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Genuine
1998 Mitsubishi Diamante Engine Mount Genuine

P311-291BFEB    W0133-1613512  New

Qty:
$126.13
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Radiator Side
  • Front - Right
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mitsubishi Diamante
MTC
2002 Mitsubishi Mirage Engine Mount MTC

P311-0F8603C    W0133-1731325  New

Qty:
$18.67
MTC Engine Mount
  • Radiator Side
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2002 - Mitsubishi Mirage Automatic
MTC
2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount 4 Cyl 2.4L MTC

P311-29B5226    W0133-1627213  New

Qty:
$33.86
MTC Engine Mount
  • Firewall Side
  • Rear - Firewall Side
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Manual L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
MTC
2012 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.8L MTC

P311-36A12D1    W0133-1815552  New

Qty:
$190.72
MTC Engine Mount
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Mitsubishi Eclipse V 6 Cyl 3.8L 230 3828
Beck Arnley
2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount - Left 4 Cyl 2.4L Beck Arnley

P311-3F8BB76    104-1726  New

Qty:
$47.76
Beck Arnley Engine Mount  Left
  • TRANSMISSION MOUNT
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Automatic Left L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Westar
2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount - Front Right 4 Cyl 2.4L Westar

P311-1ABF5A2    EM-9184  New

9184 , 1259 , MR272199 , 104-1693 , A4602 , 602-2256

Qty:
$26.76
Westar Engine Mount  Front Right
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Product Attributes:
    • PRODUCT BULLET 1: Designed To Meet Or Exceed Oem Specifications On Quality, Fit, And Function.
    • PRODUCT BULLET 2: Top Quality Components Are Used, & Manufactured To Strict Iso, Qs, & Ts Standard
    • PRODUCT BULLET 3: Vehicle Specific Design, To Include Hydraulic, & Electronic Or Vaccum Controled
  • At Westar, we pride ourselves on giving you top quality mounts at competitive pricing. We use only the highest grade rubber and steel designed specifically for your application, and apply a finish that will not only enhance the appearance of the mount, but will also help to extend the life of the mount.
Brand: Westar
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Front Right L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Westar
2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Westar

P311-2592D80    EM-9161  New

9161 , 604621 , 620-1141 , 104-1790 , 104-1785 , MR272204 , 3918 , 602-1760 , A4621

Qty:
$15.81
Westar Engine Mount  Rear
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Product Attributes:
    • PRODUCT BULLET 1: Designed To Meet Or Exceed Oem Specifications On Quality, Fit, And Function.
    • PRODUCT BULLET 2: Top Quality Components Are Used, & Manufactured To Strict Iso, Qs, & Ts Standard
    • PRODUCT BULLET 3: Vehicle Specific Design, To Include Hydraulic, & Electronic Or Vaccum Controled
  • At Westar, we pride ourselves on giving you top quality mounts at competitive pricing. We use only the highest grade rubber and steel designed specifically for your application, and apply a finish that will not only enhance the appearance of the mount, but will also help to extend the life of the mount.
Brand: Westar
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Automatic Rear L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Westar
2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount - Front 4 Cyl 2.4L Westar

P311-49CF6D9    EM-9160  New

602-1759 , A6699 , 606699 , 9160 , MR333818 , 104-1863 , 3752

Qty:
$13.95
Westar Engine Mount  Front
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Product Attributes:
    • PRODUCT BULLET 1: Designed To Meet Or Exceed Oem Specifications On Quality, Fit, And Function.
    • PRODUCT BULLET 2: Top Quality Components Are Used, & Manufactured To Strict Iso, Qs, & Ts Standard
    • PRODUCT BULLET 3: Vehicle Specific Design, To Include Hydraulic, & Electronic Or Vaccum Controled
  • At Westar, we pride ourselves on giving you top quality mounts at competitive pricing. We use only the highest grade rubber and steel designed specifically for your application, and apply a finish that will not only enhance the appearance of the mount, but will also help to extend the life of the mount.
Brand: Westar
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Automatic Front L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2351
Westar
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Engine Mount - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Westar

