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I have started a job which requires a lot of night time driving. I want to install some driving lights on my 2000 altima se. I want them to turn on and off with the high beams. I was going to tap into the hot wire from the highs but was worried that it may draw too much power for either the wires or the 15a mini fuse. Will that be a problem? Any other suggestions?
I agree with Tom that there are a lot of options out there for a simple bright-lights bulb replacement. This is especially true since you prefer that they work in conjunction with your high beams, rather than a supplement to your low beams.
I also agree that LED solutions will not draw much current-just not sure if you'll find ready replacements for your brights.
Remember one thing about brighter halogen lamp replacements-they typically operate at higher temperatures and suffer from shorter life. I've seen more than one lamp housing sporting a melted reflective surface rolling around in the bottom of the assembly.
Have any of you tried any of these replacement bulbs? Any feedback as to their effectiveness?
I have a set of focus beam led driving lights on my truck .They are small (about the size of a tennis ball),easy to mount ,mine are under bumper . I have seen some mounted in air dam. They have a bright pencil beam . I wired mine with a relay and a rocker switch so that I can use as needed. They work great in fog , they go under the fog with low beams on . On open road they shine past high beams . In rain I turn off because they reflect off wet road into oncoming traffic . Also off when in heavy traffic , unlike some nerds that seem to enjoy having blinded drivers coming at them head on.
Your car your call. I'd sooner try exact fit higher power bulbs for the OE lights. I've done that and if totally compatible with the car's electrical which they usually claim they are great!
If you do choose extra lights I'd try to find ones with low amp draw. More and more LED stuff out there that uses no amps vs regular bulbs. Watch out where you place them as if too low it's easy to bust them on certain roads or parking situations with those parking bumpers they use here - may not where you are,
I agree with the old guy. The old style halogen jillion candle power driving lights sucked up lots of amps , got very hot and were prone to burnout. As Tom stated LED'S are the way to go. Very low amp draw , very bright white light and they will outlast the car payments. Many imports had driving lights as an option . Some came pre wired for this ,with a blank fuse outlet and relay socket. Some even had a spot in the air dam for mounting .Check your owners manual or dealer parts dept.
2001 Buick Lesabre Limited, 65,000 miles, driven by old lady (really!), air shocks, no damage, nothing Loose. Problem: When hitting a bump or pothole, rear and pitches sharply sideways. Had it up on hoist, nothing loose or damaged. Wheel bearings tight. Front end seems to be aligned OK, steering wheel is centered, car does not pull to the side. When rear end bounced manually, both sides seem to bounce equally and level but when hitting a pothole or bump, rear end pitches sideways...enough to be dangerous, especially on slick roads. Kelly tires. Any ideas? Thanks, Muggs
Not sure if this will be helpful at all...but I have noticed this to a degree with the exact same model that my girlfriend has which I drive somewhat often. It doesn't seem as sharp as you're pointing out here, but it definitely happens. Something with the design perhaps? I'd be interested to know what the issue is if you figure it out.
Thanks, Nate, that's what I think too......its a design problem. Nothing to do but put up with it. Our main car is a Toyota. Its as as sure-footed as a mountain goat so this Buick is an annoyance. Thanks again, Muggs
Haha yeah...it's a smooth ride but when you're driving a car that felt like it was meant to be a boat, this will happen I suppose. I often feel like it should have a rudder instead of a steering wheel.
The problem is solved. The rear shocks seemed to be OK but I replaced them anyway. That seemed to have solved the problem of pitching sidewise on bumps. M
Nate! The one up close is a boat. A 2001 LeSabre is an economy car! I owned a couple of those suckers and three people could stand thru the sun roof! You could move a twin bed made up in the back seat and close the trunk lid on a small car as a spare. Never mind a rudder you needed tug boats to park those suckers but boy were they fun!
Driven many of those...
MAN..those were nice riding cars...especially that "Monster" in the front..
It appeared to just float down the street...
Remember the rubber insulation on all the coil springs...
