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GMB
1994 Mazda B2300 Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-3A65944    W0133-1760976  New

Qty:
$46.70
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mazda B2300
Metrix
1994 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L Metrix

P311-495A08D    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$65.63
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • with Gasket - Early Style Pump
  • Use with 16mm Pulley
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1994 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
NPW
1994 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L NPW

P311-2064BD2    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$71.45
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • with Gasket - Early Style Pump
  • Use with 16mm Pulley
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1994 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
Metrix
1995 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L Metrix

P311-495A08D    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$65.63
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • Use with 16mm Pulley
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
Metrix
1994 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L Metrix

P311-495A08D    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$29.34
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • with Gasket - Late Style Updated Pump
  • Use with 32mm Pulley
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1994 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
NPW
1994 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L NPW

P311-2064BD2    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$63.66
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • with Gasket - Late Style Updated Pump
  • Use with 32mm Pulley
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1994 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
Metrix
1995 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L Metrix

P311-495A08D    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$29.34
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • Use with 32mm Pulley
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
NPW
1995 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L NPW

P311-2064BD2    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$66.69
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • Use with 32mm Pulley
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
Gates
1989 Mazda MPV Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Gates

P311-2BDD656    W0133-2105392  New

Qty:
$87.76
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1989 - Mazda MPV V 2954 180
NPW
2001 Mazda Tribute Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L NPW

P311-2BED9D3    W0133-1905836  New

Qty:
$97.55
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Mazda Tribute L 1989 121
NPW
1995 Mazda MX-3 Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 1.8L NPW

P311-2064BD2    W0133-1620587  New

Qty:
$71.45
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • For use with (16mm) Water Pump Pulley Only - (Early Style) - Late style can be used if both Water Pump and Pulley are replaced
  • Use with 16mm Pulley
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Mazda MX-3 V 1845 -
GMB
1994 Mazda Miata Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-3827C3E    W0133-1841649  New

Qty:
$59.77
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket/O-Ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mazda Miata
NPW
1994 Mazda Miata Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-5C42312    W0133-1841649  New

Qty:
$80.02
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • With Gasket/O-Rings
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mazda Miata
NPW
1990 Mazda Miata Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-5D22FB7    W0133-1834089  New

Qty:
$102.61
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • - New / Without Gaskets
  • New / With Gaskets
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Miata
GMB
1990 Mazda MX-6 Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1B5654A    W0133-1834498  New

Qty:
$60.07
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Factory Pumps are Remanufactured - Ours are new
  • with Gasket/O-Ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda MX-6
NPW
1990 Mazda MX-6 Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-51A2435    W0133-1834498  New

Qty:
$102.17
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • Factory Pumps are Remanufactured - Ours are new
  • With Gasket/O-Rings
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda MX-6
GMB
1991 Mazda MX-6 Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1B5654A    W0133-1834498  New

Qty:
$60.07
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket/O-Ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Mazda MX-6
GMB
1986 Mazda B2000 Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-03802E3    W0133-1834510  New

Qty:
$55.11
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • with Round Tooth Timing Belt Drive
  • Factory Pumps are Remanufactured - Ours are new
  • with Gasket/O-Ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Mazda B2000
GMB
1984 Mazda 626 Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-03802E3    W0133-1834510  New

Qty:
$55.11
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Production: 06/01/1984-, Round Tooth Drive From: GC221..644322- GC241..611284- GC311..621947-
  • Factory Pumps are Remanufactured - Ours are new
  • with Gasket/O-Ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1984 - Mazda 626 Fr:06-01-84
GMB
1985 Mazda 626 Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-03802E3    W0133-1834510  New

Qty:
$55.11
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Production: 06/01/1984-, Round Tooth Drive From: GC221..644322- GC241..611284- GC311..621947- Factory Pumps are Remanufactured - Ours are new
  • with Gasket/O-Ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1985 - Mazda 626 Fr:06-01-84

Latest Mazda Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Replacing water pump 1995 Mazda Protege

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Ryksych on Replacing water pump 1995 Mazda Protege

Has anyone had any experience replacing a water pump on this type of car? Today the belts fell off(somewhere...) and there is no power steering or alternator belts. The water pump wiggles quite a bit and I've been looking with no luck, on any information to replace the water pump and belts.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a 1.5 or a 1.8 engine?

