Shop Mitsubishi Spark Plug Wires

I doubt a compression problem would be intermittent like this. Check all your wiring connections and wiring harness. Look around for any burnt spots in the harness where it could be shorting. Tug on the wires when this is happening and see if it changes anything.

That's also what I was thinking, but I will do a compression test just to be sure. Will report results this weekend or the start of next week.

Which wires would you recommend to be checked?
The iginiton system on my car has two ignition coils.
One on cilinder 2 and one on clinder 4.
Cilinder 3 is connected to iginition coil on 2 and cilinder 1 to ignition coil on 4.
I would say that if one of the two connections to either ignition coil is giving trouble, this should relate to 2 cilinders instead of 1.

? LPG or "gasoline" does this for the first seconds of a cold start - right? Liquid fuel would need to be delivered richer but don't think LPG needs that?


Triggered by spark guess I'd watch spark for the time it does this which doesn't seen too long so be ready right when expected. Compression and spark both must be OK if it runs properly (if really does) in ~20 seconds.


No, I don't know. Just would be ruling things in or out and apparently only so much time to watch for this isn't helping,


T

The car always starts on gasoline.
As soon as the engine reaches a certain temperature it switches over to LPG, but I can manually switch between both fuels.

It is impossible to check the spark on the moment that I have this problem, because it randomly occurs. If it was occuring more often I would just remove sparkplug wires one at a time when the problem occured.

I haven't found a way to manually trigger this fault, but maybe it could be something with the wiring. That is something that I will check tonight if it stays dry outside.

Wow - so its design is to always start on gasoline then switch? Fine then now you say random and want to cancel spark to see vs using an in-line spark tester just flashes as current goes thru and would maintain spark doesn't stop it.


There's some risk at just unplugging a wire as the spark as no place to go so much better if you can ground that out so it doesn't seek another item if spark present and harm it - any engine that makes spark for ignition never mind this.
Random changes the game. I thought this would dependably do this for so many seconds. What would be random is now more likely spark but was thinking compression like a valve that was leaking down but wouldn't do that so much once already stable and running maybe just on initial start.
If you wish to cancel a plug without much for tools I guess I need to suggest you shut it off quickly and ground the plug wire.


You could ground a spark tester if you wish to get one and spark would always seek easiest ground.


Other is to mist the parts lightly with tap water and look for stray arcing of spark but you've listed this as happening with both old and new items so don't expect that to help and doesn't always show anything anyway.


The in-line spark tester I'm talking about doesn't stop the spark nor adjustable to test power of a coil just show evidence. That you can also see with an induction timing light now prehistoric but would be useful.


This whole set up is new to me. How an piston engine can run is basics - any fuel requiring a spark and 4 stroke shares crude basics in common,


T

The wire is connected properly.
Just by touching it you get a shock trough the rubber piece.
I found a picture of the ignition coil setup with wires.
Note: the ignition coil in the middle looks like it is connected to cilinder 3 but this should be flipped over to fit cilinder 2 and the wire should go on 3.

With engine running with everything connected properly:
Touching the part colored with red will give you a shock, touching the blue part doesn't.

I didn't get shocked for fun, I know that it is a high voltage shock. Next time I will try to spray some water mist over this place, I heard that you can see the shock pass through the water mist.

Already contacted the supplier of the wire and was offered a free replacement. Luckily I kept my old wires. However, these wires also gave the same misfire on cilinder 3.
I'm thinking about replacing the wire from ignition coil on 2 to 3 with the long wire that also goes from 4 to 1, since these cilinders seem to work fine (no fault codes on these cilinders).
There is room to place the additional cable that is on it.

Do you think that this would be a good idea, until I get new wires?

? Are you saying you already put old longer wire on and now fine for now? Sorry if misunderstood something along the way but yes coil tower if a total leak wouldn't change with a wire I would think so if it's acting all better now another new one could be it.


Got lost a bit and thought you had swapped or a new coil that didn't change the problem already - just me and didn't catch that if so.


If no shock now and running properly now your call on just tossing the coil if any suspicions left at all about it.


It's given you enough headaches and for the fix. As said, not running well isn't good for the engine or assorted emission controls down and out exhaust or the engine itself.


Sounds at least good so far - hope this will end it.


Refresh - easy handling plug wires and boots. Don't bend plug wire or pull on wire - pull on boots properly which is frequently with tools that do that with less chance of harm,


Tom

OK - Waiting but sounding good. Pic removed (got the idea anyway) pls go easy if too wide, whole thread goes too wide to read.


Pics don't always behave for me that I get off the web and could use showing some tools that really help for all this stuff. Spark plug boots for either ends can really stick and worries me that in so many the tight spaces, heat and they last longer and longer they'll just not tolerate being pulled on for checks - never liked that.


