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Saleri
2008 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump Saleri

P311-1FFFDF2    W0133-1935295  New

Qty:
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Saleri Engine Water Pump
Brand: Saleri
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Vehicle
2008 - Smart Fortwo
Beck Arnley
2008 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump 3 Cyl 1.0L Beck Arnley

P311-4A60261    131-2469  New

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Beck Arnley Engine Water Pump
  • WATER PUMP
  • Metal Impeller; Metal Impeller
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - Smart Fortwo L 1000 61
Beck Arnley
2006 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump 3 Cyl 0.8L Beck Arnley

P311-252036B    131-2409  New

Qty:
$51.90
Beck Arnley Engine Water Pump
  • WATER PUMP
  • Canadian Models; Metal Impeller; Metal Impeller
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
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Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Fuel Type
2006 - Smart Fortwo Turbocharged L 799 - DIESEL
Beck Arnley
2005 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump 3 Cyl 0.8L Beck Arnley

P311-252036B    131-2409  New

Qty:
$51.90
Beck Arnley Engine Water Pump
  • WATER PUMP
  • Canadian Models; Metal Impeller
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Fuel Type
2005 - Smart Fortwo Turbocharged L 799 - DIESEL
Graf
2008 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-4511096    PA1142  New

Qty:
$58.55
Graf Engine Water Pump
Brand: Graf
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Vehicle
2008 - Smart Fortwo
Febi
2012 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump Febi

P311-3C42036    W0133-1998504  New

Qty:
$111.23
Febi Engine Water Pump
Brand: Febi
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Vehicle Fuel Type
2012 - Smart Fortwo GAS
Graf
2008 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump Graf

P311-4036D12    W0133-1935295  New

Qty:
$108.83
Graf Engine Water Pump
Brand: Graf
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Vehicle
2008 - Smart Fortwo
Febi
2008 Smart Fortwo Engine Water Pump Febi

P311-4EC8BCD    W0133-1935295  New

Qty:
$111.23
Febi Engine Water Pump
Brand: Febi
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Vehicle
2008 - Smart Fortwo

Latest Smart Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

03 vitara overheating

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From pantherl142 on 03 vitara overheating

Hi, vehicle has 336.xxx km but is running strong, 5spd, changed water pump in sept 2012 with a new one...changed thermostat and antifreeze and cap....got the air out and was running good for 2 weeks straight until the last few days...overheating...first starting her up the inflow and outflow hoses are tight with fluid...when she starts to over heat seems like nothing just air or not much in them...and i got balls so i removed rad cap while overheating and runnin...about 3 cups spray out then nothing....fluid are at ther right levels too

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

That is a whole lot of miles.

Fan clutch working?
Have you tested the coolant system for combustion gases?

I agree, not a very smart thing to do.

Response From pantherl142

yes fan is working good, and no never checked for combustion gasses, actually never heard of it before, anyway I can do it or is it a garage job?

Response From Discretesignals

They have a block test kit that uses a chemical that turns a different color when it comes in contact with combustion gasses. It isn't always accurate.

If you see a bunch of bubbles while the engine is running, that could be an indicator of a head gasket problem.

You could use a leak down tester in the cylinders to see if you get bubbles in the radiator, but there are variables also.

If you know a shop that has a gas analyzer, they can sniff for hydro carbons in the coolant system. That is fairly accurate.

Response From pantherl142

thank you guys so much for the advice, Guess I'll get a appointment at a garage....1 quick question....do ya think the thermostat may be gone already or faulty? wasnt a expensive one....if so I guess i'll check that before I make an appointment...it was just recently changed though

Response From Hammer Time

.and i got balls so i removed rad cap while overheating and runnin

You don't have balls. You just don't have any brains.

Troubleshot a lot. not sure what my issue is

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From amp123dime on Troubleshot a lot. not sure what my issue is

Hi, So my 1994 mercury sable 3.0L engine just stopped driving down the highway. Got it home. Assumed fuel pump was bad. Replaced fuel pump (it was clearly bad) & the Powertrain control module (clearly fried). Still wouldn't start. Bought a new distributor and replaced. Had Autozone check the ignition coil, and test the ignition control module. They tested like they were suppose to within range. Replaced the distributor cap spark plugs and spark plug wires.