P311-5A97E93    EM-9170  New

9170 , A4617 , MR554746 , 602-2247 , MR554541 , 3709 , 104-1850

Qty:
$22.23
Westar Engine Mount  Rear
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Product Attributes:
    • PRODUCT BULLET 1: Designed To Meet Or Exceed Oem Specifications On Quality, Fit, And Function.
    • PRODUCT BULLET 2: Top Quality Components Are Used, & Manufactured To Strict Iso, Qs, & Ts Standard
    • PRODUCT BULLET 3: Vehicle Specific Design, To Include Hydraulic, & Electronic Or Vaccum Controled
  • At Westar, we pride ourselves on giving you top quality mounts at competitive pricing. We use only the highest grade rubber and steel designed specifically for your application, and apply a finish that will not only enhance the appearance of the mount, but will also help to extend the life of the mount.
Brand: Westar
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mitsubishi Lancer Automatic Rear L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2378
Westar
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Engine Mount - Front 4 Cyl 2.0L Westar

P311-23415B3    EM-9181  New

A6647 , 3551 , MR333578 , 104-2105 , 602-2255 , 9181 , MB309486 , MR554244

Qty:
$14.30
Westar Engine Mount  Front
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Product Attributes:
    • PRODUCT BULLET 1: Designed To Meet Or Exceed Oem Specifications On Quality, Fit, And Function.
    • PRODUCT BULLET 2: Top Quality Components Are Used, & Manufactured To Strict Iso, Qs, & Ts Standard
    • PRODUCT BULLET 3: Vehicle Specific Design, To Include Hydraulic, & Electronic Or Vaccum Controled
  • At Westar, we pride ourselves on giving you top quality mounts at competitive pricing. We use only the highest grade rubber and steel designed specifically for your application, and apply a finish that will not only enhance the appearance of the mount, but will also help to extend the life of the mount.
Brand: Westar
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mitsubishi Lancer Naturally Aspirated Front L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1999
Genuine
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount Genuine

P311-2BCB1E2    W0133-1815514  New

Qty:
$107.77
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Cylinder Head Type
1999 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Naturally Aspirated DOHC
MTC
2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.0L MTC

P311-414E70D    W0133-1602470  New

Qty:
$116.02
MTC Engine Mount
  • Front - Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Mitsubishi Eclipse V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
MTC
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine Mount MTC

P311-2DED5D0    W0133-1799915  New

Qty:
$82.21
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: 06/01/1993-
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Prod. Date Range
1993 - Mitsubishi 3000GT Naturally Aspirated Fr:06-01-93
MTC
1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine Mount MTC

P311-2DED5D0    W0133-1799915  New

Qty:
$82.21
MTC Engine Mount
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1996 - Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
MTC
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Engine Mount MTC

P311-2DED5D0    W0133-1799915  New

Qty:
$82.21
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: -09/30/1994
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
1995 - Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder SL To:09-30-94
MTC
2002 Mitsubishi Mirage Engine Mount MTC

P311-4E480E5    W0133-1731324  New

Qty:
$34.00
MTC Engine Mount
  • Left
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2002 - Mitsubishi Mirage Automatic
Genuine
2004 Mitsubishi Diamante Engine Mount Genuine

P311-291BFEB    W0133-1613512  New

Qty:
$126.13
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Radiator Side
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mitsubishi Diamante
MTC
2012 Mitsubishi Galant Engine Mount MTC

P311-0D06BE7    W0133-2075389  New

Qty:
$41.69
MTC Engine Mount
  • Radiator Side
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Mitsubishi Galant
Genuine
2007 Mitsubishi Galant Engine Mount 4 Cyl 2.4L Genuine

P311-34954CC    W0133-1815952  New

Qty:
$262.35
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2006-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mitsubishi Galant L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2378 Fr:07-01-06
Genuine
2012 Mitsubishi Galant Engine Mount Genuine

P311-34954CC    W0133-1815952  New

Qty:
$262.35
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Mitsubishi Galant

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Motor Mount Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

CAR SHAKES WHEN I ACCELLERATE TO 40 MPH

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From maxchr66 on CAR SHAKES WHEN I ACCELLERATE TO 40 MPH