A buddy of mine had the exact one pictured....used to let me drive it for weeks at a time..
He had several cars...What a great car!!!!
They don't make 'em like that anymore...
Probably one of the few Ford/Lincoln products I liked working on...."Remember the test drive made it all worth it"..When the job itself was rough....
Thanks for the trip down memory lane...
With all due respect Tom/Lincoln guys...
NOW YOUR TALKING....CADILLAC...BABY....
Yea ..MAN, those hoods were heavy...remember when you had to take one off to do engine work...
Definitely needed some helpers..
Owned quite a few land yachts myself..
Remember under the hood of those Eldos...more room than some studio apartments...LOL
Those were the days...and Gm/Ford wonders why they cant sell cars today
Sorry to but in guys....just wondering if these cars can be converted to fuel injection....I owned a few bigems myself, back then gas was .40 a gal.........
Dave: The Caddies used a lot of monster 472 aka "the 501" engines with quadrajets. Fuel injection was in some rare models - they didn't do any better on gas just took out the hassle or the shamless indignity of having to pump the gas pedal once it they would never start.
The 60s had the same monsters that were as big but didn't look so big in the crowd. They also got tons better fuel mileage in the 60 than the 73 (detuned for emissions) cars. Had a 67 and a 68 Caddy that would do close to 20 + without trouble on trips - nothing around town. Those engines had so much power you barely touched the gas to maintain hwy speeds. Some used VR (variable rate) torque converters which was and felt like limitless ratios for power and close to lock up without load!
Today: The best anti-theft control ever is let a theif try to steal a car with a carb - will screw them up every time if they never drove one and don't recall the days
.40 cents a gallon...MAN your young....
I remember it much cheaper than that.
I remember the gas price wars between local gas stations vying for business, gas in the teens,YES teens and they even had give aways like S & H green stamps, dishes,glasses,mugs...etc...
Those were the days....the oil companies have forgotten what made them and what customer service once was..
How 'bout it old timers.....
I recall the "gas wars" in town (1960s) one station against the other - 17.9cents (they always wanted that .9 cent) - always something free with a fill up too. Was working at Mobil when gas first crossed the one dollar line and we had to post the real price on a card but didn't have the spot for a whole dollar and the pumps couldn't be adjusted so we had to just set them for half and double the charge till new pumps were installed.
Regualar gas was 93 octane and high test was 98 or better! Sunoco used to sell 105 octane. Now we think 92 is the "super" gasoline! "Unleaded was called "white gas" or "marine" gas that only Amoco sold here for Winter storage or gasoline heaters. Lead (tetraethyl) in gas would congeal pretty quickly and make a jelly at the top of a gas can if left too long!
Also - "self serve" WHAT WAS THAT?? ------- And find where the gas cap was on all those cars - some hidden behind tail lights on the fins!
Yes..I remember it being as low as 15.9 cents per gallon in the sixties as well...."Fill 'er up with ethyl"
And for that price,you got the windows (all) cleaned,including h/lights,fluids checked,tires checked,(air was free) everything under the hood checked,and and and you got to use the "clean" washroom....try even finding a washroon at a gas station today...
Standard Oil slogan.."As you travel ,ask us".......I dare you,ask them today...LOL....
Remember working at the stations during the supposed "gas shortage" in the early seventies...
Gas shot up to .40.9 cents a gal.....we had to allocate what people could purchase..some days 10 gallons,some days $5.00...
People were livid with us..$4.10 for 10 gallons...highway robbery...
We had lines more than a mile waiting...problem was...when we met the quota for the day,we had to cut them off....(were allowed only so many gallons for the month)had to cut off to stretch it to stay open all month...
Poor people had waited hours and got cut off....if the tires didn't make it onto the driveway...last car on...next one ..cut off.
We had guns pulled on us,threatened with physical violence...actual fist fights..got to the point ,we had to have the police there at cut off time...
I was the only one who had a full tank thru all that...LOL...locking gas caps became a big thing then..folks were stealing gas big time..
