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Gates
1995 Eagle Talon Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates

P311-4A0CAE6    W0133-1954186  New

Qty:
$35.82
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • OE Type
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1995 - Eagle Talon Naturally Aspirated
NTC - TAMA
1996 Eagle Summit Engine Coolant Thermostat 4 Cyl 2.4L NTC - TAMA - (82°C/180°F)

P311-3030443    W0133-1632995  New

Qty:
$35.31
NTC - TAMA Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 180°F (OE temp.) - Includes Seal
  • (82°C/180°F)
  • 82°C/180°F (OE temp.)
Brand: NTC - TAMA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Eagle Summit L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Gates
1995 Eagle Talon Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - (91°C/195°F)

P311-4A0CAE6    W0133-1954186  New

Qty:
$35.82
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • SuperStat
  • (91°C/195°F)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1995 - Eagle Talon Naturally Aspirated
Stant
1997 Eagle Vision Engine Coolant Thermostat 6 Cyl 3.3L Stant - OE Type Thermostat

P311-4454CA1    14209  New

4892307AA , MO4667293 , 4573 560AE , 12T57E , M04572560 , 722-185 , MO4572560 , 718-195 , 53010 552AC , 706-195 , 33849 , 04573560AB , 4666140AA , 7B0121113 , 208 , 340-195 , 7B0 121 113 A , 11537596787 , 68210 220AA , 1430785 , 11531485847 , 11 53 1 501 173 , 5278144AA , 4495721 , 806-195 , 4663565 , P5278 144AA , 4209 , 776-195 , 4573560 , 53010552AA , M04573560 , 32749

Qty:
$8.05
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 195 Degrees OE Temperature
  • OE Type Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Eagle Vision V 6 Cyl 3.3L 201 3301
Stant
1993 Eagle 2000 GTX Engine Coolant Thermostat 4 Cyl 2.0L Stant - OE Type Thermostat

P311-4A3D537    14077  New

90916-03107 , 32497 , 1430793 , 4077 , 33867 , 281-170 , 17 , 12T35C

Qty:
$12.01
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 170 Degrees Alternate Temperature
  • OE Type Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Eagle 2000 GTX L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1995
Stant
1993 Eagle 2000 GTX Engine Coolant Thermostat 4 Cyl 2.0L Stant - OE Type Thermostat

P311-1109713    14078  New

9091603140 , 731-180 , 1430722 , 4078 , 33868 , 29980 , 117 , 163250T030 , MD315301 , 9091603129 , MD178746 , MD158570 , 7281-180 , 489-180 , 94856782 , 9091603133 , 16325-0H030 , RT-1122 , 90916A3002 , 296-180 , 9091603125 , 90916-03144 , 88969605 , F6DZ 8575 A , 90916-C3001 , 389-180 , 281-180 , 339-180 , 90916-03075 , 88974571 , 1430714 , 90916-03136 , 90916-03145 , 9091613084 , 90916A3001 , 1430793 , MD175746 , 90916A3003 , 32498 , 88972744 , 9091603084

Qty:
$12.01
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 180 Degrees This part is also available in the Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit 111KT, which contains 10242 (Radiator Cap), 25286 (Engine Coolant Thermostat Seal) and 74138 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) OE Temperature
  • OE Type Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Eagle 2000 GTX L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1995
Stant
1992 Eagle Premier Engine Coolant Thermostat 6 Cyl 3.0L Stant - OE Type Thermostat

