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Bosch
1993 Chrysler Concorde Spark Plug Wire Set Bosch

P311-3A2A5A8    W0133-1625775  New

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$26.79
Bosch Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Bosch
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Vehicle
1993 - Chrysler Concorde
Prestolite
1993 Chrysler Concorde Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-087C1E9    W0133-1615143  New

Qty:
$74.84
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Prestolite
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Vehicle
1993 - Chrysler Concorde
Prestolite
1990 Chrysler Town & Country Spark Plug Wire Set Prestolite

P311-237A05E    W0133-1625469  New

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$26.89
Prestolite Spark Plug Wire Set
Brand: Prestolite
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1990 - Chrysler Town & Country
Mopar
2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser Spark Plug Wire Set Mopar

P311-146CE0B    W0133-1877816  New

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$38.98
Mopar Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
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Vehicle
2001 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Mopar
2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser Spark Plug Wire Set Mopar

P311-325F5AF    W0133-1915813  New

Qty:
$36.56
Mopar Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
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Vehicle
2005 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
NGK
1983 Chrysler LeBaron Spark Plug Wire Set NGK

P311-3ABC161    W0133-1628022  New

Qty:
$18.64
NGK Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ME51 NGK
Brand: NGK
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Vehicle
1983 - Chrysler LeBaron
Bremi
2004 Chrysler Crossfire Spark Plug Wire Set Bremi

P311-5F00D28    W0133-1605031  New

Qty:
$188.61
Bremi Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - 12 Wire Set
Brand: Bremi
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Vehicle
2004 - Chrysler Crossfire
Mopar
2009 Chrysler Aspen Spark Plug Wire Set Mopar

P311-0CFF7B2    W0133-1929590  New

Qty:
$68.88
Mopar Spark Plug Wire Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
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Vehicle
2009 - Chrysler Aspen
Standard Wires
2001 Chrysler Town & Country Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.8L Standard Wires

P311-30D396B    27703  New

Qty:
$20.95
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Chrysler Town & Country V - 230
Standard Wires
2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Wires

P311-14F53CD    27570  New

Qty:
$21.00
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - Chrysler PT Cruiser L 2429 148
Standard Wires
2000 Chrysler Town & Country Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.8L Standard Wires

P311-17DA9E0    27670  New

Qty:
$20.05
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2000 - Chrysler Town & Country V - 230
Standard Wires
2001 Chrysler Sebring Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Wires

P311-3236568    25416  New

Qty:
$18.77
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Wire set only, does not contain Direct Ignition Coil boots Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
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Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type
2001 - Chrysler Sebring L 2351 - SOHC
Standard Wires
1997 Chrysler Sebring Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Wires

P311-0332F21    27526  New

Qty:
$19.82
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
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Vehicle Block CC CID
1997 - Chrysler Sebring L 2429 148
Standard Wires
1956 Chrysler Town & Country Spark Plug Wire Set 8 Cyl 5.8L Standard Wires

P311-395383A    27815  New

Qty:
$16.17
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
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Vehicle Block CC CID
1956 - Chrysler Town & Country V 5802 354
Standard Wires
1995 Chrysler Sebring Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.0L Standard Wires

P311-1BC943E    27507  New

Qty:
$20.95
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Chrysler Sebring L 1996 122
Standard Wires
1995 Chrysler Sebring Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 2.5L Standard Wires

P311-1C83D8F    27681  New

Qty:
$41.37
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Chrysler Sebring V 2497 152
Standard Wires
2005 Chrysler Sebring Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.0L Standard Wires

P311-4378781    27704  New

Qty:
$41.43
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - Chrysler Sebring V 2972 181
Standard Wires
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Spark Plug Wire Set 4 Cyl 2.4L Standard Wires

P311-17817A0    27587  New

Qty:
$19.90
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID
2006 - Chrysler PT Cruiser Turbocharged L 2429 148
Standard Wires
2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.0L Standard Wires

P311-4653565    27668  New

Qty:
$20.09
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2000 - Chrysler Grand Voyager V 2972 181
Standard Wires
1993 Chrysler Dynasty Spark Plug Wire Set 6 Cyl 3.3L Standard Wires

P311-2C55C81    29650  New

Qty:
$16.92
Standard Wires Spark Plug Wire Set
  • Pro Series
  • Spark Plug Wire Set - STD
Brand: Standard Wires
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Chrysler Dynasty V - 201

Latest Chrysler Repair and Spark Plug Wires Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Town and Country Rough Running, P2308 code, Coil? Wires? Plugs?

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From djs789 on Town and Country Rough Running, P2308 code, Coil? Wires? Plugs?