Response From Ryksych

Not exactly sure how could I tell?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This is going to be well beyond your capabilities. For both engines the timing belt has to be removed to access the pump and this requires considerable disassembly and knowledge to time the vehicle correctly. A mistake made in timing could ruin the motor.

2003 Mazda Tribute Overheating after 15mins of idling

Showing 6 out of 20 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From Ajharris on 2003 Mazda Tribute Overheating after 15mins of idling

2003 Mazda Tribute V-6. 3.0L with 89k miles
My 03 Tribute is also overheating, I've changed the thermostat, water pump, water pump pulley and belt, radiator as well, My coolant is not flowing from the overflow bottle the top radiator hose gets rock hard and hot after 15mins of idling and the bottom radiator hose remains soft and cool to touch. If I remove the cap off the overflow bottle the pressure releases and the top radiator hose gets soft.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You've replaced enough stuff to rule out those items but some things don't add up exactly. Upper and lower radiator hoses would be warm/hot up top and cooler/cold bottom but the pressure is the pressure dictated by the pressure cap so that doesn't make sense - it's one system. You can have some different pressure from a water pump drawing hard and fast at RPMs as well as too much pressure going to heater cores but systems take that into account by hose sizes or intentional restrictors so alone forget that for the heater.

If you feel system is pressurizing more than the stated pressure of the cap something is all wrong. The pressure cap may be on radiator or the "overflow" bottle as you put it and all pressure is limited to that but if coolant can't get to that reservoir for some reason that would change things.

Right now with it overheating you need to know if it really is at just 15 minutes. Do you mean that the gauge is on the high side or into warning area? Does heater continue to work or feel hotter - things like that are indicative or plain infrared temperatures that can target actual heat and where could help.

I think this has vapor still in the system either because it was never properly purged of air with any cooling system work or not too uncommon a failed head gasket can allow combustion gasses into cooling system which acts as air which will cause fast overheating, innaccurate or slow response to the vehicle's temp gauge and usually loss of heat at heater as vapor alone doesn't transfer heat well at all despite hot it is it needs liquid to do that.

Some (can't know each one that is a real pest) cooling system just do not fill well when touched for any reason or service and leave air that is too stubborn to purge itself out. Many just plain need to be vacuum filled as they would just take so long to properly fill with other tricks it's hard for a shop to have the time and near impossible for most DIYers to do without. Can't be done without and I'm not discussing some tricks for the fussy ones any more as it turns into a freaking novel to explain and this is already enough on my part. If only place to fill a system is at the "overflow" bottle you can't fill it properly from that when too low for any reason. If all things were normal with a system that was drained without a cap on radiator you will not succeed that way and risk overheating right away in the attempt.

1. Know system is full - truely full or get help.
2. Test for combustion gasses in cooling system.
3. Make sure any hose or passage from a recovery tank to radiator is free to pass coolant.

OK - You did all this for some reason to begin with no doubt overheating but that's a guess so why did you do all this?

Response From Ajharris

The temp gauge stays in the normal range, but the top radiator hose gets really hard and feels as if it wants to burst. When I remove the overflow cap the coolant backs out and the top hose gets soft and pressure is release. It seems as if something is stopping the water from entering the engine block both A/C and heater works fine. There is no cap on the radiator only on the overflow bottle

Response From Sidom

Well...this is a strange problem.......With most overheating problems you will see a rise in the temp, that's almost a given...

It is normal for a cooling system to build pressure, that is how they operate. Every pound of pressure you put on the system raises the boiling point by 1 degree. This is how systems can have cooling fans coming on in the 225 degrees range with no problems & on the reverse when you get a cap that won't hold pressure,,,,this will cause probems....

I would have to see this one but would think that from a cold stone start, you wouldn't see that much pressure that fast.....I would probably start off with monitering the computer datastream to see what temps the computer is seeing as opposed to what is showing on the dash......Take some temp reading on the block & around the t stat housing to see if it's overheating.....and then check the system to make sure exhaust gases aren't getting in from a head gasket going bad.....

