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Best Selling Genuine Plymouth Valve Cover Gaskets

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Victor Gaskets, Victor Reinz, Ishino Stone, Original Equipment, Mahle, Mopar
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Plymouth Replacement Valve Cover Gasket Parts

Victor Gaskets
1976 Plymouth Duster Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-2747725    VS39745  New

VS 12680 R , VS 12680 , VS719 , 2899250 , VSZ2103 , VSZ2104

Qty:
10.38
Victor Gaskets Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • ; Cork-Rubber Cast Iron Cylinder Block
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Hole Quantity: 8
    • Material: Cork-rubber
    • PCV Valve Grommet Included: No
    • Thickness:
      • 0.11
      • 2.87
    • Valve Cover Gasket Material: Cork-rubber
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1976 - Plymouth Duster L 6 Cyl 3.7L 225 3687
Victor Gaskets
1976 Plymouth PB100 Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-2747725    VS39745  New

VS 12680 R , VS 12680 , VS719 , 2899250 , VSZ2103 , VSZ2104

Qty:
10.38
Victor Gaskets Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • ; Cork-Rubber
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Hole Quantity: 8
    • Material: Cork-rubber
    • PCV Valve Grommet Included: No
    • Thickness:
      • 0.11
      • 2.87
    • Valve Cover Gasket Material: Cork-rubber
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1976 - Plymouth PB100 L 6 Cyl 3.7L 225 3687
Victor Reinz
1990 Plymouth Colt Engine Valve Cover Gasket Victor Reinz

P311-1F8CB7B    W0133-1640518  New

Qty:
19.10
Victor Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
Brand: Victor Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1990 - Plymouth Colt GL
Ishino Stone
1990 Plymouth Colt Engine Valve Cover Gasket 4 Cyl 1.6L Ishino Stone

P311-41A7897    W0133-1633610  New

Qty:
29.34
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Plymouth Colt Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1597
Original Equipment
1994 Plymouth Colt Engine Valve Cover Gasket 4 Cyl 2.4L Original Equipment

P311-118C69D    W0133-1637807  New

Qty:
16.54
Original Equipment Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Plymouth Colt Vista FWD L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Ishino Stone
1991 Plymouth Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.0L Ishino Stone

P311-042887C    W0133-1648380  New

Qty:
31.68
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Plymouth Voyager V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Ishino Stone
1988 Plymouth Grand Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.0L Ishino Stone

P311-042887C    W0133-1648380  New

Qty:
31.68
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 12/1987-
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1988 - Plymouth Grand Voyager V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972 Fr:12-00-87
Ishino Stone
1989 Plymouth Grand Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-042887C    W0133-1648380  New

Qty:
31.68
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -12/1989
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
1989 - Plymouth Grand Voyager LE To:12-00-89
Mahle
1997 Plymouth Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.8L Mahle

P311-1142FC9    W0133-1669624  New

Qty:
29.86
Mahle Engine Valve Cover Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Plymouth Voyager V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3778
Mopar
1992 Plymouth Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.3L Mopar

P311-4393EC5    W0133-1669624  New

Qty:
31.03
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Plymouth Voyager V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Mahle
1996 Plymouth Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.3L Mahle

P311-1142FC9    W0133-1669624  New

Qty:
29.86
Mahle Engine Valve Cover Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Plymouth Voyager V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Mahle
1998 Plymouth Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket Mahle

P311-1142FC9    W0133-1669624  New

Qty:
29.86
Mahle Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • ; w/o Isolator Mounted Valve Covers
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
1998 - Plymouth Voyager FLEX
Mahle
1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.8L Mahle

P311-1142FC9    W0133-1669624  New

Qty:
29.86
Mahle Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • ; w/o Isolator Mounted Valve Covers
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Plymouth Grand Voyager V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3778
Mopar
1999 Plymouth Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 6 Cyl 3.3L Mopar

P311-4393EC5    W0133-1669624  New

Qty:
31.03
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; w/o Isolator Mounted Valve Covers
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Plymouth Voyager GAS V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Mopar
1998 Plymouth Neon Engine Valve Cover Gasket Mopar