I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country 3.3l. The check engine light is on and I am getting P2308 error code. The Parts store print out says this is an erratic signal from the ignition coil secondary circuit.
The probable causes are:
1.Faulty spark plug or coil boot or 2.Failed ignition coil.
The van is running rough, Has a rough idle, Hesitation, Sputtering, Excessive engine vibration.
I replaced the spark plug wires a month ago. I replaced the coil and the spark plugs today.
The van is still running rough any suggestions?

Response From Hemi Guy

First make sure the ignition wire boots are dry and free of al moisture. If that doesn’t do it
Chrysler has a pcm update (re-flash) for p2308. (TSB number 18-008-05).

Response From djs789

Update:
I traced a bad coil driver signal going into the coil all the way back to back to the pcm for coil#3. I determined the pcm had a bad coil driver for the #3 coil. I ordered the remanned computer from Auto Computer Exchange in FL.
I installed the new computer. It seems to work. The computer has a lifetime warranty so I think I am golden. Thanks for your help.

Response From Sidom

There are a few more other things that can cause this problem then what you have listed. That code is for the coil circuit for #3 cyl. You should've had a P0303 as well...strange...

Since you've changed the plugs with no change, what you can do is clear the codes and switch the #3 wire to a different cyl. If you get a code for the cyl you moved the wire to then you have a bad wire...

After that it gets a lot more indepth and you will need a scanner and some other equipment to check out the circuit out to see where the problem lies..........

Response From djs789 Top Rated Answer

Update:
I checked for arcing at night. No arcing. I rechecked and set gaps on the new plugs I put in.

The p2308 code is an error in the ignition coil #3. Coil #3 fires cylinders 2 and 5.
Erased the code. Then I flopped sprk plug wires from another cylinder for the number 2 wire.
I get the same p2308 code come. I did the same with the 5 cylinder wire with the same results.
So I am pretty sure its not the wires, plugs, and coil (which is new).

I checked with a TEST LIGHT the control wires for all three of the coils with the engine running.
Pin #1 (brown/orange wire) control wire for coil #3 LIGHT GLOWS CONSTANT. I think this is wrong.
Pin #4 (dark blue/tan wire) control wire for coil #2 LIGHT FLASHES - I think this is normal.
Pin #3 (dark blue/dark green wire) control wire for coil #1 LIGHT FLASHES - I think this is normal.

Since the control wire glows the wire must not be bad or grounded. I think the pcm must be bad.
Probably a good bet the computer is bad and should be replaced?

I don't know. Is there anything else I should check? The pcm is expensive. What do you think?

Any suggestions on replaing the computer if you think I should?

97 Sebring is running very hot

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From hackett9315 on 97 Sebring is running very hot

Hello. I have a 97 Chrysler Sebring LXI coupe. In the past two months, I got a new timing belt, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new distributor cap, new valve cover and at least three oil refills/changes. After this, my car ran perfectly for 1 week, then my check engine light came on while I was out of town for the weekend. I came back and the light went off, and now my temp gauge is running very hot, except when I have my foot on NEITHER the brake nor the accelerator. It runs hottest when I am idling. I am leaking something, but only every other day! I have coolant in there, so now what? Is this going to cost me another huge sum of money?


Thanks for all your help!

Response From leevit2stever Top Rated Answer

OK....first of all u need to see if your cooling fan,or fans are kicking on
while engine is running turn on your A/C when u do....at least 1 fan should kick on
if not 1st check the temperature sending unit (sensor) the fluid leak may just be from the overflow tube
if the fans are not working

Response From autojoe

Is leaking around timing cover?If so water pump could be bad.

misfiring

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From sten on misfiring

1998 Chrysler Sebring
6 Cyl.
119000 mi.

Just bought this car for my Daughter and have had the following done with no results. (paid $1500.00, but put $695.00 on sales slip to help with sales tax, got boned)

Replaced plugs, rotor, dist. cap.
Checked out misfire Cyl 5, codes PO300 & PO305 found.
Leak down test (Good) for Cyl.5
Compression Test 172
Replace lower and upper intake Gaskets
Swap Injector & Spark Plug 5 & 6 No Change.

I also had to replace the Cat. Converter because it was broken up inside, the guy at the Garage said that could have been from the injector at 5 shooting to much gas and overheating the Cat.
Garage said the computer seems as if it was replace at some time because there is a sticker on it that says it has to be programed and New cars do not have these stickers.
He suspects a wire could be the problem but says it could take days to find it. I'm already into this thing for $1200.00 (parts & labor) on the of the $1500.00 I paid. Could someone point me in the right dir. if I were to trouble shoot the wiring myself. I do HVAC so I do know something of wiring.

