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Remy
1980 Ford Fiesta Alternator Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-307ED2A    20144  Remanufactured

D0TF-10300-J , E1ZF-10300-DA , C6TF-10346-D , D4ZF-10300-BA , D0TF-10300-F , D2TF-10300-CB , C6TF-10300-B , D1OF-10346-CA , D5AF-10346-CA , D4OZ-10346-C , C5TF-10346-AG , D3OF-10300-FA , D6FF-10300-DA , D5AF-10300-BA , D2TF-10300-DB , E1EF-10300-MA , D3TF-10300-BA , C7SF-10300-CDE , C5TF-10300-C , D9ZZ-10346-A , D2AF-10346-CA , C6TF-10300-K , E1EF-10300-JA , D2OF-10300-DA , D0TF-10300-C , D2TF-10300-BD , E27F-10300-AA , C5TZ-10346-AG , D42F-10300-EA , D2AF-10300-AB , D2TF-10300-AC , C6DF-10300-AB , D2ZF-10300-AC , E1EF-10300-LA , C5AF-10300-E , C6AF-10300-AB , D2OF-10300-DB , D2TF-10300-BB , D42F-10300-DA , C6AF-10300-CD , D2AF-10300-BA , C6TF-10300-L , C7TF-10300-CDE , E4TF-10300-AA , D0AF-10300-G , C5AF-10346-A , D2AF-10300-BB , D2TF-10300-BC , E4UF-10300-AA , C6DF-10300-C , D0TF-10346-C , E1ZF-10346-AA , D2TF-10300-AB , E3FF-10346-BA , D7AF-10346-CA , D52F-10300-AA , C5TZ-10346-A , C5TF-10300-B , C9AF-10300-C , C6GF-10300-AB , C6AF-10300-E , D0AF-10300-C , D1ZF-10300-AA , D7AZ-10346-C , C6TF-10300-M , E1EF-10300-FB , C9ZF-10300-A , D2OF-10300-EA , C5DF-10346-AB , D0AZ-10346-AE , C6AF-10346-A , D5AZ-10346-C , D0ZF-10346-B , D2TF-10300-AA , D42F-10300-FA , C6TF-10300-D , D20F-10346-DA , D4TF-10300-AA , D2AF-10300-AA , D4OF-10300-AA , D5AF-10300-JA , E3EF-10300-BA , C5AF-10300-AB , C9AF-10300-A , D2SF-10300-AC , C6AF-10346-B , E1ZF-10300-AA , C5DZ-10346-AB , D0ZF-10300-B , D8ZF-10346-AA , C5TF-10300-Z , D0AF-10346-E , E47F-10300-CA , D4OF-10346-CA , D3TF-10300-CA , D0AF-10300-F , D2SF-10300-A , D8ZF-10300-EA , D7AF-10300-AA , D42F-10300-AA , D7AF-10300-JA , C6TF-10300-C , D2OF-10300-FA , C5TF-10300-D , D2SF-10300-AA , D5AF-10300-AA , D0TF-10300-D , C7ZF-10300-A , D0TF-10300-E , D8ZF-10300-AA , C5TF-10300-A , D7AF-10300-BA , D2OF-10300-BA , D2TF-10300-BA , C5DF-10300-AB , D2OF-10346-GA , E1ZZ-10346-A , C5AZ-10346-A , D2ZF-10300-AB , D2ZF-10300-BA , D2AZ-10346-C , C6AF-10300-A , C5AF-10300-CD , E3EF-10346-BA

Qty:
$7.00 $68.04
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with Ford Alt, wo/ AC; 42 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 42
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 7
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 71.0
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Ford Fiesta
Remy
1980 Ford Fiesta Alternator Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-0DE9298    20155  Remanufactured

