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Prestolite
1984 Lincoln Mark VII Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-10736C9    W0133-1620191  New

Qty:
$44.37
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Prestolite
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Lincoln Mark VII
Denso
1996 Lincoln Town Car Spark Plug Wire Set Denso

P311-3ADA247    W0133-1861510  New

Qty:
$63.25
Denso Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Denso
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Lincoln Town Car
Standard Wires
1996 Lincoln Town Car Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 4.6L Standard Wires

P311-3DC1CFE    26915  New

Qty:
$45.49
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Lincoln Town Car V - 281
Standard Wires
1970 Lincoln Continental Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Wires

P311-395383A    27815  New

Qty:
$17.02
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1970 - Lincoln Continental V 7539 460
Standard Wires
1987 Lincoln Mark VII Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 5.0L Standard Wires

P311-3D9BBE4    26900  New

Qty:
$25.77
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN
1987 - Lincoln Mark VII V - 302 M
Standard Wires
1989 Lincoln Mark VII Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 5.0L Standard Wires

P311-1EB63E9    26897  New

Qty:
$21.80
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Submodel
1989 - Lincoln Mark VII V - 302 Bill Blass
Standard Wires
1970 Lincoln Continental Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Wires

P311-165F9B7    7815  New

Qty:
$32.32
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • OE Performance Plus
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1970 - Lincoln Continental V 7539 460
Standard Wires
1992 Lincoln Continental Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.8L Standard Wires

P311-20E2A7B    26661  New

Qty:
$20.02
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1992 - Lincoln Continental V - 232
Standard Wires
1981 Lincoln Mark VI Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 5.0L Standard Wires

P311-3953A5D    26899  New

Qty:
$25.93
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1981 - Lincoln Mark VI V - 302
Standard Wires
1994 Lincoln Town Car Spark Plug Wire Set Standard Wires

P311-2B3F5CE    26914  New

Qty:
$43.20
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Lincoln Town Car
Standard Wires
1978 Lincoln Continental Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Wires

P311-4C4C0C5    26880  New

Qty:
$21.15
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1978 - Lincoln Continental V - 460
Standard Wires
1951 Lincoln Cosmopolitan Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 5.5L Standard Wires

P311-5BF5D47    23800  New

Qty:
$18.88
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Universal Wire Set Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1951 - Lincoln Cosmopolitan V 5518 337
Standard Wires
1979 Lincoln Mark V Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 6.6L Standard Wires

P311-45ABE1D    26823  New

Qty:
$19.22
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1979 - Lincoln Mark V V - 400
Standard Wires
1993 Lincoln Town Car Spark Plug Wire Set Standard Wires

P311-5D5BB53    26904  New

Qty:
$44.93
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Lincoln Town Car
Standard Wires
1976 Lincoln Continental Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Wires

P311-57344B9    27816  New

Qty:
$13.65
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1976 - Lincoln Continental V - 460
Standard Wires
1998 Lincoln Continental Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 4.6L Standard Wires

P311-5B91537    26917  New

Qty:
$60.86
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1998 - Lincoln Continental V - 281
Standard Wires
1951 Lincoln Cosmopolitan Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 5.5L Standard Wires

P311-5AA36B3    3800  New

Qty:
$29.09
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Universal Wire Set OE Performance Plus
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1951 - Lincoln Cosmopolitan V 5518 337
Standard Wires
1993 Lincoln Mark VIII Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 4.6L Standard Wires

P311-56FF793    26905  New

Qty:
$58.52
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Lincoln Mark VIII V - 281
Standard Wires
1952 Lincoln Cosmopolitan Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 5.2L Standard Wires

P311-33214D5    29848  New

Qty:
$11.83
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1952 - Lincoln Cosmopolitan V 5204 318
Standard Wires
1978 Lincoln Continental Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 7.5L Standard Wires

P311-3E93FEE    6880  New

Qty:
$38.99
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • OE Performance Plus
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1978 - Lincoln Continental V - 460

Latest Lincoln Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

94 lincoln towncar

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From baldeagle56 on 94 lincoln towncar

I have a 94 lincoln town car sometime hard to start but once it start and I put it in gear, car shut, I can like have feet on brake and gas pedal and put in gear and can drive for for awhile, but as soon as I stop at traffic light it cut off again.. change fuel filter, Idle air sensor still doing it,.......HELP ME. Disable veteran..Please..