Thanks

Response From re-tired

It would help if you descibed the problem history a bit more .Does it misfire all the time , or hot , cold , under a load , at idle only or at speed too . When did it start ? With what you have given us I would guess : broken valve spring ,bad lifter ,cam lobe worn .

Response From sten


It would help if you descibed the problem history a bit more .Does it misfire all the time , or hot , cold , under a load , at idle only or at speed too . When did it start ? With what you have given us I would guess : broken valve spring ,bad lifter ,cam lobe worn .

Response From sten

It only misses at an idle and after it has been warmed up for 15-20 min. It runs fine while driving. My Daughter just bought the car and the guy said he was going to help out by writing it up for $695.00 instead of $1500.00 that we paid, got boned on the deal

Response From re-tired

I seem to recall several sebrings having egr valve problems . Try driving with the egr valve disconnected .

Response From nickwarner

I see in your post you didn't mention changing the spark plug wires. try switching wires with a known good cylinder and see if the misfire moves off of #5. Also, which 6cyl do you have? Chrysler has made a few different ones and knowing the exact one helps us out a lot.

Response From sten

Sorry I thought i put in the post that the plugs , wires, cap and, rotor are all new.
It has the 2.5L SOHC Multiport fuel inj

Response From sten Top Rated Answer


I see in your post you didn't mention changing the spark plug wires. try switching wires with a known good cylinder and see if the misfire moves off of #5. Also, which 6cyl do you have? Chrysler has made a few different ones and knowing the exact one helps us out a lot.

87 Lebaron Stalls Out - any ideas?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From MustXcape on 87 Lebaron Stalls Out - any ideas?


My 1987 CHRYSLER LEBARON GTS 2.2L 135cid L4 TBI (D) automatic 4door hatchback has a tendency to stall unexpectedly. It will do this any time, anywhere, at any temperature (cool or hot). This problem is intermittant, with days or a week or more between incidents. Typically the car starts fine and drives fine for at least 3 miles before stalling. It can stall at any speed, from idle to highway speed (it has stopped cold on the interstate). Typically, it will then refuse to restart for at least 20-30 minutes before restarting and again appear to run fine.
I have checked the electrical connections and vacum lines for breaks.
The cap, rotor, spark plug wires, plugs, air & fuel filter, look good.
I checked the engine codes via the instrument cluster "check engine" light method and it showed no problems.
I suspect a fuel problem, but can't be sure. The most recent service work was to replace the rusted and leaking gas tank, reusing the old fuel pump and sender assemblies. But this was several months ago and the car had run fine (for awhile).
I had heard this problem was typical of MAP sensor failure so I replaced it with no affect.
Does anyone know a cause of this problem that might be specific to this vehicle?

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Listen, this is not good at all...I had a 94 Lebaron 4dr, 3.0L V6, and it did the same thing...you know what happened next? I tried to start it one day to move it into my driveway and the car started on fire...the adjuster for the insurance company came out and said that it is an Electrical Harness and it is $800 to fix it...most of the wires from the battery to the starter, and engine were burnt to hell. Hope this helps...and GOOD LUCK! this happened about a week and a half ago and I'm still trying to get my money for the car. Has 144,000 miles on it, didnt catch the car fully on fire...but the engine is probably fried too

2002 Town Country w/ code p0204 ... help!

Showing 2 out of 50 Posts | Show 48 Hidden Posts
Question From tobycatt95 on 2002 Town Country w/ code p0204 ... help!

Here is the van info... 2002 Chrysler Town & Coutry LXi w/ 3.8 & 180,000 miles.