D2HF-10300-AB , D2AF-10300-CA , D5AF-10346-BA , D0SF-10300-A , D9HT-10300-DA , D0AF-10300-E , D4LF-10300-CA , D0TF-10300-K , D5AF-10300-DA , D8VF-10346-AA , D9VF-10346-AA , D0TZ-10346-C , D6FF-10300-CA , D2AF-10346-DA , D2AF-10346-BA , D4OF-10300-FA , D5AF-10300-LA , E1EF-10300-HA , D7ZF-10346-AA , C6TF-10300-G , E4TF-10300-BA , 10463270 , C6TF-10346-A , D8BF-10300-CA , D9VY-10346-B , D9VY-10346-A , D9BZ-10346-A , E1BZ-10346-B , D4LF-10300-AA , D2OF-10346-HA , D2ZF-10300-BB , E2BF-10300-AA , E1BF-10300-AA , D7AF-10300-LA , E1HT-10300-BA , D2OF-10300-CB , D9UF-10300-DA , E47F-10300-BA , D4OZ-10346-A , D8BF-10346-AA , D1AF-10300-AA , D0TF-10300-G , C5AF-10300-G , C5TF-10300-EFJ , D4LF-10300-DA , E1ZF-10300-BA , C5AF-10300-FG , E1AF-10300-CA , 12307721 , D8BF-10300-BA , E1BF-10346-AA , E2GZ-10346-C , D7AF-10346-BA , D2OF-10346-FA , C6TF-10300-AK , E1BF-10346-BA , D5AZ-10346-B , D2DF-10300-AC , E1ZF-10300-CA , D22F-10300-BA , E37F-10300-DA , C5TF-10300-F , D4OF-10300-CA , C9ZF-10300-C , D9VF-10300-AA , D4AF-10346-AA , D9ZF-10346-AA , D9VY-10346-AA , C6TF-10300-E , E6SF-10300-EA , D2TF-10300-DC , C5TF-10300-J , D3HF-10300-DA , D0LF-10300-H , D2HF-10300-AA , E27F-10300-BA , C7SF-10300-B , D2OF-10346-JA , D7AF-10300-HA , E47F-10300-AA , E6HZ-10346-A , D7TF-10300-BA , 12303159 , C6VF-10346-A , D0AZ-10346-F , D40F-10300-DA , D4UF-10300-AA , E37F-10300-CA , D2TZ-10346-BA , E1HT-10300-AA , D5AF-10300-KA , E1EF-10300-EB , D2HF-10300-AC , D7TF-10300-CA , D4OF-10346-AA , D3OF-10300-BA , D3DF-10300-AA , D5AF-10300-FA , D0ZZ-10346-B , D2UF-10300-AB , D32F-10300-BA , D2OF-10300-EB , D8BF-10346-BA , C6TF-10300-AL , D2ZF-10346-BA , D0AF-10346-CF , D4OF-10300-BA , D2TZ-10346-B , D7AF-10300-DA , D6FF-10300-BA , D94F-10300-AA , C6TF-10346-B , D0TF-10346-B , D9UF-10300-BA , D2ZZ-10346-B , D2UF-10300-AA , D0ZF-10300-C , D4DF-10300-AA , C5TF-10300-E , D8ZF-10300-HA , D2DF-10300-AB , D3OF-10300-EA , E1TF-10300-AA , D7AF-10300-GA , C6VY-10346-A , D7AF-10346-AA , D7TF-10300-AA , D9HT-10300-EA , C9ZZ-10346-B , C5TZ-10346-BH , EDD8BF-10300-BA , D2AZ-10346-D , D4OF-10346-BA , D3TF-10300-DA , D7AF-10300-KA , D9UF-10300-AA , D9AF-10300-BA , E1BF-10300-HA , D2TF-10300-EA , D5AF-10300-HA , D2UF-10300-AC , C6AF-10300-FG , D30F-10300-BA , 10463269 , D0ZF-10300-A , E1GF-10300-DA , E3ZF-10300-BA , C9SF-10300-A , D5AF-10300-CA , D7AZ-10346-A , D2SF-10300-AB , D8ZF-10300-BA , D0UF-10300-A , C5TF-10346-BH , D5AF-10300-EA , D7AF-10300-FA , E1ZF-10300-FA , D3UF-10300-AA , D2OF-10346-CA , E3ZF-10300-EA , D2TF-10300-EB , D9ZF-10300-AA , D8ZE-10300-CA , D9BZ-10346-B , D5AF-10300-GA , D2TF-10346-BA , C5AF-10300-F , D3OF-10300-CA , D2OF-10346-KA , C6TF-10300-H , D2TF-10300-EC , E37F-10300-BA , E6SF-10300-DA , D4OF-10300-DA , D5AZ-10346-A , E0TF-10300-AA , E0SF-10300-AA , D4LF-10300-BA , D2TF-10300-CC , E4ZF-10300-CA , D8ZZ-10346-A , D4OZ-10346-B , D3OF-10300-DA , D7AF-10300-EA , C6TF-10300-AJ , E3TF-10300-BA , D42F-10300-BA , D5AF-10346-AA , C6VF-10346-B , E1GF-10346-EA , D2OF-10300-CA , D2OF-10300-BB , D8ZF-10300-CA , C6TF-10300-AH , D7AZ-10346-B , C7SF-10300-A , D7AF-10300-CA , D9UF-10300-CA , C9ZF-10300-B , D40F-10300-BA , D2OF-10300-FB , D8BF-10300-AA , C6TF-10300-F , E4ZF-10300-BA , E4TF-10300-CA

