Best Selling Genuine Jeep Tie Rods

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Jeep Replacement Tie Rod Parts

We stock Tie Rod parts for most Jeep models, including .


Sorry, no results were found.


Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Inner Tie Rod End question

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From oubobcatac on Inner Tie Rod End question

Hello there,

I have a 2010 Jeep Patriot (2.0L, front-wheel drive). The other day, in the process of moving, I had what turned out to be too much load in the car. The steering wheel would shake at 60 mph. I unloaded it, took it back on the highway, and now the shake was only apparent over 70 mph and on bends in the road. It was very slight but noticeable.

I took the car in for a tire rotation and balance to see if that would work. The guy performed this work, but he said I also need an inner tie rod end replacement (followed by an alignment). But he said that it's difficult to replace the inner tie rod end without also having to replace the outer, so he gave me a price quote for both options (just doing the inner and doing both).

Any suggestions on whether I should do just the inner or both the inner and outer?

Thanks in advance,
Anthony

Response From oubobcatac

I probably should have added that the car does not have many miles on it -- 27k.

Response From Discretesignals

Without being there to look at it, can't really give you confirmation on their diagnosis.

To replace the inner tie rod the outer tie rod has to be removed. You don't have to replace the outer tie rod if it is good.

If the outer tie rod is bad or the boot is ripped on it, then it should be replaced along with the bad inner tie rod. Since the outer has to be removed to replace the inner, the labor overlaps. This means you don't have to pay labor to replace the outer if they are doing the inner.

Response From oubobcatac Top Rated Answer

I appreciate the quick response. Do you think that's something he could figure out in the process? In other words, can I tell him to go in with the idea of just replacing the inner, but, if the outer looks bad, replace that, too? He was making it sound like an either/or proposition, which seems a strange thing for me to have to decide.

Response From Discretesignals

Ask your mechanic if the outer tie rod is worn or faulty and in need of replacing. Have him/her show you why those components need to be replaced. Having him/her show you the problem will answer a lot of your questions.

Response From oubobcatac

OK, thanks!

2006 Jeep Liberty Steering Wheel Shakes when braking

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From SandiP on 2006 Jeep Liberty Steering Wheel Shakes when braking

Hi! I'm hoping someone can help me figure out what is going on with my Jeep. About a year ago I noticed that the steering wheel would shake when I pressed on the brakes. I've had the brake pads and rotors replaced since this started and wasn't told there were any other issues. To be honest I didn't ask about this specific problem. The shaking has gotten much worse and I have taken my Jeep to 2 mechanics and neither could tell me what was wrong. The shaking happens as soon as I press on the brakes but if I am using the cruise control, there is NO shaking. I do have over-sized tires and a lift on my Jeep. Both mechanics thought that might be the problem. I replaced the tires and the problem is still there. Any ideas??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I tend to agree with the two mechanics - vehicle is altered so all bets off but still need to know all front end parts are tight and not worn.


Dunno what you mean about the cruise control as that shuts off instantly if you touch the brakes so why would that matter?


Sometimes new or not rotors are just not right out of the box. Even machining them doesn't solve all or for long. If a brake is just slightly dragging that wheel will be warm to hot which can aggravate braking and hence the shake felt in steering wheel.


More: Is this or should it be equipped with a steering damper (shock for steering not suspension) ?? It's on the maybe list IMO too.


IDK - I'd hoist front wheels and see them spin free and check all parts for free-play -- not much of any allowed. The lift all depending may have hopelessly thrown off alignment specs but should be showing as odd tire wear.


In short if all is safe I blame it on being altered if nothing else found,


T

Response From SandiP

Thank you for responding Tom.

The lift was done right after I got the vehicle. It didn't start shaking until 3 years later.

I mentioned the cruise control because I frequently use the decrease speed option. This engages the brakes. The steering wheel does not shake at all while braking when I use this feature.

I replaced the tires because the tire threads were getting worn and the mechanic thought that was the problem. but replacing them didn't stop the shaking.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I was UNAWARE that any current cruise controls actually apply brakes! Either it doesn't or just never noticed one literally since the 1960s! Even so it would be the same brakes and no clue why that would matter.