Just know - search out images of spark plug wire and boot tools. There are actually tons of assorted things. Rubber coated large tweezers things, a curled hook such that you are only pulling on boots not wire and all the assortment that protects a spark plug.


This stuff breaks easily just handling as said already. It very well could be YOU who caused this along the way and not blaming you just know stuff it there to avoid the damage. Best is never having to touch anything but impossible over time.


Testers for evidence of spark without removing anything - cool stuff if taking care of assorted things. Not all are costly at all and some are and mandatory. Just know what exists.


When you are sure 100% ready to toss the old parts for your own info, cut and use wire strippers on a plug wire. It's almost never a solid wire. Many like a carbon soaked string. You'll see that. That stuff can't be bent or moved around new and worse used is fragile. Just know that and tools to help,


Tom

? Do you have room for the longer wire on the bad shorter one? Use it if you can now. Still get the new one. Said, wires really don't like being mishandled. Do it as anytime an engine isn't running well it's just not good for it.


Water or a mist with a pinch of salt (some) will really conduct a stray spark but still may not see it. I use store bought window cleaner most of the time because it's all around my shop. The idea is except for distilled water most will have some ohm reading thru it of some electrical passage thru water. Definitely aggravates a what I'll call a "carbon trace" of the plastic hard parts like coil towers or where found can pass voltage thru the smallest crack or pencil looking line sometimes you see.
If I read the properly which color wire and you have the old ones hope that was the longer one that was good and room for it?


No great reason to me the same old and new wire were such the likely culprit,


T

There is room to place the longer wire, it's not pretty but it fits.
Car starts without any problems.
Just have to drive tomorrow to see if the misfires come up again.

Seeing the spark trough the water mist could indeed be difficult, best chance to see is at night.

I also made a picture of the new ignition wires. The printing on the short wire is almost completely gone. Wires have on the car for only 17 days. Could this also be an indication of some sort?




Picture deleted .............. too large and distorting thread

Eeek - LPG fuel. OK just no direct info specific to me on it.


If plugs, wires and coils make not difference tell me/us just how fuel is delivered - one cyl at a time or all from one source?


That or just check compression of that cylinder with a couple others - is it close to others with no problem?


T

Fuel is deliverd individually to each cilinder (there are 4 LPG injectors).
Switching to gasoline on when the engine is misfiring doesn't take away the problem. It will still go on for about the same time before returning to normal again.
This made me think that it isn't a fuel problem.

I will check compression as soon as possible, will most likely be this weekend. Would problems inside the cilinders not occur more constantly?

I have to resort to the most basic rules for an internal combustion engine operation for a 4 stroke fuel burning engine for this.


It still needs to compress the fuel in its vapor state to be useful. That's why I suggest a compression test comparison with cylinders that do work either fuel now you said. I can't know what set up was put in and alterations or if designed originally no info and zero experience by me personally.


It's lame because they are around for engines for warehouses - the public gas companies will buy up a fleet run on LNG and brag about it. I don't see those vehicles - ever.


It's all fine just need to find out why it's picking on one cylinder and compression would be first on my list in this case.


I actually bet you'll find it lower than it should be then move on to why. Save the rest of checks for your posting results.


Please do a "wet" test as well which means a squirt of oil and test the low or failed cylinder again. If that changes everything it's needed info while checking please so that.


Awaiting results of testing,


Tom

Hi there. Can I replace a 2002 use coil for my shot one on the 2003 mitz lancer?

I guess you can't read what the previous poster was told.

Content deleted

This thread is 2 years old. Please start a question of your own if you need help.

Thanks for the advice.

The problem ending up being on the harness. The connection into the first coil pack was bad. Replaced that connector and was good to go.

Thx 4 taking the time to let us know what fixed the problem.

additional information:
*My car is 2002 Lancer OZ rally 2.0

*The engine it was replaced with came from a 2003 Lancer ES

If the engine doesn't crank, you need to troubleshoot the starting system.

When your dealing with secondary ignition systems, the one thing that you never do is remove a spark plug wire and let it hang out in nothingness. You need to ground the plug wire, so the high secondary voltage can get to ground. If you don't do that, the high secondary voltage is going try and find a path to ground by either burning a hole through the coil or whatever way possible it can find a ground inside the distributor possibly frying solid state components inside the distributor.

If you want to disable cylinders, the best way is to unplug injectors if possible. If you can't get to the injector connectors, Use an inline spark tester that you can easily ground with a test light that is connected to battery neg. You can also slip short pieces of vacuum hose between the plug wires and terminals that you can ground with a test lamp. Those tricks will not only save you from destroying things, but save you from the pain of 40 K volts running through your body.

Does it have spark while cranking? Use an adjustable spark tester. Should be able to easily jump a 3/4 inch gap.