P311-58DE184    13649  New

644-365 , 1F22-15-172A , A 0022037675 , ET-36-195 , E-4254-H , 4069.88 , 1102000415 , 4069.92 , U33-9294 , 248-195 , 644-386 , 943-192 , RT-1128 , 7700703137 , A 0022038175 , ET-38-195 , 078121113C , 2734800 , 7248-192 , 13649 , 304-192 , EBC 3521 , 143-0545 , W57-146 , F7TZ 8575 A , 143-0636 , RT-1159 , 4118.85D , 83318 , 280 , 659P , 025121113E , 4078.92 , U33-9255 , ET-32-195 , 273278 , ET-30-195 , 672891 , 1F2215171 , 83319 , T0703137 , 1F73-15-172 , 273480 , 1F62-15-172 , RT-312 , 21-192 , 3649 , 1649 , VB35-V6823 , 0032039975 , 2023-190 , 4034 387 , 4232.92 , 28-18887 , 3529 , W57-126 , 1F2215172 , A 0032039975 , 7273-192 , A 1102000515 , 48-1313 , 28-12187 , VB35-V6865 , RT-1156 , 3019 , 7700697157 , 025121113F , 26-1159 , W280 , 1430704 , A 1102000415 , 33079 , 0022038175 , 273364 , 56-00317 , U33-9465 , 2734804 , 2732782 , 4097.91 , 4078.92D , TX3129D , 125121113F , 0022037675 , VB35-V6554 , 1430890 , 12301559 , 1102000515 , 273364-0 , YU3Z-8575-AA , 307-192 , 28-12192 , W223H , 28-12782 , 56-00267 , 4078.87D , 31159

Qty:
$9.05
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 190 Degrees Thermostat located at engine side of top radiator hose (outlet system).; OE Temperature
  • OE Type Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Eagle Premier V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2972
Stant
1993 Eagle Summit Engine Coolant Thermostat 4 Cyl 1.8L Stant - OE Type Thermostat

P311-1109713    14078  New

9091603140 , 731-180 , 1430722 , 4078 , 33868 , 29980 , 117 , 163250T030 , MD315301 , 9091603129 , MD178746 , MD158570 , 7281-180 , 489-180 , 94856782 , 9091603133 , 16325-0H030 , RT-1122 , 90916A3002 , 296-180 , 9091603125 , 90916-03144 , 88969605 , F6DZ 8575 A , 90916-C3001 , 389-180 , 281-180 , 339-180 , 90916-03075 , 88974571 , 1430714 , 90916-03136 , 90916-03145 , 9091613084 , 90916A3001 , 1430793 , MD175746 , 90916A3003 , 32498 , 88972744 , 9091603084

Qty:
$12.01
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 180 Degrees This part is also available in the Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit 111KT, which contains 10242 (Radiator Cap), 25286 (Engine Coolant Thermostat Seal) and 74138 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) W/Calif. Emission System; OE Temperature
  • OE Type Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Eagle Summit L 4 Cyl 1.8L 112 1834
Stant
1993 Eagle Summit Engine Coolant Thermostat 4 Cyl 1.8L Stant - OE Type Thermostat

P311-4A3D537    14077  New

90916-03107 , 32497 , 1430793 , 4077 , 33867 , 281-170 , 17 , 12T35C

Qty:
$12.01
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 170 Degrees W/O Calif. Emission System; OE Temperature
  • OE Type Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Eagle Summit L 4 Cyl 1.8L 112 1834
Gates
1995 Eagle Talon Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - (91°C/195°F)

P311-4A0CAE6    W0133-1954186  New

Qty:
$35.82
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • OE Type
  • 195° F (OE Temp)
  • (91°C/195°F)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1995 - Eagle Talon Naturally Aspirated

Latest Eagle Repair and Thermostat Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

OVERHEATING

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From nissan3 on OVERHEATING

2003 NISSAN SENTRA-
OVERHEATING CONSTANTLY- THERMOSTAT REPLACED, HOSES, NEW RADIATOR-FLUSHED-SPENT OVER $500 AND THE CAR STILL OVERHEATS AND HAS NO HEAT------- WITS END HELP.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Blown head gasket would do it. This POS cars can't tolerate overheating or they blow like a pin on a balloon,

T

Response From nissan3

Head gasket was checked a month ago, when the problem started... then work done.. ran fine for a few weeks, then started again.

Response From Hammer Time

Head gaskets aren't always easy to confirm.

Response From Discretesignals

1.8L or 2.5L?

