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2001 Mercury Grand Marquis Steering Tie Rod Assembly TRW

P311-46085F9    W0133-1700038  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
TRW Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
2001 - Mercury Grand Marquis

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Front end alignment bad Tie rod end

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From mercuryman on Front end alignment bad Tie rod end

I have a 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis.
I had a bad ,loose inner tie rod end on the drivers side.
I replaced it, but now the car pulls to the side while driving, and feels way out of line.

Can I loosen both bolts on the tie rod sleeve, and re adjust the inner tie rod to get rid of the play in the front end.
This would be temporary , so I can get car inspected. I will go to garage for front end alignment in a few days.

Response From Hammer Time

Can I loosen both bolts on the tie rod sleeve, and re adjust the inner tie rod to get rid of the play in the front end.

Of course not. Changing the direction that the wheels point isn't going to repair worn out parts, but it will tear your tires apart if that's what you're shooting for..

Response From mercuryman

Can I loosen both bolts on the tie rod sleeve, and re adjust the inner tie rod to get rid of the play in the front end.

Of course not. Changing the direction that the wheels point isn't going to repair worn out parts, but it will tear your tires apart if that's what you're shooting for..

I already changed the inner tie rod yesterday, but it got way out of line. Can't I adjust the tie rod by rotating the sleeve?

Response From Hammer Time

Being off by even a 32nd of an inch can scrub your tires off in nothing flat. Get a proper wheel alignment done.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Yes but you won't know without the alignment machine if you are making it better or worse. That's all part of an alignment (at least good ones) and centering the steering so the wheel is straight when going straight. Even that is important as vehicles I know anyway when turning will have more freeplay on purpose to compensate for the deviation of the track if a full circle one travels further so it at a different angle to be correct.

That part is a lot of training to understand. It's not a go-cart. Many observations and you should get a before and after printout showing it's within manufacturer's specifications right on paper. Good for your car and tires to have it right on the money,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm - out of proper tow (in or out) shouldn't make the car pull from now aged front end angle training. Wheel may be off center now.

No matter - if you do this again on a standard front end part count the turns out of one of those and put exact proper replacement part back in with the same # of turns - it still needs alignment which you should do right away before you wreck tires.

If tires are not even and right on the car the alignment really can't be it's best. Sometimes and fact frequently a tires alone are worn funky from being out of line. At least have the best two on the front.

A proper alignment should include all four wheels, tire pressure even and right and height if a spring was somehow lower on one side and all other pertinent front and rear end parts. Price will be local to you. Get that done right and not look for a bargain as the right machine is insanely expensive and worth it.

Depending on where you are just being out of alignment wouldn't reject a safety inspection but IDK the test for everywhere. Some include even brake action and so on.

If your inspection is by the month rather than what day from your last than you should have time to get the alignment done first and find out if anything else is wrong,


1986 Mecury Lynx Steering ?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on 1986 Mecury Lynx Steering ?

We have a 1986 Mercury Lynx that the rod from the Steering rack that goes into the Left Front Tie Rod End snapped can that rod be replaced or do i need to replace the whole steering Rack???



Response From Double J

Thats the inner tie rod...

Click here for pix of it.


Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

How difficult is it to change this???

any help would be greatly appreciated

Email any info to me at

Clunk when slowing down

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From erickson483 on Clunk when slowing down

2003 Mercury Sable LS DOHC 170,000

This is my girlfriend's car....I was driving with her the other day and when she hit the brakes I could feel a clunk in the passenger floor board (front). It's more prominent when slowing down a slower speeds, but it has also occurred when hitting a decent size bump. She claims she's heard a pop if she turns her wheel all the way in one direction as well, but I haven't. I really don't even know where to begin with this thing....any input would be greatly appreciated.

Response From FredFrick

How about CV joints. this is front wheel drive, Right?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Could be ball joints, control arms, tie rods etc. It needs to be inspected by a suspension specialist.

Response From erickson483

Thanks guys

Response From way2old

Maybe a torn motor mount also.

Response From Hammer Time

when she hit the brakes I could feel a clunk in the passenger floor board (front).

This is why i didn't mention mounts.

Response From way2old

OK. Just another option because noises can come from anywhere.

Response From erickson483

I forgot to mention, it's one single clunk, not multiple when it occurs.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Certainly has to be found and fixed. Brakes, struts and control arm bushings all involved with holding wheels in position with assorted forces to be checked.

Might be hard to find without some help. Jounce car just sitting there. Hoisted in assorted ways to pry and inspect what can move that shouldn't with vehicle weight and hoisted. Hard to do alone unless something wildly obvious but you can't let it stay that way as it clearly suggests a safety issue at hand,


2000 Mercury Cougar 2.5L V6 Auto/ NO ABS

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From texman2010 on 2000 Mercury Cougar 2.5L V6 Auto/ NO ABS

I replaced the bearing, the ball joint, the tie rod and there is still movement on the hub up and down, and side to seems like its moving the CV joint, and when i turn the Axle, it does sound like grinding in the outer CV joint.... The vehicle had A LOT of vibration on the passenger side front wheel (which is where all these parts have been replaced) between 50mph - 65mph.... is there something i'm missing, or is changing the Half shaft going to finally fix the issue? (all the other parts were bad due to , if it turns out to be the CV joint, the cv joint being bad.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Hi texman. Usually a bad cv joint will give a ratchet type clicking noise when the wheel is cut hard and driven. If you have excessive play in the wheel, and the bearing was just replaced, double check that the axle nut didn't back off. The noise and symptom you are describing is that of an axle bearing. When you drive down the road and hear the noise, move the steering wheel to the left and right. If the noise is present in one direction, and disappears in the other, there is a bad axle bearing.


