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Bosch
1997 Volvo 960 Starter Motor Bosch

P311-10B0B31    W0133-1600725  New

Qty:
$60.00 $312.75
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Remanufactured
  • Total Length = 10-1/2" - Body Length = 9"
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Volvo 960
Bosch
1993 Volvo 850 Starter Motor Bosch

P311-10B0B31    W0133-1600725  New

Qty:
$60.00 $312.75
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Remanufactured
  • Federal
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Volvo 850
Bosch
1992 Volvo 940 Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-08F63B0    SR437X  Remanufactured

50035640

Qty:
$45.00 $110.20
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part 1.4 kW
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Volvo 940 Wagon Turbocharged L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1992 Volvo 940 Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-08F63B0    SR437X  Remanufactured

50035640

Qty:
$45.00 $110.20
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Volvo 940 Sedan Turbocharged L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1987 Volvo 245 Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-08F63B0    SR437X  Remanufactured

50035640

Qty:
$45.00 $110.20
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Volvo 245 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1991 Volvo 940 Starter Motor 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-08F63B0    SR437X  Remanufactured

50035640

Qty:
$45.00 $110.20
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part Bosch, only as replacement for Bosch equipment 1.4 kW
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Volvo 940 Wagon Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
2006 Volvo XC90 Starter Motor 5 Cyl 2.5L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-05705C6    SR0483X  Remanufactured

50039180

Qty:
$50.00 $173.61
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Volvo XC90 L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521
Bosch
1995 Volvo 850 Starter Motor 5 Cyl 2.4L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-05705C6    SR0483X  Remanufactured

50039180

Qty:
$50.00 $173.61
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part 1.4 kW
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.4
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Volvo 850 L 5 Cyl 2.4L - 2435
Bosch
2005 Volvo XC90 Starter Motor 6 Cyl 2.9L Bosch - Starter (Remanufactured)

P311-3051709    SR0452X  Remanufactured

Qty:
$35.00 $165.86
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Starter
  • Actual OE part
  • Starter (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Nose Cone Material: Aluminum
    • Nose Cone Type: Closed Nose
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Power Rating: 1.7
    • Starter Finish: Aluminum
    • Starter Rotation: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Starters are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo XC90 L 6 Cyl 2.9L - 2917
Bosch
1997 Volvo 960 Starter Motor Bosch

P311-01EE86F    W0133-1600451  New

Qty:
$72.00 $299.01
Bosch Starter Motor
  • Remanufactured
  • Total Length = 9-1/2" - Body Length = 8"
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Volvo 960

Latest Volvo Repair and Starter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Removing crank pulley

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From zmasterflex on Removing crank pulley

Greetings all. 1995 volvo 850 glt. I need to remove the crank pulley in order to get the timing belt off. I tried to use an impact gun, I used some PB blaster on the rust and even used a torch to enlarge the nut in order to loosen it but still no luck. When I use a breaker bar the whole engine turns. It was suggested to me to use a vise grip or clamp on the camshafts, but this vehicle's cams are held down by the "upper valve cover" so only the sprockets stick out. Has anyone ever worked on a similiar vehicle or has advice on how to clamp down on the engine to prevent turning in order to remove the crank pulley? Any advice on this topic would be great. Thanks!!
(The air tank for the impact wrench is 150 psi, the torque on the bolt is 133lbs)

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Yes, it can be very difficult to get loose sometimes. Here is a trick that usually works.

Get a long breaker bar and 6 point socket that fits the nut tightly. Slide the breaker bar down through the frame so it is touching the ground at the handle. Position it so when it swings up, it will contact the frame and nothing else it can damage. Go in the car and bump the starter and the bar will slam against the frame and break the bolt loose.

Response From zmasterflex

Brilliant idea -- Im at of town for the weekend I'll try it and keep you posted. The engine hasnt been run in 2 years- should I lube up the cams first, or is one bump from the starter ok?
Thanks!!

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what your asking about lubing but nothing is necessary. Just make sure the bar is on securely and not going to damage anything. It will move with a lot of force.

Ignition Clickling (Volvo s40 '99 2.0T)

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From tenfour on Ignition Clickling (Volvo s40 '99 2.0T)

Hello

I have had this car for 8 months now and during these months the car has been clicking twice. Both times I have been able to jump start the engine with a booster but I want to find the cause. Obviously the battery does not have enough power to start the car when it has happened so I have measured both voltage and ampere to give some general information about the battery.

The battery is bought 2011 and rated 12V, 63Ah and 610 CCA. At the time of clicking it read 12.10V and after boosting the car the generator puts the battery at 13.82V so the generator seems to be working. I know for a fact that the issue existed before this "new" battery as I have been speaking to the previous owner.