If they did the head gasket, did they determine why the gasket went? Usually head gaskets don't blow unless something makes them go especially when they are the MLS type as you have.

How is the coolant level in the radiator (not reservoir) with the engine cold? Do the cooling fans work?

No heater could mean you either have air in the system or no flow. Air can come from a leak in the coolant system or combustion gasses getting into the coolant system. No flow could be a clogged core or broken water pump impeller.

Response From Hammer Time

He said they "checked" the gasket, not replaced it. I don';t have any faith at all in their testing.

Response From nissan3

Spoke to quite a few ppl today and they seem to think its the head gasket.. Not what I wanted to hear..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Deal with real mechanics not whatever some people may think. You'll lose this whole engine if you don't act prudently if it's not hopeless already to save a buck,

T

Response From nissan3

Okay TOM=== got it. I really don't need your sarcasm anymore.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You can't soar with the Eagles when you are advised in person (not here) by turkeys!

T

Response From nissan3

You seem to be the TURKEY- everyone else here has been helpful-get a life.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I was pivotal in starting this site - all for free/gratis. Don't own it nor involved but #1 here trying my butt off to help folks for free on line and you would see ads that pay for this.

If you don't like this site please leave. Regulars here be them moderators or not are noticed. All mods can screw you into admission and ban you! I choose not.

Say your feelings as you just did and I'll survive with the bull trying to assist you in whatever and it's your turn to admit your own flaws,

Tom Greenleaf
(edit for some spell correct only)

Response From nissan3

AS a woman, I truly appreciate sites-forums such as this. I am not here to criticize, but just get some sound advice. Not to be rude, but none of your comments were pivotal in determining what the problem is with my car. THANK YOU CARJUNKY.COM

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Women? What made you think I am guy? Perhaps I'm not? Avatar shows my cat on purpose not to brag about surreal credentials.

The other techs with more current data and not retire-ired assess I am haven't made a comment on this so far. So be it..............

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Really doesn't matter IMO whether new or not if still overheating it (head or head gasket) could have gone bad on your way home. Keep driving these type engines and overheating just give up and get a real car,

T

Response From nissan3

Head gasket did not go, however it was tested and checked out fine. I have to keep filling the radiator, level is fine when cold. Fans work, although seems they should come on more often. Thanks very much for the info..

Response From nissan3

1.8 btw.

Response From Discretesignals

I have to keep filling the radiator, level is fine when cold.

You need to have the system pressure tested to find out where your leak is at. You shouldn't have to keep filling the radiator.

Response From nissan3

radiator is brand new, so leak could be elsewhere??

Response From Discretesignals

Sure can. There is a tool that can pressurize the coolant system without the engine running, so you can find leaks. Pressure test when cold.

antifreeze leak

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From rayrayx11 on antifreeze leak

i have a 1995 Eagle Talon. my car was overheaving and leaking antifreeze.
i changed the thermostat and now it doesnt over heat but it is still leaking antifreeze.
i dont know from where. i tightened the the top radiator hose and i have a new gasket for the thirmist stat.
i dont know what to do now. HELP!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You simply have to look to see where it's leaking. Is it really leaking or just some left over from that "overheaving" ?? Did any spill while filling it back up?

If still difficult try with engine fully cool/cold drying off any dampness of anti-freeze, or CAREFULLY rinse areas with clean water, let dry and look for source again. Leaks can fool you. Most will be the highest up and furthest forward as the source if it's all over things. If slow - a dental type mirror can see under items like water pump and tougher areas. Anywhere coolant is could leak and even the recovery tank can have a leak.

You are there - I'm here so you have to do the looking

T

Response From Double J

just to add to Tom's post....autozone rents a cooling system pressure tester...
rent one ..just make sure it has the proper adapter for the radiator or surge tank...wherever the pressure cap is on that model....pump it up to system pressure and look for leaks....

post back results.....