Qty:
$7.00 $32.85
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with Ford Alt, with AC; Can Use, Requires Reuse Of Original Pulley; 65 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 65
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 7
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 71.0
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Ford Fiesta
Remy
1980 Ford Fiesta Alternator Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-1AC3090    20514  Remanufactured

D4OF-10300-FA , D9BZ-10346-B , D7TF-10300-CA , C5AF-10300-F , D7AF-10300-DA , D2ZF-10300-BB , C6TF-10346-B , D3OF-10300-BA , D2HF-10300-AC , D4OF-10346-AA , D42F-10300-BA , D5AF-10346-BA , C6VF-10346-A , D8BF-10300-BA , E3ZF-10300-BA , D3TF-10300-DA , E4ZF-10300-CA , D0UF-10300-A , D4DF-10300-AA , D2TF-10300-EB , D2TF-10300-EC , C6TF-10300-AH , D8BF-10300-AA , D40F-10300-BA , D2OF-10300-FB , D2TF-10300-EA , D30F-10300-BA , D2HF-10300-AB , D2AF-10346-DA , D9UF-10300-BA , D9VY-10346-AA , D7AF-10346-AA , D0ZZ-10346-B , D2ZF-10346-BA , D4AF-10346-AA , D2OF-10300-CB , E3ZF-10300-EA , D0ZF-10300-A , C5TF-10346-BH , D0TF-10346-B , C9SF-10300-A , D2AF-10300-CA , C6TF-10300-G , D7AF-10300-LA , D6FF-10300-CA , C5TF-10300-J , E1HT-10300-BA , E1BF-10300-AA , D2TF-10300-DC , C9ZF-10300-C , D5AF-10300-EA , D2TF-10346-BA , D9HT-10300-EA , E1BF-10346-AA , D7AF-10346-BA , E1GF-10346-EA , E1ZF-10300-CA , D7AZ-10346-A , D40F-10300-DA , E2GZ-10346-C , D7TF-10300-BA , D0ZF-10300-C , D2OF-10346-CA , D5AF-10300-FA , D2UF-10300-AC , D2UF-10300-AA , C6TF-10300-AK , D2OF-10300-EB , D9VF-10300-AA , D2AZ-10346-D , C5TF-10300-EFJ , C5AF-10300-G , D8BF-10346-AA , C5TZ-10346-BH , D5AZ-10346-A , D4OF-10300-CA , D0AF-10346-CF , D2HF-10300-AA , D9ZF-10346-AA , C6TF-10300-AL , C6TF-10300-H , D0LF-10300-H , D5AF-10300-DA , E37F-10300-CA , E4ZF-10300-BA , D5AF-10300-CA , C6TF-10346-A , D7AF-10300-FA , D2TZ-10346-BA , D2UF-10300-AB , E37F-10300-BA , D4OF-10346-BA , E0SF-10300-AA , D9VY-10346-A , D4UF-10300-AA , C6VF-10346-B , C6TF-10300-E , D4LF-10300-CA , D4LF-10300-AA , D4OF-10300-BA , D9VY-10346-B , D8ZE-10300-CA , C7SF-10300-B , D4OZ-10346-B , D22F-10300-BA , D1AF-10300-AA , D32F-10300-BA , E1BF-10300-HA , D8ZF-10300-CA , D3OF-10300-EA , E1BZ-10346-B , D2OF-10300-CA , D7AF-10300-GA , D2TF-10300-CC , D4OF-10300-DA , D0AF-10300-E , D2SF-10300-AB , D7AZ-10346-B , D2OF-10346-FA , D8BF-10346-BA , D4OZ-10346-A , D94F-10300-AA , D0TZ-10346-C , E1BF-10346-BA , D2TZ-10346-B , D7AF-10300-CA , D5AF-10300-HA , D0TF-10300-K , D5AZ-10346-B , D9BZ-10346-A , D2OF-10300-BB , D0TF-10300-G , C9ZZ-10346-B , D6FF-10300-BA , C6TF-10300-AJ , C6AF-10300-FG , D3HF-10300-DA , D9VF-10346-AA , C6TF-10300-F , C5TF-10300-E , C5AF-10300-FG , C7SF-10300-A , D0AZ-10346-F , D0SF-10300-A , D7AF-10300-EA , C5TF-10300-F , C6VY-10346-A , D8VF-10346-AA

