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LKQ
2013 Infiniti EX37 Tail Light Assembly - Right Outer LKQ - OE Part

P311-29D1826    IN2805103OE  New

Qty:
286.23
LKQ Tail Light Assembly Right Outer
  • PASSENGER SIDE OUTER TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
  • OE Part
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2013 - Infiniti EX37 Right Outer
LKQ
2013 Infiniti EX37 Tail Light Assembly - Left Outer LKQ - OE Part

P311-5CAAC22    IN2804103OE  New

Qty:
286.23
LKQ Tail Light Assembly Left Outer
  • DRIVER SIDE OUTER TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
  • OE Part
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2013 - Infiniti EX37 Left Outer

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

no tail lights on ford f250

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From kat55751 on no tail lights on ford f250

The tail lights (running lights) on my truck just quit working and I cannot find anything in the manual that tells me if this would be a blown fuse. None of the fuses say tail lights. Everything else works, it is just the tail lights.
Any ideas?
Kathi

Response From Hammer Time

Are your dash lights still working?

Response From kat55751

yes the dash lights are working. brakes lights, flashers and turn signals are all fine as well.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

What year is the F250. Some of the 'older' Fords had a fuse mounted right on the headlamp switch.

Response From kat55751 Top Rated Answer

It is a 2001. It worked fine when I unhooked the horse trailer and now nada.

Response From Hammer Time

That means that your fuse is good as it powers the dash lights also.

If the front ones are working, that eliminates the headlamp switch. That only leaves the wiring going to the rear and the lights themselves. You'll have to use a test light to troubleshoot the wiring going back to find out where your losing power (or ground).

95 Pontiac Tansam Convertible tail lights

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 95 Pontiac Tansam Convertible tail lights

Water in getting into the tail light assembly. I have taken the tail light assembly out( the car is stored for the winter) but I can't seem to find any reason for the water. This is quite a bit of water and it is causing the plastic to discolor. I am hoping somebody out there has a clue. Thanx

Response From DrElectrics

There is usually a rubber seal around the tail light to stop water getting in. Also the lens if not already moulded to the tail light should be screwed on tightly. Check the rubber seal.

Response From Guest

The seal seems to be intact. The lense and the molded plastic back that holds the light sockets come out as one unit. The does not seem to be any opening in the seal. This is why I can't easily find the solution.

Response From DrElectrics Top Rated Answer

Hmmm, I have never heard of such a thing...Trunk leak is my next guess, but it would have to be a big hole to fill up tail light...Much humidity where you live?

Tail Light Does not Go On

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From pbyrum on Tail Light Does not Go On

Hello,
I have a Nissan Murano 2004. The back driver side stop/tail light is one bulb that works as a stop light when you step on the brakes and when its a tail light. The light goes on when you step on the break, but not when you have the headlights on. Do you have any ideas why the light does not go on when its a tail light?
Thanks,
Paul

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The tail lights are entirely separate circuits from the brake lights. Start out by checking the bulbs.

tail light problems

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From kent1 on tail light problems

1994 ford thunderbird v8 70,000 miles
tail lights dont work i only see the bulb for the brake/turn signal light and the backup/reverse light
the fuse blows as soon as u put a new one in i ran a new hot wire and now the backup lights are on all the time but still no tail lights is there no bulb for the long light between the brake and backup light? doesnt make sense please help got to drive to and from work in the dark 6 days a week
also the dash light and ashtray light went out the same time as the tail lights if that helps any.
kent

Response From Hammer Time

Stop with the "running a wire" nonsense and find the short circuit. Start out by removing all the bulbs and see if it still blows.

Response From kent1

i did that and the fuse still blows

Response From Sidom

Maybe HT will be nice enough to post a wiring diagram for the tail lights for you and if dash & ashtray lights aren't on the same fuse that diagram as well....If they are on different fuses, that will help, look at both them and see what circuits they share....

To save on fuses, what you can do is get a 12v test light, hook the clip to a 12v power source (batt + if it will reach), take out the fuse and probe the load side of the circuit (the one that doesn't have 12v with the fuse out) if the light turns on that would indicate a short in the circuit, You can start disconnecting bulbs, connecters, isolating circuits until the light goes out. Once it goes out, you've taken the short out of the circuit...

Response From Hammer Time

Maybe HT will be nice enough to post a wiring diagram for the tail lights for you and if dash & ashtray lights aren't on the same fuse that diagram as well..

What's the point? He tried to string a wire to the tail lights.

