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Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Spark Plug Wires

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Bosch
1992 Oldsmobile Toronado Spark Plug Wire Set Bosch

P311-18CD96E    W0133-1622673  New

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$20.97
Bosch Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Bosch
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1992 - Oldsmobile Toronado
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-429BBC2    W0133-1683292  New

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$53.49
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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1999 - Oldsmobile 88
Delphi
1993 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-3E86C0F    W0133-1835171  New

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$41.28
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
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1993 - Oldsmobile 88
Delphi
1992 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-3E86C0F    W0133-1835171  New

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$41.28
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Spark Plug Wire Terminal In One Row of Six
    (2nd Design)
Brand: Delphi
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1992 - Oldsmobile 88
Delphi
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-149B9E9    W0133-1952357  New

Qty:
$94.51
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
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1996 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-0FBD158    W0133-1952357  New

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$95.14
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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Brand: ACDelco
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1996 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1997 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-20F651D    W0133-1835447  New

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$45.27
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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Brand: ACDelco
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1997 - Oldsmobile 88
ACDelco
1996 Oldsmobile Achieva Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-4E30ABA    W0133-1835454  New

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$63.73
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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Brand: ACDelco
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1996 - Oldsmobile Achieva
ACDelco
1996 Oldsmobile LSS Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-27F8FFB    W0133-1902072  New

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$52.14
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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1996 - Oldsmobile LSS
Delphi
1995 Oldsmobile Aurora Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-17AC3E6    W0133-1930551  New

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$121.14
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
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1995 - Oldsmobile Aurora
Prestolite
2000 Oldsmobile Alero Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-10A1C71    W0133-1625168  New

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$35.43
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Prestolite
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2000 - Oldsmobile Alero
Prestolite
1998 Oldsmobile Bravada Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-4A861A1    W0133-1616621  New

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$46.34
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Prestolite
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1998 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-429BBC2    W0133-1683292  New

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$49.22
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: ACDelco
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1999 - Oldsmobile 88
Delphi
1991 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Spark Plug Wire Set Delphi

P311-4E99861    W0133-1835445  New

Qty:
$48.12
Delphi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
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1991 - Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser
ACDelco
1993 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-5558836    W0133-1835171  New

Qty:
$50.47
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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Brand: ACDelco
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1993 - Oldsmobile 88
ACDelco
1993 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-5558836    W0133-1835171  New

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$41.93
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: ACDelco
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1993 - Oldsmobile 88
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-5558836    W0133-1835171  New

Qty:
$50.47
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Spark Plug Wire Terminal In One Row of Six
    (2nd Design)
Brand: ACDelco
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1992 - Oldsmobile 88
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile 88 Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-5558836    W0133-1835171  New

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$41.93
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
  • with Spark Plug Wire Terminal In One Row of Six
    (2nd Design)
Brand: ACDelco
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1992 - Oldsmobile 88
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile Bravada Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-4427E94    W0133-1835446  New

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$54.16
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
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Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1992 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile Bravada Spark Plug Wire Set ACDelco

P311-4427E94    W0133-1835446  New

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$41.91
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: ACDelco
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1992 - Oldsmobile Bravada

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Spark Plug Wire Help

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From poppiesweet on Spark Plug Wire Help

I have a 1998 Oldsmobile 88 LS, 3.8L V6 with 78,000 miles. It started running ruff so decided to change spark plugs. Engine service light came on, took it to
Auto Zone to diagnose. Said spark plug wires needed changing. Got the back 3 changed, now do not know how to remove the spark plug wire channel in order to change the front 3 wires. Can somebody please tell me how to get the channel off? All advise is appreciated. I know there was a recall on this channel at one time but do not think they will honor the recall due to the age.

Response From Discretesignals

They will honor an open recall no matter what the age or mileage is.

You have to pry up the holder to separate it from the valve cover.

Response From poppiesweet

Thank you for the reply. I will heed your advise and call the dealer.