1999 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 215K+ MILES.6 CYL 3.5L ENGINE, AUTO 4 SPEED TRANS. WHEN I ACCELLERATE SLOWLY, AT 40 MPH MY ENGINE/TRANSMISSION SHAKES BAD. MOTOR MOUNTS LOOK GOOD/ NO OBVIOUS DAMAGE. PUT IT ON JACK STANDS. WHEELS SEEM TIGHT, STEERING NOT LOOSE, NO PLAY ON C V JOINTS. PROBLEM NOT SO BAD IF I ACCELLERATE HARD. LET OFF GAS, SHAKING STOPS. ENGINE RUNS A LITTLE ROUGH AT IDLE SPEED, SMOOTHES OUT WHEN ACCEL PEDAL APPLIED (EVEN SLIGHTLY). I'm MORE OF AN OLD SCHOOL MECHANIC. NOT MUCH EXPERIENCE W/ FRONT WHEEL DRIVE.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Assuming this isn't an engine misfire under load, inner C/V joints binding will give you that exact symptom.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's enough miles for anything. If not running smooth at idle it's probably not smooth accelerating either so you feel it. Motor mounts could make it feel worse. Check those and if bad it can allow exhaust parts to touch body and feel horrible.
CV joints don't check for "play" as if they had any they'd bust right away - they crackle usually on turns no like checking a U-Joint by hand.


Any engine even 1999 that isn't running well should be setting codes so get those read and post #s. It can store codes even if an light is not on and about has to have one or more to assist,


T

car shaking vibrating and noise between 45 and 50 mph

Showing 4 out of 17 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From mrronaldo on car shaking vibrating and noise between 45 and 50 mph

hey guys , after i drive my car like 15 minute it start shaking and vibrating between 45 and 50 mph , if i stop push gas and go down 45 it will be good and if i go over 50 like 60 and up is good and no shaking or vibration.
i changed 4 tires , i did alignment balance ,and i changed motor mounts and the transmission mount too , but it still same problem i got tired .
i cant understand .because when i start drive the car nothing happens but after 15 minute the problem coming inly in 45 to 50 mph ,
one friend he told me maybe i need to change the transmission fluid and the filter , cause the car dont shake in the beginning of driving and in a specific speed , im waiting your answer , thank you

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The first answer is a question - What the heck is this vehicle?


Type of problem is consistent with a binding/worn driveline joint either u-joint or CV joint but several other possible reasons too none involve changing trans fluid for this so far IMO,


T

Response From mrronaldo

It's mitsubishi gallant 2000 4cl

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can be hard to check while in car but 1/2 shafts could do that and include two CV joints each in front.


Other that might wait is a dragging brake. Just have to feel for a warm/hot wheel if not pulling probably if so a rear or dragging parking brake. If no warmth felt just have to take wheels off and really check. Each axle should have even wear on brake linings. Strong clue if one side is worn differently than the other.


That can wait to cause a vibration till warm. Front issues usually pull to one side when applying brakes rears generally do not,


T

Response From gsferraro

If your driving and feel the vibration, if you release the gas does it go away? Gary

Response From mrronaldo

When I go up than 50 mph or down than 40, no more vibration or shaking

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think we are (Gary and I) are thinking same issue. CV or not used u-joints can get "happy" spot at a certain load if taken apart you see the flaw or feel it in a 1/2 shaft.
You've done motor mounts which would be on the list for the complaint IMO. Balance, tires and alignment probably not on the list for the complaint if LOAD aggravates it or makes it go away.
You can add load with throttle request or a road with a hill same speed going up or down maybe drag brakes a bit as needed to find if load (makes the joints have to turn at a new angle) does this then replace as discovered which one(s) is the idea,


T

Response From mrronaldo

Thank you my friends, when it start shaking and vibrating it start from the left side feel like start moving from left to the right, and if someone with Me in the passenger site it shake and vibrating more and more, when I took last time to the shop they says maybe the tie road end are need to change, but I will go back and I ask them to check the cv and u joins, thank u, if u have more idea tell me plz, thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You probably need another person or shop if they are telling you tie rod ends that you can see so easily it isn't guessing and isn't likely the problem at a certain speed.
The question is how "LOAD" effects this more than the rest of any observations.
It's near impossible to know a CV joint while installed has an issue so they come out as does a driveshaft with u-joints if elusive.
These thing bend while delivering power and get a worn dimpled spot until so bad you can see the flaw while in place you have to go by symptoms which you have.
The flaw if a CV joint will or can give some real symptoms but even all apart in your face barely see the problem - you feel it first off car then look if needed to prove it.


