Latest Ford Escape Repair and Alternator Installation Advice
ford escape
Showing 2 out of
2 Posts
Question From lild1984 on ford escape
my battery light flashes when i accelerate and all my lights dim what is wrong
Response From DanD☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Possibly a charging system issue; the dimming lights and the flashing battery light are an indication of an alternator that maybe beginning to fail?
Dan.
2004 Ford Escape has power problem
Showing 6 out of
6 Posts
Question From bkwamw on 2004 Ford Escape has power problem
2004 ford escape 3.0L V6 When the heater is running it is up and down, the interior lights are diming and when I use the headlights they dim and I have lost all power driving down the road and the car wanted to stall out but I kept feathering the gas the all the power came back I had the Battery and alternator checked today and I was told they were both good and I had replaced them in 2010 so what do I look at next??
Response From Tom Greenleaf☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
You need to check performance of charging system and condition of battery with those symptoms. If voltage drops so low or power so low like that no telling how engine controls will react to make it run properly.
If any chance you know the battery is original get it the heck out for a new one as it's way too old and almost never last that long,
T
Response From Discretesignals
Hook a volt meter up to the battery terminals and look at the system voltage when the engine is running. Sometimes alternators can have intermittent problems that don't show up when bench testing.
Whatever you do do not unhook any battery cables while the engine is running to see if the alternator is charging. That's unless you don't mind spending money on sensitive electronic components.
Response From bkwamw
I had that done yesterday at autozone where I bought the alternator last year because my first thought was it was failing and it was under warrenty and they did the check by hooking a machine up to my battery but all tested good and I had the battery replaced last year too so I am not sure if there is a bad ground and where to begin to look for it. "it must be a girl thing" I thought I would look at the positive battery term and follow that and at the alternator wires I think the ground to it is on the fire wall some where any other ideas???
Response From Hammer Time
I am not sure if there is a bad ground
I really get a laugh at some of these conclusions.
Absolutely no evidence pointing to that but you're sure.
Response From Discretesignals
Did they test the charging system when your problem was occurring?
Alternator or wiring? 2001 Ford escape.
Showing 2 out of
2 Posts
Question From Shaynemack on Alternator or wiring? 2001 Ford escape.
2001 ford escape
3l, v6, 4wd
Friday night we were taking a 200km drive. We were on a highway and had just past the last exit for 90km when our battery light came on. We tried to make it to the next exit assuming the alternator went but didn't quite make it. We did make it about 80kms before finally the radio went black and we pulled over to the side of the road. Not a moment too soon as the steering went stiff and I assume the car turned off. As it's a $400 tow job from that place we opted to buy a couple batteries the next morning and try to drive it home. The car started up fine, and while the battery light remained on, we were able to drive it home. We tried replacing the battery and the battery light went out, but the interior dash lights seem a bit more dim (could be our imagination). We were able to drive about 80kms so far like this with no problems yet. The battery light is not currently on but now the emergency brake light is on. Could this be related somehow to a faulty alternator? Does this mean my alternator is going and not yet gone? Any opinions?
Response From Hammer Time☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Does this mean my alternator is going and not yet gone? Any opinions?
An intermittent failure is still a failure. It does sound like a bad alternator.
ford escape noises
Showing 3 out of
3 Posts
Question From escape 2005 on ford escape noises
I have a 2005 ford escape. Last night while driving I heard a pop noise and then the car started making a sputtering sound like it wasnt getting gas. The temp gauge was not in the normal position it stopped working and just dropped to the c (cool) like when you turn on the car and it has to warm up. I have coolant in the car and everything. I was trying to find a picture of the engine online cause I think it might be a belt. While looking in the engine area I notice 2 belts on one side of the engine. On the side where the battery is I noticed it looks like a wheel near the bottom between the radiator and the engine (below radiator) it looks like a wheel with nothing going around it. I was wondering if that is where a belt supposed to be. I need help asap. The car is loud and when I start it up it makes the same sound. As I drive it gets louder. I also was wondering how far I can travel without messing up the engine so I can get it to a repair shop about 15 miles away without messing up the engine. Any advice would greatly be appreciated. It doesn't look like my lights are dim (alternator issues)
Response From zmame☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
There should be a belt on the pulley on the battery side it runs the water pump. It's a starchy belt that goes from the drive pulley to the water pump. These pumps are famous for seizing and throwing the belt off. If there is no belt on the water pump do not run it anymore as engine damage will occur. Your best to have toed and have someone check the pump.