JIM

Response From dave284

They sure are a time saver

1996 Eagle Vision blinkers not working

Showing 2 out of 34 Posts | Show 32 Hidden Posts
Question From RoboDisko on 1996 Eagle Vision blinkers not working

Ok so my 96 Eagle Vision 3.5L ESi has some blinkers that wont work. It's kind of weird, the car wouldn't start, so my dad blamed the battery wire because it was really greasy, and replaced it. It didn't start after being replaced, but then a few minutes later it did. And when it did, the blinkers weren't working.

I've looked for the problem a bit. The parking lamps, which use the same bulbs, work fine. I think the relay is ok, And I haven't found any obvious wiring issues under the hook near the replaced positive wire.

Where do you guys suggest looking for the blinker issue?

Response From Discretesignals

Hazards work? Do any bulbs light up when you activate the turn signals?

Response From RoboDisko

Forgot to say that the hazard lights do not work. Nothing happens when you move the blinker lever thingy. No lights on the dash, no lights exterior lights.

Response From Discretesignals

Have you checked for power at the fuses that protect the turn signals and hazard lamps circuits?

check your PM

Response From RoboDisko

Yes the fuses are all fine. The diagram you sent me should help.

Response From Discretesignals

You also need to check for power to those fuses. A visual inspection of them won't tell you if you have power to the fuses or not.

edit: when you check power at those fuses make sure your circuit is powered up...this means have the turn signals/hazards on.

Response From RoboDisko

There is a voltage on the fuse, however it isn't quite battery voltage. I think it was around 11.5V, and the battery was at around 12.5 When I turned the blinker or the hazard lights on, the voltage increased to like 11.6V. I've pullout out the combination flasher, but I don't really know how to check it. It acts like a relay. I put a normal relay in instead and it still didn't do anything. What should I blame next?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Bit confused from top post. What came first, blinkers not working or car not starting or please explain that. Car didn't start for a while with new battery then did! There's a problem still there or with body grounds - something doesn't add up.

When it didn't start did it crank the engine?

Not sure but suspect an original problem might have been poor body grounds - a guess so far and hope nothing more blew out messing with the battery and cables and not convinced they are right yet,

T

Response From RoboDisko

Yes, It is pretty confusing. I'll tell you the quick version of the story of the car again to try to explain.
One day car wouldn't start. Key turned, some clicks, but nothing from the starter. All other electronics appeared to function normally. My dad saw the battery cables were dirty and thought they needed replaced. He replaced them, and that either fixed it, or it magically started working a little bit after that, I can't remember. Anyways after he replaced the positive and negative battery wires, the blinkers stopped working

A while latter (like a month). Vehicle wouldn't start. Same as before, key turned, clicks, but no attempt from the starter. We tried to start it every so often (like a few times a day) and one time it started just fine.

Continued running for like a month, then wouldn't start again. This time the starter turned just fine, just no spark. You guys helped me blame the crank sensor, which was replaced and it started fine.

So the battery hasn't been replaced recently, blinkers stopped working after the battery cables were replaced. Currently everything seems to work fine except the blinkers.

Response From Discretesignals

There is a voltage on the fuse, however it isn't quite battery voltage.


Which fuse did you check?


You should jumper 1 to 4 at the combo flasher socket. Then turn the ignition on. You should be able to see if the lights power up when you position the turn signal in either direction. That would answer a whole lot of questions.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok, I will do that soon, but which ones are 1 and 4? That diagram you sent me is difficult to understand. What number would they be on a relay?

Response From Discretesignals

Look at the wire colors on the combo connector

1 =Black
4 =Pink

There are two black wires.

One is ground and the other should have battery voltage on it with the ignition switch in the on position.

The black wire that has power is the one you want to jump to the pink wire.

The combo flasher isn't a relay and you can't wire it up to the connector as such.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok, I figured out which black one was ground with a continuity test, and I checked the voltage on the other one. It didn't have any significant voltage when the ignition was in the run position. (the engine wasn't running, but it shouldn't matter, right?) I bridged the one that was supposed to have battery voltage to the pink one anyways, with an amp meter, and the blinkers didn't do anything. Also, the current going through the wire was .05 amps for the directional turn signals, and .085 for the hazard lamps. From this I assume that I should try connecting the one that is supposed to be at battery voltage to battery voltage?