Yea Tom..at $1.00..remember people said thats it,they were going to stop driving...LOL
Remember before SElf serve...the "mini serve attempt...we pumped the gas but nothing else...little cheaper...
Those were the days...
Let's start a new thread - I'll call it "Gas Station Memories" in the "open posting" spot. Let's see if we can dig up some neat old pics - the cars, gas wars, gasoline brand name changes, marketing - fun stuff.....
WOW Tom...I can't believe the size of those cars...I thought crown vics were big. I wish I lived in a different climate, I'd just stick to my damn motorcycles (no offense to you fine car folks) and just have a beater pick up truck to haul crap around in.
And maybe I'd buy a kayak/corolla too : )
I have a 1989 Grand Prix 3.1 no start condition .I have no injector pulse but voltage at the injector on both sides like it should since it is wired in parallel.The unit will run on carb cleaner .We have 40 psi fuel pressure,a crank signal, correct TPS voltage,no noid light activation.I have run down the ALLdata trouble tree as they suggest .Voltage at the mini harness,power at the module,good grounds,no back feed of voltage from the ECM.I have a 2.5 volt reference from the module to the ECM is this enough ?? Should it be 5 volts as most sensors are.Replaced the Module and the ECM no change.Anybody run into this or any ideas.
Have you checked TPS voltage at closed throttle? A shorted to reference voltage, TPS could put the ECM into a clear flood mode and turn off injector pulse.
Should be around .5 (1/2) volt at closed throttle and 4.5 volts at wide open.
Test this at the signal return wire, at the ECM; it should be a dark blue wire at terminal 15. Not sure witch one of the two connectors; my wiring diagram doesnâ€™t have the connectors labeled for some reason.
Why I say test it at the ECM, is that youâ€™ll also be testing the harness as well for short to power.
Closed throttle TPS is .68 volts and the WOT is 4.68 volts as per my scanner.I'l get back on the voltage at the ECM .Any ideas on the voltage from the module ? Do you think 2.5 volts is enough
The voltage is .6 volts closed throttle and 4.1 volts @ WOT .I tried holding at WOT with a Noid light and no signal either. Do you have pin out voltage for the ecm, alldata does not list for this year. I reallly think I have a open wire somewhere but where is the question.
Iâ€™m not sure what reference voltage youâ€™re talking about?
I have a 2.5 volt reference from the module to the ECM is this enough ?
What color wire. ECM or module pin?
No sorry I donâ€™t have pin out chart for this thing either.
Have you tried disconnecting the wiring harness (close to the manifold) that leads to all the injectors and testing for pulse on the ECM side of the harness?
With the way they designed these things you canâ€™t get to all the injectors to disconnect them, not without pulling the upper plenum. Being bank fired you could have a couple of injector pulling the whole system low?
Have you tried pulsing the injectors manually, with a jumper wire; just to see if they will fire? Again if there is some form of short under the plenum; it may have fried the drivers out of the replacement ECM?
This car doesnâ€™t have an anti-theft system in it like Pass-lock does it; itâ€™s likely to old?
The ECM connector in question with 2.5 volts is connector 430 from the module.I have not disconnected the harness under the plenum.I did check at the mini harness behind the ecm checking for voltage at conector A ,K,E,F then checked the resistance of the injector harness .How do you suggest to fire the injector ? Ground the ECM side of the injector ? And as for the antitheft I don't see one since it is so old.Unless someone added One ? I'll look at it Saturday.Thanks for the help Dan.
Iâ€™m down at the lake for the weekend and donâ€™t have access to my manuals to see what this circuit is. Need high speed internet and all thatâ€™s available along this section of the north shore of lake Erie is dial up. Maybe thereâ€™s a reason they call this village â€œTurkey Pointâ€. LOL
Yea to fire one of the banks of injectors is too momentarily ground the driver side of the harness and I mean momentarily. I usually have a pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail; pressurize the system, fire the injector(s) and compare the pressure loss, difference between the banks.