I'll try to give you the short story! We drove it to supper Saturday, then on the way home it began to chug & shake... like misfiring. Stopped driving, got a dolly & towed it home. My hubby pulled the codes & it gave P0204. This was the only code! Injector 4 issue. We started by testing the olms of injectors, all were 12 - 13 olms (I think) or normal! (( My hubby had plans tonight so it is just me to word this message - may sound girly - sorry ;-)) We got to looking online & found some folks that had melted injector harnesses. Looked at that & wholaa! The heat guard mesh looked fine, but underneath all the wires had lost their coating & were bare, about 1.5" from the main "big" plug, down about 6 inches or so. The wires were nice & coppery, but I am sure they were able to touch & that's not good. We figured this must be the issue! My dad rewired the harness, it is all put back together & taped up. We plan to stick a split heater hose or something around the bundle so it doesn't happen again for a while anyways... but ... we are still having issues. The thing is still chugging. Thought maybe we fouled a plug, so we replaced the #4.. it looked pretty ok though, wasn't wet or terribly black.. but for 10 bucks, just replaced it. The others seem to have spark. We started checking, removing them one at a time to see any change in motor. There is none. He checked the olms of the front 3 wires spark plug wires & #2 was 8.5, #4 & #6 were 5.2, 5.3. Don't know if that is helpful.. We took a screwdriver and touched it to each of the front injectors after watching someone online do this as a way to make sure all the injectors were working, laid our ear on the end, & the spark noise in #4 injector was much weaker. The fellow we were watching said that could indicate a partially blocked injector, So we thought maybe the injector was clogged or partially blocked... as we were not getting any codes at this time. So we replaced the #4 injector. Now the "tick" noise is nice & loud like the rest, but van is still chugging. Sounds like a very sick hot rod! So I hopped online again & started looking. We are thinking about trying to rent one of those noid light testers, if our autozone has one... but we seem to be getting spark & stuff.. Maybe the wiring harness is still the issue? My dad used to rebuild cars & my hubby too! So they kind of know what they are doing. My dad for sure! I am confident that the wires are all done correctly. So we don't know what else to try. We seem to be getting the correct olms from the coil... but maybe it's the coil? We are now pulling a P0204 code again. Hubby will try to switch them out & run codes again to see if the code changes with the injector switch. But should we try anything else? The computer might be bad? Maybe? Could all that wire exposed cause a permanent "mess up" in there? Could it be the catalytic converter? Maybe it fouled? (but wouldn't it put a code up?) The map sensor? Would that put a code up? All the other folks with melted wiring harnesses just replaced them or fixed them up & had running vans, so we were hopeful. But murphy is always around when we have a "project"... It's never the easy fix for us...lol. Just wondering if we are heading in the right direction & what else you folks would try. My hubby has no idea I am posting here, but he is so busy & if I can give him some possible solutions to check, it would sure help!! The van runs rough at idle & at acceleration...we haven't really driven it much! Just to do a quick test drive to see what it acted like after we did all of these things... it shakes & chugs. It did quit on & off, the chugging & vibrating... when we reached 55 mph, but comes right back! And the loud chug noise never goes away. The exhaust is puttering rough! It is rhythmic, like a bum, bum, bum, bum, bum... like a bad harley or street rod. it is a little slower to accelerate, meaning the gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to achieve 55 mph. It Doesn't quit or stall, just chu chugs! And when it hits about 40mph it really starts to shake & vibrate. Has to be something with that #4 injector to keep pulling that code after we clear it out, right? Or the computer? Ok,,,, Thanks so much for any advice or insight! We don't have much $$ and need to keep this ole' girl going for a couple years yet!


(edited out hyperlink to another site)

Response From Discretesignals

Wow...that was the shortest story I've ever read.

Noid lights aren't not too expensive. That would give you a visual confirmation that the #4 injector circuit has power and control from the PCM. Possible for the injector driver in the PCM to be damaged from the exposed wires shorting, but further testing should be done to be sure of that.

Response From tobycatt95

Lol... I know, I know. Short story versions are so hard for me! My hubby looked at the post & laughed too. We will be checking on the noid lights tonight & willl try to give that a go. I think he read somewhere that you can use a test light (his has a ground too) and they work. But he didn't go into great detail. So if Autozone doesn't have them or rent them out, we will figure out something to do the test. I will keep posting as we keep going. Hopefully we can figure this out soon! I miss my van! Thanks for your reply! Anytime we have trouble figuring something out, I rely on these sorts of sites a lot! You folks answering questions & helping is very much appreciated!! That is how we found the melted wiring harness! Read another post "somewhere" about a fellow that had tried everything & it ended up being his wiring harness, which looked fine on the outside, but inside was a big melted mess. Ours wasn't a "melty" as his. But bare copper wires were exposed & touching! Anyway, thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

So if Autozone doesn't have them or rent them out, we will figure out something to do the test.

DO NOT try to use a regular light bulb. You will fry the driver in the computer. That's why they make low impedance noid lights.

Response From tobycatt95

Ok... silly question. I told hubby no test light... only noid lights, but how do we test the 4 injector as the cover is off & all of the air/throttle/ect... is removed & unhooked. We have to take that cover off to get to the injectors and the harness connections. My hubby is confused as to how he is supposed to plug in a light & crank the engine with everything taken apart..? Is it possible to do? He is worried that "stuff" will get sucked into "things" if all of that jazz is not hooked up. So currently, we are not testing with any noid light ;-( If you can explain how to do this, we will get it done tonight! Thanks! I have searched & searched to try & find someone online that has checked the injector harness with the car tore apart like ours has to be, but find nothing. Only vehicles that have easier access to the harness wires. Thanks so much!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, this is a test for a fully assembled engine. All you have to access is the injector plug.