OK - any lash (free-play) in steering anything to do with holding wheels in place, suspension, -- all of it has some play if you jockey a wheel watching a free steering wheel by hand you'll notice some.


All steering I know of (check for yourself*) will have intentional free-play when not set to dead straight ahead as positioned by steering wheel, mark on shaft, down to whatever u-joints and probably a damper for less road annoying feel thru steering wheel such that it will compensate for the different arcs of a turn as well as possible to avoid scrubbing.


Test if you don't believe me - shut off vehicle. Put key so steering is not locked or not I guess, turn to near an extreme left or right and feel the play. When pointed straight ahead there should be almost none.


Sometimes in the course of messing with cars/vehicles a steering wheel gets "centered" but just removing it and placing it back on not paying attention to the real center for either a rack and pinion or gear box type and will be forever not perfect. Any slight reason for a vibration will likely show up as wheel vibrations if there's play in certain conditions and may go away or be constant.


In lifting this thing it about had to have something done to accommodate a lot of things and it might have been then but waited to show itself - can't know without checking hard in person.


Not here to discourage some fun and been there but an incredible amount of engineering goes into the angles of alignment, tire sizes, center of gravity and so on it's a real brain twist.


Again - all parts need to be known good. Suspension and steering parts need prying and putting load or weight of vehicle just right on where to expose that possible wear or it wont show up.


About now I think you have effectively ruled out tires themselves. Takes real time to check all the items possible and IMO not done very often and should be with every responsible alignment job.


If checking and hoisting yourself to check things just be aware of what you may pry on to not harm anything.


Sorry for the novel - there's a lot to do with how a vehicle steers and is suspended,


T

Response From SandiP Top Rated Answer

thank you both for the responses. The ball joints and tie rods were replaced last year.

Sounds like this is beyond my comprehension.

I don't know much about cars. Just enough to know when something is wrong. I try to get it looked at or fixed right away. Sadly i have made many trips to my mechanic and found that it was just a stone that got lodged or something else.

I just assumed that because the speed decreased when I press the decel button on the cruise control, that meant the brakes were engaged. Didn't know you could stop a vehicle any other way. Again I don't know much about cars. Just trying to fix the problem before it gets worse. I love my Jeep and don't want to have it break down on me.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ya - there's a boatload to know to just scratch the surface of understanding vehicles. Hard to be concise to explain and even with years at it there's always something to surprise even the best of techs.


No matter and it takes real help to find some issues by someone with the time in a rat-race world of drive-thru repair and such.


Side note on the cruise control. When (they did and I owned one) have cruise that applied brakes! You could watch the pedal get pulled down. That was on some with controls on the steering wheel. Braking was called "retard" on them. I actually found it a bit dangerous as the longer you held it the harder it tried to stop and about thru you thru the windshield!


Other - grease the heck out of this vehicle as kev2 said there's a lot of stresses on parts and your new parts should have fittings - do them or make sure they get done as they can go fast,


T

Response From kev2

I do not think the decrease speed engages the brakes-

The brakes and rotors have been done- eliminating that, next would be suspension check loose components- tie rod ends, control arms, bearing preload, etc, the lift is hard on components- last an alignment check

1998 jeep grand cherokee unknown wobble

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From FUN MUDDER on 1998 jeep grand cherokee unknown wobble

i just put a susp lift on my 98 jeep grand cherokee and new 34 swampers. But when i get up to about 40mph it shakes and wobbles to the point where you can't hold on to the steering wheel does anyone know what could be wrong. i have already replaced the wheel bearings ,steering shock and both sway bar links.

Response From Hammer Time

i just put a susp lift on my 98 jeep grand cherokee and new 34 swampers.

Do you really have to ask?

