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Best Selling Genuine Mitsubishi Water Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including GMB, Metrix, Hitachi, AISIN
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We stock Water Pump parts for most Mitsubishi models, including 3000GT, Diamante, Eclipse, Galant, Lancer, Mirage, Montero, Montero Sport, Outlander, Outlander Sport.

GMB
2009 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.7L GMB

P311-2527EC6    120-4350  New

53020873AC , 43263 , 43163 , 5179734AA , 181627 , PA10157 , 5302189AC , NP017163 , 40602A , 1204350 , 68045797AA , AW7163 , B534 , CVC9240 , 1463654 , 53022189AA , 511866 , 30590 , P927 , 160094096 , 73301 , RCWP7163 , P1668 , 53022189AG , 53022189AB , 53022189AF , NP1668 , 53021187AA , WP8109RP , 53021187AC , 5533418 , 53020873AB , 53022189AC , CP7163 , 58572 , 58719 , 5302058AA , 252813 , 53022058AA , CWP9240 , 317061 , HYT17061C , 53020873 , 53022189AH , MBA05927 , 5302189AB , C204350 , 5302189AA , 2680942 , 98209 , FP2526 , T4191 , ELGWP7163 , US7163 , 53022189AD

Qty:
$46.23
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Plastic Impeller
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mitsubishi Raider V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Metrix
1999 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-3FB80A3    W0133-1612873  New

Qty:
$54.42
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1999 - Mitsubishi 3000GT Turbocharged
Hitachi
1999 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine Water Pump Hitachi

P311-1A4B8C7    W0133-1612873  New

Qty:
$152.12
Hitachi Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1999 - Mitsubishi 3000GT Turbocharged
Hitachi
1994 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Hitachi - with Rear Housing

P311-0240DA7    W0133-1730737  New

Qty:
$320.38
Hitachi Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Production: 06/1994-
  • Thermostat housing gasket MD 308723 (between the rear pump housing and the back of the thermostat housing) is also required but not included with this pump (please order separately).
  • with Rear Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1994 - Mitsubishi Montero V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972 Fr:06-00-94
Hitachi
2004 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Engine Water Pump Hitachi - with Rear Housing

P311-0240DA7    W0133-1730737  New

Qty:
$320.38
Hitachi Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Thermostat housing gasket MD 308723 (between the rear pump housing and the back of the thermostat housing) is also required but not included with this pump (please order separately).
  • with Rear Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport
Hitachi
1997 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Water Pump Hitachi - with Rear Housing

P311-0240DA7    W0133-1730737  New

Qty:
$320.38
Hitachi Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Production: 05/1996-
  • Thermostat housing gasket MD 308723 (between the rear pump housing and the back of the thermostat housing) is also required but not included with this pump (please order separately).
  • with Rear Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Mitsubishi Montero Fr:05-00-96
Metrix
2007 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-5D0C942    W0133-1800031  New

Qty:
$54.20
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • Includes Gasket
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Mitsubishi Outlander
Hitachi
2007 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Water Pump Hitachi

P311-3A8A96E    W0133-1800031  New

Qty:
$249.72
Hitachi Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Includes Gasket
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Mitsubishi Outlander
AISIN
2007 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-3E3F618    W0133-1800031  New

Qty:
$196.18
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Mitsubishi Outlander
Metrix
2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Metrix

P311-5D0C942    W0133-1800031  New

Qty:
$54.20
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2019 - Mitsubishi Outlander V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2998
Hitachi
2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Hitachi

P311-3A8A96E    W0133-1800031  New

Qty:
$249.72
Hitachi Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2019 - Mitsubishi Outlander V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2998
AISIN
2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L AISIN

P311-3E3F618    W0133-1800031  New

Qty:
$196.18
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2019 - Mitsubishi Outlander V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2998
Metrix
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-17A250A    W0133-1812810  New