Response From tobycatt95

So maybe the noid light test won't work for us... the injectors & the harness connections are all under that plenum cover. So to get to them we have to take off the throttle body, map sensor, air box, etc...

Response From Hammer Time

No, they aren't.


Response From tobycatt95

OMG!! You are so right! The number 4 is going to be difficult to get at... but is sure IS OUTSIDE that dumb cover. We will now be doing that noid light test! THANK YOU!! My hubby is impossible sometimes. This is for sure a "DUH" moment! THANK YOU! Will see if we can get this done tonight & post results! If I haven't said it enough.... THANKS so much!!

Response From Hammer Time

You have to put that cover back on before cranking the engine. Make sure everything is plugged back in.

Response From tobycatt95

Ok... got the test done. We checked the front 3 injector harnesses. 2 & 6 are fine. Number 4 did not light up at all. We did have that melted wire harness issue, so do you think this is still a wire issue or did we damage the computer? Thanks again for your help!

Response From Hammer Time

This is what you have to determine. First step is to determine whether it's power or ground pulse that's missing.

How did you test this if you don't have a noid light?

Didn't you have the engine apart a minute ago?

Response From tobycatt95

we just went to autozone & rented a noid light... and yes, he pulled the plemen cover off so he could unhook the front 3 injector harnesses, put it back together (we are getting pretty fast at this..lol) and we tested. I started the van, he watched the lights. The number 4 injector harness had no light at all!

Response From Hammer Time

These lights are supposed to flash when cranking.

Test to see if you have power on one of the wires on that #4 with the key on.

Response From tobycatt95

Yes, the #2 & the #6 injector harnesses flashed...nice & steady, like I saw on the videos I watched. It was the # 4 harness that did nothing! No light at all. We thought we would just check all front 3 harnesses, since we rented the light & all. And just to make sure that the others were working properly. We keep getting that p0204 code, so we figured it was something with this #4 ... Ok, I will tell hubby to check one of the wires with the key on. I am sure he knows what that means...lol. He is outside, so I will be right back. Can I say thank you again?!?! You are a lifesaver! I may want to buy you a beer when we get this figured out

Response From Hammer Time

The brown/white wire should have power during the first 2 seconds of key on and during cranking.
The brown/tan wire goes to the computer and provides pulsing ground. You have to see which one has the problem and trace it back




Response From tobycatt95

Ok, the brown white wire lights up when cranks & while running, it stays lit actually while running. How should he test the brown/tan wire? His test light has a neg & pos clips... it's a mac test light he said. I just don't want him to blow anything up ;-)

Response From Hammer Time

If the light stays on all the time when running, then the brown/tan wire is shorted to ground somewhere. Your best bet is to disconnect the PCM harness and see if the wire is still grounded. It goes to pin #16 of the C1 connector. That will be the gray/black connector



Response From Discretesignals

If the brown/tan wire was shorted to ground, wouldn't the NOID light stay on all the time? Plus it would have been chugging like a choo choo cause the injector would have been on all the time.

The brown/white wire should have power all the time when the engine is running or during cranking. Cause the PCM is seeing a crank signal and turning on the ASD relay.

Response From Hammer Time

All the time when the engine is running, yes. It doesn't get power unless the engine is running or cranking.

I thought you said t was staying on.

So, because the white/tan wire is steady on, we probably have a short to ground in the brown/tan. How do we test to see if it is still grounded after we pull from the pcm? Do we try to start the van again with that harness unplugged & test the brown/white wire again?

If it's not coming on at all, then the wire is broken somewhere.

Response From tobycatt95

Sorry if I am confusing you all... The brown/white wire does not turn the test light on with the van off. When we crank, the test light comes on for a moment & then goes off until the van is running.... & then when it is running, the test light stays completely on... steady on. Only steady on when the van is running. So we are just confused on how we should be testing the brown/tan wire. Again, we aren't super great at this wiring stuff. We understand the wiring diagram & stuff. We just don't know if we should be using the test light on that ground wire too...? Thanks to everyone!! We would be so lost without you guys!!

Response From Hammer Time

The brown/tan wire should be staying on when the truck is running but the brown/white should be flashing and if it is staying on, it is shorted to ground. Now, I'm assuming you are testing this with the injector unplugged and the light you are talking about is a ground signal. If you are testing this with the injector plugged in, then you are just reading the power from the other wire through the injector and you don't have a ground signal at all and we are back to a broken wire.

