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LKQ
1992 Suzuki Samurai Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ

P311-24B18A9    SZ2801101  New

Qty:
$48.41
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Suzuki Samurai Right
LKQ
2006 Suzuki Forenza Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ - Reconditioned

P311-4529A15    SZ2801103R  Remanufactured

Qty:
$83.93
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • RECONDITIONED OE PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; SEDAN
  • Reconditioned
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2006 - Suzuki Forenza Sedan Right
LKQ
2011 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ - NSF Certified

P311-1F3D4DE    NI2801170N  New

Qty:
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014 PRODUCTION DATE
  • NSF Certified
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Suzuki Equator Right
LKQ
2010 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ - Value Line

P311-1E54BEC    NI2801170V  New

Qty:
$49.14
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014 PRODUCTION DATE
  • Value Line
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Suzuki Equator Right
LKQ
2011 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ - Reconditioned

P311-5A401D9    NI2801170R  Remanufactured

Qty:
$83.93
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • RECONDITIONED OE PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014
  • Reconditioned
  • PRODUCTION DATE
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Suzuki Equator Right
LKQ
2010 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ - CAPA Certified

P311-5ADBD98    NI2801170C  New

Qty:
$59.72
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014 PRODUCTION DATE
  • CAPA Certified
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Suzuki Equator Right
LKQ
2010 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Left LKQ - NSF Certified

P311-248453A    NI2800170N  New

Qty:
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Left
  • DRIVER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014 PRODUCTION DATE
  • NSF Certified
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Suzuki Equator Left
LKQ
2010 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Left LKQ - Value Line

P311-18153D5    NI2800170V  New

Qty:
$49.14
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Left
  • DRIVER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014 PRODUCTION DATE
  • Value Line
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Suzuki Equator Left
LKQ
2011 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Left LKQ - Reconditioned

P311-4766986    NI2800170R  Remanufactured

Qty:
$88.80
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Left
  • RECONDITIONED OE DRIVER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014
  • Reconditioned
  • PRODUCTION DATE
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Suzuki Equator Left
LKQ
2011 Suzuki Equator Tail Light Assembly - Left LKQ - CAPA Certified

P311-30BD0A6    NI2800170C  New

Qty:
$59.73
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Left
  • DRIVER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; TO 2/2014 PRODUCTION DATE
  • CAPA Certified
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Suzuki Equator Left
LKQ
2009 Suzuki XL-7 Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ - Reconditioned

P311-2DCEDFD    SZ2801105R  Remanufactured

Qty:
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • Includes Wiring Harness
  • RECONDITIONED OE PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; INCLUDES
  • Reconditioned
  • WIRING HARNESS
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Suzuki XL-7 Right
LKQ
2009 Suzuki XL-7 Tail Light Assembly - Left LKQ - Reconditioned

P311-0FE0756    SZ2800105R  Remanufactured

Qty:
$84.21
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Left
  • Includes Wiring Harness
  • RECONDITIONED OE DRIVER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; INCLUDES WIRING
  • Reconditioned
  • HARNESS
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Suzuki XL-7 Left
TYC Products
1987 Suzuki Samurai Tail Light Assembly - Left TYC Products

P311-1B28E03    11-1340-00  New

35604-80022 , SZ2800101

Qty:
$53.36
TYC Products Tail Light Assembly  Left
  • TYC Tail Light Assembly
  • ; California Proposition 65: WARNING - This product can expose you to chemicals including chromium (hexavalent compounds), which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov Components Included: Complete Assembly Other Side: 11-1339-00
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning - This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Chromium (hexavalent Compounds), Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Components Included: Complete Assembly
    • Other Side: 11-1339-00
Brand: TYC Products
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Suzuki Samurai Left
TYC Products
2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara Tail Light Assembly - Left TYC Products

P311-52137A3    11-6144-00  New

35670-65D00 , SZ2818103

Qty:
$60.22
TYC Products Tail Light Assembly  Left
  • TYC Tail Light Assembly
  • ; California Proposition 65: WARNING - This product can expose you to chemicals including chromium (hexavalent compounds), which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov Components Included: Complete Assembly Other Side: 11-6143-00
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning - This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Chromium (hexavalent Compounds), Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Components Included: Complete Assembly
    • Other Side: 11-6143-00
Brand: TYC Products
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Left
TYC Products
1986 Suzuki Samurai Tail Light Assembly - Right TYC Products