Just for reference also replaced fuel filter, thermostat, water pump, power steering pump, battery all within a month prior to this issue occuring as well.

Im determined to fix this just don't know what else would prevent the engine from firing up

Response From Hammer Time



Well, if you keep throwing parts at it the way you have been you may eventually hit it and then you may waste a lot more money too.

Here's the way it is done.


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From nickwarner

What was the fuel pressure on your "fried" pump? What was the voltage at its connector? What was the ohm reading of its ground circuit? If the PCM was a suspect, what was the criteria for condemning it? If these parts were both bad at the exact same time it would be the first I've seen.

Response From amp123dime

Also tested that it had fuel pressure. So its for sure getting fuel

Response From amp123dime

Not getting a spark. The rotor turns. I guess the next step is to find someone with a scan tool and check the computer codes. Not sure what else it could be. Unless the autozone tests of the ignition control module and ignition coil were misleading me and one of them is bad.

Response From amp123dime

Also wasnt just throwing parts at it. tested the fuel pump by jumping power to it to determine it was bad. The Powertrain control module you could smell the fried electrical and actually broke it open and saw the burnt relays. Then it was a matter of why it wasn't getting spark when I had done a tune-up earlier in the month. Replaced the distributor because after checking the ignition control module and ignition coil. They really wasn't much else left but the pick up coil. Buying a new distributor was much easier than changing out the pick up coil. Plus the distributor gear was worn anyhow.

Response From Hammer Time

You keep trying to justify changing all these parts that didn't fix anything and you still refuse to follow the exact instructions given so you're going to be looking for this problem for a long time.

We deal with guys like you that think they have all the shortcuts and don't test the way we ask all the time. I don't plan on riding your merry-go-round.

Response From nickwarner

Testing fuel pressure doesn't mean you have fuel, it means you have the potential for it IF the pcm triggers the injectors to deliver it and the injectors are capable of delivering the said fuel into the intake. Along with that you have to have sufficient vacuum to draw it into the cylinder and then fire it only if you have the correct compression and spark at the correct time. Checking the pressure was a good idea, but I see no mention of a test of injector pulse with a noid light. You could be condemning an ignition part because it wasn't triggered by the PCM to create a spark due to lack of signal from a crank sensor. Thats why we test the way we do and in the order we do. When you bill by flat rate you have to be efficient with your time. We are efficient and doing it our way saves you time and money. We are the pros you are trying not to take your car to. We are giving you the knowledge to do this yourself for free. Even Houdini wouldn't show you where the rabbit goes.

Response From Hammer Time

Also tested that it had fuel pressure. So its for sure getting fuel


I don't recall seeing a fuel pressure reading.

Response From amp123dime

I appreciate the responses. By no means am I a professional mechanic. The cost of a professional mechanic to solve for this is more than the cars value. I appreciate the FREE advice :) Fuel pressure aside. Bottom line is I am not getting a spark I have 12volts constant on both terminals of the ignition coil. One of the terminals should pulse. Other than the ignition control module what would prevent the ignition coil from pulsing ?

Response From Hammer Time

OK, you just said in a nutshell what i have believed to be true all along. You're blowing off our instructions, taking your own route and lieing about the results.


I don't have time to be wasted like this. If you can't or won't follow instructions, fix it yourself. There are other people that need help that will.

Response From amp123dime

WOW,, I didn't lie about anything. If you don't want to help that is OK. you don't have to. What specific instruction did I not follow ? Testing the fuel pressure ? I don't see a need for that when my current issue I am hoping to solve is why I am not getting a spark. Can't ignite fuel without a spark

Response From Hammer Time

I gave you a specific list of tests and you blew them off.

You haven't proven you have fuel pressure, you haven't proven you have injector pulse, You haven't even proven you have power supply to anything. There's nothing harder to do that try to help someone that thinks he knows more than he does.

You're on your own.

Response From amp123dime

Well hammer time if you get off the merry go round. Thats OK. I know I have fuel pressure because before I changed the fuel pump I pushed the pin where you attach the pressure gauge and no fuel came out. After changing the fuel pump I pushed that same pin and fuel shot out about 10 feet. Not the best method but didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge and it worked. Not testing anything else related to fuel pressure because.. I HAVE NO SPARK

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Gee, i wish I was as smart as you. Maybe you should work for Autozone. You would fit right in there.