Qty:
$15.00 $68.04
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with Ford Alt, with AC; 60 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 7
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 72.0
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Ford Fiesta
Remy
1980 Ford Fiesta Alternator Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-3A9EB6F    13107  Remanufactured

0-120-489-617 , D6RY-10346-C , 79BB-10300-AD , 510-155 , 0-120-489-050 , 0-120-489-594 , 0-120-489-666 , 0-120-489-509 , 0-120-489-590 , 0-120-489-090 , D6RY-10346-N , 0-120-489-345 , D6RY-10346-H , D5RY-10346-F , 432825 , 0-120-489-706 , 0-120-489-842 , 0-120-489-508 , 510-122 , 0-120-489-844 , 0-120-489-244 , 9AR2539K , 0-120-489-048 , 0-120-489-849 , 0-120-489-091 , 0-120-489-561 , 9AR2561K , D5RY-10346-E , 77FB-10300-KA , 0-120-489-562 , 9AR2630K , 0-120-489-595 , 0-120-489-843 , 0-120-489-667 , 0-120-489-589 , 75EB-10300-EA , D6RY-10346-L , 0-120-489-175 , 0-120-489-616 , D8RZ-10346-A , D6RY-10346-P

Qty:
$5.00 $74.36
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with Bosch Alt; 55 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 5
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 67.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Ford Fiesta
Remy
2018 Ford Fiesta Alternator 4 Cyl 1.6L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-4734D73    23011  Remanufactured

BE8Z-10346-A , TG12C098 , 2608513

Qty:
$50.00 $183.91
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 120 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 2
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 48.3
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Ford Fiesta Titanium L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1596
Remy
2017 Ford Fiesta Alternator 3 Cyl 1.0L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-5C41DF9    23029  Remanufactured

104211-8850 , D2BT-10300-AA , D2BZ-10346-A

Qty:
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 150 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 150
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 11
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 48.2
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Ford Fiesta L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 999
Remy
2018 Ford Fiesta Alternator 4 Cyl 1.6L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-0163063    23032  Remanufactured

BV6Z-10346-G , TG12C107 , BV6N-10300-AA

Qty:
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 120 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 9
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 51.3
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Ford Fiesta ST L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1596

Latest Ford Fiesta Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

ford fiesta will not start

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From nelle2808 on ford fiesta will not start

2004 FORD FIESTA FINESSE
1.4 SEMI-AUTO,
52,000

Hi everyone hope you can help me, i have had some work on my car ie, head gasket done and some more stuff at ford itself all was great running well i was over the moon until few weeks later i got in it one morning and it wouldn't start, i got someone to give me jump-start and it fired up straight away drove around in it for a while and all was fine the next morning i went to start it and nothing again tried jumpstart and still wont start, swapped battery with mums car hers fires up fine and mine still nothing the lights on dash light up when i turn key absolutely nothing at all, any suggestions ? really need some help x

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Question? towards a guess for the trouble: Note - This car not sold to the US, TMK but not the issue I think.


When you say "nothing happens" do you mean not starting and not a noise at all? Also, does all power quit just for the time you turn key to "start" position? If so it would also likely reset a clock and radio settings a strong clue.


With the work the battery and again you replacing it the connecting ends may have had it? If stressed out, corroded or unable to tighten up and clean that would be the likely problem right there.


Note again: Not all jumper cables are all that good in fact most really stink. So that alone is inconclusive so still think cable ends are the problem. If you can twist then with pliers and they turn while tight even more so likely.


So: If that's on the right track you need to find out if whole new cables are available or high quality cable ends (huge difference in qualities out there don't cheap out) may be the way and be properly spliced in.


The other ends of each cable matter just as much.


Know this: IF you do this yourself always take negative cable off battery first, do what you need to and when done it goes on LAST.


