Shop Infiniti G37 Tail Lights

That means that your fuse is good as it powers the dash lights also.

If the front ones are working, that eliminates the headlamp switch. That only leaves the wiring going to the rear and the lights themselves. You'll have to use a test light to troubleshoot the wiring going back to find out where your losing power (or ground).

The seal seems to be intact. The lense and the molded plastic back that holds the light sockets come out as one unit. The does not seem to be any opening in the seal. This is why I can't easily find the solution.

Stop with the "running a wire" nonsense and find the short circuit. Start out by removing all the bulbs and see if it still blows.

i did that and the fuse still blows

Maybe HT will be nice enough to post a wiring diagram for the tail lights for you and if dash & ashtray lights aren't on the same fuse that diagram as well....If they are on different fuses, that will help, look at both them and see what circuits they share....

To save on fuses, what you can do is get a 12v test light, hook the clip to a 12v power source (batt + if it will reach), take out the fuse and probe the load side of the circuit (the one that doesn't have 12v with the fuse out) if the light turns on that would indicate a short in the circuit, You can start disconnecting bulbs, connecters, isolating circuits until the light goes out. Once it goes out, you've taken the short out of the circuit...

i will greatly appreciate a wiring diagram ! PLEASE

So, you're saying that you know how to read one?

What fuse # are you blowing?

its a 10amp PARK LPS fuse dont know the number

Ok...I'm flying blind right now so why don't you tell us what you've done so far and where you are at....
Are you using a test light to verify the short? what have you disconnected so far?

Hahaha, sure it doesn't..........

Also pull out the cigarette lighter and make sure there isn't a penny or something in there

Sounds like a partially open power feed wire or connection; that when the bulb is installed and a load put on the circuit (lights turned on), something is going open. (Loosing connection)
Maybe try using a test light for the testing of the circuit; why I say this is that a high impendence voltmeter will not apply a load on a circuit; it measures potential voltage on a circuit but does not take anything away from the circuit. A test light uses current flow to light its bulb; this current flow will apply load.
Have the test light lead clipped to a known good ground. With the probe start at the socket’s tail light to bulbs contact. If the light doesn’t light move to the back of the socket and test the (I believe) green wire, leading into the socket. Keep moving away from the socket until you can get the test light’s bulb to light. Once there you’ve found the problem; it could be a corroded wire, where the insulation has become damaged allowing the copper wire to rot.
If by chance the test light does light at the sockets contact with the bulb removed; try reinstalling the 1157 bulb and then test the green wire. The test light bulb by itself may not be enough load on the circuit to cause whatever to go open.
I don’t think the problem will be to far away from the socket; because you said all other tail lights are working; this same green wire feeds all of the rear tail, marker and license plate lights.
You may end up probing into the actual wire with the test light probe; if so, make sure you reinsulated the puncture holes with a bit of silicone.

Dan.

A+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++. Mr. Dan. What can I say except - "PERFECT". I followed your Direction word for word and it went exactly as you said. There is a connector just inside the body (behind removable jack panel) about 8 to 12 inches away. The Green wire had a bad connection on the opposing side. I securely repaired the connection and siliconed my test spots . I went when my test light nearly blinded me where the wire could take the load. I rely heavily on my multi-meters for testing. I had to make up a test light from and old car socket and bits of wire. I'm going to buy a decent test light now (Thanks to you). You light up my tail light, da da da da. Thank you so much - No tickets for the 274000 mile corolla today! Thanks Again, Carl.

Thanks for posting the fix Carl; that will help other people more then my recommendations.

Dan.

Hi There!

Im new in this site!

What can I say except - "PERFECT". I followed your Direction word for word and it went exactly as you said. There is a connector just inside the body (behind removable jack panel) about 8 to 12 inches away. The Green wire had a bad connection on the opposing side. I securely repaired the connection and siliconed my test spots Cool. I went Wink when my test light nearly blinded me where the wire could take the load. I rely heavily on my multi-meters for testing. I had to make up a test light from and old car socket and bits of wire. I'm going to buy a decent test light now (Thanks to you). You light up my tail light, da da da da. Thank you so much - No tickets for the 274000 mile corolla today!

Thanks!


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