Response From kent1

i will greatly appreciate a wiring diagram ! PLEASE

Response From Hammer Time

So, you're saying that you know how to read one?

Response From kent1 Top Rated Answer

yes i can but this does not show me anything about dash light,cig lighter, ashtray light or tail lights

Response From Sidom

What fuse # are you blowing?

Response From kent1

its a 10amp PARK LPS fuse dont know the number

Response From Sidom

Ok...I'm flying blind right now so why don't you tell us what you've done so far and where you are at....
Are you using a test light to verify the short? what have you disconnected so far?

Response From Hammer Time

Hahaha, sure it doesn't..........

Response From Sidom

Also pull out the cigarette lighter and make sure there isn't a penny or something in there

1992 Corolla right tail light not working

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From pullngo on 1992 Corolla right tail light not working

1992 Corolla-274000 miles/automatic. (Brake light-in same socket as
the non working tail light- and all other lights work good)
I have 10 volts at the socket (from bulb contact to socket edge-
ground) and 10 volts if I use a second ground (no change). Removed the
bulb contact disk from socket, touch bulb to the contact and ground
the edge of the bulb with a seperate wire and I get same result (tail
light won't work - brake light works. I'm confused - seems like I have
a complete circuit, but the tail light bulb won't light. PS - I was
using three different known to be good bulbs while doing this, type
1157. Please Help, don't want a ticket, thanks PullnGo.

I Will Also Add: The tail light bulb is an 1157, so it has
two elements - 1 for tail light and 1 for brake light. So it is one
bulb that has the tail and brake light in it. The socket that the bulb
goes into has two contact points, this socket has two power wires (one
for tail light and one for brake light) and a ground wire (which shows
a good ground) going to it as well, but no tail light - Hope I didn't make this too long winded...

Response From DanD

Sounds like a partially open power feed wire or connection; that when the bulb is installed and a load put on the circuit (lights turned on), something is going open. (Loosing connection)
Maybe try using a test light for the testing of the circuit; why I say this is that a high impendence voltmeter will not apply a load on a circuit; it measures potential voltage on a circuit but does not take anything away from the circuit. A test light uses current flow to light its bulb; this current flow will apply load.
Have the test light lead clipped to a known good ground. With the probe start at the socket’s tail light to bulbs contact. If the light doesn’t light move to the back of the socket and test the (I believe) green wire, leading into the socket. Keep moving away from the socket until you can get the test light’s bulb to light. Once there you’ve found the problem; it could be a corroded wire, where the insulation has become damaged allowing the copper wire to rot.
If by chance the test light does light at the sockets contact with the bulb removed; try reinstalling the 1157 bulb and then test the green wire. The test light bulb by itself may not be enough load on the circuit to cause whatever to go open.
I don’t think the problem will be to far away from the socket; because you said all other tail lights are working; this same green wire feeds all of the rear tail, marker and license plate lights.
You may end up probing into the actual wire with the test light probe; if so, make sure you reinsulated the puncture holes with a bit of silicone.

Dan.

Response From pullngo

A+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++. Mr. Dan. What can I say except - "PERFECT". I followed your Direction word for word and it went exactly as you said. There is a connector just inside the body (behind removable jack panel) about 8 to 12 inches away. The Green wire had a bad connection on the opposing side. I securely repaired the connection and siliconed my test spots . I went when my test light nearly blinded me where the wire could take the load. I rely heavily on my multi-meters for testing. I had to make up a test light from and old car socket and bits of wire. I'm going to buy a decent test light now (Thanks to you). You light up my tail light, da da da da. Thank you so much - No tickets for the 274000 mile corolla today! Thanks Again, Carl.

Response From DanD

Thanks for posting the fix Carl; that will help other people more then my recommendations.

Dan.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

KUDOS to Dan...........nice job

Response From remy987


Hi There!

Im new in this site!

What can I say except - "PERFECT". I followed your Direction word for word and it went exactly as you said. There is a connector just inside the body (behind removable jack panel) about 8 to 12 inches away. The Green wire had a bad connection on the opposing side. I securely repaired the connection and siliconed my test spots Cool. I went Wink when my test light nearly blinded me where the wire could take the load. I rely heavily on my multi-meters for testing. I had to make up a test light from and old car socket and bits of wire. I'm going to buy a decent test light now (Thanks to you). You light up my tail light, da da da da. Thank you so much - No tickets for the 274000 mile corolla today!

Thanks!


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