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LKQ
2000 Oldsmobile Alero Tail Light Assembly - Right Outer LKQ - Value Line

P311-2A668C6    GM2801148V  New

Qty:
$54.70
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right Outer
  • PASSENGER SIDE OUTER TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
  • Value Line
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Oldsmobile Alero Right Outer
LKQ
2002 Oldsmobile Alero Tail Light Assembly - Left Outer LKQ - Value Line

P311-0F786C0    GM2800148V  New

Qty:
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Left Outer
  • DRIVER SIDE OUTER TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
  • Value Line
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Oldsmobile Alero Left Outer
LKQ
2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette Tail Light Assembly - Right LKQ - NSF Certified

P311-093CCF5    GM2801134N  New

Qty:
LKQ Tail Light Assembly  Right
  • Includes connector plate
  • PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; INCLUDES CONNECTOR PLATE
  • NSF Certified
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Oldsmobile Silhouette Right
TYC Products
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada Tail Light Assembly - Right Outer TYC Products

P311-3619A14    11-3203-01  New

19179679 , 15721390 , GM2801126 , GM2801127

Qty:
$37.59
TYC Products Tail Light Assembly  Right Outer
  • TYC Tail Light Assembly
  • ; California Proposition 65: WARNING - This product can expose you to chemicals including chromium (hexavalent compounds), which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov Components Included: Lens and Housing Other Side: 11-3204-01 Remarks: w/o Bulb & Wire
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning - This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Chromium (hexavalent Compounds), Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Components Included: Lens And Housing
    • Other Side: 11-3204-01
    • Remarks: W/o Bulb & Wire
Brand: TYC Products
Position: Right Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada Right Outer
TYC Products
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada Tail Light Assembly - Left Outer TYC Products

P311-30F6564    11-3204-01  New

GM2800127 , 19179358 , 15721391 , GM2800126

Qty:
$37.59
TYC Products Tail Light Assembly  Left Outer
  • TYC Tail Light Assembly
  • ; California Proposition 65: WARNING - This product can expose you to chemicals including chromium (hexavalent compounds), which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov Components Included: Lens and Housing Other Side: 11-3203-01
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning - This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Chromium (hexavalent Compounds), Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Components Included: Lens And Housing
    • Other Side: 11-3203-01
Brand: TYC Products
Position: Left Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada Left Outer

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Tail Light Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Dashboard Display Lights Not Working on a 2000 Olds Silhouette

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From pmcg521 on Dashboard Display Lights Not Working on a 2000 Olds Silhouette

Recently, the dash lights on my 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette minivan stopped working. The speedometer, RPM, fuel, and temperature lights do not turn on anymore. The only dash lights that work are the indicator lights (including turn signals, red seat belt, brights, etc).
I examined both fuse boxes (under the hood and interior) and none are blown out. I also tried resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery. Also, there is a dimmer that dims the entire dashboard and console. The dimmer functions properly, except the dash lights still don't go on. No luck at all.
It's not the bulbs, either, because they ALL went out at the same time. I'm pretty sure that it has something to do with the circuitry, but I have no idea how to fix it. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know why people insist on disconnecting batteries thinking it's going to fix something. All it does is delete any important diagnostic info and make the car run bad for a while because it has to relearn all the idle and mixture adaptives.

First make sure you still have tail lights. If not, go look at fuses again. You may have a problem with the dash dimmer switch but double check the fuses again. There are 2 that can effect dash lights.

Response From pmcg521 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the reply. I checked all the fuses again and all are in good condition. Also, my tail lights are working properly.

Update: I ordered a body control module off ebay because according to some people, a new BCM fixed the problem. I'm going to replace it and see what good it does, if any. Also, recently the speedo lights worked for a brief few seconds immediately after starting the car. Then they flashed, and went off. I will use the car's manual to help me tear down the dashboard and check for any faulty wires or connections as well. I'll post another update sometime after I attempt to fix it.

Response From Discretesignals

Don't know why your replacing the BCM. It has nothing to do with the illumination lamps in the instrument cluster.

