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Best Selling Genuine Mercury Timing Belts

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We stock Timing Belt parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Villager.

Mitsuboshi
1993 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-224E3B1    W0133-1817106  New

Qty:
$37.49
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 04/1992-08/1993
  • The Mitsuboshi belt is identical in material and dimensions to the OE Service belt, but the OE Service version has timing marks that may help those with little or no experience in changing the timing belt on this application. When using the Mitsuboshi belt, care should be to insure that the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are properly aligned before installing the belt. .
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1993 - Mercury Villager Fr:04-00-92 To:08-00-93
Mitsuboshi
1994 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-224E3B1    W0133-1817106  New

Qty:
$37.49
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1993
  • The Mitsuboshi belt is identical in material and dimensions to the OE Service belt, but the OE Service version has timing marks that may help those with little or no experience in changing the timing belt on this application. When using the Mitsuboshi belt, care should be to insure that the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are properly aligned before installing the belt. .
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - Mercury Villager To:08-00-93
Mitsuboshi
1994 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-224E3B1    W0133-1817106  New

Qty:
$37.49
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/01/1993-10/31/1993, for sprockets with Shallow-profile round teeth When using the Mitsuboshi belt, care should be taken to insecure that the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are properly aligned before installing the belt. Nissan changed the tooth design on VG30E engines from one with a shallow tooth depth to one with a deeper profile. The change occurred during the 7/93 production month. Though our catalog is accurate per information provided by Nissan, some customers have reported receiving the wrong belt for vehicles on either side of the 7/93 production month. If possible, we recommend that the type of belt on the engine be confirmed before ordering.
  • The Mitsuboshi belt is identical in material and dimensions to the OE Service belt, but the OE Service version has timing marks that may help those with little or no experience in changing the timing belt on this application. When using the Mitsuboshi belt, care should be to insure that the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are properly aligned before installing the belt. .
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - Mercury Villager Fr:09-01-93 To:10-31-93
Mitsuboshi
2002 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-590A3D4    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$42.70
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mercury Villager
Genuine
2002 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Genuine

P311-1ACE14B    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$49.04
Genuine Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mercury Villager
Mitsuboshi
1994 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-590A3D4    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$42.70
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/1993-12/1993, for sprockets with Deep- profile round teeth Nissan changed the tooth design for timing belts on VG30E engines from one with a shallow tooth depth to one with a deeper profile. The change occurred beginning with the 11/93 production month. Though our catalog is accurate per information provided by Nissan, some customers have reported receiving the wrong belt for vehicles on either side of the 11/93 production month. If possible, we recommend that the type of belt on the engine be confirmed before ordering.
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - Mercury Villager Fr:11-00-93 To:12-00-93
Genuine
1994 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Genuine

P311-1ACE14B    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$49.04
Genuine Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/1993-12/1993, for sprockets with Deep- profile round teeth Nissan changed the tooth design for timing belts on VG30E engines from one with a shallow tooth depth to one with a deeper profile. The change occurred beginning with the 11/93 production month. Though our catalog is accurate per information provided by Nissan, some customers have reported receiving the wrong belt for vehicles on either side of the 11/93 production month. If possible, we recommend that the type of belt on the engine be confirmed before ordering.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - Mercury Villager Fr:11-00-93 To:12-00-93
Mitsuboshi
1995 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-590A3D4    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$42.70
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/1994-
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - Mercury Villager Fr:01-00-94
Genuine
1995 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Genuine

P311-1ACE14B    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$49.04
Genuine Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/1994-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - Mercury Villager Fr:01-00-94
Mitsuboshi
1998 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-590A3D4    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$42.70
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1998
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Mercury Villager To:08-00-98
Genuine
1998 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Genuine

P311-1ACE14B    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$49.04
Genuine Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1998
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Mercury Villager To:08-00-98
Mitsuboshi
1999 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-590A3D4    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$42.70
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/1998-
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1999 - Mercury Villager Fr:09-00-98
Genuine
1999 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Genuine

P311-1ACE14B    W0133-1618326  New

Qty:
$49.04
Genuine Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/1998-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1999 - Mercury Villager Fr:09-00-98
Mitsuboshi
1999 Mercury Tracer Engine Timing Belt Mitsuboshi