Response From Discretesignals

Just to let you know. If you test for injector pulse and you have it, that tells you:

*The ignition module has power and ground
*The hall effect sensor in the distributor is producing a digital position signal to the ignition module.

If you have no trigger at the coil ground circuit and your PIPs going out, you can pretty much conclude the ignition module transistor circuitry died.

All ya had to do was answer those simple questions that was provided and there wouldn't have been so much heart ache. Good luck.

Response From Discretesignals

If you test for injector pulse as HT stated, that would tell you if the ignition module is sending a PIP signal to the engine controller. That helps to know because it eliminates a lot of things.

Response From amp123dime

Also every part I changed did Fix something that was wrong. The parts I changed weren't expensive and were needed. The other parts I have not changed related to not sparking are the ignition coil and ignition control module. Haven't changed those because I am not sure their is something wrong with those parts

Response From amp123dime

The fuel pump was bad. the screen inside was gone and the teeth on the gears in the fuel pump were shot. Also one of the wires attached to the pump didn't have a solid connection. The power control module was definately fried you could smell the burnt electrical. And there was a burnt hole in the control board of the power control module.

did the spark plug test and its not getting a spark. at all. Had my mechanic friend bring his voltage meter and tested that everything was within range. I was told at the auto parts store that coil should pulse. I am getting 12 volts on both of the posts of the ignition coil. Leading us to believe the ignition control module is bad. Even though it tested fine at the auto parts store.

Not a smart way of checking my fan relays...please HELP!!!

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Ed007 on Not a smart way of checking my fan relays...please HELP!!!


Hello,
I have a Chevy Lumina 1997, 3.1 with 145,000mils.


I have been having trouble with my Lumina heating up for a while now. About a month ago I changed the thermostat and flushed the cooling system. That helped for a while, but eventually it started heating up again. I realized that the cooling fan would not come on till the heating gage was all they way on RED. So I came to the conclusion that for some reason the fan would not cool the engine, until dangerously HOT. Today I tried to check the relays to see if i can find the problem. I checked (Fan Cont #1) by removing the relay and creating a connection by placing 2 (V) shaped metal wires and both fans started working. I repeated the process on (Fan Cont # 2), but unlike the first time there was a spark and when i tried to start the car and it would not start. I realize i must have caused an electrical short some where, but i'm not sure where to start. Please help.!!!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

1st, If the fan comes on when "It's dangerously hot", that tells me that the cooling fan motor and the relay is okay.
I'd check the coolant fan switch. Some, are PCM controlled, but have a switch that commands the fan to turn on at a specific value, even if PCM controlled. Many coolant fans don't come on until 234F! Hopefully, you've just blown a fuse or a relay. Most GM relays are interchangable. You could take the A/C relay and plug it into the fuel pump relay socket, ect. But, I'd check the fuses, first. You may have an electrical distrubution box under the hood and additional fuses under the dash. As you've probably learned, it's not a good idea to "jump" across terminals.
Good luck.

Response From Ed007


Thank you very much for responding to my question/SOS!!

I checked the fuses and found a blown one. I replaced it and car starts with no problems. But I still have the problem of cooling fan not starting till gage on RED and HOT warning light comes on..then the gage slowly starts coming back down to middle area. I'm very interested to learn more about “Coolant fan switch and PCM” you wrote about. Now I'm still a novice when it comes to fixing my own car, but I'm trying and very motivated to learn and my wallet appreciates it too. Can you please elaborate on PCM and Coolant fan Switch or maybe you can directed my to a website. I very much appreciate you help and advice and I'll make sure to pay it forward.
Thanks again !!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Glad to hear it was just a fuse! The PCM is the computer. The coolant fan switch is usually mounted near the thermostat housing. But, the problem you are describing sounds like a possible sticky thermostat. By the time the coolant fan switch "sees" the problem and turns on the fan, the engine is already HOT. I haven't learned how to post a picture of the coolant fan switch, but Tom G. knows how. Hopefully, he'll see the post and show you what it looks like, but I'd be real suspicious of the thermostat.