Response From tobycatt95

Ok, so the brown/white wire should "pulse" when the van is running. And if we stick that test light onto the brown/tan wire it should stay on? You are assuming the rest correctly! We are testing the connection unplugged, no injector, just harness. And the test light is connected to ground. I will go tell him that it is safe to stick the test light onto the brown/tan ground wire too. And we will just retest everything. We are hoping to see that the brown/tan keeps the test light on while van is running... and the brown/white wire should be pulsing/flashing. If it isn't, we have a short to ground. Hope I got all that correct! ;-0

Response From Hammer Time

I'm sorry, I got that backwards. It's the other way around. Brown/white is the power feed and brown/tan is the pulse.

Response From tobycatt95

Ok... That's ok! I have you all confused...lol! We didn't know if it was ok there at first to test the ground wire with our test light. That is what we were asking in all those questions, I guess. Before we had only tested the brown/white wire, we hadn't even tested the brown/tan ground...

But we just did it. And here is what we have.

Brown/White - Test light on when van running
Brown/Tan - No light at all

Response From Hammer Time

OK, we took the long way around but it looks like that brown/tan wire is broken somewhere between the computer and the injector.

If you can't find the bad spot, you can always cut it at both ends and lay a new wire. Just make sure the connections are soldered and heat shrinked. Hide the wire in the harness casing the best you can. It would be better to find and repair the actual break though.

Response From tobycatt95

OMG!! You are fantastic! Sorry I took you the long way around! I sure do appreciate you hanging in there with me! Wiring is just not his thing. And I don't know anything about it. But with you, look at us go! We are going to find our problem! I have great confidence. Hubby is pulling the harness right now. We will give a good solid inspection & see what we find. We will try to repair the bad spot... that will require my dad again. He is the master solder guy & if we find it, he can fix it up! Will post again when we have news! We will most likely call in a night here pretty soon, but will be back tomorrow! Thanks so much again. And I sure am serious about that beer!

Response From Hammer Time

I'm a long ways from Iowa here in South Florida.

Response From tobycatt95

Morning to everyone. Well, we're in a bit of a pickle here. We ended up running a new wire from the injector 4 harness connection all the way to the pcm (replaced the brown/tan wire) We cleared the codes from computer & started the ole girl up. No change! It is still missing. We ran codes again & now, not only do we have p0204 open injector code, we also have for added fun, the p0206 code. Before, the #6 injector seemed to be working just fine. The noid light flashed in it. When we tested the brown/white wire, it had juice. When we tested the ground wire in #6, it flashed on & off, like it was supposed to. We are confused! My hubby is outside (swearing like a sailor) and checking the olms resistance between the ground wires on all of the injector harness connections. He has unplugged that big 30 pin connector from the computer & each injector harness plug end... all of them read between 0 olms & 0.4 olms. In the earlier posts that I went back & reread, since all of them are under 100k olms, then all of them have a short?! Is that right? Again, I am not skilled at this whole electricity thing... our neighbor was outside & asked about our issues & when we were explaining stuff, he questioned that we should be getting a low reading on the ground wires, beings they aren't hooked up to anything. But not a one of us are what you would call "qualified" at wiring! Ahhh... we are super confused! Why would we have 2 error codes now?! Is the whole wire harness just shot? Is every ground wire having a short - they all read very low olms on the meter when they are not connected to the computer. Or is it a computer issue?! We don't know.... (I was so hopeful! I figured we about had it licked) Btw, that beer will still be coming! You have a paypal account? I'll send you enough for a case!!! ;-) Thanks for fumbling through with us! What a chore this is! Do we need to start testing all over again? Where do we go from here?! THANKS!!!!

Response From Hammer Time

I'm suspecting he may have cut the wrong wire and killed a second injector instead of fixing one.

It's always possible the injector driver in the computer is burned out but that is highly unlikely. My money is on thew wrong wire got cut at the computer. Did you use an ohmeter to verify continuity?

Response From tobycatt95

I will go get him... He & dad replaced the brown/tan wire connected to pin 16 (I think) on that big plug to the computer. I will have him make sure that is the correct wire. It should be, right?! And I do believe he tested with the olms. He is getting low readings, I think. Let me go talk to my swearing sailor & I will get right back with you! Thanks Hammer Time! I hope we did something stupid & it won't be so bad to fix!