P311-571A069    W0133-1669326  New

Qty:
23.33
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Engine - ECB
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Plymouth Neon
Mopar
1999 Plymouth Neon Engine Valve Cover Gasket Mopar

P311-571A069    W0133-1669326  New

Qty:
23.33
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Plymouth Neon
Mopar
2000 Plymouth Breeze Engine Valve Cover Gasket 4 Cyl 2.0L Mopar

P311-571A069    W0133-1669326  New

Qty:
23.33
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Steel Valve Cover
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Plymouth Breeze L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1996
Mopar
1998 Plymouth Breeze Engine Valve Cover Gasket 4 Cyl 2.4L Mopar

P311-5150A1F    W0133-1669470  New

Qty:
41.00
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Engine - EDZ
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Plymouth Breeze L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 2429
Mopar
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Engine Valve Cover Gasket 4 Cyl 2.4L Mopar

P311-5150A1F    W0133-1669470  New

Qty:
41.00
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Plymouth Grand Voyager L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 2429
Mopar
2000 Plymouth Prowler Engine Valve Cover Gasket Mopar

P311-3D06D8E    W0133-1771664  New

Qty:
31.28
Mopar Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Plymouth Prowler

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

lost oil

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on lost oil

1989 plymouth reliant 2.2

A small round black cap came off the side of the engine,its at the end of the engine on drivers side. and most of the oil sprayed out. I found the cap and put it back on, but was wondering why it came off and I can't tell what holds the cap on. Is it something that happens alot with this 2.2 (because I just got the car) or is it nothing to worry about?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

If it's about 2 1/2 inches in diameter, it's probably the cam seal part of the valve cover gasket. You should replace the valve cover gasket and the seal. Yes, it's important to keep the oil inside the engine.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

the valve cover gasket isn't leaking. I just can't figure out why the cap came off. I put it back on and seems to be staying on. just wanted to know what to do to prevent it from happening again.
Thanks

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Not sure how to explain or describe what I think it is you are referring to. If it is the plastic cap that I mentioned, it has 'grooves' to it, so when you push it in, it's not supposed to come back out. If it comes back out again, you should replace it. I'll google it and see what I can come up with.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Think I found it Loren!





Was listed as "Camshaft Seal" if that helps??

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Atta boy, Luther! I looked and looked and looked..... Thanks!

Response From Guest

Yes thats it!!! now why did it come loose? I put it back in and tryed to get it back out and couldn't.
was told by someone, if it does it again to clean it up good and put some kind of adhesive on it to hold it in.
thanks all

Engine gaskets

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From IgnorantVanman on Engine gaskets

Hi! I'm here, because I have no friggin' clue what I'm doing. I have a 1988 Plymouth Grand Voyager van that has been leaking oil. It's been evaluated by a mechanic whose says I need to replace ALL of the engine gaskets. Now, I got a damn Hayne's Guide, but I don't really understand anything. You see, I am COMPLETELY 100% ignorant when it comes to anything cars. You might ask :well why didn't the mechanic just fix it for you?" Good question. The answer is: he said it was too much work and he would end up charging way too much than it is worth. Well, heh heh, I guess that means I have to replace the damn things. Unfortunately, the Hayne's Guide doesn't exactly have a chapter on how to remove and replace engine gaskets. Could some PLEASE help me here? I need to know exactly, step-by-step, what to do. Don't worry about tools; you name them, I've got them. A helpful website would also be appreciated if you don't feel like helping me verbally. Thanks!

Response From techforfree Top Rated Answer

I might tend to agree with the dumbass theory..pretty unlikely all the gaskets would need replaced..You didn't state what engine was in the van but most that yr had the 3.0 ltr. in em and a very common problen for oil leaking was the rear cam plugs that were made of rubber and liked to crack with age,not a serious problem,another problem was valve cover gaskets,and oil pressure sending unit on the front of the engine..tell us what engine and what side of the engine might help in narrowing down the problem...Good luck

Response From IgnorantVanman

Sorry I forgot about the engine! *facepalm* It is a 3.0L V6. It supposedly "leaks every direction," but I think it's leaking more in the front.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Smile - I may be older than dirt but don't think I've totally lost it yet

General with leaks in automotives. Highest and most forward. Somewhere gravity and fan(s) puts a mess everywhere. Takes baby powder or clean area a watch to find them. As said, usually just one but I'm not there. Can you see me in a store buying baby powder? Laugh - I'm really just a normal old Phart and childless for reasons. Smile and the whole world can simile with you.


Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Everyone: This is likely ONE leak making a mess NOT all gaskets?!!? Been at this crap for near 50 years and short of a wild (exact age withheld) overheat or engine fire never heard of needing all gaskets!

NO!

Enough,

T

Response From Hammer Time

You really don't want to attempt this. The reason he is blowing you off is because when these things start leaking out of every orifice, you can be chasing these leaks forever and he doesn't want to be responsible. The way it has to be approaches is you have to locate and repair the highest leak first. The other reason he chased you away is that you can be repairing leaks forever and the labor can far exceed the value of another engine. This job certainly isn't for you. You might want to let a different mechanic look at it and see if maybe there are one or two leaks that can be resolved to stop the bulk of leaks.

Response From IgnorantVanman

Thanks for the advice. Someone else told me I should put some oil in there, run it, and see exactly where it is leaking. Apparently the mechanic may be a dumbass! The only problem is, I HAVE to repair this van, and another one just like it, because my uncle is undeterred. We currently have a gas-guzzling truck and a jeep that's falling apart right now, and he doesn't want to just throw away the vans or get a new one, so I'm stuck. We need the extra ride, you see. However, if it's really not worth it, i'll see if I can convince him to just replace the whole engine. Thanks again!

Response From Hammer Time

If he wants to be stubborn, he will be kicking himself in the end. When oil leaks it spreads everywhere and it's not so easy to find the origin. Some leaks can require major dis-assembly and you get it all back together to find out you have 3 more leaks. Have fun.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just comments on this: ALL GASKETS! I doubt that. One good one up high can oil up the whole engine and drip from items that aren't leaking from there.

If engine is blowing by more from combustion chamber (pistons) from wear OR PCV system is not keeping up with blow-by leaks will just be aggravated by things that seal engine oil.

Trick - borrow a cigarette or smoking stick (incense) and just pull up on dipstick holding smoke near open tube. Smoke should go down the tube not pushed away areas subject to misting oil throughout engine are aggravated as said. It's not a full diagnosis but indicates a problem,

T

breeze idling rough& pulling at stops

Showing 4 out of 24 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From RoughBreezing on breeze idling rough& pulling at stops

I have a 1997 plymouth breeze 2.0 SOHC with auto 4 speed tranny I got about a month ago it has 142500 on the odometer. I have two major problems with it...

1) When I am coming to a stop I feel the car shift to what should be neutral as I reach 3-4 MPH, then the car starts pulling itself forward in small bounces like I'm in a 5 speed and forgot to hit the clutch. It has stalled the engine a couple times but for the most part it doesn't...

2)the idle is pretty rough at times and vibrates the steering
wheel badly it has a chugging sound to it but still runs at 750 RPM I have seen it raise the rpm just a hair and the chugging stops and the engine is pretty smooth I was going to adjust the idle air screw but there is none and no MAF sensor to clean. If i rev the engine a bit it has a problem catching itself and will often stall even in gear in stop and go traffic when I start the car the RPMs go up and then drop to 500 or less then even out.

Both of these problems seem to come and go or at least get worse /better at times. I cleaned the throttle body the plugs and wires are ok aside from a bit of oil leaking into the plug compartment that I clean out regularly I used a bunch of fuel injector cleaner. The exhaust doesn't smell very rich or lean. I can't find a vac leak and the egr valve seems to be working properly the CAT rattles and I'm thinking about tapping it out. the car seems to run better when completely topped off with oil. all fluid levels are good and I'm sure there would be an engine light but its burnt out

Long post I know thanks in advance for any help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Code reading would help now. If bulbs don't light as a bulb check with just key to "run" or some just while cranking perhaps that is a problem,

T

Response From Discretesignals

I agree with Tom, you need to have the computer scanned. Write down the code numbers.

Number 1 sound like the symptoms of a torque converter clutch staying engaged when coming to a stop.

aside from a bit of oil leaking into the plug compartment that I clean out regularly I used a bunch of fuel injector cleaner.