Response From Ed007


Hello all,


First let me just say thank you all for your help I really appreciate it. Okay, Way2old I changed the engine oil today and I saw that the oil was darker than usual and what little i saw of the inside of the engine when i moved the cap was brownish and dried up oil on the bottom of the cap. So i really do think that the car is getting hot..what i mean is that the gage is giving me the write temp reading (what do you think?). Unfortunately i need the car for work so i still have to drive it, I'm just extra careful with it. Landdchamploren, I changed to thermostat a few months back and whata tough job that was ...its in a really tight spot. To say the the truth the thermostat has been in my mind lately. I bought it at Auto-Zone (i should have gotten it from Chevy dealer) and I'm thinking that it might open at different temp. than the original one (btw, I remember testing the original one and it opened fine) can that be putting the whole cooling system out of wack? I was thinking of going back to AutoZone and see if its on file what kind it was that i bought and research it. I wana replace the coolant fan switch next and see where that takes me.....Tom G. please forward my regards to Kitty for providing a pic of what it looks like.
This morning before going to work, I repeated the process of manually turning on the engine cooling fans (by crossing the first relay terminal, not the 2nd one that caused the fuse blow out) to keep the engine cool till i got to work (30miles from home). I know what you are thinking, but i'm worried the car might not be able to take this over heating for much longer. So..about half way to work I see the gage is slowly moving to the right where the RED is. When it reached the RED, I pulled in to a gas station, but before I could put the car in park the gage started going back to the left....I started driving again and about 5 miles from work it started pulling toward RED, I keep on driving Warning HOT light comes on for about 3 seconds and goes away and i'm still driving...gage starts pulling back all the way left (cool, it goes back a whole 3 quarters) just when I reach the parking lot and almost the same story on the way back to home.

I just thought I'd mention this and hopefully it will help in diagnosing this irritating issue.
Thanks again for all your help!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

More suggestions/thoughts/question:

Is the radiator fan working yet and can it show HOT when it's on? If it can read normal when it's on then if you can't figure it out right away then make up a fused jumper wire direct to unplugged fan to force to stay on all the time if you must use the car for now. Run heater (better yet 'defroster') full blast and open windows if too hot for you too can both help AND you should feel the air temp comparative to gauge for a guess on gauge accuracy. When boiling hot the heater will quit - know that! Defrost request MAY force radiator fan to run - not sure for this car.

Is this truly full of coolant and staying that way? If no cap on radiator, when cold just squeeze upper rad hose - no bubble to recovery tank should be seen coming up - if so there's urgent need to find out - head gaskets can do that - sorry for the lousy possiblility but you need to know.

Oil sluge from heat: Maybe. Take a look if you can see thru fill cap as a better indicator. Clean cap and look for recurrance. Synthetic oils tolerate heat tons better than conventionals but not a cover for a problem.

I just think the gauge is telling the truth. Low coolant level could cause it to be late or erratic. Radiator could be inadequate, t-stat might be bad but it's rare with the symptoms so far to me.

Note: Cooling fan(s) really aren't necessary when moving along steadily at speeds over 35-40mph or so if air dams and shrouding is intact. Is radiator clean enough - leaves, bugs etc?

Other: Belt properly tight to turn water pump? Kinda must be or other probs would be happening. Water pumps are usually a cake walk on the 3.1s. Never heard of one yet not pumping but makes me wonder. Has been reported that some can corrode impellers causes low flow at lower rpms at first if so.

Kitty say "Hi" - Can you tell her owner isn't wrapped too tight?

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Kitty thinks it looks like this one so if this
is wrong it's her fault!






As way2old mentioned testing actual temp with infrafed thermometer would help a lot to verify the actual temp. Check right at thermostat housing when fully warmed up and the temp should be and stay close to the thermostat's rating ~ 195F +/-

Arggh ! Fan will come on later than the t-stat's temp rating. PCM is likely reading ohms from this sucker to make the call. Don't be jumping three wire switches!

This car may also use A/C's HPCO (high pressure cut out) also with three wires to activate fan(s) also thru PCM,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

And, Tom comes through again! I'm impressed! LOL. I just saw an ad last week that you can buy a digital pyrometer for around $20. We paid A LOT more for the Snap-on one! Would be a good investment for DIYers.
btw, I love cats. Kitty looks like a good one! Lots better looking than her Daddy.

Response From way2old

Another thing to consider is if the gauge is reading right. You need to confirm the gauge is correct before you go much farther. See if you can get your hands on an infrared thermometer and check engine temperature against what the gauge is reading. As noted above, the fans come on at different temps. Most will come on around the 220 to 225 range. Good luck.