P311-307DBC0    11-1339-00  New

35603-80022 , SZ2801101

Qty:
$53.77
TYC Products Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • TYC Tail Light Assembly
  • ; California Proposition 65: WARNING - This product can expose you to chemicals including chromium (hexavalent compounds), which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov Components Included: Complete Assembly Other Side: 11-1340-00
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning - This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Chromium (hexavalent Compounds), Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Components Included: Complete Assembly
    • Other Side: 11-1340-00
Brand: TYC Products
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Suzuki Samurai Right

Latest Suzuki Repair and Tail Light Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Dash Lights Problem

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From RyanV on Dash Lights Problem

Hello,
I got such great help with my stereo in the stereo forum, so I thought I would post about my dash lights here. I have a 1997 Geo Metro 4 cyl. hatchback. The kid who owned it before me put in a stereo, and he did not know what he was doing, and apparently he caused some electrical problems. When I bought it, the tail lights and the dash (instrument panel) lights were not working. The turn signal indicators worked (and still do) and check engine light and so on, but not the lights that light up the spedometer. I checked the fuses right after I bought it, and there were a few blown out. So I changed those out, and the dash lights came on, as well as the tail lights, and that helped me get home, but then they would go out if I hit a bump in the road, and by the time I got home they were out for good. Changing the fuses after that has not helped, and the fuses seem to be fine.

Anyway, I rewired the stereo, and now the tail lights work, but the dash lights still do not work. The radio works great now. I checked the fuses, and they seem to be fine. I bought a circuit checker thingy with a light that lights up in the handle (in order to check the wires in the radio, which were fine), and I checked the wire connector going to the dimmer adjuster dial switch thingy to adjust the brightness of the dash lights, and I got no light coming on. Perhaps I did it wrong. I clamped one side of the circuit checker to a hunk of metal and used the needle-tip awl thingy to touch inside the connector in all three ports, but no light came on. So anyway, does anyone know what could be the problem?

Thanks,
Ryan

Response From Sidom

Yea there is a couple of pretty sharp guys over in that section, Jk306 is one of them. Problem being Tom pretty much keeps em locked up over there with his darn "attack cat" so we'll have to try to muddle thru here on our own.....

We really need to look at a wiring diagram, I'll try to see if I can't find one.

Most dimmers are basically an adjustable resistor of some sort that lower the power source to dim the lights depending on how many wires goes into yours will determine if it has it's own power source but one wire should have power on it. The feed from the rest of the lights.

On thing you can check is to see if the dimmer works on any other lights inside other than the dash. Usually it will control the lights in the switches and other stuff. If it's controlling other lights then you are going to have to focus on the leg that feeds the instrument cluster.

From what you've posted it really sounds like you have a short somewhere, it was working, you hit a bump and it went from an intermittent to a hard short. Some of those can be a PITA to trace down but depending on what you got, we'll see what we can do. There are a few guys here that are pretty good at tracing that down....

In case someone has a diagram you may want to also post the engine size.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh come on Sidom! Kitty is harmless little thing..........



Just don't come home with the wrong "Kitty" food and she's fine,

T

Response From Sidom


Response From RyanV Top Rated Answer

Okay, so the engine is a 1.3 liter Suzuki, 4 cyl., even though the car is a Geo Metro. I think the Geo Metro was based off of a Suzuki car or something like that. Anyway, when I turn the dimmer adjuster knob, the check engine light for instance does not change. There aren't a lot of other lights. I have to get a bulb for the dome light to see if it even works.

The wire connector that goes to the dimmer adjuster knob has three wires going to it.

Cheers,
Ryan

Response From Sidom

Ok.....We'll start backwards on this. Your switch has 3 wires, 2 are power & one ground. 1st thing to do is verify power on both connecters and make sure the ground is good. If that is the case the switch is bad. By the diagram you can see there is multiple legs going into the switch. If all lights work except the dash. The you will need to trace down the dash leg. If none of the wires have power. Then you have to go back to the gang connection (I can post the other diagram) or where the power comes out of the distribution center. Before you get to deep there is a light relay I would check before tearing things up.....

Grab your voltmeter or test light & have fun....

?t=1282191022

Response From RyanV

Okay. So I was trying to test the relays, but didn't really know how to test them. I tested the wires that they plug into in the engine compartment, and those tested good, they lit up the test bulb.

Also, I have had a turn signal problem at the same time, so I was trying to figure that out as well, and now I think they may be related. I had tried to test the turn signal socket with the bulb tester, and it didn't work before, but when I unscrewed the plastic case (which is broken) and let the wiring hang out, then it did light up the tester. So what I think I discovered is that because the case is broken it was holding the turn signal bulb socket at an angle, and it made a short, or grounded out on some metal. So I disconnected the turn signal socket, and I am going to get a new one with the plastic case at a junkyard.