Guess as said but most likely,


T

Response From nelle2808

Yes when i turn key there is no sound at all, the lights go out on dashboard and then come back on.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There is no question that you have a current supply problem from the battery. The question is why/ First thing to do is have the battery fully charged and tested for health. Check all the battery connections. If the battery is bad replace it. If the battery and connections test good, then you may have a parasitic drain on the battery overnight. I will give you a way to test for that but firsrt I need to warn you that is you continue to jump start a completely dead battery and relay on the car to recharge it, you will soon be buying an alternator. It is not designed to bring back a totally dead battery and will give out.


BATTERY DRAW PROCEDURE


There is a procedure for finding a battery draw like that.

You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.

2011 Ford Fiesta Engine Failure: Drive Belt? Timing Belt?

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From johnson450 on 2011 Ford Fiesta Engine Failure: Drive Belt? Timing Belt?

Hi there. I'll be honest, I know nothing about cars so I am hoping that, with my vague descriptions, someone can help me. I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta (70k miles) that I bought new. I have always maintained my car's oil and performed other routine maintenance, really, I've never had a problem with the car until now. I was taking my son home from daycare when the autotrack and stability lights came one. The car was making some grumbles, so I pulled over as soon as I could, and then after I stopped, all of the lights came on ( oil, check engine, etc.). I turned the car off and it wouldn't start again.

I had the car towed to Ford on July 25 and it is now September 18th. They have given me the absolute run around. First, they said my engine had no oil and that I didn't change the oil and this ruined my engine. I showed them my records. They pulled the car apart and said that it looks like something happened with the timing belt. They weren't happy with my records ( my ex that was a mechanic changed some of my oil) but I had all of the receipts with the correct oil and filter. They tried to tell me that this may not hold up for the warranty. They said they couldn't prove it was for my car ( but I knew better, they can't deny my warranty for that). Well, they ordered the timing belt and after they started to put it on they called me and said they found a bent pulley which had let all of the oil out of my engine. They told me it looked like I hit something and to call my insurance company. USAA, my ins. company, appraised the car and said there was no point of impact and that I didn't hit anything. Ford looked at the engine again and said that my drive belt had shredded, fallen into the engine, and basically rendered it useless. I need a new engine and the drive belt isn't covered under warranty so I have to pay out of pocket for the engine.

This seems fishy to me. My drive belt is not supposed to be checked until 100k and not replaced until 150k, and they have fought the warranty from the beginning. I have been consulting a lawyer and now I am wondering if I should get a second opinion from a non-Ford mechanic. Are there any alternatives to my engine failure? I was told that if I had somehow lost oil, that my engine would have locked up and ripped the drive belt out of place. Should they be looking at how I lost the oil or is this drive belt shredding a reasonable answer?

Thanks.

Brittany

Response From Discretesignals

Usually when a timing belt goes the engine shuts off. It can break if it is worn out enough and pop while starting the engine causing the engine to not start also.

What I don't get is they stated your engine is toast because it had no oil in it, but even though they stated that they ordered a timing belt and were in the process of installing it.

You really need to have someone or yourself go to the dealership and have them explain what is going on and show you visually what happened. I suggest you bring your mechanic ex husband with you.

Response From johnson450 Top Rated Answer

I really appreciate your advice. I have gone down there several times but I suppose that because I am a woman they think I don't know when to ask questions. My ex and I are on pretty bad terms, but I am going to see if I can find someone that can do this with me. Do you have any guesses on why the drive belt may have shredded, aside from defect? The thing is only at half its life... just trying to cover all of my bases so when I start questioning Ford they know that I have been looking into this.


** They said that the drive belt had shredded and worked its way into the timing belt which bent all of the valves. Everything is scored engine must be replaced.

I just requested a written diagnosis for my car and that is what they faxed me.

Response From Discretesignals

Your correct that normally a drive belt shouldn't be shredding at that mileage and age. Without looking at it can't really give you an answer to why it failed prematurely.

It's possible that a shredded belt could make its way into the timing belt and damage or derail it. The engine is not an interference, so it shouldn't bend any valves. The manufacture recommends replacing the timing belt at 60K.

There are a whole lot of possibilities, but without looking at it or hearing the other side of the story, there is no way to give you an accurate assessment.

