator 8 Cyl 5.0L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-3ED1045    201554  Remanufactured

Qty:
$7.00 $62.85
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 65 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 65
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 7
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 55.0
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Ford Thunderbird F V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -

Latest Ford Thunderbird Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1989 Ford thunderbird sc stalls and cuts off

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Madero on 1989 Ford thunderbird sc stalls and cuts off

I have a 1989 ford thunderbird supercharged 5 speed 3.8, 173,000 miles on it. It starts up rough and if I can get it to stay started it dies out shortly after trying to drive it. I have had the clutch, fly wheel, starter, alternator, radiator fan replaced plus a tune-up in the last past year. Really not sure what the problem could be.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It started so nothing but a botched tune-up on that list counts for stalling right away. Vacuum leaks and the idle air control likely + clean the throttle body. IAC might take a cleaning and work if that is causing this,

T

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

What is your fuel pressure when you turn on the key and while cranking? Also, what is it while running? Do you know how to do a coil output test? Do you own or have access to a 12v test light?

1996 Ford Thunderbird Battery problem

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From smilette30 on 1996 Ford Thunderbird Battery problem

The battery light recently came on in the car and eventually on the way home lost power. Assuming it was the alternator, we replaced it. Took it out for a spin and within 5 miles the battery light came on and again, started to lose power. Bought a new battery ... took it out again ... same thing. Any other suggestions of what it could be?

Response From way2old

Check all the fuses. There is a fuse that controls the charging system in the under hood fuse panel. Let us know.

Response From Double J

I would also check the serpentine belt tensioner...
had many wear out and not keep enough tension on the belt-will cause the light to come on .

post back with results...

Jim

Response From smilette30 Top Rated Answer

Thanks guys. I will do that tonight and let you know what I find. I took it into town today to see if it would continue to do it. It was perfectly fine for about 10 miles or so. The battery light came on and I saw the needle start going down on the battery gauge. After a few minutes it went back to normal. It did it on and off til I got home. It seemed like when it kicked into gear is when the light would go off. Odd.

Response From Double J

Just had a windstar 3.0 do the same type thing,light came on and off while driving...
tensioner was weak,replaced it ,problem solved.

post back with results,
thanks.

jim

Response From way2old

With the added information of your last reply, the fuse is not the problem since the charging comes back up. Look as JIM N suggested.

My ford thunderbird 96 sounds like its got a fog horn from a ship

Showing 2 out of 28 Posts | Show 26 Hidden Posts
Question From Tignewspapergirl on My ford thunderbird 96 sounds like its got a fog horn from a ship

Ford thunderbird 96 4.6eng 171+mil. I start the car n the engine makes a fog horn hum. I rev the engine n it goes away. It comes back more n more n now I notice its even doing it on the freeway going 70mph. My car also takes alot of battery since I deliver newspapers n for an hour and 45mins or so and now I notice its not charging the battery when its running the engine fan to cool down. Whats causing this and how do I fix it? Is it my altinator, a pump, air flow loss?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Guess: Fans, alternator or belt tensioner not working. Car should charge properly with a known good battery new or not for low speed driving,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Open the air cleaner and lift up on the top so you can hear the inside of the ducting while the engine is running. If the hooting noise is really loud in the ducting, replace the idle air control valve.

Watch this video and you'll understand:


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good one DS - works for me............



Tom

Response From Tignewspapergirl

Ok so I tried it and it stil made the noise. I did find a black box attached to tubes that lead from the air filter to the engine that seems to be the source of the noise. Its like the engine isnt getting enough air intake. Im going to replace it and see if thats the real source of my fog horn noise. By the way thank you so much for ur help, I would never have figured out trying that.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

All that "snorkeling" crap for air intake needs be in order AND in good shape. Glad you found it,

Tom

Response From Tignewspapergirl

I replaced the AIC and now it sounds great. New problem, now it hesitates from a stop when I step on the gas. Any suggestions?

Response From Mr.scotty

Has it had a tune up in the past 40,000 miles?

Response From Tignewspapergirl

Yes it's had a tune up. spark plugs changed and spark plug cables changed.

Someone suggested its a ECM try to reset or relearn and to just drive normal for 20-50miles. Is it safe to do so with the hesitation or should I take it to a shop and have them reset the ECM?

Would the hesitation be caused by the now better air flow and not enough/too much gas ratio?

Response From Mr.scotty

I would have the car scanned for any stored codes, if there is one then reset the ECM and go through the drive cycle and see how it is after that. There might be a code stored from your last problem.

Response From Tignewspapergirl

Alright got it scanned and the EGR readings were high so replaced the EGR valve and now its back to normal! Wwwwwwwooooooooooooohhhhhhhhooooooooooo!!

Sorry for my excitment, I just love having my car back n knowing this site helped solve my problems. Thank you big time to the guys that replied to my posting and knew what the problem was when 10 other auto people didnt. Thank you thank you thank you

Response From Mr.scotty

That's what we all are here for.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Here are your stars Scotty.............



Smile - the pay here wouldn't let you smell a coffee from Starbucks but not the point,

Tom with my admiration...............

Response From Mr.scotty

Thanks Tom, I think you, DS, and I need to split them three ways on this one though.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just plain thumbs up..............