P311-0B3B3A4    W0133-1835471  New

Qty:
$36.16
Mitsuboshi Engine Timing Belt
Brand: Mitsuboshi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Tracer
Gates
1999 Mercury Tracer Engine Timing Belt Gates

P311-23D2CEA    W0133-1835471  New

Qty:
$48.48
Gates Engine Timing Belt
  • PowerGrip Premium OE
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Tracer
Dayco
1998 Mercury Villager Engine Timing Belt Dayco - Timing Belt

P311-02B14A8    95249  New

B249 , 95249 , 13028-0B725 , T249 , 250249 , TB249 , CD-249 , 13028-0B785 , TB-249 , F4XY-6268-A , 40249 , 13028-0B700 , 026-0334

Qty:
$21.80
Dayco Engine Timing Belt
  • Camshaft Interference Engine Recommended Replacement 105,000 miles, Normal Driving Conditions
  • Timing Belt
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Hi Temp
    • Effective Length:
      • 1267
      • 49.89
    • Tooth Pitch:
      • .37500
      • 9.525
    • Tooth Profile: Round Tooth
    • Top Width: 0.99
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mercury Villager
Dayco
1998 Mercury Tracer Engine Timing Belt Dayco - Timing Belt

P311-41BEC31    95283  New

250283 , T283 , B283 , F7CE-6268-AA , 2M5Z-6268-AA , CD283 , F7CZ-6268-AA , 95283 , TB-283 , 40283 , E7CE-6268-AA , F5CE-6268-AA , 2M5E-6268-AA , TB283

Qty:
$22.78
Dayco Engine Timing Belt
  • Camshaft Recommended Replacement 60,000 miles, Normal Driving Conditions, Belt Manufactures suggested replacement
  • Timing Belt
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Hi Temp
    • Effective Length:
      • 37.13
      • 943
    • Tooth Pitch:
      • .37500
      • 9.525
    • Tooth Profile: Round Tooth
    • Top Width: 0.99
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mercury Tracer
Dayco
1998 Mercury Mystique Engine Timing Belt 4 Cyl 2.0L Dayco - Timing Belt

P311-4E63281    95294  New

40294 , 95294 , TB294 , TB-294 , B294 , 988Z-6268-B2A , 250294 , CD294 , T294 , 978M-6268-A1A , 988M-6268-B2A , F8CZ-6268-AA

Qty:
$27.26
Dayco Engine Timing Belt
  • Camshaft Interference Engine Recommended Replacement 60,000 miles, Normal Driving Conditions
  • Timing Belt
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Hi Temp
    • Effective Length:
      • 1229
      • 48.39
    • Tooth Pitch:
      • .37500
      • 9.525
    • Tooth Profile: Round Tooth
    • Top Width: 0.99
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mercury Mystique L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989
Dayco
1997 Mercury Tracer Engine Timing Belt Dayco - Timing Belt

P311-41BEC31    95283  New

250283 , T283 , B283 , F7CE-6268-AA , 2M5Z-6268-AA , CD283 , F7CZ-6268-AA , 95283 , TB-283 , 40283 , E7CE-6268-AA , F5CE-6268-AA , 2M5E-6268-AA , TB283

Qty:
$22.78
Dayco Engine Timing Belt
  • Camshaft Recommended Replacement 60,000 miles, Normal Driving Conditions
  • Timing Belt
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Hi Temp
    • Effective Length:
      • 37.13
      • 943
    • Tooth Pitch:
      • .37500
      • 9.525
    • Tooth Profile: Round Tooth
    • Top Width: 0.99
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Mercury Tracer
Gates
1996 Mercury Tracer Engine Timing Belt 4 Cyl 1.9L Gates

P311-1709D35    W0133-1629587  New

Qty:
$28.74
Gates Engine Timing Belt
  • Premium
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Mercury Tracer L 4 Cyl 1.9L 116 -

Latest Mercury Repair and Timing Belt Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 mercury tracer

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From rwhisman on 1997 mercury tracer