Response From Hammer Time

There is no recall on that issue nor was there likely ever one. Recalls are only made for 2 reasons... Emissions or safety and a spark plug loom wouldn't qualify for either. There may have been a TSB at one time but that is far different from a recall and merely an advisory to help the dealer

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

There actually was a recall for the front spark plug wiring channel on the GEN 2 3.8L. The valve cover would leak and the channel would fill up with oil. There was a possibility the oil could ignite from the hot exhaust manifold and burn the car to the ground. This fix was to eliminate the channel and install a couple of wire holders.

There was also another recall on the fuel pressure regulator that would leak and if the engine backfired on start up, which a lot of 3.8L do especially with low battery voltage, would cause the plastic intake to blow apart sending sharp plastic everywhere.

I don't know if the recall applies to this model, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to call your dealer and ask if there are any open recalls on your vehicle.

Response From Hammer Time

I just checked the recalls and there has only been one for that make and model and that was for a defective fuel pressure regulator.

no fire to my spark plugs

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From randyeppers1980 on no fire to my spark plugs

my vehicle is a 1983 oldsmobile delta 88. it has 136,000 miles on the odometer. engine is a 307 c.i.d. V8 with factory 4 barrel carb. i have no spark to my spark plugs. the following items are new...spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, coil on top of the cap, ignition control module, and the pick up coil inside the distributor. i have a maintenance free distributor in that it just turns the fly wheel. unless the teeth are damaged(which theyre not) it should work if everything else works. all components are new. no crank shaft sensor on my vehicle( i've been told) what else is there? also when i removed the distributor, i marked the fly wheel and distributor so i didnt reinstall it 180' retarded or advanced. so tell me please what im missing!!!

Response From Vinnysnismo

Even if you put the distributor in 180 out it would still have spark, just not in the correct order(probably wouldn't run and if it did it would run very bad). Are you getting power into the plug that goes into your distributor? Start there. If no power your problem lies before the distributor. Also VERY IMPORTANT-- if it is a HEI ignition(coil on top of cap) you have to make sure they you install the SECONDARY NEGATIVE on the coil(it is actually for the pick-up coil)if this wire is not installed it will cause the coil wires to melt through causing "voltage punch through" destroying the coil cap n rotor. If this wire is not installed the motor will still run.... but make sure it has it. When i bought my truck (GMC w/ 350 HEI) the person that had it before me did not install the wire. My truck ran fine for a long time and one day the wires that go to the coil melted together causing all 8 cyl to ignite at the same time almost blowing the motor.(it backfired so loud a cop heard it 3 miles away) Check for power going to your dist when you turn your key on.. also make sure your rotor turns when the motor is cranked over..if not...you have serious problems.

Response From kathill73 Top Rated Answer

did you find out what was wrong as im having same problem

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the rotor inside cap turning when the engine is cranking?

T

96 Delta 88 Misfires

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From DJR86 on 96 Delta 88 Misfires

I have been having misfiring problems with my 1996 Oldsmobile 88. The car sat outside and then in the garage for about a year, and then it started to be driven again in the spring after some routine work. A little over a week ago the check engine light began to come on and off, and the car ran a little rougher than normal. Earlier today I picked my younger sister up from school, and the engine began to misfire as soon as I turned it on. The check engine light began to flash as well. Our house is only a few miles a way, so we drove it back there, but the misfire condition got worse everytime I stepped on the gas pedal. The entire car shook as I drove it. When I got home I opend the hood up to check the engine out and I noticed smoke comming out between the radiator and the engine, as well as a terrible burning smell. The cars temperature was normal, so it was not overheating as I drove it. I'm not quite sure what the problem is. Has anyone had a similar situation like this? If so how much money did it cost to fix the problem?

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

The first thing I would do is start the car and block the wheels. With the engine running, use spark plug wire pliers and lift each wire from the spark plugs one at a time and then reinstall. When you lift each wire listen for the rpm to drop a little. When you find one that the rpm doesn't change, you've isolated the problem cylinder. Check for spark. Try this and let us know the results so we may go further. Also, check the routing of the plug wires, you may have one touching the engine or manifold that may be your smell and misfire.