I guess what I would want to know right now, since you say the temp is always in the normal range.......what brought your attention to this "problem"

Response From Ajharris

The temp gauge does go into the red but it's about after 30mins of idiling much later after the hose swells. I recently had problems with the truck overheating and shutting down after 20 mins of driving. I was told that the engine wasn't getting enough oil and was overheating and shutting down. I had the oil sender switch replaced and now the truck will continue to run but the overheating remains.

Response From Sidom

At this point I'm not real sure there is a problem......like a said it's normal for a cooling system to build pressure.....It needs that pressue to raise the boiling point....I was under the impression it was 1 degree for 1 lb......Tom is saying it's 3 degrees for 1lb but either way the system needs that pressure.....

Remote reservoirs are different some you will see some coolant flow & other ones are just for overflow and you won't see any movement....If you are talking about this Mazda as the "truck" there is no overheat shut down.....I would have to look up the different strategys for the PCM. Some had oil pressure tied into starting & wouldn't start with no pressure but no shut downs that I'm aware of.....

Now big rigs are different,,,,,They do have those safe guards for overheating

Response From Ajharris

But what would cause the temp gauge to go into the red zone if the truck wasn't overheating. The pressure build up is right at the thermostat housing it isn't thru out the whole hose only where it connects to the thermostat housing right before it enters the engine block

Response From Hammer Time

That's just impossible. The pressure is equal throughout the system.

You just need to let someone else look at this truck.

Response From Ajharris

The top hose coming from left side of radiator gets hot but I can completely squeeze and collapse hose if you follow the hose to the right side of the engine where it connects to the thermostat housing the hose swells up and becomes rock hard and can not be squeezed to even fill if there is water flowing. The bottom hose from the right side of the radiator is cool to touch and can be squeezed and collapsed even at the point where it also connects to the thermostat housing

Response From Sidom

Ok....I see where you said it does go into the red zone 1/2 way down....

You really seem to be describing a flow problem.....a no flow problem.......Was there any change to the original problem after you put all the new stuff on?

You may have got a bad T stat or a pump with a loose impellar......I've seen that before.....you may have to go back & double check some of the new stuff.....wouldn't be the 1st time the new parts were bad

Response From Ajharris

Yes, originally the car would shut down and refuse to start until it cooled off, I bought it to Firestone and they said that the engine wasn't receiving enough oil and was causing the engine to overheat and shut down, they replaced the oil pressure sender/switch. Now the truck won't shut down but I'm having problems with the overheating from a coolant standpoint I guess. When the hose swells at the point where it connects to the thermostat housing it gets really hard. This was stupid I know.....but I took a pair of pliers and slowly removed the clamp from around the hose and you can hear a hissing noise and steam. This is the only spot on the hose that swells to the point where it can't be squeezed

Response From Sidom

I think there is some confusion on here (at least on my part) on what parts have been changed in relationship to this problem happening......

If just an oil sending unit has been changed since this problem has startred, then everything needs to be looked at and I would start with the easiest/cheapest thing and that would be a T stat...

One of the biggest mistakes someone can make is not checking a part because it's been changed recently or even being brand new.....

Response From Ajharris

Sorry for the confusion and thanks for continuing to try and help me I really appreciate it. After the oil sender was changed and I start to have the coolant overheating problem. I have since changed 2 thermostats, water pump, water pump tensioner pulley and belt and radiator.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Not even remotely possible however the the hose rubber can be more rigid in one than the other.

Response From Sidom


The temp gauge stays in the normal range, but the top radiator hose gets really hard and feels as if it wants to burst.
Now there is conflicting info.....I was under the impression the gauge NEVER went into the red...... It would be impossible for the top hose to have excessive pressure in one end & not the other unless there was some type of barrier in that hose......I can't see the engine....I know when some hoses start to go bad they will get swollen and can expand more on the end that is going bad but there will be pressure thru the whole hose

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No surprise that letting the pressure out of a system the whole system losses pressure. Why would that confuse you? I mean no insult but that's like letting air out of a tire and top or bottom still has pressure

"ROCK HARD" isn't a measurement just your idea of the pressure. If a system pressures up from when it was released too fast that indicates a problem. Air in a system will heat up fast, total liquid takes longer and the pressure is simply expansion of coolant (normally) to be released at specified rating on the pressure cap to reservoir and able to return it when it contracts cooling down.