I never thought of after market security systems; well worth a look. You never know what someone may have added too the system that has long been forgotten or never known about, by this owner of the vehicle?
Hey Dan the puzzle has not been solved.I pulled the upper plenum and verified voltage on circuit 639/839 all good.Checked for continuity at 467/468 all good.Checked resitance of injector .6 ohms all injectors.verified ground at D4,D10.No theft system .I did not test for injector spray due to I know I have power and continuity so what gives I'm stumped .
This is bugging me as well; the system isnâ€™t that complicated?
Can or have you checked for continuity of the injector circuits at terminals D9 and D3 of the ECM connector?
Disconnect the ECM, turn the ignition on, with a test light connected to ground, probe terminals D9 and D3 of the harness. The test light should light on both terminals.
If you have good spark on all three coils, that tells us the ignition module should be ok.
Does the check engine light come on with the ignition in the run position?
Have you tried jumpering terminals A&B of the ALDL and see if the check engine light will flash codes? It should always at least flash a code 12. (No codes) Are there any codes?
Most scan tools will run a diagnostic circuit check that will walk you through a test of commanding the computer to flash code 12; will yours and did the test pass?
Now donâ€™t laugh at this one but reconnect everything other than maybe one injector, so you can attach your noide light. Place the ECM in the palm of one hand and have someone crank the engine for you. With the other hand slap the ECM, with a good firm smack; not enough to dent the case but damn near.
While youâ€™re slapping Fred, watch the noide light or listen if there any sound of a firing of a cylinder.
Believe it or not but GM called this simulating road shock and was considered a viable test. The cold solider on the ECM boards would go open and cause intermittent running issues until the circuit would stay open and stall out the engine.
I did check for power at the D3,D9 with a volt meter and was fine.The check engine light is on with key on I did verify that.I will take another look at it tonight and see if I can get the ECm to flash code 12 and also I want to check the injector resistance I don't think my multimeter was reading correctly at the .6 ohms so I borrowed one from a friend.I'm not sure if my scanner will run that test but I can manually do it.
In regards the slapping trick I forgot about that one .I worked in a dealership in 1980-83 and remember doing that a few times after you mentioned it.I'll get back
Check D3&9 with a test light; the test light will put a small amount of load on the system, where a 10 mega-ohm DVOM will not.
The DVOM will read whatever voltage that is on that circuit without being intrusive to that circuit. A test light requires current flow to light the light; if thereâ€™s high resistance in the circuit, a test light will not light; where a â€œgoodâ€ voltmeter will show system voltage.
Okay we be smilin now I got it figured out.I did the test with the test light and both have power at the ECM.I went again and checked my harness resistence and had 4.5 ohms spec is 4-5 ohms with injectors harness connected.I then ohmed each injector and found 1 that was .6 ohms and the rest where 11.5-12 ohms.I disconnected the injectors from the harness and installed the noid light on each connector .BOOM I got power.Checked each one on the rear bank and all flashed the light HUM .Did the same with the front bank all flashed until I connected the injector with .6 ohms .It must be shorted out and must be grounding the common ground in the driver for the other bank.Odd the harness test didn't show a difference compard to the other bank.
So anyway I have'nt installed the injector yet may have an oppurtunity tonight or tomorrow.I really appreciate all your help and will drop in from time to time and see if I can be of any help. Eric
Good stuff, let us know the end resault.
Not sure what to suggest, other then possibly one of the replacement parts were defective? It wouldnâ€™t be the first time finding a defective module right out of the box?
I drove though what appeared to be a puddle,ended up being a small lake.Now i hear a knocking sound coming from the engine,car sounds like a tractor! Plus there were rocks in the mini-lake and they had contact with the underside of the car. The oil seems to be ok,correct level,no water but the sound from the exhaust has changed.Please help!