Qty:
$40.30
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2004 - Mitsubishi Lancer Turbocharged
Metrix
2009 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-463CF8C    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
$73.04
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mitsubishi Raider
GMB
2009 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1BE2922    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
$74.92
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mitsubishi Raider
Metrix
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-463CF8C    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
$73.04
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • Production: -09/30/2006
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider To:09-30-06
GMB
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1BE2922    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
$74.92
  • Production: -09/30/2006
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider To:09-30-06
Metrix
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-463CF8C    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
$73.04
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • Production: 10/01/2006-
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider Fr:10-01-06
GMB
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1BE2922    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
$74.92
  • Production: 10/01/2006-
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider Fr:10-01-06

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Mitsubishi Outlander shaking problem

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From JansoJason on 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander shaking problem

Year of vehicle: 2003
Make of vehicle (Ford/ Chevrolet): Mitsubishi
Model of vehicle ( Taurus/ Cavalier): Outlander
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7): 2.4
Mileage/Kilometers: 100K


when I drive on uphill at 40-50mph, the car will shake intermittently,It is like:

shaking---stop shaking for seconds---shaking----stop shaking for seconds---shaking.
pretty big...

I do not know whether it is related with the timing belt change, or not. I think I found this problem after I got the timing belt and water pump changed. But I am not very sure.

any comments for this? thank you!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Jan; You mentioned that this only happens 'uphill'. Under heavy fuel demand? Check engine or service engine soon light coming on? This could be a secondary misfire, or starving for fuel. Any backfiring associated with the 'shaking'?
If you get a check engine light, have the code(s) retrieved and post them. It is not uncommon to have a misfire that doesn't last long enough for the computer to pick it up, but if it did, that would simplify things. If you haven't had the fuel filter replaced in the past year, you may want to do that as a maintenance thing.

Response From JansoJason

the fuel filter and the pump are assembled!
total cost will be around $400.00...
I do not know wheter I should do it or not.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Jan; No, I wouldn't advise replacing the pump/filter assy. without proper diagnostics, first. A fuel pressure/volume test should be done to see if that is even the problem. Most shops will have the equipment to do this.

Response From JansoJason

Hi Loren,

Thank you very much for reply~
Yes, it only happens 'uphill' under heavy fuel demand. And when it was shaking, if i release the gas pedal, the shaking is gone.

No light (Check engine or service engine soon light coming ) is on.
(what symptoms if backfiring happens? It is like huge noise? )the engine is fine, no noise.

I will check the fuel filter, if necessary I will change it. Thank you point it out.

Thank you very much!

2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - Knocking Noise

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From mlr23 on 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - Knocking Noise

I had the same problem for about a year. Finally my water pump locked up, which is driven by the timing belt. In the process of replacing it I realized the bearing to my timing belt pulley had gone bad. I replaced water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and both pulleys. The terrible noise I couldn't figure out is now gone. If possible I would recommend replacing all of these. If you do it yourself you will need a particular tool to set the tensioner pulley. The part # for the tool is MD998767. I found it online for about $30. Simple to use. It is made to fit into the 2 holes on the tensioner pulley. With the tensioner released the bolt to the pulley should be hand tight. Using the tool apply 38 in. lbs. of tension against the belt. While holding the tension against the belt torque the pulley bolt to 35 ft. lbs. The In. Lbs. and Ft. Lbs. I found on another forum. They are what I used and I haven't had any problems. Hope this helps.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Just to add, it is also a good idea to replace the crank and cam seals while your in there. They usually become hard and leak with age and mileage. Doesn't make sense to do the whole job over again because you ended up with leaky seals later on.

Response From nickwarner

Glad to hear it worked for you and thanks for the info. This is the reason why there is a schedule to change these things, to prevent breakdowns. Luckily you had a freewheeling engine. If this was interference you'd have needed a new head. Good luck with the car now that you've got it running.

Help with engine heating...

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Help with engine heating...

My '98 Mitsubishi Eclispse is over heating and has an empty coolant reservoir. I took it to a local auto repair center and he told me that the anti freeze sockets are worn and need to be replaced. He told me that it costs be about 1200$ for that.

Can anybody tell me if that price sounds reasonable???

