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I hit a huge bump the other day and both of my rear shocks locked in the fully extended position. I'm currently riding around with my rear end in the air. Do I need to replace these shocks or are they going to settle back down eventually? It's been one day. I'm and afraid this stiff suspension will cause more damage, but I don't want to pay to fix it if it isn't a big deal.

That must have been one hell of a bump. I've never seen that happen before but I wouldn't get my hopes up of them fixing themselves. It's trashed internally.

how would u guys like to describe the procedures it takes to replace the rear shocks on a 1998 ford windstar van 3.8l northwoods edition. i once in a while tow a 16ft fiberglass boat.i am also wondering what effect load shocks with the spring around them may have on the ride and handling.

Back at this and sorry I was caught up in the site not working more than your initial question. With the layout that did show I would go with air shocks if anything at all for a 16 foot boat trailer with EXTERNAL air bags on the shocks that are manually adjusted like tire pressure. Have a set on an pre-historic car (I never let go) now. They ride ok and with external bag vs internal bag they don't seem as stiff.

Advantage with "air shocks" is you get new shocks and adjustable lift. I've never used shocks with the spring wrapped around shock and worried that I wouldn't like the new ride height.

Check and don't know what's available for this is the "Cargo Coil" by Moog which doesn't alter height at all but is progressively stronger when loaded by the design of the metal coil. Those are my favs used on many RWD full size cars of my own and many others who expect to carry lots of stuff and or trailering. Then pick the shock you wish which is separate still.

Do know that any permanant change in ride height should have alignment checked and adjusted for that.

Happy boating!

T

2000 toyota tundra, 4.7L . Steering is very hard, as if pump is out. Replaced pump, serpentine belt , rack and pinion , ball joints, shocks. Someone told me it could be the air bag clock spring in the steering wheel as it makes an unusual clicking noise when turning left or right . And ideas? I'm desperate(and running out of $$$). Thanks

The clock spring should have nothing to do with the power steering system.

You really need a power steering pressure gauge to determine if you have a pump, rack, or line issue.

With the engine running the level in the reservoir should be lower than with the engine off. Some of those reservoirs have a screen inside that can become plugged up and stave the pump for fluid. If the screen is plugged up, that could mean a hose is coming apart internally.

I was jacking up my car today to change the pads and rotors on the passenger side and when I got to a certain point the jack moved a bit (not sure if this is releavant) I finished up the brakes and when I went to lower the car I noticed a bunch of fluid on the drivers side on the ground and running down the back side of the wheel. It loks like the fluid came out with pressuire behind it because of the spray pattern. I am wondering if the fluid released because there was too much pressure being put on that part of the car because the other side was jacked up. I have attached a few pics of the area. Can you tell me what type of fluid it is and what the part involved is called. I wiped up all the fluid and waited a bit and it does not look like it is leaking anymore.

Thanks in advance for any help. The area is at the bottom of the car where the accordian like cover is located and the rusty bolt behind it.

Jeff

The color of the fluid should give you some idea,.....brake fluid is clear to a brownish clear/ powersteering is the same....need to check the brake on that side and the hose too just to be safe, also the shocks /struts can spray if the internal seal has failed.

Skoda Fabia Estate - 2003 - made by Volkswagon, not sure what the equivalent would be in the US

Hello,
I had the front shock absorbers, bushes, rear bump stop and rear light switch replaced and since this work the trunk no longer opens with the central locking, I have to pull the internal lever to open it. The garage have told me the wire needs replacing and that there can be no connection between the work they carried out and this issue. I no absolutely nothing about cars and wondered if anyone could confirm that this is a coincidence or if it is possible the wire was stretched/broken whilst the garage carried out the work.

I have taken the car back to the garage and was charged $75 for them to tell me it was the wire and that it would cost me a further $100 to replace it. I am now wary of going back to them without being forearmed with some knowledge.

I guess what I really want to know is where does the boot release cable go to? I'm assuming it is where the central locking is controlled, but I don't know where that is!

Thank you for any help you can give me,
Debbie

Boot's is to wear on your feetzess

LOL! Hammer have you been drinking?

Thanks HT . I owe you a pint.