Rack & Pinion-how bad is this problem & can I fix it?

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From audioresearch on Rack & Pinion-how bad is this problem & can I fix it?

The car is a 1983 Mercury LN7. It is essentially the same as a Ford EXP which is better known.

It has a manual (not power steering) rack & pinion steering system. On the passenger side end, the rack has a lot of play in it, it will move up and down inside its outer tube until it hits the top or bottom of the outer tube.

Two mechanics acted like this problem was the end of the world. Just how serious is it really? I think the car has been driven with this problem for almost a year and until a mechanic found it while checking the car for other problems, we did not even know of the problem because when driving the car, the steering seemed to work fine.

If you guys think it really is serious, I am interested in any advice on how I can fix the this unit. I want to avoid replacing it, so please do not advise me to replace it. I have not yet
found any decent cut-away diagrams or photos of a typical unit, so I don't know what is inside it except for the joints at either end of the rack for the tie rods and the pinion/rack gears that mesh. In particular, I have no idea what bushing/bearings/whatever are supposed to be there to hold the rack from flopping around like mine is.

I hope the problem is just a bad bushing and that I can just replace it.

Please advise me on how to try to diagnose the specific cause of the loose rack and how to fix the rack.

Thanks very much.

Response From audioresearch

I looked through the Ford Master Parts Catalog that covers the car and found that there is one bushing used on the passenger side end of the outer tube of the rack/pinion unit. I found one for sale on ebay and am buying it. It is nothing more than a plastic ring that snaps into some slots on the end of the rack/pinion outer tube.

Even with the bushing missing on my unit right now, the inner rack shaft (the one that has a flat section with teeth cut into it) can only move around a little bit until it hits against the inside of the outer tube. It probably actually can't even move as much as a half inch off its correct centered position in any direction. I don't consider that to be dangerous at all, not even close, and it is typical over-reaction from mechanics trying to scare customers into parting with money they really don't have to part with. I'm going to replace the missing part because I think it might affect the alignment of the front wheels, not because I think it is anything that could ever be dangerous.

Not in a million years would I ever pay $100 or more for someone to rebuild the rack/pinion unit when all they have to do is spend less than 10 minutes to install a $12 plastic part.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, it's pretty obvious that you think we are all just a bunch of incompetent fools that are just out to rip you off so you should find your help elsewhere.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yup - we're all just rip-off artists. Can fix anything for free or $12 bucks and charge anything we want. You'll find out when it doesn't work or last for a week,


Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Just another moron. After all, what can go wrong when a steering gear gets wasted?

It's not like it could jam or break off a tie rod or anything like that.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Perhaps this can use a new wiring harness! We can suggest someone with enough time on their hands to do that


End This

Response From Hammer Time

I don't think it's serious. The only thing that will happen is you could lose your steering. You don't need that, right

You need a new rack and pinion and probably a couple of tie rod ends, then a wheel alignment.

Response From audioresearch

Thanks for your reply but I'm looking for info on what is inside the rack/pinion that is supposed to stop the rack from having the play that mine has.

Response From Hammer Time

The rack is not serviceable. there are no parts available, They sell remanufactured units.

Response From audioresearch

If someone else can rebuild/remanufacture these,then so can I if I really want to. I have a friend with a machine shop and can make any metal part that is inside these units.

The only question is do I really want to do this myself and that is why I'm trying to find out what internal parts there are that failed so I can scope out what will be involved in fixing or remaking the bad part(s).

I have no use for remanufacturers who sell junk that breaks and believe me if I find an opening, I will make parts available myself and will do everything in my power to put those 3rd-rate junk companies using junk foreign labor smack out of business.

If you or anyone else here can give me any tips about what's inside these units, please do. In the meanwhile, I'm going to take the original rack/pinion unit apart if I can and find out for myself.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, good luck with that.

Response From audioresearch

If I get anywhere pulling the unit apart, I'll post my findings.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

1983! Is that correct? You'll lose a friend in the machine shop trade over this most likely.

Can't believe and not hunting but don't know this car by name at all. Doesn't matter the unit should be sold already done to put on and should go that way only. When it works you give back the old one to be "rebuilt" again if there's any demand for them at all anymore.

The dinky little parts of rebuilding things are not sold easily to non rebuilders at all - forget it. Making your own parts, seals, bearings, bushings with known materials that can tolerate the forces upon it is a whole different world of the repair thing at all.

Yes - you see people make custom cars and things from scraps that make fun shows - even I like that stuff. Some are so targeted for custom work they really can do this stuff part to copy or not.

Find the right part already rebuilt. Machine work or not you will be lost to so much as seal it from water and be wrecked in no time. Just find the parts,


Response From Discretesignals

Why don't you take it apart to see what is worn out inside and to see if it something you can fix? There is service information available and parts to rebuild it. For $100 plus shipping you can get a rebuilt unit that is going to use the same parts you would use to rebuild it yourself.