Response From Discretesignals

If you don't have battery voltage at the black wire that comes from fuse 3 in the junction block, you need to work on that side of the circuit and figure out where it is being lost.


Black/ white should have 12 volts sitting on it all the time.
You could also jump black/white, if it has power, to pink just to see if the switch and load side of the circuit is working.

Don't forget when you jump these circuits you have to activate the turn signal switch. If the switch is in the left position, left front and left rear turn signals should be on steady. The same for the right turn side of the switch.


If you jump pink directly to battery, make sure you have a fuse in line. You don't want to find a short by smoking out a bunch of wiring...

Response From RoboDisko

Smoking wire...Brings back memories of when I was putting a radio in my 100% electric go-cart with 3 car batteries in series(36V). Hooked up an aligator click to the 12V input on the radio, and ground to one of the batteries's ground. Then put that aligator clip on the positive end of the same battery. These are small alligator clip wires that get warm with 5A. It practically vaporized. I thought the stereo was toast, but apparently the other end of the clip came in contact with the frame, which although supposed to be neutral, apparently wasn't.

Back to our topic:

According to further diagnosis, apparently I suck at diagnosis.

I did a continuity test from fuse 3 to the black wire. It was good. So I double checked the voltage on the fuse. It was at battery. I double checked the voltage on the black wire. Nothing. So I was like what the crap?! I checked all of that stuff a 2nd time, same results. Then I looked at the fuse I was holding and pretty much slapped myself. Apparently it blew sometime when I wasn't paying attention. Did the test again with a good fuse, and the blinkers stayed solid as expected.

I then proceeded to test the voltage on the black and white wire. It doesn't have any significant voltage. Should I try connecting it to 12v with my *fused* multimeter with the combo thingy in place?

Response From RoboDisko

I keep saying I'm going to do 1 thing, then I do another. Anyways I did a continuity test from one side of the hazard light fuse in the power distribution center to the black and white wire. It was good. But there was no significant voltage on the other side. I think this is the problem. What is the easiest way to rectify this wrong?

Response From Discretesignals

Do you have battery voltage sitting at fuse 1 20A?

Response From RoboDisko

No, no I don't. In fact, it is grounded. Is there an obvious wire that, if wrong, could cause this?

Response From Discretesignals

If you have the combo flasher connected, you'll have continuity to ground on the circuit after the fuse that goes to the combo relay.

If you don't have power to that fuse, you should check the fusible link up at the battery positive terminal. Diagram states the link should be white.


If you have continuity to ground on the circuit before the fuse which you shouldn't, the link is probably blown and you have a short to ground between the fusible link and the fuse box.

Response From RoboDisko

The circuit before the fuse is ground.

How easy is the power distribution center to open? if its easy, I'll repair it properly. If its going to be a pain, I just get a wire from positive to the fuse, and then to the combo flasher, tied together with lots of electrical tape and maybe a bit of hot glue. I'm famous for that kind of jimmy-riggin.

Response From Discretesignals

The circuit before the fuse has to be power directly from the battery positive terminal. There is a fusible link in that circuit.

Did you check the link? Check the link before ripping the whole power distribution box apart.

Why would you jerry rig that? If you are going to do something, why not take your time and do it correctly? You wouldn't think that a small wire could burn a whole car to the ground, but it will and has.

The link has to be in that circuit or else the car would be a fire hazard if the circuit were to short to ground. Find the problem, then decided how to fix it without the jerry rigging of course.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok I think I know the exact problem, and exactly how to fix it. It is ever so simple. If I'm correct, when my dad replaced the battery cables, he hooked a particular wire up on the wrong terminal. That wire the the feed for the combo flasher. Way too easy...I think. I'll go see if I'm right.