I checked the mercury tracer today it has no compression, can this be the timing belt, i pulled the top of the cover
back and could see that the belt is not broken. Also I took the valve covers off to see the were opening and closing. any suggestions
Ron

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Ron; Did you mean that the rocker arms are moving when you crank the engine? If so, turn the engine over by hand so that you can inspect all of the teeth of the timing belt. Many times, the belt will lose a few teeth, without breaking, and throw the cam timing off enough to lose compression. If they all look okay, you should pull the upper timing cover and line up the timing marks just to make darned sure it hasn't jumped a tooth or two due to just plain wear or a tensioner problem.
Were you having any problems prior to this? Overheating, running poorly? Overfueling can cause the cylinder walls to wash the oil off so that the rings cannot seal. Smell the oil. Does it smell like gasoline? If so, change the oil and filter, clean/dry spark plugs, put in a few squirts of oil into each cylinder and crank the engine over to distribute the oil in the cylinders. Then, reinstall the plugs and keep your fingers crossed. If it starts, it'll smoke until it burns off the oil, but you'll still need to diagnose why it was over fueling in the first place, or you'll be right back to where you were.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If belt or a chain jumped compression would be reduced or lost completly. Some engine will allow valves to crash into pistons if belt is off too much or breaks!

T

Timing Belt issues

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From japkyle on Timing Belt issues

I have a 1998 Mercury Mystique. It has a 4 cyl 2.0 engine. The timing belt went out on it. I got the hanes manual and started the repair process. I have done numerous timing chains and belts with great success. My problem is that it calls for the crank shaft pully second mark to line up with the mark on the oil pan. When I do this, #1 piston is at BDC. It needs to be at TDC. There is also a timing hole blanking plug. It says to get the crank shaft positioned and then remove the plug and install the locking pin so that the crank shaft does not move. Why???? I am able to remove the crank shaft pully bolt with an impact wrench without it moving. I have tired installing the belt with the #1 piston at TDC and the cams lined as the book says. The car runs this way, but does not have the proper power. I tried moving the #1 piston to just before TDC. This gave me good low end power but no top end. I then tried the way the hanes manual said. The car will not start at all. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

This is a VCT engine and you cannot time it without the locking tools. Those are your only reference points so the VCT adjusters can be centered.

Response From japkyle

So, how do I get the mark on the crankshaft pulleyu to match the oil pan mark and still have #1 piston at TDC???

Response From Hammer Time

As the instructions state, you use the crankshaft stop bolt. There are no marks on the cam pulleys so it can't be done without the tools.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

The OTC timing tool kit for your engine is actually only about $37. I have the same engine in my girl's car and bought that toolkit. Any engine with VVT like yours uses tools like this instead of the timing marks of the older non-VVT engines. Wonderful technology, huh? If you go to the OTC tool website you can find the tool number and most parts stores should be able to get their hands on it for you.

acceleration

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From pattik on acceleration

Hello, I have a 1998 mercury mystique. I've had the timing belt replaced twice last month because a bad pulley was shredding it. Now the pulleys have been replaced, and the belt looks good, but the car is starting to pick up speed by itself. I also hear the same tinny-sounding rattle I heard the last time the belt went bad. Now a different mechanic says it sounds like the idle motor is going bad, but the car is still safe to drive. Can an idle motor really increase acceleration when the car is in gear? And can this really be two different problems? Help!

Response From bschanz Top Rated Answer

The tinny noise, may be the exhaust heat shield underneath the car. Sounds silly, but it happens. the pickup in speed, I have no clue. Yoy may want to run it in to the shop and see if they can replicate your symptoms.

Good luck,
Ben

1994 tracer serpentine belt routing

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Donna on 1994 tracer serpentine belt routing

During a NY State yearly inspection, the mechanic told my mother in law that her serpentine belt was on wrong. At the time the car was running fine but as strange as it seems she let him change the routing. After he changed the routing. the car started running hot. She went back, he changed it again. now it doesn't get hot but the power steering doesn't work. There is no schematic or routing diagram that I can find on the car or in the engine compartment. If anyone can provide a routing diagram I would appreciate it. The car is a 1994 Mercury Tracer, Trio. The top of the engine says 1.9 SEFI Ford.