Response From Discretesignals

Idle air sensor

What is this?

Check engine light on?

Response From Hammer Time

It's quite obvious he's talking about an IAC.

Response From nickwarner

Where's Tom?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Get whatever codes it might show. 4.6 engine was pretty good. Some and not sure which years went to a plastic intake that was a problem but usually would leak coolant.

Other is the deep well long spark plug wires at the plugs would leak the spark out unseen but would run rough if so.

Some easy things to check are that there are no vacuum leaks and check a couple different ways if needed and that air intake parts are not split or leaking in wrong places.

Clean throttle body then on to IAC - clean first then replace if idle is too low but may run fine otherwise,

T

1993 Lincoln Towncar Won' Start

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From smi889 on 1993 Lincoln Towncar Won' Start

Car all of a sudden wouldn't start one day. Fuel pressure 40PSI, spark thru plugs, power to injectors, cranks well, spray into intake and it fires. I'm down to the ECM. Loosened bolt on ECM connector but cannot remove connector. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Response From smi889

Got the computer and connector. Connector was a real pain to get off. The retainer in the computer was spinning and and it finally broke out. Put them in today and the car is running. I'm never comfortable til I drive it awhile. Thanks all!

Response From way2old


Car all of a sudden wouldn't start one day. Fuel pressure 40PSI, spark thru plugs, power to injectors, cranks well, spray into intake and it fires. I'm down to the ECM. Loosened bolt on ECM connector but cannot remove connector. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



With 40 psi fuel pressure the inertia switch is OK.

Response From smi889

Waiting for a computer and connector!

Response From Master_Rick

I know this may be just way to easy,but did you think of the rollover switch in the trunk...it really only takes a good bump to trip it.kid on a bikre or moving something in the trunk. Anyway,It's just something I always check first,and since your car is 14 years old it might trip a little easier.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure what that year did for relays. If it has the box on driver's inner fender with the relays named on or in the cover the relays are all the same (check though) and you could use the A/C relay as a test. If the older unmarked type the relay for fuel pump has green on the connection. These relays have been a problem and your fuel pump may work for a test but not while cranking. In that it reacts to priming it I still think there is a fuel pressure problem while cranking that by your test didn't show up perhaps with key in just "run" position,

T

Response From smi889

Tom thanks for the quick response! I have swapped the relays mentioned and I also have power to the injectors. Just don't seem to bet getting the ground return for them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok: I'm guessing you are spraying starting fluid down intake which is a good test. If it had no spark that wouldn't do squat. For the moment I'm ruling out spark problems as the priming seems to work. This may be leading me in the wrong direction but is there a chance the fuel is messed up? If you have the pressure tester can you keep it running with starter fluid or small amounts of gas long enough to watch the fuel pressure? This should be the 4.6 engine and they are not known for a lot of problems that I know of.

How many miles are on this? I've seen them go with little trouble right over 200k. What possibly prevoked this problem? Recent work, new tank of gas - any clues there?

A jumped timing chain could do this but I have never known this engine to do that. Some other cooky things have been the reset in the trunk for the fuel pump. It's shuts off there if the car is in an accident but you would have no fuel pressure??

I've worked on a bunch of these but never had major engine problems. Seems like you have spark - good, you seem to have fuel pressure enough - good -- but are we sure it's fuel and not possibly water which I didn't think would pass thru the fuel filter but might.

Just a warning: Don't over crank this engine! That starter motor is a pill to replace!! Another thing that has happened a lot to these is the spark plug wires have a long hard insulater end that shorts out that plug and they run like crap but they still run. It's absurd to think enough of them went bad all at once to not run.