Elvis lives on forever,

Tom

Response From Tignewspapergirl

Well so I thought it was fixed but now I have a problem. It still acts like it doesn't want to go when im at a stop and when I idle long enough it acts even worse. I was told its fine and to just drive it the way it is but because of my occupation i can't have my car die on me 60 times whenever i have to idle to porch a paper. So heres my question, now that the EGR valve and AIC valve have been replaced, what could be making the car want to not go?

The scan I had done on my car was apparently only for the EGR reading being too high so if I have it scanned again will it show me whats really wrong or just another little thing that doesn't have to do with this problem?

this is frustrating.

Response From Mr.scotty

Sorry to hear you have problems again.
So it sounds like your saying the car wants to stall at idle?
Has it been checked for proper fuel pressure or vacuum leaks?
Is the check engine light on?
Anytime the check engine light is on have the code(s) read and post the number(s).

Response From Tignewspapergirl

Yes the check engine light is still on.

Its more like when u step on the gas n u tap the petal but ur not. Ive looked for any vacuum hoses off and seen nothing. Not sure how i'd check the gass pressure.

Ill see if I can get it scanned again and this time get the information.

Response From Mr.scotty

Ok, the codes will helps us alot.
Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

Just curious. Did you have this hesitation problem before changing your IAC? IF not, you might want to inspect your air intake ducting. Make sure all your hoses are attached to it and the clamps are tight. Inspect your ducting and intake hoses for rips or damage.

Make sure your MAF sensor is plugged in and there isn't anything sticking to the MAF sensor elements. A MAF reading lower air flow than it should could cause hesitation. Not telling you to replace the MAF, just do a visual inspection.

Response From Tignewspapergirl

It hesitated after I replaced the AIC valve. I first looked at the MAF sensor first when I had the hum problem. Maybe its not working. Someone said to start the car n unplug the MAF sesnor eletric n rev the engine, if it dies then its not working. I do remember it hesitating n wanting to die more. Whats ur opinion?

Im gonna try n make a short video tomorrow of this problem.

Oh n is ok to drive in 2nd gear all the time, when I tried that it didnt hesitate as much. Only when I have to wait at a light for a while.

Response From Discretesignals

What brand IAC valve did you get? Did you replace the IAC gasket too. Most of the time the IAC gasket is sold separate.

Response From Tignewspapergirl

I got the cheaper one from kragen n it came with a new gasket. I hear parts from there dont last as long as the dealer ones but its all I can afford right now. Besides trying to come up with cash for a maf sensor too. Im hoping my sensor just went out but not holding my breath that it wont.

Response From way2old

Go to your local Ford dealer and ask them for a "hooter tube". It is an air bypass device that will set up a harmonic thrum and cause a humming, hooting noise sort of like you described in your initial post.

Response From Discretesignals

Well, that is a first. "Hooter tube". Did they redesign the tube? I always though the IAC was causing the noise from the valve pintle vibrating. I don' think the hooter tube would cause a hesitation unless it got damaged replacing the IAC valve.

Something had to happen during the installation of the IAC to now cause this hesitation problem.
You could put the old IAC valve back on and see if your hesitation goes away. If it does, maybe you got a defective IAC.

Really don't see the actual EGR valve go bad on those. Usually it is either DPFE, REF and HI hoses deteriorated, the EGR feed tube is plugged up, or the EGR port is clogged under the intermediate throttle body. Usually the clogs are happening because the engine is burning oil from bad valve guide seals. Lost count how many older 4.6L that I have seen that smoke after taking off from a stop light.

Response From Tignewspapergirl

The AIC valve fixed my initial problem. Something I didnt mention before was that we tried driving with the hose going into the valve to see if that got rid of the noise n it did but before coming to this site I was driving with that sound for nearly 4 months. When I heard the sound i'd rev the engine n it would go away. After a while I would have to sit at a stop light with my foot on both the gas n brake to keep the rpms up to not make the sound. My folks are thinking its the fuel filter, since i'm not having the air intaks problem, it would have to be gas that the engine isnt getting. This weekend im getting the fuel filter replaced and crossing fingers its correct otherwise ill be trouble shooting witb you guys some more.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Long thread already - no problem. Never hurts to replace the fuel filter but I seriously doubt one can make noise of any kind,

T

Response From Tignewspapergirl



Thats the short video of what we thought was making the fog horn sound, the black box between the tubes that fed into the AIC valve. The tube that it goes to was the AIC valve and after replacing that the sound went away. Now the problem is the hesitating after idling for a while. If I idle long enough it actually dies. Does this help any? I still haven't replaced the fuel filter and when the Mass Air Flow sensor was disconnected it still ran the same so do you think the MAF is the source?

http://m.youtube.com/index?
desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US&rdm=4nyrj9znn&reload=3#/watch?v=y-ti3ztgJIc

this is the video of what my car is doing.

Like i said before, my problem now is not the noise, its the not wanting to go from a stop and dying when idling at a stop light too long.

*** conclusion***
Bought a scanner n had the code p0102 on it. Replaced the MAF sensor n now it fixed.

Thank you again for the help n suggestiions. If I could email a beer I would but it would probably be flat so a big THANK YOU