If you mean that oil is leaking into the spark plug wells, you need to replace the valve cover gasket and tube seals.


Hollow a cat out? I didn't just read that did I?

Response From RoughBreezing Top Rated Answer

Ok so I took the car to advanced auto and had it read its throwing codes P0403 and P1390. I believe he said an egr valve flow problem and something about a misfire for the second. I don't have a lot of money to throw at the car, but I guess my first step is to replace the valve cover gaskets, plugs and wires and see if it gets rid of the misfire(which i don't hear or feel at speed, does that make sense?). As far as the egr valve goes should I be able to see it move when revving the engine? And does anyone know where to find a diagram of which hoses are the vac hoses so I can check them better? Also I was convinced it was the torque converter lockup sticking too from how its acting and I still kinda think it is. wouldn't the car have reported it by now though? Thanks for the help!

Oh and I thought maybe the cat was clogged and tapping it out is free (Sorry ozone). its my girls only transport and I could really use a cheap fix as were tight on cash for another month or so and she is afraid to drive it, heaven forbid it stalls :)

Response From Hammer Time

Misfire? I don't see any misfire code.

The P1390 says your timing belt jumped and you have an EGR issue.
Your first step is to immediately stop trying to run it and replace the timing belt.

Response From Discretesignals

One common problem on those engines that sets that P1390 is a sheared cam sprocket dowel pin. Pull the cover off and inspect the pin too.

Response From RoughBreezing

Is it possible I can re align the timing belt if its not bad or will I have to get a new one? I guess they can't cost all that much. The sheared cam sprocket, I'm assuming you mean under the valve cover...will it be easily noticable to a mechanical mind with limited car experience?

Response From Hammer Time

To add to that, no, you definitely don't want to re-use the belt and you should also replace the tensioner and water pump while in there.

Response From RoughBreezing

My moms b/f is a retired mechanic and he already offered to help change the valve cover gasket and tube seals I'm sure he will do the timing belt too but all I can find in way of timing belts is full kits for 250 and up is it possible to just get the belt? I only have about 250 total to throw at it and I need to get gaskets plugs wires and the timing belt. Will 250 cover that if I can get the work done for free? EGR will have to wait a bit I guess.

Response From Hammer Time

Let me make this perfectly clear to you. If you skimp on this job or make even a small mistake in installing it, you will be looking at a couple thousand in repairs. This engine is not forgiving. One turn of the engine with the belt out of time will bend nearly every valve. If this guy has been retired for more than a few years, he will not be familiar enough with doing this job.
I recommend you pay a shop to do this.

Response From nickwarner

Park it until you can pay a pro to do this or let the other guy send it to the scrapyard. I know it sucks to be broke but HT and DS can tell you the same horror stories I can of people who thought they could save a buck with having any so-called mechanic fic this motor. Just being able to fix some brakes or a radiator doesn't make you a true tech. Thats what we give to junior techs and even they screw the pooch from time to time. This isn't something for someone who isn't fully versed in late model engines with the toolset to go with it.

Wonder why its so damn expensive to see a mechanic for this? Thank Chrysler.

Response From RoughBreezing

Taking it to a shop probably won't be an option for me unfortunately. I was charged over 700 bucks for brake shoes engine mount windshield wipers and inspection! My options here are going to be junk it, run it into the ground or take it to my moms b/f (he's 60 and retired pretty close to 3 years now but because his spine is deteriorating not because of incompetence). at least ill have a shot at keeping it on the street with option 3 and at the very least this can be a 'what not to do to your car' post. At any rate ill keep updating this thread with any major happenings until its fixed or in the junk yard just so the information is out there.

PS: I'm not purposely ignoring you guys' advice. I just really am that broke. Thanks a million for pointing me in the right direction I would have been trying to solve a misfire problem that was really only the tip of the iceberg.

Response From Hammer Time

Being broke is not going to make this job turn out any better. If he has back problems, this is not the job to try.