Also, when I took it to the other store, he pressure checked the radiator and told me that there are no leaks. Can anybody tell me if the pressure check reveals any leaks through the anti-freeze sockets???

Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


What in the heck are anti-freeze sockets? There are core plugs that are frequently called freeze plugs and tough to do them all. Just my opinion but $1200 seems way to high. Keep the system full till you get this taken care of, T

Response From Guest

Sorry for the wrong terminology... they are Expansion/Freeze plugs. Does these cause a leak in the coolant system that cannot be deetermined by the pressure check?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: You found the coolant reservoir empty after an overheat. If that bottle wasn't noticed right away it could have spit up coolant with no evidence. Those bottle can also have leaks and would eventually leave you with a less than full radiator.

You mentioned a pressure test found no leaks. There would be evidence somewhere unless your engine is burning it which they can and if bad enough you would notice white fog out the exhaust suggesting a head gasket. radiator must be kept full at the radiator first then the recovery/reservior tank to proper level.

Hard to say now what came first an overheat from several possibilities or an overheat from low coolant?

Coolant leaks will leave evidence and sometimes you need mirrors to see in tight spots. They make telescopic little mirrors just for this and check the bottom of the water pump.

It's possible that a "freeze" plug has rusted and leaks but this shouldn't be guessing it should be seen and if the engine has to come out but it seems early for this for a 1998.

I think you should seek out another opinoin or ask the shop to show you just what the problem is, Good luck, T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

well it seems funny ya can likely by a rebuilt motor for thet price lol what ever they wish to call them the soft plugs could well be bad but I' check the water pump first if you live in an area of high salt during winter soft plugs are common but its more likely the water pump bearing is just wore out or leaking look for discoloration around the water pump from the steam cooling the steam is hard to see but the discoloration is usually visible look for water leaks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The term is core plugs. It's been since the early 1900's since they were for freeze protection. YES they can rust and leak coolant. They are dirt cheap but can be nasty work to replace. I'm probably wrong but I have just replaced bad one and not just all of them and have gotten away with that my whole life, T

Response From Guest

Thank you very much for the replies!!!

Oil in Radiator

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Matt1312020 on Oil in Radiator

Quite simply, there is oil in the radiator. Other than that there seems to be nothing else wrong with the car. Drives normally, no weird noises, and no coolant is leaking into the oil, just oil into the coolant. I don't know where to start.

Car is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. 1.8L engine, roughly 110,000km on the clock.

Any advice or information is appreciated.

Response From Discretesignals

Automatic or manual transaxle?

Response From Matt1312020

It's a manual.

Response From Discretesignals

Has this ever overheated?

Tom pretty much summed it up. If you are getting oil in the radiator, it has to be coming from the engine. There could be a leak between an oil and coolant port of the head gasket or some type of crack in the head allowing oil to get into the coolant system. The reason it doesn't go the other way is because there is more oil pressure than coolant pressure.

Response From Hammer Time

The reason it doesn't go the other way is because there is more oil pressure than coolant pressure.


Until the engine is shut of hot. Then it tends to go the other way.

Response From Discretesignals

That would depend on how it leaks too. If the leak acts as a check valve it can cause oil to flow one way and coolant can't flow the other or maybe it takes a lot more pressure than coolant pressure to make the leak occur.


Believe it or not I had a 3.8L Regal in the shop that had oil in the radiator, but no coolant in the oil. The transmission cooler was fine, but the intake gaskets were shot. Somehow the oil from the valley was getting picked up into the coolant system through the intake gaskets. After replacing the intake gaskets the oil in the coolant stopped. The only thing I can theorize is that the flow of coolant through the passage in the gasket created a sucking effect that drew in oil vapors from the lifter valley. Very weird. Of course, I don't see this happening on a non V type engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Sorry DS for stepping on you one simple question but thinking like you I hope with this type thing. Done with that till fixed.