'96 Fiesta engine cut out on ACCELLERATION

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From lukai on '96 Fiesta engine cut out on ACCELLERATION

Hi,
I was making the point above that my engine cut out while accelerating, not deceleating like I have seen a number of threads about.
My car is a '96 ford Fiesta 1.25L Petrol, 105,000 miles.
I was driving home last night and started to accellerate onto the dual carriageway off a slip road when the engine cut out. I noticed the lights dimmed a little but I can not recall if this was before or after the cut out. Prior to accelerating I had decellerated slightly to take a sharp corner, I go this way every day though and have never had this problem.
I tried the ignition but got nothing (at all), the funny thing is all the electrics were still working, it was just the engine I could get no response from.
when the AA guy turned up he tested the batttery which read 11.8V (not bad for a 12V battery I think) and then put his charger on and started the engine, it roared into life!
I really don't know what the problem could be, if it was an alternator fault I would expect the battery to be more drained and the electrics to not work; if it was the starter motor that doesn't explain why it cut out while running.
The AA guy suggested that it could be in intermittant fault with the alternator which sounds like a rough translation of "I don't have the foggiest" (not to be harsh becuase he really helped me out)

Can anyone shed some light?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

11.8v is a BAD sign for a battery just sitting there. Close is for "Horse Shoes (the game)" and Hand Gredades.

Have the alternator tested for output but you need a known good, charged battery to get accurate results for testing on car.

Checks of belt(s) and tension also needed,

T

Need help with Ford Fiesta Zetec 2010 1.4

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From kath141 on Need help with Ford Fiesta Zetec 2010 1.4

Hi!

I was having car problems (crank but no start) and had to get someone to jump start the car.

Drove it around for a couple of hours each day then one day it went again.

Bought a charger but when i took out the battery to charge it the charger went green straight away so i put it back in.

After i put it back in the car date came on and the theft lights on but the car wont lock or "turn off".

How do i sort this out? P.s i haven't actually tried the battery out yet because i am concerned (and scared something mental will happen) should i try it?

Thank you!!
Kat

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not understanding you totally. It cranks but doesn't start but you got a jump and it did I take it? Then drove it around enough it seems so battery itself would be or show charged.


What problems were/are you having leading up to this? Taking the battery OUT you have no doubt set the anti-theft system to activate and need to at least go thru what ever your procedure is for the car to undo that first.


Wildest guess so far is the battery connections are probably what is wrong and enough to run but not always crank well and enough to charge while it's running.


Taking out or disconnecting a battery also resets things all over. Use a memory saver and know how to use it or expect to go thru procedures as it someone tried to steal the car to reset that as well,


T

Response From kath141

Hey!

Sorry! Yeah, leading up to the jump start it was taking a while to start then one day it was cranking but not starting so i phoned up a mechanic and he jump started it.

After that it was fine until i left it for a day then when i went back it, it was cranking again but not starting so i thought it need to be fully charged up so i got a battery charger.

The battery connections. Hmm...i just got it serviced a month a go they should have checked those things right?

Ah! Ok then! I will have a look in the handbook for resetting.

Thank you!!!
Kat.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

First thing is to know your antitheft system either original or aftermarket know how to set and allow it to run as that will be part of the game.


It took a jump and ran so probably just needed more power - know that most "POWER" (amps) is used to crank the engine not just run everything else which while running the alternator does for you and recharges what it lost to start it and seems it did.


That leaves with a "green" light showing when you went to charge it any of......... faulty charger, battery fine but now less amps (power again) than needed or connections weak at battery or other ends of battery cables maybe too. NO - that wouldn't be on an ordinary service for most unless you requested it specially and should now and then.


You probably now set off the alarm such that car thinks it's being stolen AND a weak battery but would show correct voltage for a charger likely what you saw. It was like 1/5th of what it should be to assertively start the car cold - guess. You have to either have it LOAD tested or watch voltages while cranking is a good clue as to how much of what it has gets sucked out to "crank" the engine.


Not sure you understand what I mean. Battery loses let's say horsepower over time and use. So when charged and new was 100% of what it was rated for horsepower (amps) and now less but holds voltage for a quick check. None last forever and nice to know how old it is if you have to write it down on the battery that somewhere after 3-4 years the drop off rate is fast for a sudden problem.


1. Know your theft control system.


2. Charge, load check and or replace battery as needed and still clean terminals.


I kinda think that's about all this really needs for now,


T

Response From kath141

Hey!