Steve

Response From DJR86

Sorry that has taken me a while to get back on here. My car is not misfiring anymore, however I the check engine light is still on. I haven't driven the car at all, except for when I realized it was no longer misfiring. I have noticed a few other things going on now. When I drove it ran much smoother than normal, and the engine temperature only went up to a little of 150 degrees. I didn't drive it far at all, but normally it would have reached 200 degrees by the time I had gotten where I did and came back. I also noticed that the oil level dropped a little bit from where it was the day when it misfired. I'm going to get it checked with a scaner soon to see what sensor is making the check engine light come on. I also noticed something, all of the times the check engine light has come on, and when it misfired, were all with in a day after I put gas in the car. I'm not sure if this could mean my car has a fuel system malfuntion or not, but I know its an important clue to the problems that I have been having.

Response From steve01832

On the OBDII cars, if you top off the tank the excess fuel goes into the EVAP system. If the computer runs a diagnostic test at that time, the extra fuel will give a false rich condition that the computer will see, and set a code. Also, if you fill up with the car running and the computer does a fuel test, it won't build the vacuum and the computer will set a code. The gas cap may even need to be replaced. These may correct the "fill up" problem you have been having.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry for a quick read here but 150 engine temp when warmed up will cause problems. I really can only go by my own cars but they get to proper temps within a couple miles. I don't know how far you are driving?? T

Response From DJR86

The car was driven 2 to 3 miles, and normally it has warmed up by the time it has gone just 1 mile. I checked the engine after my last post, and I did notice oil on the engine in a few different areas. Like I said the oil level went down a little bit on its own, so its very possible that I have a small oil leak somewhere too.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sometimes oil on engine is caused by the PCV system not able to keep up. Blow by can be the problem.

You can check at the dipsick tube that the engine has about 1 Hg of vacuum and if it doesn't there are problems. If it has pressure instead oil will leak out at the weakest link, T

86 Olds Cutlass Ciera misfire help

Showing 3 out of 15 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From platinumfossil on 86 Olds Cutlass Ciera misfire help

1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 2.8L fuel injected engine and auto tranny. i've had this car for a little over a year now as a daily driver of about 30 miles/day and decided it needed a little TLC with the oil change that was due. changed the oil yesterday and went to napa website and found the correct spark plugs, wires and distributor cap for the make/model/engine i have. picked the items up and installed them this afternoon and the car ran normally. before the work the car ran pretty good for me with the occasional stall (once every few days at most) whether hot or cold engine; figured this was a minor idling issue. after the work the engine is missing and the car stalls pretty much anytime i slow down for a turn unless i keep one foot on the accelerator and one on the brake to keep the rpm's up. starts ok but will stall if i don't keep the rpm's up. i found the firing order on the autozone website and confirmed that i have the plug wires on the correct posts on the distributor cap. also noticed that my "service engine soon" light pops on after a mile or so of driving and stays on. and now the cruise control won't engage; i've never had an issue with it before. i'm about 40 minutes away from the nearest parts store so i'd like to try to figure this out without making that trip, plus my weekend is now over and i need to go to work for the next 5 days and don't want to drive the car in it's current condition. thanks in advance for all advice and suggestions, please help me out!

