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2012 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Steering Tie Rod Assembly - Front Beck Arnley

P311-592678B    101-6734  New

Qty:
54.15
Beck Arnley Steering Tie Rod Assembly  Front
  • TIE ROD ASSEMBLY
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - Hyundai Genesis Coupe Front

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1998 Hyundai Accent Problems(fuel or engine??)

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From truenovian on 1998 Hyundai Accent Problems(fuel or engine??)

Hello,
I am having some car issues:s

MAKE: Hyundai
MODEL: Accent
YEAR: 1998
ENGINE: 1.5
KILOMETERS: 142,000
A little more than a month ago I bought a 1998 Hyundai Accent,For the first couple weeks the car worked great...needs a few minor things but nothing major. The guy that I bought the car from mentioned that one of the tie rod ends were going and something about the filler neck
I drive every day up a dirt road and down a dirt road back home(about 25 mins each way)to work,i've been doing this for 5 weeks now(first 3 weeks were fine).
I am now finding that my car doesn't really want to move,it goes and then pulls back,almost sputters I guess you could say,doesn't pick up speed quick.
I have just replaced the filler neck tonight and I tried to change the fuel filter but its stuck on there,I was told by the guy who tried to change it that it looks as if it's never actually been changed before.
However,I was told that by the actions of what the car is doing that it may be engine problems, so what I need to know is it more likely to be the engine?or dirt in the gas tank with the fuel filter as an issue? or other?....any info would be great

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

truenovian; The first things that I'd recommend checking would be 1) Air filter. Driving on dirt/gravel roads will increase the need of replacing it more often than 'normal'. 2) Fuel filter. You may want to take it into a shop for this, just in case a line breaks during replacement. But, it's going to have to be done.
The description of your symptoms sounds, to me, as a fuel delivery problem.

Response From ismail

hi i have a simalar problem , but my jerks . when i keep my accelerator steady the refs goes up and down , even on the open road if i put my foot down it jerks allmost like no petrel is cumming thru
personal contact info deleted]

Response From nickwarner

This thread is 5 years old. Please leave old threads be, I'm sure he got it sorted out one way or another by now.

2003 Hyundai Santa Fe Vibration-- UPDATE

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From dmr02d on 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe Vibration-- UPDATE

Good afternoon -- in short, I need all the help I can get:

Year of vehicle: 2003
Make of vehicle: Hyundai
Model of vehicle: Santa Fe LX, All wheel drive
Engine size: 3.5L
Mileage: 95000K

Problem: Car shakes from 30 to 45 mph; vibration increases on acceleration; vibration eases upon release of gas; little to no vibration from 0 to 30; moderate but little vibration from 45+. No vibration or jerking upon braking.

In the past 2 weeks, the tires have all been re-balanced, the ball joints replaced, tie rod replaced, and new front end. This is a very sudden issue and the car never vibrated between 30 to 45 mph but before a 20 hour road trip we had.

Update: I got back from the dealership. They said the issue was 2 things -- 1) axle boot is "split" and both axles need to be replaced and 2) the engine is misfiring because of failed spark plugs. Then he quoted me over $2000 for the work.

Response From Sidom

You may want to take a look at the axles. The speeds are about right for a bad inner joint. Usuallly a bad axle will only vibrate under acceleration though, when you let off the vibration will go away or be greatly reduced, but definitely want to check it out........

Sidenote......just noticed the part in your post about the easing off the gas...........Definitely want to have the axles checked out....

Response From dmr02d

Thanks for the reply! The dealership just got back to me and told me that the spark plugs are bad and are causing a misfire... they also told me the axle boots are leaking and the axles need to be replaced ASAP. They quoted me $2000+ for the two repairs.

My mechanic I trust said for a full tune-up he'd charge $550. I'm thinking of having him do the axles and I will replace the plugs and wires myself. Sound crazy?

Response From Sidom

Well that could definitely do it to. I'm assuming if it was missing that bad the check engine light was on and you were getting some P030x codes. If it was real bad you may have got a P0171 & P0174, lean bank 1 & lean bank 2 as well.

No, not crazy at all. If this is something that is in your comfort zone then you can save yourself a few bucks.......