BTW - Common system pressures reach about 15 PSI which is some real pressure. You can drive most tires on that much. I don't know of systems ever that exceeded perhaps just a few up to 18 PSI. More than that things will let go or break in most. Pressure testers have warning area (at least mine) not to go that far or beyond. A good pressure tester will also test the pressure cap and about now I think you should do that.

ALL WARNINGS BE KNOWN THAT PRESSURE RAISES BOILING POINTS AND IF RELEASED TOO FAST OR WHEN TOO HOT IT WILL FLASH BOIL AND CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS! If confused by that you should let another check things out,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again - give us some time. Some things are one word answers and some take some time. This is not some helpline out of India (me bad) on call 24 hours. It's free to use and all volunteer time as they have it and are not always here,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just saw your note posted before my post. Give us a chance. I'm not copy and pasting crap but writing things as I know them. If you want faster answers than mine read a manual on how to fill a cooling system specific to your vehicle...... T

Response From Ajharris

Sorry I am new to this whole forum type system but really do appreciate the knowledge that you guys share at no cost as I've had tried those sites that charge you in the past. Sorry

Response From Ajharris

Any suggestions

Replacing a Mazda water pump

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From dan1223 on Replacing a Mazda water pump

Hello, I am looking for advice before I to agree to help a friend with something I might not be able to finish. Her daughter just bought a 1995 Mazda Protege with a leak (and a whole lot else). It looks to be a water pump and she asked if I would fix it. If I am not mistaken I have to go through the top end to get this done. I'm your typical shade tree mechanic, more comfortable with a V8, and these OHV motors can tend to be a BIG job. Do you have to go through the valve train to replace the pump on one of these? Also, how many shop hrs. would this take? I'm not real excited about the liability for a mistake such as timing. Advice???
Thanks

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Dan; Depending on which engine, the labor calls for an average of 3.5-4.0 hrs. Pretty sure that the timing belt has to come off to do the pump, so might plan on replacing it while you have it off. This is an interference type engine, meaning valve damage is possible if the belt is mis-installed. Your call.

Response From dan1223

Thanks Loren for the advice. The last thing I want to do is bend some valves. I have never replaced a timing belt. Once in my youth, in a desperate attempt to impress some girl, I told her, "yea I can fix that for you". Well... long story short, I had no idea how to fix that. And as you know, many of us want-to-be mechanics have gotten burned with promises we could not deliver on. I'm sure your shop has steady income from guys like me. I haven't done this work before and maybe this isn't the time to start.
I would like to help, but I don't want to spend my weekend on something I have no experience with. As for the girl I was trying to impress, It ended up costing me money to fix her car that she used to travel to see her new boyfriend a few towns away. She was right. She had no idea how to thank me, because she didn't (but I'm sure her boyfriend appreciated it). I think this one might end the same way.

Dan

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

dan; LOL. The trick is to get the 'thankyou', first. LOL. Never worked for me, either. LOL. I married my 15 yr. old girlfriend 38 years ago.

Response From dan1223

Loren, And you have been fixing her car ever since I'm sure. Sounds like a bargain for 38 years of marriage. You got some mileage out of that one. I'll have to think about this before I commit. Congratulation on your 38 years. I have socks that lasted longer than my marriage.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

dan; Hmmmmm? I never thought about that! Yes, I have been fixing her car ever since. Needs gas? Honey! (She has NEVER put gas in a vehicle). LMAO. Needs maintenance? Honey!

Response From dan1223

Loren, If my ex. would have asked for a car instead of a divorce she would be driving a NEW Mercedes right now. It would have been cheaper. LOL. Dan