Another fault could be that excessive trying has flooded out the plugs. Hard to diagnose as when you test you get spark at the wire but the plug can't deal with being soaked and air drying alone won't fix that. Heat on each plug to glowing or just replace them if that's a possibility.

It would be nice to know what brought this on and whether you can get a spark at the plug wire at plug end to guess at what to do next. The EEC relay can shut this down too but you would have no spark.

We need some more observations right now,

T

Response From smi889

Tom, nothing had been replaced before the problem, It has 80,000 miles on it, spark is going through the plug, the injectors have power but are not pulsing. I drove it home one Saturday with no problem. The next Saturday I went to go shopping and it cranked fine but would not start. Hasn't started since. I want to replace the ECM but I can't get the connector out. The retaing bolt spins but he connector won't budge.

Response From way2old

The ECM connector might be real tight to remove. Go under the dash and remove the clip from the mounting bracket. Them slidwe the ECM toward the center of car and pull back to remove. This may give you enpough room to work the connector loose. The bolt does not come all the way out of the connector.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for jumping in on this Mr way2old! I was thinking of the wrong part for this car,

T

Response From way2old

One other thing to check. Look under the right front bumper area and see if you can find any wires broken or corroded really bad. Ford is famous for the wires breaking at that point where they make an upturn to run over the radiator support. There may be a brown wire that is broken or possibly a small green one with a red or white stripe. Chased a lot of those down over the years.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ah! No pulse - that explains it. Is that the ECM mounted on driver's side under hood near hinge? Been a while and the car was a 92 - totalled and had unplugged itself there. I thought it was just a sheet metal/lag bolt that held it??

Hmmm. There might be a hidden speed nut out of site that just spins behind it. See if you can pull hard on that while trying or sometimes air tools (air speeder) adapted down to 1/4 drive will scare things like that out. Same with the clip nuts used around cars.

I think that thing may need to be grounded by that bolt to work but don't recall right now.

____________________

I did a ton of stuff on location for a Livery company that bought a bunch of really nice totalled Town Cars for the onslaught of needed parts that get wrecked in hard use and needed parts 24/7. Those were fun days.

_________________________

Off Topic Warning with these: That child lock for back doors can get put half way between choices and door won't open from in or out no matter what you do but fuss with it for a loooong time as it's near impossible to take the door panel off with door closed. That was a real hoot when it happened to a limo version used for the usual weddings and stuff and they can't get out!! Use metal duct tape to secure those in the position you want to prevent that.

Let us know how you are making out,

T

hard starting , rough idle

Showing 9 out of 10 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From tweety on hard starting , rough idle

After my 1990 Ford F150, 6 cylinder, 4.9 engine, two wheel drive, automatic transmission with 55000 miles on it had not been driven for a month or so I tried to start it. It would start but in a few seconds it would start running rough and die. It would do this several times and then continue to run but still run rough. Punch the gas and it would stall and die.

Since it had been sitting up I suspected something was sticking or gummed up. The last time it had been driven it ran fine.

I took it to the dealer, Brian Toliver Ford-Lincoln-Mercury in Sulphur Springs, Texas, expecting to get it back within a week. Three weeks later and at the cost of over $1200 I picked it up and it still does not run right.

Here is what they told me was done:
Solis setup/follow multiple code. Follow pinpoint test-replace EEC relay- retest- replace MAP sensor- retest-clean throttle body and idle air control valve- retest- sparkplugs gas fouled- lower exhaust and check for restriction- none found- replace sparkplugs- retest- code 96 unable to clear- install breakout box to isolate- processor internal failure to fuel management circuit- replace processor. Replaced fuel filter.

The parts they replaced are as follows:
1 r647 relay
1dy-527 sensor
1 60846 gasket
6 sp-452 spark plugs
112a650 PCM
1 fuel filter

When I went to pick it up the service manager said it was still not running right and suggested that I let them put on new spark plug wires. At this point I’m beginning to think of him as a parts salesman instead of a service manager. I said no and took it home.