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a question for dmr:

What is being done for a $550 tune up? It's just me but the words should probably be eliminated as there isn't much to adjust or so called "tune" like a piano but more "periodic maintenance" - replacement of filters, plugs, inspect and replace other items as needed, as listed in owner's manual on a schedule of miles and or time. To me "tune-up" doesn't mean any oil changes - engine or trans etc.

Just wondering what you are getting for that much $$,

T

Response From dmr02d

Guys -- first of all, thank you for all of your help. Immensely helpful.

Tom -- the $550 tune-up is to replace the spark plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter. It seems like an awful lot and as is, I currently don't have the money to fix the car.

What's weird is that the check engine light NEVER came on and never HAS come on.... so it's odd to me that there would be misfires. I do agree, however, that the spark plugs are probably worn, since those have never been replaced on a 90K car (platinum plugs or not).

The "tune-up" requires taking off the intake manifold to get to the rear plugs... terrible design by Hyundai. Makes me wonder if I should do it or not...

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

There are lots of things not so easy to get at making what should be simple very labor intensive so that explains the cost. Even so, sounds pricey but sacrificing quality parts and work is no bargain either. Retired - don't have a labor guide that would have said the expected time to do that stuff. I say it's not a waste if you plan on keeping it at the miles.

State by state here rules are different. Have a brother who lived in RI with one of these - just 2 WD and in that state they mandated to keep their then 100k drivetrain warranty that at 90K it must be done and at a dealer only! Not so here (Massachusetts) you can go anywhere you wish but Hyundai wants their parts used. He was quoted $1,300 to buy 10k more warranty. Don't think he did it as it was all just done 30k earlier and just bought a new vehicle. Asked me then found out I couldn't do that service for him!

Labor rates vary wildly too by location. One dealer near me just upped to $110/hr.! The dealer gets 60% of that if you didn't know!

However for a legal NEW place to work cost a King's Ransom so it has to be passed along. Thanks for letting me know what it entailed as I didn't know!

T

2002 Hyundai Santro Groans While Cruising

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From nura on 2002 Hyundai Santro Groans While Cruising

Year of vehicle 2002
Make of vehicle Hyundai
Model of vehicle Santro LS manual transmission (aka Atos in other countries)
Engine size 1.1L
Kilometers 113,000

Hi Everyone!
I am from India & this is my first post here.
My car is making a barely audible groaning noise from the front at low (0 - 25 kmph) speeds. I hear it a little more during deceleration (foot off the gas pedal) than acceleration. Funnily, when the car is slowing down, the noise is a little low-pitched when it starts & then becomes more high-pitched, then it dies down for a second or two & then recurs in the same fashion. I get the weird feeling that, although the car is slowing down, something inside is speeding up for a bit & then slowing down & the cycle is repeating itself a few times before the groans finally die down completely as the car gets to near zero speeds.
Engaging & disengaging the clutch has no effect on the noise. The noise seems to disappear at higher speeds. I am also unable to reproduce the noise by pressing/ releasing the accelerator pedal when the car is standing still with the engine switched on.
I have taken it to the Hyundai workshop a few times. They changed the aircon compressor but that didn't help at all. Maybe there was another noise too, which has gone but this groan is certainly still there. Another time they cleaned the throttle body & the car is accelerating more smoothly but the noise is the same.
The noise isn't loud at all & I have been living with it for many months but of late it has really been bugging me. Will sincerely appreciate your help in identifying the source of this groan.
Many thanks in advance.

Response From nura Top Rated Answer

A few more things that I just remembered.
The floor of the car starts vibrating whenever I engage 1st gear & release the clutch pedal to start moving from standstill. Workshop says weak clutch. But the clutch was overhauled by them just 8 months ago. They had also replaced the lower arm ball joints & tie-rods as well as the joint kit in the differential side front axle at the same time. From what I remember, the car was driving fine for a few months after these repairs.
Is the other (non-repaired) front axle now failing & causing the groaning noise & vibrations?
Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The clutch job is a bit invasive to the car. Mounts, exahaust parts could be too close to body parts or plain touching under loads or shifts in weight. Clutch itself parts or the job may have been the problem??

There probably is more than just one thing going on. Stinks but there's only so much I/we can guess at or suggest the likely trouble spots for these things without being right there,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ooops - you replied while I was typing. Some new bearing don't work out so well nor other new parts. These may be "pressed in" wheel bearings that alone can cause trauma on things or hard on the new bearing. They can fail with different symptoms but commonly a growl that get better or worse while turning such that weight is shifting from one side to the other. Driveshafts and the joints generally are load sensitive meaning better or worse while engine is applying forces for power or slowing and also worse when wheel are turned - that being the most common but not always so again these things can be tough to pin down.