Response From way2old

Check all your fuses first.

Engine overheated! Coolant all over under hood! Advice needed!

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mdb31483 on Engine overheated! Coolant all over under hood! Advice needed!

Hello,

I have a 1993 DodgeB250 Van, V6. I was driving for about 1.5 hours straight and right when I was about to get home I started smelling coolant. I then noticed the engine temp gauge slowly creeping up. I pulled over and let the vehicle cool off for a while. A lot of smoke was coming form under the engine and coolant was all over the place under the hood. I then drove down the road a little ways, about 1 mile and then pulled over again. This is where my vehicle sits now until I can get a ride back to it. This time smoke was even coming into the cabin a little bit. The van was driving fine through the drive. It started making some weird little noise as I was pulling up to the final spot. Hopefully it is okay. I was wondering what steps I should take it diagnosing and fixing the problem. Is it also true I should now change the transmission fluids and filter. I heard that could be compromised by an overheated engine? THANKS! I appreciate any help!

-Matthew

Response From carjunky Top Rated Answer

Hi Matthew,

To start you where smart for leaving the van alone to cool off... This way you avoid a serious burn.

When you check the vehicle out I would do a quick look over of the radiator hoses and fan even look for a loose fan belt. Try to shake the fan a little bit to see if it is loose. If your water pump went, your fan may have cut through the hose (since the fan in most cars is mount directly onto the waterpump), this would cause all the smoke and coolant all over. Its also possible that a hose simply came off of a connection, or the radiator developed a leak.

Just a few areas to look at. Let us know what you find.

2001 Hyundai Elantra No power...

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From JoshMc on 2001 Hyundai Elantra No power...

Ok here's the rundown, 2.0 engine acts sluggish at times, what I have noticed is this if it's HOT out. And once the car gets hot to it's normal operating Temp. The acceleration sucks. When it's cool, the acceleration is great, new fuel pump and filter, I have hollowed out pre and cat installed non fouler on downstream o2 sensor, had the head reworked at head shop, new head gasket, new intake gasket, installed new water pump and timing belt, new plugs and wires, new map sensor, new idle air control valve , throttle positioning sensor, coil packs are 2 years old, car is not equipped with a mass air flow sensor, the car is throwing a code for a bad speed sensor, it is equipped with an input and output speed sensor, it shifts a little hard at times, because of the bad speed sensor but very rarely also transmission has been flushed with dealer recommended fluid. The car has acted sluggish before i did any work and it still dose... Any one have any Ideas...

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The car has acted sluggish before i did any work and it still dose.

Gee, what a shock


So, you throw a couple hundred dollars worth of parts at the car and then destroy another few hundred worth of needed converters instead of simply paying for the correct diagnosis and you think you're the smart one?

If you really need to throw that much money away, simply giving it away would be a lot less work.

Response From JoshMc

Damn yous guys are fools... you want to talk $ Sh#t and you don't no what the F" your talking about, for 1 let me explain myself, y i put all these parts on this $500 better, that gets 38 miles to the gallon...for the first reason, Coil packs previous owner did not change plugs and the result was coil pack shorted out on #2 cylinder, so i changed both... throttle position sensor went out two weeks ago, the car kept revving up and down, that fixed the problem...map sensor was not throwing the correct voltage at idle or while it was revved up to 2 grand...idle air control valve, car was dying at low idle, to much air in intake....Head job, Car would run hot with AC on, bubbles coming up through radiator...and since i was taking head off , y wouldn't i replace timing belt and water pump...catalytic converters, both were clogged, No i am not spending $600 on cat's when the car isn't even worth $500...Most of all these problems arose over the last 4 months... Now lets get this straight, i came here for help not to be criticized, So are you going sit there and keep talking $ sh#t or are you going to help me diagnose this problem.

Response From Hammer Time

OH, so sorry...................... I'll get you a refund right away.

Response From GC

Any chance you have access to a scan tool with streaming data? Why did you put a non-fouler on the 02? Check engine light on? Code #s if so. Sounds like a mess.

Response From JoshMc

no i dont have access to a scan tool, the non fouler is to fool the ecu that there is not a low bank!

Response From Discretesignals

Hack job. Nothing like reading about a person that threw a bunch of parts on and hollowed a couple cats out instead of actually doing some diagnosis.