Response From tobycatt95

Ok, he double checked & showed me that the brown/tan wire going into the pin 16 area is the one they spliced in. And because we just got so excited to try it out, we didn't check it before putting it all back together... dumb probably! Because we are only getting a 0.4 reading on the olms meter now. Which means that it is still shorted out?! He is testing that brown/violet wire too, that is the ground wire in #6. And we think it goes to pin 14 on that big pcm connector. We get 0 olms there! 0! The meter doesn't even bounce around or anything... nothing! When they replaced the brown/tan wire, they left about an inch or better on each end, enough to rewire again if necessary. Could it be that the wire is bad somehow in each of the little ends that weren't replaced? Or can they be "Bad" inside the actual connector ends? Like, up inside the big connector part that clips to the computer and/or the injector plug? And why wouldn't we get any reading from the #6 ground wire? Before when we had it all hooked up & tested it, it was flashing away with that noid light. Of course, to test that again, we would have to put it back together & rent that noid light again... which we could do! Or... Would the brown/tan ground wire somehow NOT be the brown/tan wire at pin 16 on the pcm side? It has to be right? We are getting a small reading though that (small indicates a short) So if he only cut & replaced 1 wire, it didn't fix the "issue" and actually CAUSED another injector to be dead... oh my, this is where things get all jumbled up in my non-electrical head! I just can't "see" it, ya know. I am so visual! Does any of this help??

Response From Hammer Time

I'm not there. I can't tell you what went wrong but obviously something did. You created a new problem by replacing an existing wire so it's pretty apparent something else happened in the process. He needs to go back and check everything and make sure he didn't break any more wires or damage any pins in the plug..

When you are testing for continuity on a wire, very low resistance is what you are looking for. Just make sure it's not connected to anything when you are testing it.

Response From tobycatt95

Boy do I wish you were here...lol! We just rewired all of the grounds on every injector. We even redid the original #4 ground wire too. Now we are back to just a code p0204 - injector 4 open. Hubby did the olms test on them & they all test low olms, which would indicate there is still a short. Every one tests low. Like 0.4 & 0.5. That is with the big 30 pin connector unplugged & the injector harness unplugged. Just from one end of the wire to the other... really. When he does the "sound" signal for continuity, they all beep too. So maybe we just SUCK at sticking wires back together?! We will probably do all the tests again... noid light, olms tests, etc... Or We can get a used harness at the junk yard for about 100 bucks. But who knows if that will be any good. Maybe the inside will be just like ours was... And we aren't going to be able to afford a new one until we save up for a bit. So, don't know what we are going to do for now. I sure do appreciate your help though! I wish something we were doing would just work already! Maybe it will be a month long project of us rewiring the whole thing! Everything! I don't know... something is still not right with one of them. If they are all shorted out, even after we just ran new wires for each of them, would there be like one major wire that could cause the whole thing to short out? Or does it mean that each wire is shorted individually? We are such nerds about this. Thanks for your help! Sorry to keep asking you crazy questions... And thanks so much for your time! It is priceless to me!

Response From Hammer Time

You probably need to check for injector pulse at the wire coming out of the computer and make sure the computer is good.

You must have a real mess there now if you have cut every one of those wires.

Response From tobycatt95

Well, it's not as bad as you would think.. ;-) But yes, it is a sight! I ordered some of that titanium header tape on ebay - rated to like 1800 degrees F, so that if we do ever get things figured out, we can wrap things up nice & safe inside that heat resistant stuff! So to check injector pulse, do we cut the wire again & with the 30 pin connector plugged into the pcm AND the van running, test that cut wire coming out of the pcm (brown/tan ground wire) with our test light (connected to positive)? Is that how we would do that?

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, you got it

Response From tobycatt95

Ok then... I got something ;-) I will see if I can coax my hubby back outside to do this. He is calmed down a bit now..lol! We just have to stay positive & keep plugging along, I tell him. Eventually, we will do something that helps! Right?! And if not, well, we sure are learning! No matter is it's learning what TO do or what NOT to do... it's all learning. I'll be back! Thanks!!

Response From tobycatt95

Ok, talked him into it. We snipped the #4 injector ground wire right close to the computer. We hooked that test light up (to positive) and we turned the van on. When we apply the test light to the wire coming out from the pcm, the test light comes on and stays lit. No blinking. No pulsing. Just stays lit.

Response From Hammer Time

You can't just say it comes on. You light sees either power or ground. Which is it seeing? Make sure the injector is unplugged when you do this.

Response From tobycatt95

The injector is unplugged. The ground wire is cut right out from the pcm. How do I tell again...What my test light is seeing? I am sure you have explained it already, but I am not good at this... When we touch the test light to the cut wire, hanging out of the 30 pin connector at the computer/pcm, the test light inside comes on & stays lit.