Response From pmcg521

I appreciate all the quick and helpful replies. I did not yet replace the BCM. However, I opened up the instrument cluster and it seems that all the bulbs, wires and connections are in pristine condition, which is basically what I expected.
Like I said, the entire speedo lights go out, so it's not a faulty lamp, but rather a faulty connection... this is where the touchy ignition comes in.
While working on the car today, the BCM began to beep... beep... beep because I had the battery running. I noticed a pause in the beeps whenever I messed with anything on the dash panel. Eventually, I figured out that the ignition is touchy -- for example, when I turn the key a certain way, the beeps will stop, and then pick up again once I stop touching it.
So I guess the problem all along was the touchy ignition. It must have caused the speedo lights to turn on -- and then off again.

My questions:
1) Is it beneficial to replace the BCM at this point? If so, how do you program it?
2) What the hell can I do to fix the touchy ignition?

Thanks.

Response From Discretesignals

You sure the beeping wasn't for the key in the ignition with the door open? There is a little switch inside the lock cylinder that is used to tell the BCM there is a key in the ignition. Sometimes wiggling the key can make that switch open and close.

Like I stated the BCM has nothing to do with the instrument illumination. The BCM controls the courtesy and dome lights though.

If you have illumination on your window switches, AC control panel illumination bulbs, ash tray lamp, and steering wheel controls, then you have some sort of wiring or connection problem either in the cluster, a problem in circuit from the splice to the cluster, or a poor cluster lamp ground.

Have you taken any voltage measurements at the back of the cluster?

Response From pmcg521

I don't have the tools to do voltage measurements. At this point, I think I'm more comfortable just taking it into Midas because I have little knowledge of circuitry and I need these lights to work ASAP. It's not easy driving past a cop at night without knowing your exact speed.

This car has a history of problems anyway. For example, the right turn signal shorts out frequently, unlock switch does not work from within the car (BCM issue?), right window does not roll up, left window barely rolls up, AC frequently needs refrigerant refill in order to work.

I've been able to live with these problems, but unfortunately the speedo lights are a bigger problem that I would rather have a mechanic fix for me. I just don't feel comfortable messing with wires and potentially causing bigger problems.

I appreciate everyone's help. If anyone has any suggestions before I take it in, feel free to let me know! Thanks a lot.

Response From Hammer Time

At this point, I think I'm more comfortable just taking it into Midas because I have little knowledge of circuitry

Neither do they

Response From Tom Greenleaf

^^^^ What he said - ditto. I'd sooner look for an independent shop and just tell them what you notice. Without even minimal test equipment this is probably not the place to be learning but still think a connection will be found.


Said was everything LOOKED GREAT - means nothing. It reacted when you were "wiggling" around with wires under dash and that's a strong clue of where the trouble is.


Forget this BCM thing. Let this job go out but if still motivated you don't need to invest the world for some things you can do.


Test light is under $10 bucks. It works but Harbor Freight has Digital Volt Ohm Meters for low bucks too. Know what the tools can and can't do. You can check fuses without taking them out and so on.


A real mess is in the course of even checking things knowing how NOT to break stuff. The dash takes the cake for that.


Look for a good independent shop. Dealers can be fine too but almost have to be pricey for what they take on.


You may find this is a no parts needed fix - can't say yet,


T

Response From Hammer Time

Who's going to program it?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I heard on the web you could just hold a cell phone near it on Amazon for free @ 1-888-555-WXYZ, - right


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't expect the car's owner's manual to show you how to fix anything - they are to show you what features do what and how to operate them, capacities, fuse info but not repairs.


If anything just works for a while and quits my first suspect thing is a plug to it or a common ground. Parts tossing because somebody someplace did this or that on the web doesn't mean diddle IMO. Seen plenty up to cleaning your catalytic converter with dish soap - now it's nice and clean - right!


If you have lots of test equipment and want to do this all without buying software with lots of techno information it leaves forums like this or send it out. New part tossing might confuse or cause another issue or in this case need to program a BCM (can't know all cars) if changed with equipment you wont have,


T