Response From escape 2005
Thank you so much. I was told that also could be the problem. Someone is coming to look at it in the morning
04 ford escape running too lean and 2 cylinders not firing
Showing 2 out of
30 Posts
|Show 28 Hidden Posts
Question From CotyWillett1512 on 04 ford escape running too lean and 2 cylinders not firing
04 ford escape 3.0 143,000 miles, it was missing so I replaced all spark plugs and found in two of the cylinder holes there was oil but it fixed the missing for a while then it started missing and so I replaced the valve cover gasket and then cranked it up and it was idling rough and the exhaust manifold right before the o2 sensor was gettin cherry red so I replaced the upper and lower Intake manifold gaskets still didn't fix the cherry red exhaust or the rough idle or the dtc for too lean bank 2. Next I checked the spark plugs and the coil packs on bank 2 the #6 cylinder spark plug was wet with gas and fouled out and the #4 was fouled out but couldn't see any gas on it so I replaced the #6 cylinder fuel injector and still found gas on the plug. Next I cranked it and check the # 4 and number #6 cylinder by unhooking when coil pack at and time and the engine rpm didn't change with number 4 or 6 but when I unplugged 5 it almost died, so I tested all 3 coil packs for spark they all were gettin spark. So then I replaced number 4 and 6 spark plugs and cranked it back up and still rough idle so I unplugged each coil pack again one at a time and no change in engine unplugging number 4 and 6. Oh I also replaced all old and worn vaccum hoses and sprayed brake cleaner over the hole engine and couldn't find a leak. Anyone that has idea or suggestion please
Response From Hammer Time
You're going to have to do some testing to verify this but I have have a few of these with coil drivers burnt out in the computer. If that is determined to be the case, the coils would have to be changed also.
Response From CotyWillett1512
Okay how would I test it? And what exactly do you mean by burnt out in the computer? And could this be making it run too lean? And make the exhaust manifold red hott?
Response From Hammer Time
You have to use a noid light to test for ground pulse coming from the computer for those particular coils. Resolve the misfires before you get concerned with the lean code.
Response From CotyWillett1512
Okay I'll check that out and get back with u hopefully I can find the problem doing this, thanx
Response From Discretesignals
Lean condition isn't going to cause your exhaust manifold to glow. That is probably due to a misfire or timing problem. Misfires are going to cause the O2 sensor to report a lean state because the cylinder(s) that isn't firing won't consume the oxygen. If this is a 3.0L be sure you have the ignition coils plug in correctly. It is easy to to get the coil connectors swapped on those or it could have faulty coils. Really don't think an injector is going to cause that because with a no fuel misfire there isn't going to be raw fuel getting into the exhaust system.
Response From Hammer Time
I've had at least 3 Escapes with 3.0 with burnt coil drivers. That seems to be the only vehicle that it's common.
Response From CotyWillett1512
I did the screwdriver test on the two that aren't firing and they both have spark...
Response From Discretesignals
The spark needs to be able to jump at least a 3/4 inch gap. If you did the valve covers, you could have gotten the outer coil connectors swapped. It is really easy to do because the harness can be reversed.
Response From CotyWillett1512
I don't think I switched the coils I didn't disconnect the coils and each one is only long enough to fit In each cylinder but I'll check that again, and yes that's a good idea I need to do the smoke test, I tried sprayin brake cleaner all over and nothing, and the spark was about an inch I'll check that again also.
Response From Discretesignals
You had to move the coil and the harnesses to change the valve cover gasket. Even though you left the coils plugs in, it is easy to have coils swapped.
Look at the coil connector wire colors. #4 wires should be white/violet and white/pink. #6 wires should be white/violet and light green/yellow.
Watch this video: ( go to 34 min mark to see the cause)
Response From CotyWillett1512
^^^ you were right! I switched the coils around and now it runs perfect again that's all it was, thanx guys I appreciate all y'all's help and input.
Response From Discretesignals
Glad to see you got it figured out. Gosh, I've never seen that many stars before on here. Thanks you for the accolades, but if it wasn't for someone else who ran into this in the past, it probably would have been a difficult one to figure out. Thank you for following up on this.
