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Best Selling Genuine Mercury Water Pumps

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  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mercury Replacement Water Pump Parts

We stock Water Pump parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Sable, Villager.

GMB
2011 Mercury Milan Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L GMB

P311-0871FB6    W0133-1910135  New

Qty:
$44.89
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • w/o Housing, Pump Only
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Milan V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Gates
2007 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L Gates - with Gasket

P311-5A8F437    W0133-1835878  New

Qty:
$95.55
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
  • with Gasket
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Gates
2007 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L Gates

P311-5A8F437    W0133-1835878  New

Qty:
$95.55
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Water Pump Motorcraft

P311-488D09A    W0133-2076731  New

Qty:
$159.22
Motorcraft Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Sable
Gates
2010 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L Gates - with Gasket

P311-3793356    W0133-1816645  New

Qty:
$83.70
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
  • Includes Gasket
  • with Gasket
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Motorcraft
2011 Mercury Milan Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.5L Motorcraft

P311-5F3AB98    W0133-2279522  New

Qty:
$55.15
Motorcraft Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Milan L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Metrix
2010 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.0L Metrix

P311-518310D    W0133-1811654  New

Qty:
$70.42
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Mercury Mountaineer V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Milan Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Motorcraft - Includes Housing

P311-519DE8A    W0133-2099971  New

Qty:
$147.45
Motorcraft Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Includes Housing
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mercury Milan V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Motorcraft
2006 Mercury Mariner Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Motorcraft - Includes Housing

P311-519DE8A    W0133-2099971  New

Qty:
$147.45
Motorcraft Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Production: 01/31/2006-
  • Includes Housing
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2006 - Mercury Mariner V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968 Fr:01-31-06
Motorcraft
2010 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.6L Motorcraft

P311-03360A3    W0133-1816645  New

Qty:
$63.96
Motorcraft Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -

Latest Mercury Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1992 Mercury Topaz Overheating..

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Matt11b on 1992 Mercury Topaz Overheating..

Hey all, I have a 92 topaz and if I drive somewhere kinda far with no stops the car is fine, but whenever I go to a few places "stop and go" it starts overheating.. Coolant levels are fine, as is oil levels. Im thinking ither bad hoses or water pump? Any help is appreciated! Thanks.



Matt

Response From Jeff Norfolk Top Rated Answer

Sounds like the cooling fan is not coming on. When you are driving there is enough air going though the radiator to keep the car cool. When you slow down or stop so does the air. The fan should come on after the car sits and idles for a while after the car has reached normal operating temp.

Response From Matt11b

You know what that may be it, Is switching out a fan an easy job? Thanks


Matt

Response From Jeff Norfolk

It is not real hard. What you need to do is run it at idle till the fans come on or it starts to get hot. Then check the plug that gosina the fan. It will probably be a two wire plug. One for power, one for ground. If you have power and ground but no fan than the fan motor is bad. If no power and ground than it could be something else. Like a fan relay, fuse ect. Probably the fan motor is bad(this is the most common) but it would not hurt to check first.

Response From Matt11b

Thanks for the help.



Matt

overheating

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From fuzzy1 on overheating

Hello again,
I have a friend with a 1997 Mercury Sable 3.0 dohc with over 300,000 miles. He bought it at auction and it ran great for 3 days and then the a/c compressor clutch gave out. He replace the clutch and after reassembling the engine now overheats. He then replaced the thermostat and no luck. The cooling fans are working. There is no heat coming out the the vents in the dash suggesting a air pocket in the system. We removed the heater hoses and blew air in the heater core and no restrictions. Tried filling the block up through the heater core return hose and reassembled. No luck, still overheats.
Im thinking plugged radiator or bad water pump? Done some reading on Mercury forum pages and seems that everyone says water pump should be replaced every 50,000 miles and also many ppl having problems with clogged radiators. Of course these ppl in the same postings said after changing those parts it still over heated.
Any new info would help
Thanks, Fuzzy

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Was the A/C working for the 3 days it ran great? Is that now just working after the clutch?

No heat suggests low coolant level still which would also cause overheating. Plugged radiator or impellers of water pump would come on slowly, usually. Is the general air temperature wildly different after the first few days?

Feel heater hoses with heater on full temp request and lowest fan. If one is hot and other stone cold core could be plugged. Air is no test as that will pass where liquid wouldn't.

How hot of an overheat has this now been exposed to? Boil over?

T

Response From fuzzy1

Sorry for the long delay. Site would not let me sign in password.
So to answer last reply, yes the a/c worked for the three days prior to new clutch installation. Cooling fans working. Tried filling block through heater hoses at heater core. Still runs hot and by running hot im talking boil over. We did have steady heat for a short time, maybe 5-6 minutes, then lost heater and started over heating. Never regained heat and yes one heater hose is now cold and the other is hot.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry for sign in problems. Stuff happens and I can't I can't help that

So far liquid is not available for cooling IMO and is required. Boiling anything is a gas a NG. Head gasket or still overheating likely plugs would show evidence,

T

Response From fuzzy1

True, plugs would show something,but I tried head gasket leak detector.. you know blue chemical turns yellow upon finding exhaust gas in cooling system and found nothing.. I will check plugs just to see.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Car has 300,000 miles so anything is possible,

Best bet is vapor is trying to cool it which it won't for whatever reason,


T

1978 Mercury cooling system problems

Showing 4 out of 9 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From 78merc on 1978 Mercury cooling system problems

Hello,
I just stumbled on your forum and thought I would give it a try! Please pardon the long post, but I wanted to be thorough. I have a 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis with 120K miles. I replaced the heater core myself a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday, before taking it on a long trip, I noticed that I had overfilled the radiator and it was not going into the expansion bottle. When I slammed the hood, about half a cup of antifreeze started leaking from the radiator. I drained some of the antifreeze from the radiator and went on my long trip. The car ran fine.