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

Did you have a proffessional 4x4 shop do the work or did you DIY it? Where the proper wedges installed to correct the caster? Are all linkages in near new condition , ie tie rod , ball joints . Was this a body lift or spring lift or a combo ? Did you install a heavy duty steering stablizer ?In many cases you need to have the tires "trued" or shaved in a machine to round them out. I once had a 80 f150 with 18 in lift ,18/44's and it drove and rode like a factory truck so it can be done BUT >>> . You cannot cut corners when you do these things , it must be done right or not at all . It's more than jamming on the biggest tires that will fit. I had over 2 grand in my suspension.

Scariest allignment EVER!

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From zmame on Scariest allignment EVER!

Well today was a interesting day I work at a ford dealership in Ontario, Canada in my town there is a place called National 4wd center.
They have no licensed techs, 1 apprentice from a tire shop, one body man and one helper with no real experience to speak of. So they sent a truck over for an allignment.

2005 dodge ram 1500 ext cab with 8" lift just installed.

So i always test drive my vechicals before an allignment to see if it pulls, steering wheel crooked and etc...

The truck handled like a lumber wagon pulled left then right steering had tons of play and it was hard to keep it on the road.

I reached 80km/h (aprox 50mph) befor it got to point I knew somthing was seriously wrong. So i coasted slowly back to the shop and checked front end and I almost threw up.

EVERY nut was loose both outer tie rod ends adjuster nuts and tie rod end nuts where on by THREE twist both upper and lowers were the same.
So i tightened everything down and re-checked need both outers 1 inner and both uppers and lower balljoints.

With a 8" lift and 35" tires if one came off or tie rod came off at 80km/h could of killed me and or someone els.

Not even going to do into the installation of the life was horrid and un-safe too.

This is going to be reported to the Ministy Of Transportation they are going to kill somone!!

Response From ailidasfang

I know when I was going through apprenticeship I wouldn't want that type of responsibility till I felt i was qualified.

Response From Hammer Time

There are some scary people working on cars out there. Personally, I think all lift kits should be banned. They weren't engineered to run at those angles.

Response From re-tired

Yes there is the bailing wire and duct tape element out there. But ban them not a modification that is safe if done properly. I worked for a number of years at a custom 4x4 shop. We did lifts and axle mods ,gears posi etc.We had a limit of 6"suspension and 3" body for street use . Strictly off road was another story. We reinforced all critical areas and where needed performance control arms ,ball joints,urethane bushings etc.We did all alignments and every truck passed factory specs.All customers where taken on test drive and mods where explained . Dont play bigfoot in traffic etc. MY personal mud racer was a 80 f150 16"lift 5 "body lift, 18x 44 ground hogs (tires) quad shocks on each corner,dual steering stabilizers.Gussets on both axles 4:11 and posi both axles.With dropped radius arms offset urethane axle mounts YES ,even this truck aligned to specs AND was street legal,altho I only drove it to mud races and shows .It drove like a normal truck and with 4 piston calipers stopped normal also. Would I let 1/2 our posters even sit in a modified truck? I say ban them , not a legal hobby.And don't EVEN get me started bout airboating....There now I feel better.

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer


Good way to be.. this shop seems to throw them in as fast as they can.. not even using the right bolts what ever will fit will do. They don't seem to like washers for what ever reason too.

I've done 8 of there trucks so far i could only get 1 in perfect spec.

had a 2010 jeep wrangler unlimited couldn't get in spec camber was -0.98 should been about 0.04, so it has a mean pull. solid axle no adjustment.
They were trying to say that the axle was bent. But there's only 3,000 miles on it never seen a dirt road yet.

I reported them on Friday, service manager wasn't happy that he might loose his alignment jobs, but i could care less.

Response From Hammer Time

It's good that you have someone to report them to in your state. Down here, you would have a hard time finding any one with any authority or that would even listen.

Response From zmame


Ontario, Canada is pretty regulated to become a tech you have to:

Complete 4 years college technical training
8000 hours on job logged hours
Licensed mechanic so sign for you stating you are ready to take exam
Take exam
then renew every 5 years

All Shops working on Mechanical aspect of cars must be registered with Ministry of transportation and must have minimum 1 tech for every 2 apprentices.