Thanks,

Frank and Donna

Response From way2old

See if this helps. Diagram from Alldatapro.


Response From Donna

Thank you but I don't see the water pump in that diagram. Can you say anything about that ?

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? In the post by way2old the top pic of belt routing shows 6 pulleys involved. I'll guess the water pump is the largest one shown with nuts towards top right.

Aren't tech manuals special?


T

Response From Double J

The water pump is driven by the timing belt.

Now the gangs all here!

Jim

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer



Here’s another diagram identifying the pulleys.

Jim’s right about the water pump being timing belt driven but it doesn’t explain why the engine ran hot?
Not that it matters anymore; I’m just curious as to why.

Where’s Dave & the Doc; it’s their turn to chime in on this.

Dan.

Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/.../repairInfoPages.htm I'm running a bit behind...trying to catch up on my work. Heres my findings.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

DAYCO Products Catalog Belt Routing Diagram
That is listed for the 1.9 with A/C. "CS" means the crankshaft pulley,

T

Response From Donna

Thanks Tom,

It's dark now. I will take a look tomorrow. Can you tell me which one is the water pump.

Frank

Response From dmac0923

did he replace the belt with a different one??? its kinda hard to vary from the proper routing. those belts dont have a whole lot of slack to make out your own belt pattern.

but from what your saying.........the belt was routed properly before she brought it in. the first time he "fixed" it he routed the belt the opposite way on the water pump thus making it spin the wrong direction and causing the over heat.

the second time he corrected the water pump but some how screwed it up on the power steering pulley which is pretty hard since almost all power steering pulleys ive delt with are v-groove pulleys and only go on one way.

look in the cars owners manual. it will have a schematic for the different engine options

Response From Donna

He has the smooth side of the belt facing the grooved pulley, definately wrong but the power steering pulley is turning, just probably in the wrong direction. It's the same belt that has been on the car for years.

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guess the gang's all here!

T

91 Capri Won't Idle

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From mitch1204 on 91 Capri Won't Idle

Hi, I bought a 91 Mercury Capri, 1.6L with 90K miles on it. It ran perfect when I bought it. Since the car done some sitting I wanted to go through the engine.

It all started when I put a new timing belt set and water pump on it. It wouldn't start. I tore it back down and double checked my timing and all the gears were correct.

I finally pulled the fuel filter off and nothing but brown sludge poured out of it. I dropped the tank and sure enough it was rusted out bad. So I bought a new tank, new fuel pump and screen and a new fuel filter.

Now it will start but will quickly die. If you rev it up above say 2000 rpms it runs smooth as a kitten. Try to idle and it stalls. Okay now I'm thinking injectors so I buy a kit and clean them replacing the screens and o-rings. All spray a good fine mist. I also replaced the intake and throttle body gasket.

It still hasn't made a difference. It still won't idle.
One thing I notice now is when I pull the fuel line off the filter there is no pressure. I've changed the fuel pressure regulator, no difference. It's pumping or it wouldn't run. This car doesn't pressurize with the key on. Only in start and run does the fuel pump come on.

Either I stretched something when I jacked the front of the motor up or something when I changed the tank. A couple things about the tank. I noticed it wet around the filler hose so I know I need to tighten it.
Also mounted to the old tank was a rollover vent. The new tank didn't have that bolt hole so I left it hanging. Is it possibly laying on it's side venting the tank and causing me problems?

I double checked my vacuum lines as that was my first thought. To me it acts like it's starving for fuel but I have no way to check the pressure the way that thing is set up. You need an inline tester. But the rail should hold pressure and it's not.

New parts: Complete new fuel system, complete new cooling system as it had a cheap plastic radiator and the fan switch was bad so I went through that. New cap, rotor and plugs. New PCV, timing belt set and front belts.

Any help would be appreciated. It's thrown me for a loop.

Response From mitch1204 Top Rated Answer

No ideas? :(

Response From Discretesignals

Kind of odd that a fuel pressure issue would cause it to run fine above 2K, but not idle. You would have to T in a fuel pressure gauge and then monitor not only fuel pressure, but fuel pressure bleed off rate. If you have excessive bleed off you'll need to figure out if it is something to do with the regulator, leaking fuel injector(s), faulty check valve, or a problem in the fuel tank with the supply line coming off the pump.