Engine still runs which is good so far. Now it needs to be totally hoisted to inspect for damage my guess is more from "rocks" than the water so far. Exhaust pipe(s) could be bent, broken or more. Will need to be seen in person to really know,
Another problem,before the water incident,there was a strange and very loud vibrating noise from the exhaust pipe,i think. This would happen any time am idling in traffic and occasionally the idling would change on its own,revving between 500rpm and 1000 rpm. Please help,this was my first car and I have had it for close to 8 years and in my part of the universe mechanics are not known for their honesty especially when dealing with female drivers. Thanks!
Sorry if you have had difficulties from mechanics in your area. Gender should have nothing to do with any of this. Plenty and increasingly females are taking up auto repair as a trade at least around me!
The idling changing BEFORE this should have been taken care of. Likely issue is vacuum leaks, air intake controls. The vibrations noted could be mounts for the engine/transmission or exhaust parts touching body metal parts which they shouldn't.
I have to guess as they don't sell this car where I am but usual layout would be such that exhaust parts run down and under car and must flex some there normally but still not touch anything. Where it flexes is a trouble spot over time without any adverse situation and may have broken there.
This shouldn't be all that hard to determine with some basic checks and seeing it. If you have sustained damage from whatever in the puddle it will not be known as any exact fix from any known ordinary wear and tear so must be seen.
The exhaust parts would have also been hot and sudden shock of water alone could have caused damage.
If you really feel you have trouble with your area shops then ask around for where people go who are happy with assorted service for their vehicles.
Keep trying. This could be what I'm thinking as exhaust issues and items getting hot that shouldn't and might even be dangerous to continue using this car until it's found and fixed. If bad enough and you are insured for damage it may be a claim with insurance. Can't know from here,
Hi. I'm trying to put an accurate amount of air in my tires. Here's my dilemma. I repeatedly tried EIGHT gauges. I had a long pencil gauge read 22, and a round gauge read 32. We can toss those gauges out. That leaves 6. I had 3 gauges read 29, coincidentally all of the round dial variety. The other 3 gauges read 27...2 mini pencil gauges, and the pencil gauge attached to the free air compressor at the gas station. So my dilemma is...which 3 gauges are accurate, and which 3 are 2 pounds off? Quite frustrating, indeed. While we're at it, does anyone know of a dependably accurate gauge on the market? Thanks so much...
Love this question and IMO totally valid. Wish I could give you a one brand answer for what to trust for accuracy but an attempt would be ones I've purchased in blister packs at NAPA have been the closest so far but for a long time now.
Yup - those ones for a buck at the counter are frequently WAY off and it does matter. So, what I've done and still room for error is when my compressor (two screw in gauges on the thing) cuts off and fill a portable air can till they are equal - my portable can with gauge too has a tire valve like fill port also and check it while at what compressor said then mark that pencil type or other gauge as "OK" with a Sharpie marker. Probably going to put a date on it now as well.
After so much use or abuse being dropped, checking air with a tire full of "Flat Fix, Slime, Calcium Chloride (used for weight on some tires) or other) have to wonder what it does to the dang things.
It's going to matter that you get a nice spit free reading on tire valve and I do each twice on larger tires that should read the same. Keep in mind low volume things, bike tires, air shocks can be such low volume that just checking lets some air out vs larger items.
When you get ONE known good one mark it as your best and probably don' use that one except for testing other gauges! Valid point and many are dangerously off. Own tons, one or more in each vehicle and assorted types. I just bet the screw in ones are closest and use those as the standard.
This is another buyer beware thing. Same crap with antifreeze testers BTW also!
When time for new ones I'll buy several and mark bad ones BAD and take those back hoping they wont be resold!
Thanks for the reply, Tom. Very nice of you to help the auto store determine which of their anti-freeze testers are bad. In a perfect world, someone in the supply chain would have already done that.
Yes, I'm in the process now of trying to determine which 3 of my 6 gauges are correct. I would have been inclined to think that the 3 round dial gauges, which were much more expensive, would be the accurate 3. But the 2 cheap pencil gauges match the pencil gauge on the free air compressor at the gas station, so my search is still on.