Response From platinumfossil

both of you were right on with the vacuum hose idea. after reading your posts i spent some more time under the hood and found one hose totally off of its connection and another hose that had either been beat up by me or had just worn out. either way it was in pretty bad shape with some good splits running down the sides so i got it replaced and the other one i knocked off put back on.
i did some google work and found out how to get the check engine code with a paper clip and found out it was a 32. this code is: EGR vacuum switch was closed during start-up or idle, or EGR vacuum switch did not close when EGR solenoid was commanded to close by ECM for 5 seconds.
i don't know what the EGR vacuum switch is but with the help of some autozone.com searching i figured out what the solenoid is and the one bad hose i replaced was connected right below it. i disconnected my neg cable on the battery for about 30 seconds to clear the code then went for a drive. i drove about 15 minutes with no check engine light so i think i've got all the vacuum issues taken care of. tomorrow will be the best test since i have to drive about 20 minutes each way to work.
the main issue now is that the engine is still a little rough. not as bad as before i got the vacuum hoses back in place but she still likes to stall out when slowing to a stop. it will idle better now but is still rough and it will still die sometimes. i'm debating whether i should use one of my old spark plug wires to try to find if i have a bad new one, was also thinking about doing the same thing with an old plug. basically my plan was to swap the new ones out one at a time with an old one and go for a short drive to see if there is a difference. this will be pretty time consuming and was hoping there would be an easier way to find out if there was a cylinder misfiring and which one? thanks for the help to all.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Go back and check your firing order again and make sure all the wires are seated completely. If you still have a miss, remove the plugs again and look for cracks in the porcelain.

1986 Oldsmobile Ciera
2.8 liter V-6 VIN "X" 2-bbl

Response From platinumfossil

ok, i'm getting really ticked off at this problem....

i went to autozone yesterday and bought an ignition rotor (p/n DR923), ignition coil (p/n C846) and a pick up coil (p/n DR132). installed the ignition rotor and coil and pulled all of the plugs and plug wires back off to inspect them and check the gaps on the plugs. the wires are ok, no melted areas at least; i don't have a multimeter handy or i would check the wire resistance. the plugs weren't fouled, the gaps were good at .045, and none of the porcelain was cracked.
i couldnt get the pick up coil changed becasue i culdnt get the original one out. i dont know how to pull the shaft out that the pick up coil sits around, i did a google search but the one hit i found that was related to my situation said that i just had to pull the shaft out up and out. i did some tugging on it and it really ain't budging so i gave up on the pick up coil until i get my haynes manual. ordered one the other day online but it hasn't shown up in the mail yet.
so basically all i've done today is the ignition coil and rotor and checked the plugs and wires. reinstalled everything and now the damn engine wont start! it turns over and over but wont fire. i swapped back to the original ignition coil and rotor and double checked my firing order and tried again. no start!
i'm guessing i have an issue with the distributor now but don't know how to figure it out. any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated. thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From platinumfossil

yeah i've read this word for word on several auto help websites too, i was really hoping for an answer that involved someone actually considering my situation and trying to help. i suppose many problems can be solved with a copy and paste from another website or from a repair guide saved on your computer but it really doesn't help me right now.

the car ran, still missing and running roughly with stalling problems, all day yesterday. i didnt start it today because i wanted to work on a cool engine but i seriously doubt that the fuel pressure got screwed up overnight while sitting in my garage. i also don't think the compression got screwed up either, i double checked all of my vacuum lines since i beat them up last time and they are all good. to me it's obvious that the issue is somewhere in the spark requirement but i don't know how to eliminate it down to a specific part. i don't have a spark plug tester but may be able to figure out how to make one myself, the internet is a powerful tool. i'm not sure how to use a noid light to test the injector pulse, where would i touch the probe to?

Response From Hammer Time

Let me tell you something. I wrote every word of that answer. Yes, i use it a lot and I have answered for many forums and I bet other people have taken it and used it too. That is the exact procedure you have to follow. if you think there is some kind of magic shortcut, you're wrong. we need every bit of that information to isolate where your problem is coming from. If you feel that is too much work for you or you just want to assume things, then you need to find someone else to help you.

Response From platinumfossil

ok MC Hammer Time, i can see that i bent your feelers a bit so i'm probably going to have to give up on carjunky.com for help. oh well, there are others out there that maybe you aren't the only one who answers questions on.

let me tell you something. us everyday joes who join websites like this for help don't have a full shop in our garages like you self-proclaimed ASE masters do, so stuff like fuel pressure and compression tests are kinda tough to do. why don't you just answer all of your posts with "take your vehicle to an ASE master mechanic shop and pay out the arse for complete diagnostic testing and labor rates"
i'm not looking for any magic shortcuts, just simply some help. am i being totally absurd when i say the car ran yesterday so i don't think a fuel pressure or compression test are necessary? really?