I thought that with all their test equipment that they could find and fix it. Is it really that hard to find, are they incompetent, or were they just trying to make up for a bad economy? Which do you think it is? I don’t know but I’ve lost a lot of faith in Ford motor company.

When I checked under the hood I found covers at test sites missing, parts loose, and in two cases things in the motor compartment completely detached.

I have since tested the resistance of the plug wires and they range from 60 ohms to 8000 ohms. Checked all vacuum hoses. Checked fuses. Checked the distributor for cracks and wires for cracks. Put cleaner into the gas tank to clean the fuel injectors. Yesterday I remover the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator. It started immediately, ran good for 30 seconds, then died. Put the hose back on, started immediately, ran for good for 30 seconds, then died. Took the plug off the vacuum tree, started immediately, ran great and kept on running until the key was turned off. When I punched the gas it revved up and didn’t stall. Today I tried it again without the vacuum plug. The first two times it started and died immediately. The third time it ran smooth. Put it in gear and it ran rough for a few seconds, then smoothed out. Drove it three or four miles, still running good. Turned the AC on at idle, still good.

I could run it like that but it’s probably not good to be sucking dust into the mix and also it probably is polluting or something and maybe even dangerous because something else might not work correctly.

If anyone has some ideas of what is going on I sure would appreciate hearing them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! Three weeks , $1,200 bucks and they had the audacity to give it back to you not running properly! They left stuff off, unplugged etc.?

That's just bad work, bad all around. If they truly lack diagnostic ability THEY should have refused the job but not sure dealers are really able (perhaps a car maker's rule for franchise) to turn down a vehicle they sell or at least tell you what is wrong and why they can't do it. No excuse for leaving covers off of things.

It's nearing or at 20 years old and there are some things that could be unavailable but they should have told you.

What I'm reading now - it runs fine with a vacuum hose off and runs rough with it back on - right? What does that vacuum hose go to or come from? What ever that changed it can only be covering up a problem so it isn't fixed.

I'd have that bill adjusted by management and seek a reputable independent shop.

Some of the 300CID/4.9 six engines did have an issue with stretched head bolts leading to leaking head gasket. If the turn to spec bolts they must be replaced new if that's the issue but the diagnostic time spent should have found this.
________________

Is this a random roughness or picking on a certain cylinder? You can feel that at the tailpipe then if one cylinder concentrate on why that one. Are plug wires original? Why for the low cost of those haven't you ruled them out with new ones?
/ Price: $24.99
AVAILABILITY: SEND TO STORE LIST AVAILABLE Normally stocked at your local store. ******************* That's not enough money for parts that could have been done if you just were doing a PM tune up. An average DIYer can cancel one plug at a time grounding it at spark plug end and find the one cylinder (if just one) that's the trouble and diagnose that cylinder. This is a messed up way to do biz so talk to the person in charge of the whole place about this is my suggestion, T

Response From tweety

Thanks for the reply, Tom.

Actually when I pulled different vacuum hoses off the truck it either dies immediately or runs for a few seconds and then dies. What let it run good for so long was when I pulled the plug off the vacuum tree. I'm probably not calling it the right thing but it is where a fitting that has no hose connected is plugged and where you would connect the vacuum gauge to run a test.

As far as why I haven't replaced the plug wires, I just got tired of throwing money at it and wanted to find out what was really wrong. Since it runs perfect with the vacuum plug off I can't believe replacing the wires would have any effect. I forgot to mention that I did check all the plugs to see if they were firing and they were.

I do agree that the problem may be vacuum connected, either something should open or close and it isn't.

I even replaced the heat sending unit because the temperature gauge wasn't giving a reading. I was hoping that was the cure. I now get a temperature reading but it didn't affect the idle.


If you have any other ideas I'm still listening.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Old school thinking and you have a valid point with plug wires. The vacuum tree unplugged it's capable of running ok. Most engineering defaulted to an acceptable running engine but would lack the tweek controls observed by even mechanical vacuum devices.