After I boosted the battery I drove to a friend with a battery tester and replaced the battery for a 55Ah, 12V, 460CCA battery while he was going to test my old battery (will take him a week due to being busy). With this new battery I have measured the Voltages at different times - all times in which the car starts. The readings are 11.86, 12.19, 12.0, 12.2 in no particular order. All readings were done when car has not been started for several hours. The voltages here confuse me.. maybe I have not got enough connection to the poles for the multimeter to read correctly. I don't know.

Further more I have read the Amps of the car while it's completely turned off (no lights at all) and it reads 0.0023A which I think is fair. No parasitic drain.

Now I'm just very confused to what could be causing the clicking. From what I remember the car was not used for a few days in both these clicking occasions. There is also another issue with the car which may or may not be related; The car needs a bit of gas when starting UNLESS 1) it recently have been started or 2) the car has been turned off for more than 16-24 hours (approximately).

Does anyone have any idea what to try next? I appreciate any advice here.. been banging my head for too long with this.

Response From tenfour

Alright so I did some testing.

Diodes seems fine (to my knowledge), I get a reading of ~0.050V in both directions.

I also measured Voltage from the connectors and closer to the alternator. No noticeable difference in Voltages.

I guess I will be replacing the battery and cleaning the poles/connectors and probably leave the car at a mechanic do diagnose the fuel pressure because this is nothing I'm comfortable with. :-)

Cheers for the great suggestions!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Diodes are in the alternator as I think you know. Why the heck are you poking around with a tester for something that works as IMO you are risking touching the wrong things and blowing something! You are unlikely to just buy diodes and replace just those anyway if they did have some fault and can but about always means alternator wont charge fully but more likely at all.
Know exactly what you are testing and where or don't touch it even for a 1999 there's plenty that's quite costly to ruin,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Of all that readings when it was running your charging system is probably fine so forget it.
* a 2011 battery could have been made in January, 2011 or December - a whole years different, you need to know the month and it's marked on that and the new lesser battery (scratch my head) that is and should be enough buy why go less CCA? If car was rated for needing that - fine but bet too low. 550 or so is my guess.
* Clicking I take it is a fluttering solenoid to starter the only thing that needs a quick blast of full AMPS to crank an engine. Otherwise for the most part a battery just get what cranking it took out put right back and you are running on alternator - all cars.
* Look for voltage drops from a charged up known battery - new isn't known yet. Charge those before it sees a vehicle and that one could be a year old so buy right. If not clearly marked ask where you got it as ALL are marked in the casing if even encrypted. That's its age not the day you bought it. This totally matters as a new battery is not fully charged! They slowly drain more from initial fill and lose real CCA which is what you want.
* Voltage is a great indicator of what's happening where alone. From cold and charged up, wait and test battery. Should read dang close to 12.2V if no lights are on or just were like opening the door. Now watch that voltage while cranking engine if it does or if it flutters solenoid which it will if AMPS "delivered" to starter are inadequate it's supposed to. Bat volts may drop below 9V so battery in that case is likely junk now again but more to do. Always begin from fully charged battery for test - anything else is marginal info.
* Next if you get no joy is testing for voltage drops from posts of battery and again from the clamp - Volvo TMK always used "U" and bolt clamps of no great quality - most don't. Those readings should always be the same under loads like cranking right there if not decide on if cleaning or replacements of cable end(s) or whole cable is the fix. Not all end splices are good either so get real ones if we get to that.
* If still fluttering away check voltage again now down where battery positive cable goes to solenoid. Is the drop different there from right at the battery? If so, cables are not carrying the full AMPS.
IDK why but batteries are now all made of recycled lead which shouldn't matter but see more failures new than ever and prices doubled fast - nice.
Hey - you are trying but need to know more. It's January for 90% of the population of the world mean Winter which is colder on average than Summers. Battery available AMPS are so temp dependent that's why they list CCA which mean what it's power available is at 32F and goes up and down from that. Hot isn't so great on them either.
One more: They don't age well nor like getting low or being low and kill themselves. It's not like your handheld or other device for repeatedly running almost dead routinely at all.
They flake and lose something with every use and every month anyway like a bouncing ball can never bounce quite as high no matter how perfect as the first drop - they really do live and die just about like that,


T

Response From kev2

Is there any added electrical devices ie remote starter, audio, alarm?
The swapped battery was NEW?


suggestions-
replace battery with NEW.
clean both battery cables BOTH ends.
Check Alternator diodes for leaking.
Check fuel pressure and observe pressure leak down-

Response From tenfour

No added devices, however a previous owner had some extra audio which was removed at sale. The wiring is still there though so I do have some electrical wiring from the car stereo to the trunk. I have measured the car ampere when powered off though, it reads only 0.023A so if something is draining the battery it cant be doing it regularly. No idea where to go from there though.