Ontario is tightest province for these laws.. Some other provinces don't even require any sort of certification to be a tech

Response From Sidom

That's pretty impressive.... I wasn't aware of the tight requirements. I know a little about MOT but not a whole lot.

I'm curious how tight of controls they have. Is there many sub standard shops that are able to slip thru and operate?

I'm also curious of the pay scale for techs and what shops labour rates are, 4 years of college is a lot. Forced to put that much time in opens the doors to a lot more fields.

I know here for a while there was a tech shortage but with the economy going south and a lot of shops and dealers closing, that put a lot of well trained and skilled tech out in the job market. For the 1st time in a long time, I don't have the same confidence I use to that I could working the next day for the same pay if I left my present job.

Here I think in the long run the younger guys are going to make out good if they can hang on. Personally I know of a few young techs and a couple of old ones that gave up on this profession for greener pastures.......Once things come back I think the shortage will be even worse and a top tech will be at a premium, more so than before...

Response From zmame


That's pretty impressive.... I wasn't aware of the tight requirements. I know a little about MOT but not a whole lot.

I'm curious how tight of controls they have. Is there many sub standard shops that are able to slip thru and operate?

I'm also curious of the pay scale for techs and what shops labour rates are, 4 years of college is a lot. Forced to put that much time in opens the doors to a lot more fields.

I know here for a while there was a tech shortage but with the economy going south and a lot of shops and dealers closing, that put a lot of well trained and skilled tech out in the job market. For the 1st time in a long time, I don't have the same confidence I use to that I could working the next day for the same pay if I left my present job.

Here I think in the long run the younger guys are going to make out good if they can hang on. Personally I know of a few young techs and a couple of old ones that gave up on this profession for greener pastures.......Once things come back I think the shortage will be even worse and a top tech will be at a premium, more so than before...

______________________________________________________________________-

Not many shops can slip through all your safety slips and etest have to be done through appoved MTO inspection station. There is the odd garage that pops up, Like National 4WD center i was talking about earlier. Usally they don't stay open long.

Pay is so-so I make $25hr straight time, no flat rate + profit sharing, upselling bonus's and keys to shop for anytime use.
Cost of living here is cheap so its not that bad.

Its alot harder to become a tech here then most places, but at the end of the day I have that sheet of paper saying i went through all proper training and so on that will earn me 2$ an hr more anywhere i go

Response From Hammer Time

Not only do we have no certification requirement for tecsh but there is no regulation or control on competency of shops. The only regulation we have are for required info on the invoices and signatures on estimates.

Response From re-tired

I know where you are coming from HT > It's not enoungh that the garages are allowed to police themselves .Some of these Quacks keep moving and change locations and stay one step ahead of what enforcement there is.The repairs coming out of some if these slums with lifts is outrageous. And I for one am tired of being blinded by cars with only one headlamp and its looking up at UFO's. No brake lights and the one's that do have operational turn signals don't use them.

Response From zmame


Yes I find that a little scary.. I know when I was going through apprenticeship I wouldn't want that type of responsibility till I felt i was qualified.

Quebec is same way. If you want to register a car in Quebec all you have to do is register it and pay for your plates and go. It very scary since most cars are complete rotten out after 10 years in our climent.

I've had cars come in that i couldn't lift because there was no solid metal so lift from.

Response From zmame

Agreed also cause alot of problems with warranty work. Lift kits are popular in this area and with lift kits your always going through wheel bearing and balljoints every 20,000km. Almost always ends in argument when we tell them Ford's not going to cover that.

Response From nickwarner

Its bad enough when we have people running around with death traps because they are too cheap to fix their car or did a bad job on it themselves. But when a business puts themselves out as an expert to get the trust of their customers and does this thats too much for me. I would agree that they need to be reported to the agency you have out there. This truck dodged a bullet not getting into a crash. Next time the luck might run out. Shops like that are why people give techs a bad name.