Note: The high voltage of spark and anything electric is seeking ground. Plug wires and anything directing the secondaries (high volt items) are under stress with load on engine and may seek ground w/o making the plug do the last arc to fire the mix. All the items are forcing the spark to jump at the plug but doesn't care where it ends up. Again - load is harder for it to make that spark then no load.

The typical vacuum tree is sensing engine temps and routes vacuum to assorted controls as needed according to engine temp OR the load on engine to adjust fuel mixture, timing even as long ago as 1990.

I would need to know what the vacuum tree (there may be more than one) is controlling. The era stopped EGR from operation till engine warmed up and routed that vacuum to devices for that and more based usually on engine temp.

The gauge. That is separate from usually a two wire temp sensor placed near thermostat usually to tell how much fuel to deliver. I think default is richer not leaner but I'm guessing,

T

Response From tweety

Tom, if you can hang with me for a couple of days I'll try to track down the routes of all those vacuum hoses.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just know - many cars/trucks back when has a decal sticker showing vacuum routing. At the age which is familiar to me look for that and plastic vacuum line that looks like wire - it can originate at a rubber part then to plastic which becomes brittle and breaks. In the infinite wisdom of auto makers they put them where then can break just checking fluid levels! Arggh! Bail out the stupid!

If broken plastic line is found, it can be spliced with window washer sized hose, FYI. Rubber elbows fail as well. Making a loop of hose out of harms way can create the right angle. Use automotive grade hose as needed if you find bad hose and elbows that tolerate heat and oils,

T

Response From tweety

You're right about the schematic of the vacuum lines but it doesn't show all of them and I wanted to make sure they were accounted for. Here's what I got.

air bypass valve to SOLV tab
main vacuum to VRESER
VRESER to EVR
EGR to EVR
main vacuum to FPR
main vacuum to MAP
EFCA to PCV
main vacuum to power brakes
main vacuum to ac and heater doors

ERV solenoid bracket assembly to something that looks like a tin can.
main vacuum to a T or splitter. one line goes to another can and the other line goes to something about 6 or 8 inched round that has a hose coming out of it that goes into the passenger compartment. This thing also has a cable coming out of it that goes to the air throttle body and hooks the same place as the throttle cable.

I hope you make more sense out of this than I did.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pardon my jumping in;
tweety; First, agree with Tom; I'd be back in the manager's office. If this runs better with a large vacuum line off, that is telling me that it is running too rich. I see that they replaced the MAP sensor. It should have manifold vacuum going to it. Also, use your vacuum guage and tell us what reading you are getting at idle. If the vacuum is lower than 14 or 15hg, it could be causing the MAP sensor to go rich. If you can get to the injectors, take an ohm reading of each individual injector. Could have one or more bad. Take a fuel pressure reading (with the vacuum hose to the regulator connected). Also, note if there is any fuel visible in the vacuum hose where it attaches to the regulator. (do this with the engine off). If the regulator is leaking, fuel may come squirting out with the engine running. (this should also have manifold vacuum going to it...a loss of vacuum will cause it to go full rich). With the pressure guage still attached, turn off the engine and watch the pressure to see if it drops. Notice how many pounds it drops in, say, five minutes.
Of course, I wasn't there, but would have to agree with Tom, poor diagnostics. Sounds like they were just throwing parts at it.

Response From tweety Top Rated Answer

Hey! All help appreciated.

I checked the vacuum and it runs at a pretty steady 20 inches. I believe that is about right for my part of the country.

It seems impossible getting to the fuel injectors without taking the intake manifold off.

The gasoline is under pressure at all times and I'm not sure how to handle that so I better leave it alone.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

tweety; In my humble opinion, you shouldn't have to be having to do these diagnostics, anyway. You have paid someone that should know, at least something, about Fords to repair your problem. If I diagnose a problem incorrectly, and believe me, it happens, I will put the customer's old part back on at no charge. Not his fault, mine. Like I said, just my opinion. Good luck.