However, I was hoping that after I disconnected the turn signal bulb socket that the dash lights would work (thinking they might be connected), but still nothing. But, I did check the wires that go to the dimmer adjuster again, and now they work and they light up the test bulb (presumably they work because I got rid of the short in the turn signal bulb socket?).

So, could the short have burnt out the dimmer switch or a relay somewhere? And, how would I test these? It seems that the wiring is good as far as I can tell.

Cheers

Response From Sidom

Ground the red/green wire (not the red/yellow) and see if the dash lights come on. If the do you either have a bad dimmer switch or ground. To check the ground hook your test light on the pos batt term & probe the ground wire (black), the test light should light up if the ground is good......

When you say "they", I'm assuming both the red/green & red/yellow wires have power.....

Response From RyanV

okay, so I think I tested them the way you explained. I clamped one end of the test light to some metal, and I used the pointer to touch the wire connector that goes into the dimmer switch. I put it in both the power wires, and the bulb lit up with both, but the dash lights did not come on (I did this at night to make sure I could see them if they came on - i also made sure the car was running and the headlights were turned on). I haven't checked the ground yet, as I am not sure which ground wire it would be.

Please let me know if I did the test wrong, and if not, let me know what you think the problem could be. I appreciate your help.
Cheers

Response From Sidom

Well you did pretty good but missed a couple of points.....

Real quick & I try to keep it short so it doesn't get confusing. There are 2 types of basic circuits. Series & parallel. Series is hooked together all the way down the line. It's like the old Xmas lights, one goes out & they all go out. Parallel shares a common power & ground but has it's own leg so if one leg goes out the rest of the circuit isn't affect & keeps working..

About 98% of all automotive circuits are parallel. This one here is a perfect example of a parallel circuit. Each leg of this circuit has one load on it. Think of a load as a pig that eats 100% of the power for that circuit. When the circuit is working properly, the load uses all the voltage and there is no voltage on the ground side. When you have an open circuit the load turns into a switch and passes the voltage on thru, using none of. In an open circuit you will be able to measure voltage right down to the open spot, WHEREEVER it is....

Ok knowing this, test the circuit again. Look at the wiring diagram. You will see 5 or 6 loads (I'm to lazy to scroll up) going into the dimmer. They all come together at on point & go into the dimmer..

The 1st test is, do all the legs work, some of them or none of them? Read the schematic and see all the different lights on that circuit. With the dimmer hooked back up, turn on the lights (we already know the dash lights don't work). Do any of lights on that circuit work & can be controlled with the dimmer? If they do, then that sux cuz it means the circuit, the dimmer & ground are good and you have a bad leg for the dash lights. That circuit will have to be isolated & tested.....A total PITA.

If none work, then that's good, you have already verified power on both wires but still need to check the ground. Take that end you put on bare metal & attach it to the battery positive. Then touch a bunch of ground stuff, engine block, fender, anything metal. Each time the light should light up. Now touch the ground wire for the dimmer switch. It should also light up. If it doesn't then you have a bad ground. If it does then it's really looks like you have a bad dimmer switch. But just to be sure there is one more test......

This is the part some guys have trouble with, running a wire with 12v on it, directly to ground, you can't use a test light because that won't ground the circuit. You now know if there there is load up stream with an open circuit the ground wire will measure 12v and that is what you are getting, so grounding that wire will just complete the circuit.
Now this is very important you ground the correct wire. The power wires have different color tracers to identify them, I can't see the diagram right now but believe it was a red w/yellow tracer for the lights. I don't remember the power source for the dimmer...... Ground the power coming from the lights directly and all the lights should come on.... If by chance you ground the power source wire for the dimmer switch ( which has no upstream load, the dimmer is the load) then your new name is going to be Sparky or Smokey because you will fry something......

If you aren't totally sure, then don't ground the wire (this is where a power probe comes in handy).

So in a nutshell....

1st hook the switch back up and see if ANY of the lights work.

2nd test the ground with a test light off the pos bat term

3rd ground the light circuit in front of the dimmer to see if the lights come on (ONLY IF 100% POSITIVE OF CORRECT WIRE)

UPDATE......

Red/green is the wire coming from the lights
Red/yellow is the power source for the dimmer-----DO NOT GROUND THIS WIRE........

Response From RyanV

Thanks a lot for your help. I did the two easier tests and discovered that everything was fine, so I am assuming it is probably the dimmer adjuster switch. I looked into buying one, but it was too expensive, so I am just going to get a small battery powered light to put in the dash for now.