Edit: reopened thread
Response From CotyWillett1512
Okay here's the next problem it started missing when stopped at a red light and it has a lack of power especially when I get up to 50 and then at 65 mph it runs at about 3000 rpm and won't go any faster and then this morning I start to drive it and it completely loss power at 50mph and the oil light came on the OD light came on and the battery light came on and it started shaking and idling bad so I shut it off and left it on the side if the road. Could it have some kind of restriction or in a limp mode?
Response From Discretesignals☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
There should be trouble codes stored. Check to see what they are. Low system voltage from an alternator not producing power can cause weird things like that as the battery dies, so make sure the battery is good and the alternator is charging.
Response From CotyWillett1512
Okay so I start it up when I get home from work and when I push the gas pedal It makes a loud squealing noise just when I engage the throttle. Also I took off the coolant overfill bottle cap off and let it run and it started to bubble out the top, so it's definitely a head gasket blown right? Or could it be something else
Response From Discretesignals
Where is the squealing noise coming from? How is the water pump belt and tensioner?
Response From CotyWillett1512
It sounds like it's coming from the middle if the engine it sounds like it's sucking in a lot of air when I accelerate, all the belts and tensioner looked okay I'll check again, but does it sound like a head gasket could be blown?
Response From CotyWillett1512
Also I'm thinking that when it was running lean and by the o2 sensor when it was gettin red hott that it melted the catalytic converter and maybe cause the head gasket to blow
Response From Discretesignals
I believe your on the right track. Earlier you stated the manifold was glowing red. Due to all those misfires it probably did melt the catalyst which is causing excessive back pressure. The noise your hearing is probably from exhaust not being able to get through the catalyst. This can cause the engine to run hot or possibly overheat, but maybe you should confirm that catalyst is restricted by performing a back pressure test with a gauge screwed into the front O2 sensor. I don't think the duratecs were known for blowing head gaskets, but you should fix the catalyst problem and then see what happens.
Response From CotyWillett1512
Okay that's what I will do then, I don't have all the right tools and everything so I'm gonna take it to a shop and get the codes pulled and diagnosed and then go from there with it
Response From Discretesignals
Let us know how things turn out
Response From CotyWillett1512
Okay will do, I appreciate all the help!!!!
Response From CotyWillett1512
Also yes I need to check the codes but I don't have a code reader and I don't think it will make it to a part store I live 15 mins from town
Response From Hammer Time
Lots of gold stars for DS on that catch.
Response From CotyWillett1512
Also if the spark is not about an inch do I replace the just the coils or what would be the next step if that was the problem?
Response From Hammer Time
If it's not at least a half in I would replace it. A half inch jump shouldn't be misfiring.
Response From Tom Greenleaf
Just notes on plugs actually firing: You must know spark is enough has been discussed. What you said up top is new plugs solved it for a short while. Fine but spark if good (needs this testing suggested) still seeks "the path of least resistance" which isn't necessarily jumping the electrodes inside cylinder.
Under compression - that alone is more resistance for spark to seek ground another way. Plugs when wet can (not all but some really do) wet the porcelain such that it conducts electricity at these high voltages and takes the spark to ground but doesn't jump the gap and you can't see that it's by default when everything else is right but history of wet plugs. I've seen new plugs in wet cylinders also find ground without making a spark till real dry. Porcelain does not air dry so well even when a wet plug looks dry they can still fail.
Pic of this may not show dag nabbit but it does happen. Lots to me with two stroke stuff like chainsaws and only heating up plug real hot works. See if this dang pic show......... So far it's there? See the larger red arrows pointing up to ground in that graphic of what they can do. Everything else must test right first then this is the last item that still can stop the show is the point. I suggested take a known one working and swap. If even dried plug doesn't work in the other working cylinder now it's the plug itself by all odds,
T
Response From Hammer Time
You could do a smoke test to look for a major vacuum leak but raw fuel is getting into the converter from somewhere to make it cherry red. Extreme lean could give you a lean misfire. Make sure that spark could jump a gap of about an inch.
Response From Tom Greenleaf
A note on that: That doesn't mean plug is firing but a good clue. If plug has been fuel soaked enough it can accept the spark but ground out thru raw fuel without firing. Your call when all things seem OK enough put one or more in those that don't fire with ones that do now and see what you get,