Response From RoboDisko Top Rated Answer

Yep, problem solved. You guys are amazing. Even when its something super simple. I think I'll disallow my dad to work on his own car, so this doesn't happen again. Thank You.

Another simple question that is to small for it's own thread: I have noticed that the egr valve and the atx shutdown relay both get very warm, even hot, if the ignition is lefvt on for a while, when the engine isn't running. Is this normal, or should I be concerned? As far as how hot, I don't have a thermostat but the egr valve is quite warm, but not too hot to touch. The contacts on the relay, however, are hot enough that they could probably burn you if you were stupid enough to keep touching them.

Response From Discretesignals

Relays do get warm when they are energized.

You sure your not looking at something else? The EGR valve is vacuum operated and shouldn't be hot with the key on, unless the engine has been running.

Response From RoboDisko

Pretty sure. It a black cylindrical thing with a tube coming out one end.

Response From Discretesignals

That would mean the solenoid is active. Is the solenoid being energized while the ignition is on and engine is off?

Response From RoboDisko

Yes, it happens when the ignition is on, but the engine isn't.

Response From Discretesignals

The solenoid is going to have power with the ignition on, but not sure if the PCM should be grounding it with the engine off ignition on. If the solenoid was staying open all the time with the engine running, the engine probably wouldn't idle very well or at all.


edit:

never mind that is normal.

The electronic EGR transducer contains an electrically operated solenoid and a back-pressure transducer (Fig. 2). The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) operates the solenoid. The PCM determines when to energize the solenoid. Exhaust system back-pressure controls the transducer.

When the PCM energizes the solenoid, vacuum does not reach the transducer. Vacuum flows to the transducer when the PCM de-energizes the solenoid.

Response From RoboDisko

OK so everything is normal?

Response From Discretesignals

It being warm, probably normal. The PCM leaves it turned on until it wants EGR flow, so the solenoid is going to get warm. As for everything else in your driveway, I have no clue..LOL

Response From RoboDisko

Ok. That's interesting that energized is closed. I think that is all of the combustion engine based problems that I can think of. If I have any more, I know where to go. You guys are awesome, thank you!

Response From Discretesignals

Your welcome. Glad to see you got things figured out. Thanks for the follow up.

Closed as OP seems satisfied.

Response From Discretesignals

Silver thing is the EGR valve. The cylindrical black device is the EGR transducer.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok well the black part. Is that normal?

89 S10 coolant system

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From redplate on 89 S10 coolant system

Hi i was wondering if anyone could help me out here.
I own an 1989 S-10, 2wd pick-up with a fuel injected 4.3 v6 and few days ago i was driving it when i had noticed that my temp gauge started to rise above the standard 210 mark. I noticed i had been leaking fluid so i put a bottle of premix in the raditor and proceeded to get home as quick as possible trying to stay away from that dreaded red line on the temp gauge which i did. I noticed that the leak was coming from the water pump's back gasket so i went down to the local store bought a water pump installed and marveld at my accomplishment... I had a feeling i might not be out of the woods yet so i decided to let the new water pump get asscoiated with my truck before i decided to take it for a spin... SO if it did overheat i wouldnt be stranded in the cold minnesota weather. Well after cleaning my garage i went back out to check on the truck that had been running for about 30 minutes (i made a big mess). Anyway the temp gauge read at about 230-240. So i kept trying to put more fluid into it... Finally it couldnt hold anymore... and it still overheated. So i was thinking ok, i have no excess pressure or oil and coolant mixs so it seems a head gasket is out of the question. It seems like the only problem would be the thermostat. If this thing keeps overheating and there is no leakage and the head gasket is ok. Well it must be the thermostat. I then removed the thermostat, tested it and discoved it was jammed up. I then replaced the thermostat and decided hey ill take it for a drive. That was a mistake. It over heated again. I asked around and was told it could be a air bubble and i should burp the coolant system. I just did this an hour or so ago and still overheating and no leakage. So now im thinking well the only thing it could be now is some blockage. The radiator appeared fine but im thinking i was a little too generous with the RTV and clogged the small port on the water pump. Im gonna get on that after this but i was wondering if anyone here had some useful ideas. Im stumped. Im hoping that removing the water pump again will reveal the problem but if not i will be completely stumped.