We don't allow links here
thanks again for all of your fantastic help!!!

Response From Hammer Time

Lazy is not going to get your car fixed. If you want to try the crystal ball method, you're welcome to. We deal with facts.

You can get a spark tester and noid light both for under $10. The fuel pressure gauge and compression tester can be gotten for free through the loaner program at Autozone or PepBoys.

If you want to continue to throw parts at it with no testing, that will get a lot more expensive than a couple of testing tools.

Response From platinumfossil

yeah, i suppose i could borrow the tools from a local parts store. i think i mentioned in my original post that i'm about 40 minutes away from the nearest parts store though and like i mentioned in post #7 the car won't freaking start right now so it'll probably take more like 40 hours to push it to autozone. i'm not being lazy you ass, i'm trying to get my car running again with the limited resources i have available. as far as throwing parts at it goes, i don't mind replacing these parts since they've probably never been replaced or are overdue anyways. i want this car to run well for me for an extended period of time, that's why i was changing the plugs, wires and distributor in the first place. or are those a waste of money too in your "master" opinion?

Response From Hammer Time

that's why i was changing the plugs, wires and distributor in the first place

Yeah, how's that working out for you. If you keep prying on that distributor, you'll be replacing that too.

We don't guess or experiment, we test.

Response From tooanoyu

IMHO you still have a timing issue. Start fresh get a cup of coffee relax your fustrated.
1. Set the emgine to # 1 TDC pull the plug out of number 1 cylindar make sure it is on the top of the stroke. Lightly stick a screwdriver making sure it's there or a flashlight and make sure its there. WHY - Sure this will place the rotor where it needs to be on the distributor cap. then you can follow the diagram and trouble shoot it.

2. take of the distributor cap. Look at the position of the rotor it could be 180 degrees off???

3. Look to see if the rotor strike is at the same position on the contact point for number 1 plug wire. NOTE: just becuase the diagram shows where number one wire goes is doesn't mean thats where it is on the distributor cap. on my distributor cap it actually moves to the other side on the cap the cap is wired thru it.

You can actually be 180 dregrees off so long as you have the firing order right you can still have a good running car. Maybe when it was messed with before you could have happened.

You need to make sure where number one fire, spark, cap, rotar are thru the system then the rest will follow into place and follow the rotation of the firing order on the diagram.

Response From platinumfossil

Hammer Time thanks for the quick reply and for trying to assist me with this issue.

i found a similar diagram for the firing order last week when i started having the issue because that's what i figured i screwed up. the only difference is the diagram i found wasn't so handily color coded. the issue i have with both of the diagrams is that the posts are not perfectly aligned against the engine like the diagram shows. for example, the post for #2 in the diagram is at the 12 o'clock position, well when looking at them in real life it's more like at about 11 o'clock.
i will double check tomorrow after work and maybe start pulling plugs to look for a fouled or cracked one then i'll post up an update. i just hate to dig back in there too far because the vacuum hoses are in pretty bad shape. i didn't realize they were so bad until i started chasing them looking for a leak. also the various plastic parts of the vacuum system are pretty brittle, learned that the hard way earlier when i broke one. took some electrical tape to temporarily fix until i can get to napa again. thanks again!

Response From techforfree

Theres a pretty good chance you accidently pulled off a vacuum hose when you were tuning it up,that will cause the stalling,the check engine light and also the cruise control is vacuum controlled so it sounds they are related..look for that first.If the engine idles you can usually hear a hissing noise.Good luck..

Response From Hammer Time

First step is to have the codes read and see why the check engoine light is on. I'm expecting that you knocked off a vacuum hose somewhere or left something unplugged.