Response From Hammer Time

I'm not sure what to tell you here. You keep giving me different symptoms. We started with no ground signal at all on that wire and now you are telling me it's constant ground. I can't make any sense of your testing. What you're telling me now indicates a shorted driver in the computer but that is totally different from where we started out so I have real doubts about your testing at this point.

You really need to make sure you are right about which wires you are testing.

Response From tobycatt95

I'm sure it is exhausting to try & explain this stuff, which is probably pretty easy & common sense to most. I applaud your efforts to try & explain to me what to try. All I know is that when we had those noid lights hooked up, we got no light at all when we tested the #4 injector harness. And then after that, we tried to test the brown/white wire for power inside that #4 connection & the brown/tan wire for pulse ground. I think at first, we had the test light hooked up to negative when we were testing the ground pulse, which didn't work at all! I think I confused you all when I was telling you about our "steady on" test light... We hadn't even tested the ground wire yet. And when we finally did, we did it wrong. We left the test light hooked up to the negative. When we started researching a bit, we saw that we should be hooked up to positive with our test light, not negative, when we are testing the ground/pulse wire. See how not smart we are?! I don't know if I posted that to you - as far as you knew, we had no light (broken wire) -- but you had stated earlier in the posts that if our brown/tan ground wire stayed lit, it was a short to ground somewhere between the pcm & the injector harness clip. I figured since the light stayed lit when we retested it, it was still a short to ground. I figured either way, we are hunting down a broken wire or a shorted wire... so we just replaced the wire. Then we got that #6 error code too. Along with the #4. And we got flustered. So we replaced all the ground wires. Now we are just back to the 204 code - open injector. When you told us to recheck the pulse coming from the computer, we just snipped the wire & tested, we didn't unhook the actual little plug from the injector the first time - and the light stayed on. You said, it can't just say on, it has to read ground or power... and we didn't understand that. But you said to be sure that injector is unplugged... So we unplugged the injector & got the same results. The test light comes on & stays on. No Blinking. And the test light was connected to the positive terminal. We are thinking that if the computer isn't sending the signal to pulse, that is probably our problem. I think we have all the wires correct. And I think when I explain things to you (in my girly fashion) that I confuse you & don't exactly know "how" to say things. So I apologize! I was trying to explain the best I could. And you are a champ for trying to explain to me HOW to do all of this! I think we will go ahead & order a computer. They have them on ebay & can program them for us, so all we need to do when it gets here is "plug it in".... hopefully! Whew, what a mess this whole thing is! And I really do thank you so much for your knowledge & time! I know it sucks to try & explain stuff to a newbie! Especially when that newbie has NO CLUE about wires! I will post again when we get the computer to let you know if that was it. Or if it wasn't it. And if it ISN'T it... I may just shoot myself in the foot & call it a day ;-) Thanks Hammer Time! That beer is still very deserved!

Response From Hammer Time

According to your last test, that would be the right thing to do. I just hope you are right. I hate seeing computers changed for no reason.

Response From tobycatt95

Well folks, we finally got the van pcm last night (We ordered that plug & play online for much cheaper than buying a new one) Hubby hooked it up, started the van & WhaaLaa! The van is purring like a kitten! That was the problem. All those open exposed wires must have fried the pcm! And we would have never figured that out without your help! I am so grateful to you folks! It was wonderful to have someone walk us through, step by step, exactly what to do & how to do it! Thank you so much for your time & your patience! We plan to drive it today about 20 miles, out to my dad's house, just to be sure everything is running right as rain! But we putzed around town last night & everything seemed to be working just fine!!! YEA!! Anyway, just wanted to update & let you all know! THANKS A MILLION!! If I make it to Florida Hammer Time, the drinks are on us! Lol... You saved us SO much money!! THANK YOU!!!

Response From Hammer Time

Wow, that's great news. I think you are right about the bare wires frying the driver so make sure you repaired them all good.

I'm going to close this now as solved. If you need it reopened just ask any Mod.

Response From Hammer Time

Never mind, I see you hooked it up to positive. This is different from what you started with, assuming the injector was unplugged.

Response From Discretesignals

By the time you mail that beer to him, it will be warm...LOL

Response From tobycatt95

I am sorry to keep asking silly questions, wiring is obviously NOT our strong suit. So, because the white/tan wire is steady on, we probably have a short to ground in the brown/tan. How do we test to see if it is still grounded after we pull from the pcm? Do we try to start the van again with that harness unplugged & test the brown/white wire again? Or...? We don't know how to test the ground. I am sorry... we get confused!

Response From tobycatt95

Ok, just showed my hubby... he said yes they are. So he is taking me out to look at them right now. I will be right back! I sure hope you are right!! ;-)