I have never purchased a screw-on type gauge, so I guess the next one that I purchase will be that type. I suppose in the meantime I can try going to one of those auto parts stores that have free checks for things. Maybe they can check my pressure with a couple different gauges that they deem to be accurate. I will give that a try.
Thanks for your valuable input!
Inexpensive gauges are rarely accurate at all. You'll even be lucky to get the same gauge to give you the same reading twice in a row. I've gone through this for years and the only way I resolved it is a bought an $80 digital gauge that reads in 1/2 pound increments.
The one thing you want to make sure of when you do this is you always check them before the car has been driven and with approximately the same ambient temp. Pressure readings will vary dramatically with temp changes and the only reliable time to check is before the vehicle has been driven that day and when it's parked out of the sun.
This stuff w inaccuracy is totally irritating. It does matter more than ever. Some to many vehicles use exacting pressures front or rears - the spare and so on. I also deal with WET filled 2/3rds so they make gauges just for that if you like parting with $10 for pencil gauge.
Sorry to sound ticked but am. Antifreeze! OMG - you have to know that. Thank you PRESTONE by name brand (tester) you suk! bought several knowing they'd not all agree and didn't. Measured exact 50/50 and want to see exactly -34 not 10F off either way or lots more off.
Arggh! Price should buy you quality and accuracy but isn't necessarily the sure bet. I default to many agreeing one after the other with the same conditions.
What most folks don't know and add it to your trivia to win a Coke at a bar.
How many pounds/PSI does plain air go up per ea. 10 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature? A. ONE - PSI for each 10F up or down. You notice this most when first cold snap comes thru the dash tires pressure warning go nuts. Tires about all say check when cold and that's why as well.
I'm ticked as this is expected to be a DIY thing and they do that to the stuff! Arrrrrrrrrrr!
Yes Tom, agreed. And that first sudden cold snap is when it's most important. But it's also important on a hot summer day before a long drive, as you don't want to overfill due to an inaccurate reading and then have a blowout.
Hammer Time, excellent advice for those who don't know indeed. Check the pressure on undriven tires that are out of the sun.
I hate the thought of having to spend $80 on an accurate gauge, but we'll also pay in the long run with tires not reaching their full life expectancy with bad readings, so I may just have to invest in one like yours. The digital aspect is nice also, although I'm certainly not convinced that digital necessarily means accurate. Quality will still matter I'm sure. And it may just take an $80 investment to get that.
I'd venture to say a digital tire pressure gauge is going to be the most accurate as long as it is calibrated correctly. Does your vehicle have TPMS and displays tire pressures?
Hi. Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, my car does not, but I would have to agree that a properly calibrated digital gauge would be ideal.
Beat on this once more: Digital isn't always the answer as things that require a battery have a habit of failing just when you need it and don't have another - luck. Just in and don't do car stuff much anymore but sooooo flipping hot took a shot at an A/C check and charge up on a stored Benzo. Air over pavement was 140F (digital thermo) and a digital scale I left in the sun dammit went all nuts being too hot that yet another new battery solved.
IDK - someone gave me a digital tire gauge in a fake leather case. It suks. Takes 3 tries (that exact one) to get any reading as the tip is lousy and spits air out while trying. Can't win.
First test on A/C was a home-made gauge by me to read static pressure with a tire gauge (just hours ago now) such that with an unknown system that might have been full of goo for all I know would only wreck a tire gauge. It read 5 PSI, is empty for A/C just for that info how to proceed with said, an unknown system. Didn't want to wreck VERY costly A/C stuff on one reading.
Back to the topic. YOU are supposed to know it's hot for a tire that it's on and or in the sun as a factor. If driven a lot tires warm up on their own and or pick up road temps. You still want to believe what you buy is telling what you want and asked for a brand and I can't name one that always right the first time, did mention NAPA as they sell them untouched in a package so at least they haven't be played with by anyone or probably sustain being dropped in the package? No clue who makes them whatsoever - not marked,
Have a great day - Tom