New tires should rule out tires themselves - not always with much of anything!

BTW - not here all the time. Others always welcome to suggest away things that missed my notice or interpretation of symptoms and when they occur.

Again: This may take a mechanic that has the time AND know how to find. Not all shops (can't know even locally to me) which ones allow how much time for what never mind situations around the world?

Some real tricky stuff like this here some shops and car owners would allow a tech/mechanic to take cars for a day to use for their own commutes or needs to witness and some will not allow that.

Locally the independent shops have more chances of finding tough problems with plain noises and vibrations with more time allowed but still shop by shop rules.

Keep trying as it's warning you of something not right,

Tom

Response From nura

Thank you once again, Tom, for your excellent reply. I am going to take the car back to the Hyundai workshop, as well as to an independent technician in a few days. Will certainly post their findings here again & request for more advice.
Thanks a ton for all your help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are welcome nura. Good luck with the finding and the fix of this. Please do let us know what is found. I suggest you describe this to whatever mechanic at whatever shop the history of work already done and when you notice this.

Try hard to speak to the person that will take this on not just a shop's service person who directs work to a mechanic. Sometimes here you would never meet and know who was assigned the job at a larger shop and with noises especially you really should speak directly to the person.

Again, not always here but I am quite a bit. Others are for assorted suggestions for problems. Know that most regular people here will have less specific information for vehicles sold to places other than N. America (Canada and the US) as specifications are different for where the vehicle was to be sold when new,

Tom

Response From nura

Great advice again, thanks, Tom.
The rules are the same here, too, but developing a good rapport with the service adviser & floor in-charge does help immensely. Most times if I am willing to wait a couple of days, I can ask for a particular mechanic too.
The plot gets thicker, though. Now there's a groan even at idle but it wasn't there in the morning & started hearing it only tonight. Alternator bearing? Like you mentioned earlier, there are probably several issues happening together.
The funny thing is that for 15-20 minutes every morning the car really runs like a dream without any groans & moans whatsoever. Aren't cars lovable creatures?
Will certainly keep you posted & thanks a ton for taking out the time to reply.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One more for now and wont be around for some time soon. A bearing going bad on an alternator (a belt driven item) should be easy to determine. You can replace just bearings if they are good otherwise. Simply taking the belt off and spin items for feel for those type things. You DO NOT or should not have to tell a mechanic how to check out stuff like that.

See what they come up with. I'll catch up later and will be off line as said,

Tom

Response From nura

Thank you for your wonderful reply, Tom.
The tires were changed just 2 months ago & aren't showing any unusual tread-wear. Probably too early anyway. Forgot to mention that the front right wheel-bearing was replaced about 5 weeks ago. Maybe I should get the front left bearing replaced too. There is no clicking noise while turning left or right but I guess that doesn't rule out a drive shaft problem, does it? The groaning noise often appears after I apply the brakes but that's probably because the vehicle then comes within the speed-range for the noise to appear. The groaning noise is there even if I am only cruising with feet off all pedals.
Somehow I have begun to suspect the drive shaft(s). Any tests you would recommend to confirm?
Thank you once again for taking out the time to reply.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

By nature noises are difficult to describe and be sure of too much without witnessing it but not all is lost.

As I read this the noise is directly related to the speed of the vehicle as a whole not so much engine so need to concentrate on things that are moving with the car.

That list includes wheel bearings, brakes, tires and wheel trim parts, drive shafts and associated parts/bearings.

Some other can be mounts for engine and trans not held securely in place.

It's actually too bad that A/C compressor was blamed IMO as that should have been easier to know if the source of a noise.

Some things to help target will be if noise changes with steering, going around corners, speeds you noted already, braking. Note if one makes the noise better or worse.

Shops and the mechanics may have difficulty if they can't reproduce the noise so if possible for your exact situation you may have to find a place or mechanic that can witness it going with you or driving it at the times and way you notice it.

Look at tires for clues. Even wear. Rotating them can make unseen noises if tire related move with where they go and change the noise. Those are clues to narrow down the search for the exact source. A guessing game of tossing items gets costly and unproductive,

T