OP - know that real oils in cooling system when fixed may not be all done with work yet. Cooling system rubber parts do NOT tolerate oil well anywhere from the pressure caps, seals in a water pump, hoses that carry coolant only for their job. Most issues if any you could feel soft cooling system hoses and know it was invasive in some time AFTER all is fixed. No telling if early if anything will be needed or not quite yet if new,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Your right, oil in the coolant system is going to turn the hoses and other rubber components into mush eventually. The hardest part is flushing the system of oil after the repair. Sometimes it takes many many flushes. We've been successful with using simple green mixed with water. I've heard other's using cascade dish washing powder, but either way it is going to take a lot of flushing.

Response From Matt1312020

Thanks for all the advice. I've only owned the car a short time so was unsure if it's been overheated in the past or not. Since my initial post I've started noticing some misfires while driving, and so we did a compression test and one of the cylinders was a little low. We got into contact with the previous owner and they admitted that it has overheated, and they had to pull the thing apart to replace the head gasket right before selling it. So we've got a new head gasket in there already apparently. I could easily be wrong since I have little experience with cars, but this leads me to believe it is almost certainly a cracked head :/

I think the best option right now would probably be just to buy a new motor. Your thoughts?

EDIT: Have been flushing the cooling system regularly to try and avoid the build up of much oil in the radiator to try and prevent damage to the cooling system. Took the thermostat out to try and flush the system better but it seems it's already wrecked the seal on the thermostat. Will definitely be keeping an eye out for anything else in the near future.

Response From Discretesignals

If you have the money, putting a good low mileage used engine or even a new engine would be a smart move. Especially if you want to keep the vehicle for a long time.

When an engine overheats like that, there is no telling what kind of damage was done. You might fix the oil leaking into the coolant problem by installing another head, but later on the engine might start burning oil because the rings are cracked. If the engine had overheated and had coolant in the oil, but they fixed the blown head gasket and flushed the bottom end out, it could end up with a knocking later on from damaged engine bearings. Just too many things that can go wrong or unknowns when an engine is overheated. Starting off with a clean slate would be a wise choice.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Matt: Dunno where DS is hiding so I'll try based on his question. Automatics frequently use an end tank in radiator for cooling transmission fluid, standards not so much. Look anyway at radiator end tanks for anything that might carry oil in and out - engine or other. Doubt transaxle oil - look anyway.


If any oil cooled in those mixes in it will usually make like a milky mess and oils easily harm cooling system rubber too. Worse is coolant getting into items that are using oil. Fix is what went which way that might be harmed and radiator is at fault - new one only, not fixed.


Check if you find lines and to what and that item(s) cooled by that oil if coolant mixed in there.


Would be an awful mistake if somehow oil of any kind was put in radiator by mistake but guess could happen. Other is possible engine gasket (head?) could mix up there but don't hear of that much on anything. Do look, it's real important to get this fixed ASAP,


T

03 Shogun 3.2 overheating when towing

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From amy789icy on 03 Shogun 3.2 overheating when towing

I have an 03 Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DID Warrior. Its a diesel and an automatic and has done 80,000 miles. I regularly tow a trailer and a horse. Up until last week it has always been fine. Last week it went to overheat. I managed to pull over and let it cool down. When I checked the radiator it had no water in it. I refilled it and have regularly had to refill it. There is no obvious leak and no wet patch under the car when it has been parked overnight. A couple of days ago I put radweld in the radiator and yesterday when I towed the temperature gauge rose almost to high. When I checked the radiator and reserve tank later, they were still full! I took it to the garage. They were adamant it was the head gasket, but on doing tests it showed it wasn't. They were then scratching their heads as to what it could be. They said it could be the radiator or the viscus fan? or the water pump. They said to change the radiator to see if its that first, and then the fan if not and water pump. I said I don't want to pay out for things if its not the problem, but they said there was no other way of knowing! I don't know what to do now as I'm none the wiser and I just want my car fixed.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You started out with a coolant leak that could have been located and repaired. Now that you have added the sealer, you will likely have to change the radiator now even if it wasn't your original problem. There is no such thing as "mechanic in a can" and the only ones these products benefit are the people that sold them.

You need to pressure test the cooling system and determine where the coolant is going.