Response From nickwarner

Here is one thing you can do for not a lot of money. Do to www.alldataDIY.com and get a year subscription to this car. I think its about $25. Haynes manuals don't cut it and if this guy was a pro at a good shop he has used it before. This is the data provider we all use and it costs a shop several hundred a month to have access to the whole database. Let him read through the procedure carefully and see what special tools are involved. Then he can make an informed decision as to if he can do this or not. If he can't, see if you can place decently in a demo derby because you have very little time til boom to get some cash together for another car and may as well have fun with it for the last hurrah.

If he hasn't used Alldata before, don't let him do the job. This isn't a riding lawnmower or the cars we had 20 years ago. The warnings we have given are for good reason and we have all seen wrecked engines from novices attempting to save a buck or buying just a belt instead of the kit. Your $30 water pump can and will wreck your head when it takes out the timing belt and you won't get any warning.

Response From RoughBreezing

I messaged him earlier and described what was going on and asked if he was comfortable replacing the timing belt if it wasn't a sheared cam sprocket pin. he goes to sleep early so I should have an answer in the morning. I didn't read about the alldataDIY till after I messaged him but ill be sure to ask him about it and ask if he would want me to subscribe.

Also, would a bad cam/crankshaft sensor throw the same code (P1390) or does it generate its own code? Is there any way to check them without a volt/multimeter?

Response From Hammer Time

Also, would a bad cam/crankshaft sensor throw the same code (P1390) or does it generate its own code? Is there any way to check them without a volt/multimeter?

We have told you exactly what that code means. If it could mean something else, we would have told you that.

Response From RoughBreezing

Turns out the timing belt assembly is brand new but the cam shaft is just less than a half tooth to the right when TDC. We didn't have a puller for the large pully so we couldn't adjust it though. I was messing with the EGR valve today and its functioning but not completely closing. When I hold it closed with a screw driver the idle stops chugging and sounds great. Do you think its carbon buildup since I can still press it closed or would a vac leak do the same thing? I'm planning on taking it off tomorrow and taking a look at it. ill post my findings

The car has been being drivin this whole time. Since the assembly is new I'm just going to take my chances with it especially after hearing how nice the idle was with the egr closed

Response From nickwarner

If you can push that EGR valve manually and make all troubles cease, you pretty much confirmed the issue. They can and do get sticky with age. I'd swap it out and good luck with the car. Thanks for coming back to post the fix, helps plenty of people who search older posts for similar info on their cars.

Response From RoughBreezing

The garage that did the timing belt before I owned the car, also charged me for turned rotors and new brake pads which they never actually touched... Never going to them again. Sad thing is they are a pretty established business here in central PA. Anyway, I'm not sure what the valve positioning would be at ignition with it being off that little bit but my moms b/f said it could already have a slightly bent valve but I'm assuming it will run as is untill the new assembly starts going bad right? I can definately live with how the engine sounds with the egr closed. And since it was hopping to the chug of the engine I'm hoping it will cure that too or at least dampen it. I was going to take it off and look at it but the seal to the exit of the egr looks pretty rough so ill have to wait till I get an extra hundred or so for a new unit. Some people online said you can clean them but mine looks original so its probably way past that point.

Response From nickwarner

If you had a bent valve you would have a dead miss on the cylinder and no EGR valve would help, just a new head. By the fact it runs better when you are manually closing the EGR points me toward a bad valve. Don't bother trying to clean it. Once it gets to this point new is the only way to go.

Response From RoughBreezing

Thanks for all the help! I should be able to swing a hundred with my next pay and close this thread for good hopefully.

Response From Discretesignals

I suggest you take it to your local mechanic and have them check it out. If you haven't ever done a timing belt change before, that engine isn't one you want learn on. You get it wrong and you'll end up with major engine damage and one pissed off GF. You won't be able to see a sheared dowel until you remove the cam sprocket.


edit: If it hasn't ever seen a timing belt replacement and you have 140K something on it, it is way overdue.

Response From RoughBreezing

Hmm the guy said something about a misfire for the second definately nothing about a timing belt. Does the head have to come off to get to the timing belt?

Response From Hammer Time

No, it doesn't.

The only way it could be a misfire code is if you transposed the numbers from PO304 to PO403 but the other code is still a timing belt problem and that can cause a misfire.