On another note the belts seem to be operating without a hitch and apparently this water pump is unmistakable as a chevy water pump i brought it in and everyone in the store was like "CHEVY WATER PUMP!". I believe its the same as the 350's water pump.

Response From tut2261

Was the old t-stat intact? If it fell apart it would cause a blockage. No punt intended. Did you install the t-stat correctly?
Was the coolant discolored? Before you replaced the waterpump.
Is it smoking from the tail pipe? If so smell it. If it is burning coolant it will smell sweet.
The 4.3 liter is notoirous for lower intake leaks. Resulting in coolant in the oil and or an external leak.
If you think there is a blockage. Drian the system. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, put a garden hose into the top hose and see what comes out the lower and how fast. This will tell you if the radiator is plugged. You can also do this to the engine. To try on the engine use the heater hoses, remove them from the heater core. It would problibly be a good thing to do anyway do to it excessivly over heating.
You could still have an air pocket. Too remove all air, leave to radiator cap off with the engine cold, fill to the top, start the engine, alow to run, it will over flow as it heats up when the level goes down re-fill it and install the radiator cap.(If this does not happen you have a flow problem) Now hold the RPMS to about 1500 and watch the temp gauge if it goes up and drops back down all the air is in the radiator. shut the engine off and allow to cool then topp off the fluid level.

Response From redplate Top Rated Answer

thanks for the help...

i have let the system run with the cap off and i did check the coolant as well... I allready had a head gasket go about a year ago. Thats why i keep and eagle eye on the temp levels and oil pressure. I dont want to ever fix that again. I did take the new thermo out again and it was open as i took it out at a warm temp since i was running it to burp it threw heater hose that comes out of the intake and goes to the firewall. I do plan on running a garden hose through the radiator but i need to rig up something to sink do to the fact that the fridgid winter does not alow an outdoor faucet. And tail pipe... LOL. What tail pipe? a 89 s10 in minnesota is a rust bucket weather you like it or not... Its my winter and work vechile. But i did not notice a sweet smell from the exhaust... I took the water pump off again and it looked like the rtv was a little crazy i also took off the back plate on the pump to make sure it was intact internally... Im gonna apply a more conservitive amount of rtv and try it again...

Once again thanks guys... ill update you guys on the progress...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't think thermostat should have been open when you re-checked it. They usually close up fast.

The RTV: Try with gaskets just using enough to stick the gasket(s) and a smear of grease on the side going to the engine which makes it lots easier if you back there again for any reason, T

Response From redplate

well i just finished reintstalling the pump... (I used toms method of using rtv) while disassembling it i noticed the dreaded brown sludge... im also getting bubbles coming up through the open rad cap... Im pretty sure whatever the problem was it has gotten to a new level and im pretty sure the head gasket is shot... Im pretty sure the reason for this is my father red lining it cause he automaticly assumed it was fixed... I didnt have sludge in the coolant before and i also had no bubbles coming up through the raditor as well.

well thanks again for your help guys... Ill keep updating you on the information... It sounds like its time to sell my toy cuttlass and buy a real car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If the sludge in cooling system is thick it won't cool well. Head gasket is suspected and flush out cooling system at the same time.

Bubbles in radiator for a while you refill the system but them stop, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What temps are you dealing with? The radiator and the thermostat are still in question even though it's a new thermostat.

Just at idle let it warm up and feel the cold upper rad hose. When thermostat opens it will get hot as expected. Fans need to work properly. You can run the heat full blast and feel it. If it goes cold on you may be low on coolant or boiling coolant won't heat the vehicle either.

The 4.3 is a pretty tough engine but don't let this persist, T