Today, I got under the hood and decided to blow some of the carbon out of the engine by reving the engine really hard and blowing gumout down the carb throat. My mechanic recommended doing this every once in a while to blow out the carbon. When I was under the hood revving the engine, something blew from the underside middle area of the engine bay on the passenger side and blew radiator fluid all over the engine bay and all over my face! Luckily I was wearing glasses and the antifreeze was not hot. About a gallon of antifreeze started leaking from the bottom of the car. After a face full of antifreeze, I should just take it to my mechanic, but I would still like to attempt to repair this myself. I checked the lower and upper radiator hoses, as well as the hoses connected to my heater core, and they all look OK. I also started the car a few hours later, and it didn't leak until I poured some water into the radiator, then it started to leak. I am no car expert, but I sort of suspect the water pump. My questions are....

1. Could this problem simply be that the hoses connected to the water pump have come undone or ruptured, and I could get under there and reconnect them myself??
2. I can jack up the car if I move the car out of my small garage and take a look under there. Can I safely move the car with antifreeze leaking from the bottom of the car?
3. Could this be a problem other than the water pump?
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!

Response From 78merc

Last question I promise. I got the car outside and tracked down the leaking hose. It was a small J shaped hose. I managed to replace it and the car runs fine. I was wondering if it is advisable to do a flush of the cooling system on a car this old. The radiator is only five years old and the heater core is obviously brand new. I thought I might use a bottle of Prestone Super Radiator flush in addition to one of the Prestone flush kits. Thanks!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You can ask as many questions as you want. If a thread gets way to long sometimes it's best to make summary and start a new one.

There are several VERY experienced pros here and opinions can vary.

As for flushing system I say go for it but personally don't use anything for a solvent as I just get worried it could hurt something. Plain water AFTER system is empty back and forth thru items till it looks clear. Thermostat out and careful to use gentle pressure from a plain garden hose. If lots of junk is seen it was worth it and if not didn't hurt anything.

New antifreeze not exceeding 50% will help with corrosion from within. Just do know that the used antifreeze will kill plant life and the right thing to do is find out locally where you can dispose of it. My dang city will only deal with it twice a year so I take them to a friends shop as it is a hazmat. Use care if caught in a pan as pets and critters will drink it and it's deadly. Do your best.

Another great thing is to just bleed brakes with fresh brake fluid if this car is unrusted enough that you don't end up busting off bleeders or that could open a whole other project,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Another thing you want to watch out for on the Fords is electrolysis going on in the coolant system. Fords were horrible for this. I have seen a few cores replaced that failed again within a week because there was voltage running around in the coolant system. Make sure that all your body and engine grounds are clean and tight. If you took any grounds off or have any missing, put them back on.

Check for voltage in the coolant system by connecting a volt meter to the negative side of the battery and dipping the tip of the other lead in the coolant inside the radiator with the engine running and all accessories turned on. Also check the voltage while cranking the engine. If you see more than .3 volts AC or DC, check your grounds or you'll be doing that core again...and maybe even a radiator.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You''ll never cease to amaze me DS! Interesting that I found that Fords had the least problem with that and Mopars were more trouble? Climate? Something in the air? I am VERY conscious of ground straps all over the place and have added them sometimes.

Owned this car as the Ford LTD Landau version - one of my personal top 10 vehicles out of countless vehicles mostly to fix for resale given to me or to cheap to pass up. That LTD wouldn't quit if you threw grenades at it! Died from rust running as new with an unstoppable 400M engine. Orig stuff made it way up over 200K - untouched A/C that still remains the most effective of any car I've ever been in never mind owned.

Except for rust that car was amazing and don't know why as some others of the same were a mess all the time??

"Those were the Days my friend, we thought they'd never end" (the song)


Tom

Response From chickenhouse Top Rated Answer

Wish I had that 400 M, could use it in my 78 T-Bird.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This is like an old pharts convention

Same basic car I had a '79 Cougar w the 302 that couldn't pass a turtle or spin the wheels on glare ice. Should have come with a bar on the trunk so you could push the dang thing. Oh, you want A/C and to move at the same time? Embarrassing when bicycles pass you - laugh,

Tom

Response From Hammer Time

It doesn't sound like this job is for you judging by the questions you are asking.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree with HT. This should be the last of the big Fords and one of the easiest heater cores you'll ever run across. If it's leaking that much it shouldn't be that hard to find where.

Not sure how you think you can overfill this but you could overfill the recovery tank which if all else was right would just blow that out when warmed up,

T