Thanks again,
Ryan

Response From Sidom

If you ground the red/green wire going into the dimmer switch, do the dash lights come on?

If so and is was mine, I would be tempted to run that wire to ground with a toggle switch in line. It would be full bright with no dimmer control but you could always switch if off if need be.....

Complete Rewiring

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From vaporfox99 on Complete Rewiring

Hey, I'm new to this forum and automotive wiring but I am contemplating rewiring my car. It's a 1986 Pontiac Fiero GT. Now I want and am planning on installing a Chevy 305 V8 Small Block, but I need to know if I can just rip out all the wiring already in the car and just redo it. If so how hard will this be to do, like weekend project or do it once the new engine is ordered and in transit? If I do this I'd like to see the car setup like a 60's style muscle car i.e. no computers and little "extra" wiring. If I remove the computer (if that's even possible) can I then install a carbureted engine? I know I'll have to wire, the head lights, tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, stereo (and speakers), dash lights, and the electric windows unless anyone knows how to convert them to manuals, engine (starter, alternator and what not) and my abs. However, will this be possible for me the diy'er to do or should I save up and have someone do it (if so who) or should I ultimately leave it alone?

Response From Sidom

This is a mid engine car.

Ultimately.....you should leave it alone.

Response From re-tired

As Sidom has stated .This is a mid eng car . And I will add its is VERY prone to over heating and fires . However I have done a few swaps even putting a Northstar in one . Ths is not a easy task . I would recommend doing a little reasearch on it and see if you can handle it .Here is a link on the subject one of many sites on it.




V-8 Fiero

Response From vaporfox99

Well actually no one has answered my question. Yes it is a mid engine car designed by one of the best designers of MR cars ever! Lotus is amazing and thus so is the car. The only reason i'm asking is cuz I would like to know if I can run the wire like an older car 60's that didn't have all the gizmos and useless junk modern cars have. "Oh it's an airbag it'll save your life...fuck your airbag and fuck your life if you're ment to die in that wreck by god you will and there's nothing an airbag can do about it." So how could I rewire this car like an old 60's car?

Response From Sidom

I thought I did answer the question...

I didn't want to offend you but as HT eluded to, the questions you are asking really shows this is a project that is probably a bit too much for you. If you had/have the proper knowledge & skill to do this you wouldn't be asking how, maybe getting opinions on different application possibilities but that would be about it...

The mid engines didn't really last to long. I think the MR2 was probably the better of the two... I mean they put the Fiero on a Chevette frt end for crying out loud.....

Response From re-tired

If you had bothered to read the link that i took the trouble to look up and post for you , would have seen the answer to your guestion . Hint: its in the FAQ section. YOUR WELCOME

Response From Hammer Time

If you have to ask a question like that, then you certainly aren't qualified to rewire it. It will take extensive knowledge of how the circuits work to wire that from scratch. I don't think you have any idea just what it takes to do a conversion like that. Amazing is not a word I would ever use to describe that car. Ir was probably one of the worst designed and most unreliable cars ever made.

PS, watch the language if you want to continue here

Response From Sidom

I have done a few swaps even putting a Northstar in one .

RT I've always suspected you were a bit crazy....Now I have hard evidence......

You Honor, if it may please the court I submit exhibit "A"




LMAO..............

Very nice install RT....... Is this a picture of the one you did????

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

yes i did have a wild side in my younger days. In retro some where downright scary. I built the one with the 350 for my bro in law. Ill see if he kept any ppics . He sold it within a year, it had a open diff and when you drove in the rain one wheel would always break loose. You had to really feather the throttle to get it to hook up. Besides that project the was the go cart with 250cc yamaha eng, the rail dune buggy with a Toranado 455 front wheel drive set up in the rear with paddle tires. the cj 5 with stroker,5 in lift 3 in body lift 38.5 tires and posi front/rear. ford pickup 18in lift 40 in tires ,full posi. a mud dragster with tube frame vw front 750cc suzuki water cooled 2 stroke and dozens of R/C things and on and on and on..............

Response From Hammer Time

Oh God, don't give these guys any more ideas. You make it sound easy..............LOL

Response From re-tired

Don't be so modest HT . I'm sure your resume is full of "projects " lol

Response From Hammer Time

No, I was never too much into mods. I was always more into OEM repair. I'm not much of a welder or fabricator. I don't even like it when they bring that stuff to me for repair.

Response From Hammer Time

I would also say that you probably need to be the next thing to an electrical engineer to rewire this thing to a V8.