Let me just clear out the battery text to avoid confusion;

Previous owner replaced the stock battery with a brand new when he first experienced the clicking. This battery is the one I mention first with 610CCA and bought 2011 (the actual manufacturer date is unknown at the time). This battery is now at my friends place and was load tested today with no issues. He tells me it's working fine. This is also the battery that clicked for me two times during 6 months and was working after jump start.

The other battery I mention with 460CCA is a battery that I borrowed from my friend so he could do the load test on my own battery. This battery is not new but was fully loaded before I got it. This battery has never clicked for me yet, however I have only had it for a week.

The clicking have happened to me twice like I say above. One time the degree outside was around 50F and the other time more like 14F. Both these times the car was unused for a few days. The car has also been working properly while unused for several days so I cant really reproduce the issue by not using the car.

Check fuel pressure and observe pressure leak down- Could fuel pressure be related to the clicking issue or is this just a suggestion for my slow starting issue described?

I will be trying the other suggestions from both posts as soon as I get some time. Thanks both of you.

Response From kev2


suggestions-
replace battery with NEW. 5yrs is the replacement window.
clean both battery cables BOTH ends. you swapped in test battery and no issues SO worth a try- easy and routine.
Check Alternator diodes for leaking. A often overlooked alt test- easy can do with a DVOM on AC scale instead of DC - google for a DIYer diode test.
Check fuel pressure and observe pressure leak down- YES addressing the starting issue and the comment about holding throttle to start-

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To re-stress a point on let's call them car batteries: New doesn't mean good one! High % up to maybe 20% are marginal or junk bought new.
Why? Because they are filled and sealed then transported. If tipped, bumped around or dropped they don't survive that and are junk.
They are thin plates inside that flake with time and use and known they will do that so make room for dandruff flakes at the bottom. Every cycle once filled adds some till the pile touches the bottom of plates and they short out inside themselves much less likely new, a guarantee if used turn one upside down you ruin a good older one. By about (it's a range of guess) 3-4 years they can work and live with those flakes and test well but even the wrong bumps you may hit they go all at once. This is how you can charge and test batteries as good but by age and what happened you give up as they are perishable items unless a "Gel Cell" which is available now 3X more money and necessary for certain uses. The flakes can't move is why.
So what do you do?: You buy batteries hopefully that haven't been mishandled anytime along the way till you buy it. This is where the department stores fail as I've seen unknowing stock people bounce them all around to put the older ones out first no different than rotating stock of fresh bread - look for yourself at grocery store. It's the bumping around or up to dropping them they are junk new so you charge new ones and test before it sees you car or ask a real parts store to do that. If they won't they really shouldn't be selling them! That bad.
Now ancient history is you didn't throw a battery out back when you took the top off with a hot nail and pulled out the cells, dumped out the flakes, replaced just on or more cells and filled it back up with new "acid" (electrolyte) and off you went.
No more for 50 years on that and UNFORTUNELATELY I remember doing just what I said!! Google it!


Sorry for the book but this is why they can fool you and be erratic now or failed on the shelf new. Identical way they are made just unserviceable and cross your fingers it was right all along. Nobody is going to wait today for one to be filled and charged at a place nor is it any kind of practical for stores or customers,


T

Won't Start

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From kaylabol on Won't Start

I have a 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo. I was told that the reason the car wouldn't start was because it needed a new Electronic Control Module. We put a new one in and the car does exactly the same thing. It will crank and crank and crank but it won't start. It is getting gas, but we are not getting any spark. Can anyone help me please.

Response From aarongates25

Yes check the distributor, spark plugs, and the wires....

Response From kaylabol

Hi, we have done all of that. Do you have any other suggestions?


Thanks

Response From steve01832

You have to check fuel pressure with a guage, check for spark at the plugs, check injector pulse with a noid light. Now we have to know what system(s) are not working. If all of the systems are working, more than likely we have a sensor problem, wiring problem, or a compression problem (timing belt). Start there and post back with the results so we can go further.

Steve

Response From kaylabol

Hi, I am back. We are still unable to figure out why this volvo won't start. We have checked everything that you stated. Please help if you can.

Response From PTEC

hehe you might've flooded the cylinder with fuel while cranking it all those time before new ECM.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hmmm? You have spark and fuel and no reaction at all?? Easy on your starter and let it cool or you'll just need one of those and that isn't the problem.

Flooding can be the problem. Some plugs will soak in fuel and additives to the porcelain insulator to center electrode and it will NOT dry out with just air dry and becomes the path of least resistance for the spark so no real spark is jumping the electrodes out of your sight and they are fussier under compression.

The best fix for that is take all the plugs out and leave them out for day. New spark plugs are best but you can heat up the electrodes and porcelain with a regular propane torch holding the plug by the metal only where the spark goes in. Whole plug will be hot so let them cool on a totally fireproof surface for quite a while. If that works the engine may still not run well right away but keep it running and it will clear itself up as it warms up.

That's a guess for when everything else seems right, T

PS: Use only exact specified spark plugs if you replace them.