You should check for major vacuum leaks and make sure that the idle speed control system is functional. The ISC has two parts a solenoid that is computer controlled and a wax thermal valve that is closed as coolant temperature rises.

Another thing that could cause it to stall out at idle or have a rough idle is a stuck open EGR valve. The EGR valve shouldn't be getting vacuum at idle speed either.

Response From mitch1204

Thanks discretesignals. I doubled checked the vacuum today and all is good. I'll focus on the EGR tomorrow.
I know the injectors are not leaking and I've had two fuel pressure regulators on it. I went over the gas tank today so that's eliminated. The only thing I can think of is maybe the check valve in the fuel pump but that shouldn't make a difference when running. But then again I only can check for residual pressure with it off. Maybe I got a bad pump/check valve? I have a second new one I might swap tomorrow.

I did run a compression check today and all are around 140. I ohmed all the plug wires and they are good. I do hear a little miss but that can be the timing. I need it idling to set the timing correctly.

When I try to hold the throttle steady lets say 2000 rpms it does raise and drop on occasion. I figured that's the computer correcting. Another thing when I hold it at 800 rpm with the pedal then give it gas sometimes it doesn't respond. That got me looking at the TPS and VAF but it tested okay.

I'm like you with the pressure drop so I'll go over the pump tomorrow. It might be that $20 ebay special, lol.

I cleaned the ISC but that doesn't test it. I have a spare one of them so I'll swap it out.

I found out that car uses the Rotunda Super Star II tester. I need one of them and an inline fuel pressure tester. I wonder if they make an inline shrader valve for the rubber fuel line? I'll use my other tester. lol When I jumped the fuel pump test connector she pumped great.

Would you think maybe the pickup, igniter, ignition module or ECU cause them problems?

Response From mitch1204

Another thing I forgot discreet is I noticed my cooling fan is not coming on like it should. I already replaced the fan switch and relay. I have noticed it running while the car is running.

But a few times the gauge is above 3/4 and I feel it should be running after I shut her off. I turn my key off halfway between run and off the fan will come on. Not off or not on but in between the two. I have to play with the key a little.

That kind of sounds like I'm having ignition switch problems too.

Can that be related?

Response From mitch1204

This car does't have an EGR system only an EVAP. I guess because it's made in Australia? I wonder how it was sold in the USA. That's strange.

Response From mitch1204

Woot Woot! I fixed it! That was a tough one to figure out.

I said this morning let my triple check my timing. I pulled the cover off and lined up TDC and everything looked good. Then when I went to put the cover back on I noticed a deep grove cut in it from the exhaust gear. I pulled the valve cover off to make sure the cam was okay and it was. Then I tried to tighten the exhaust gear bolt and the gear was trying to go crooked on me??? So I broke her down and took the gear off.

Sure enough the tit on the cam wasn't sitting in the hole on the gear. It shifted about 3/16" to the side making my exhaust timing a little over one tooth off. I couldn't see it before for the big washer covering it.

I torqued it down properly and went over the intake cam and it was loose too but not as bad to shift off the tit. Evidently the last person that worked on the head didn't tighten these bolts down correctly. Then I put a new timing set on it and I guess the extra tightness of the new tensioner was enough to make it jump.

Now to buy a new top and some new struts and I should have a pretty fun toy!

Thanks for listening to me blab and scratch my head!

Response From Hammer Time

So, what you are saying is that you bolted the timing gear on and totally missed the dowel pin?

Response From mitch1204

I just bought the car. The cam gears were loose from before I bought it. It also has been sitting.

I put the new timing set on and didn't notice the exhaust gear sticking out 1/8th inch at that time. This time I caught it and first pulled the valve cover. After seeing that was okay I attempt to tighten it and noticed it going crooked. So I stopped and took it apart to see what was happening.

No, I'm not stupid enough to miss a dowel pin if that is what you are saying. I had no reason to take the cam gears off to put a timing belt on.

Response From Discretesignals

Glad to read you got it running good again. Thanks for the follow up. Can be reopened upon request by the OP.