Ok then! Nah, i get you! I was thinking of buying a load tester when i got the charger. Silly me i should have. Ah well! :P Thank you so much!

I think i will call up the garage tomorrow so they can come and see it. I have had the car for about 4 years now so a new battery might be due.

I have cleaned the terminals and i will ask them to load test it for me. :P We will wait and see!

Thank you so much!! xxx
Take care!
Kat.

Response From Hammer Time

Your charger cannot tell ypou the condition of your battery. You should remove the battery and bring it in for testing and replace it if it fails testing.

Response From kath141

Hey!

Yeah, thank you! I will! Hopefully it's just the battery and nothing else.

Lol! Thank you guys!! So much! I will definitely use a sharpie!

Hopefully this will be sorted out in a couple of days! Will definitely let you know.

Take care!
Kat!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Load test trick: You actually want to see the voltage drop while under load is really enough for me MOST times.


When without tools all over the place you can get an idea by just look at a dome light or reading light (night helps) and watch how much it dims just during the cranking part or starting. It will dim some but if lots it suggests voltage is dropping too far just for that critical time to run. All items get low voltage that make it run/start and cranking might even be slow - none of that helps a thing.


If you get a voltmeter you want a fast reading one. While cranking, voltage shouldn't ever drop below say 9V and better if not below 10V+ on a good, fully charged battery with proper amps available for the car. Cold matters a lot so weaker ones show up when colder.


Sorry if not fast to get back. I'm in Blizzard hell Northeast US about anywhere it's too much and isn't stopping and when it does expected to go WAY below ZERO and nothing above 32F in forecast. Even I start outdoor vehicles till warmed up when that extreme is expected till engine is warm. Always know battery age to the month - they are marked or encrypted but an old phart like me finds a silver sharpie easier to read


Good luck with your fix and let us know how you made out,


T

Jumping a car - Motor dying once the cable is removed

Showing 4 out of 7 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From bkreulen on Jumping a car - Motor dying once the cable is removed

Hello all,

I have a Ford Fiesta, 1995 (around there), manual trans. I don't remember exactly how many miles it's got on it, but it's definitely been around the block. I don't know the engine size.....

Yesterday I tried to jump start my car, because it hasn't been used in a long time, and the battery is dead. I jumped it, and let the motor run a little. Everything seemed fine until I unhooked the cables. The motor immediately stopped. I tried again, but this time I let the motor run about five minutes before disconnecting the cables, to let the battery charge up a little bit. The same thing happened when I disconnected the cables: the motor immediately died. The battery is about a year old, but it hasn't been used that much, and looks to be in good shape (no leaking, rust, or other stuff).

I always thought that once the motor has started, the battery wasn't used anymore, that in fact the motor was charging the battery. Am I wrong about this? What's going on? Should I let the battery charge a little while longer, or is there something more serious going on?

Thanks for your help!

Response From Discretesignals

Remove the battery and have it tested to be sure it is good.

With a fully charged battery or a replacement battery installed connect a volt meter to the battery terminals and measure the charging voltage when the engine is running. Charging voltage should be around 13.5-14.5 volts.

Disconnecting the battery cables while the engine is running to see if the alternator is operational is a good way to fry solid state electrical components inside of electronic modules.

Response From bkreulen

Thanks for the reply!

I'll take it out and have it checked.... and I didn't know about removing the cables while the engine was running.... :-(

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That remove the battery cable(s) as any indicator ended with generators which haven't been used in decades on end. I didn't think anyone was still alive that would remember that hillbilly trick and then it wasn't the right way to test anything

T

Response From Hammer Time

It's the jumper cables that he removed, not the battery cables.

Response From Discretesignals

HT your probably right there.

I apologize to the OP. If it is the jumper cables you removed while the engine is running, that is ok. If you remove the jumper cables and the engine quits, your alternator isn't doing anything. It still is important to make sure your battery is good and fully charged before diagnosing a no charge fault.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Misread by me - sorry. I do suggest leaving jumper cables on plenty long enough for both vehicles to charge up a known low battery and increasingly use the portable jumper box. If a vehicle dies when removed that means there's more to do as we know and because this is away from shop you don't always have everything with you which is why they make tow trucks.

I would suggest charging battery with chargers not just letting alternators work so hard and we know they do with some ordinary reason a battery is low,

T