Response From zmame


Its bad enough when we have people running around with death traps because they are too cheap to fix their car or did a bad job on it themselves. But when a business puts themselves out as an expert to get the trust of their customers and does this thats too much for me. I would agree that they need to be reported to the agency you have out there. This truck dodged a bullet not getting into a crash. Next time the luck might run out. Shops like that are why people give techs a bad name.

Response From Sidom

Another tech had a good one today 2000something Chevy 1500. He jacked it up to check the ball joints and R low con arm was completely off the lower BJ, It was just hanging there in the air.....

The guy gave some BS story about it not being his truck & TOOK IT with his kid...after seeing it!

I really believe in certain cases, a shop should be able to keep an unsafe vehicle from going back out on the road......

1993 Grand Cherokee "popping" in steering

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From bhirschman on 1993 Grand Cherokee "popping" in steering

I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 165000 miles. I purchased it in January, 08. I had not noticed any problems while driving on the road, at any speed, any road conditions. I have experienced however, a loud popping sound on the driver side front while turning sharply into parking spaces, into my driveway, at slow speeds around sharper corners. This almost always happens when making a right turn although it has popped making a left turn but the popping is always in the front drivers wheel and takes longer to develop. It feels like something is binding up and as I approach the "popping" point a grinding sound developes the deeper into the turn I get and the feeling of it starting to bind up but not quite enough to make it "pop". The binding sensation occurs more frequently and sooner into the turn when I am going in reverse but does not "pop" in reverse often. After the binding sensation, with or without the "pop", the front drivers wheel clunks once when accelerating forward or backward. This clunking on acceleration does not always happen but if I stomp the gas it will definately happen and sometimes if stomping too hard there will be more than 1 clunk. I do not notice any pop, clunk or binding when driving at normal speeds, even if I stomp on the gas, but I assume this is because the turns are not as sharp. The gentleman I bought it from said he had replaced the CV joints and the farthest I have taken it is to confirm the boots appear new and in good repair. I don't want to remove them to inspect until I am certain of what I am looking for.

Just recently I have noticed a wobbling in the front right wheel when I hit bigger bumps(some frost heaves leave too much damage) in the road at higher speeds. I did a quick inspection yesterday and found nothing loose or out of the ordinary underneath but I am no mechanic either. I suspect the cv joint for the popping and something else for the wobble. I would like to fix this myself if possible since I am currently paying a garage to put an engine in my wifes van. The engine was not ticking so she assumed the oil level was OK.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

By your description a CV joint makes that kind of noise but could be assorted noise at first. New doesn't always mean a good one and noise from one side can translate to the other and you'd swear to it being the other first??

Wheel bearing would be the wobble and would cause lots of symptoms and a serious problem if you can feel bearing freeplay with wheel hoisted!

It's hard to say typical of what things might sound like as there could be differant noises made. CV joint frequently make noise like twiting up a soda can "crackle" with load when turning like accellerating a bit.

Wheel bearings usually start as a growl or like just that wheel has knobby treaded tire on it and may be worse when steering and do nothing straight ahead for a while.

Neither should be ignored. Other FE parts can be bad too like tie rods ends, ball joints - anything but not so much with the symptoms you described. Some things are silent till they break too!

T

Response From bhirschman

Thanks for the prompt response.

It is hard to tell if there was a growl, it has knobby tires and there is road noise but the popping is definately in the front right. I can feel and hear it when the window is down especially.

I have not seen any heating in the wheel hub but I will jack it up today and see about the freeplay.

Thanks again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think you will find a bad outer CV joint. You really can't tell al that well without removing the shaft or remove the boot for a look and that takes a funky tool to reclamp on.

I can't be sure of course but it sounds like that. The replacement "half shafts" sold here are rebuilt most of the time and I'm about sure they leave in a good joint and clean up the thing with the bad one if only one makes it apparent that it's bad. They can just go brand new and can go without the boots being torn up too.

Wheel bearing if that's really causing this is more dangerous of the two problems - I doubt you need everything at once but who knows?

Just IMO - there's is no real "life expentancy" for these things. Some last forever and some don't

Good luck with finding and fixing it,

T