Tires, alignment and things done already can make a problem elsewhere feel worse not usually cause it.


IDK - Gary asked you if letting up off the gas changed it when you noticed and you don't answer the questions so no real wonder nobody is finding this. Now a passenger notices it getting worse and that happens as driving all the time yourself a slow progression of a failure like this you may not as much?
You do know that many tests or parts you might replace mean yet another alignment with each? They do and have a justifiable charge for that again and again.


IMO the only reason an "in person" inspection could fail to target this is if it simply didn't do it when tested and test driven. If tech can't leave where they are to feel this happen either with you or not and drive it themselves too I think it's just tossing out guesses at you.


At least get another person or shop to diagnose this or come up with something credible as so far not much is,


T

Response From mrronaldo

hey guys , i got something new . after i took my car to the shop to another guy to check it , he told me the cv joints are good and nothing is wrong with tie road end , he check the balance and the tires everything is good , after that i drive my car its still same problem i went online and i read too much , and im sure now 200 % person thats i have problem with the transmission , how did i know that ? when i drive my car in normally by put my transmission in D when i got to 45 to 50 i feel and i heard the transmission clunk and thud it like hard for it to shift easy , then i did another test i put my transmission in 3 ,and i drive it normally and i go till 45 50 60 and i dont feel or hear nothing , no shaking no vibrating no clunk no thud , i saw one guy had same problem and he resolved it by change filter and transmission fluid, im waiting your solutions guys before i took it to the shop again thank you my friends

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Now ~ 16 year old car if you are first changing transmission fluid (filter as possible) then it might help or expose a well worn transmission sooner if you know that no or any service to it has been done?


What are your choices for gears and enablement of "Overdrive" on this? Just D,3,2,1 or also a button to disable overdrive? You might be feeling what I'll call 'chatter' from torque converter not locking up assertively. Gary is the transmission expert here no questions on that. Know that many or most techs and shops will send out transmission work that might get highly involved as a sub specialty of the trade not often handy to tie up vehicles when not set up for every aspect.
Transmission should have a code reading just because and post #s or seek a trans specialty shop to now take on the diagnosis.
Some warnings of mine, my opinion perhaps only: Watch out for magic in bottle for transmission or any problems. Of 100s of things only a couple really do something desired the rest frequently not only DON'T WORK but are harmful!


Deal with professionals! You've had polar opposite diagnosis on even tie rod ends where there's no room for dispute. One didn't know squat or wasn't honest with you.........


T

Response From mrronaldo

the car has d 3 2 L and no button to disable overdrive , i check the filter looks older i think its never changed it before ,

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - That configuration for gear selection frequently means "D" will enable torque converter lock up of gear "3" when conditions allow and plain "3" will disable it. Process of deduction is that torque converter isn't locking properly or slipping making the objectionable vibration trying to and when off can't.
You'll probably be shocked that this is clearly explained in the owner's manual! There are driving situation when you DO NOT WANT it to lock up also called overdrive. Most with those #s are 3 speed automatics that lock up 3rd feeling like another gear but isn't.


About trans fluid and filters: IMO again as you can argue it. Fluid is an oil with properties to be very detergent, flow fast when cold and not foam plus a lubricant and is an oil based product. It uses bands, clutch packs, bearings, shafts, springs and more stuff to route fluid under pressure to behave as desired than can be mentioned without a tech course in it.
With that also know that fluid HATES heat, greatly hates being low and when original properties wear out new fluid is the answer with the additives intended.


Now strongly IMO and experience if a filter to a trans is in fact full of junk causing a flow problem the trans is plain worn far enough that no tricks do more than buy short time or cause quick total failure meaning an overhaul is the real fix for dependable longer life not tricks.
When you hear changing fluid and filter for a fix and it worked I say it bought time but not dependable for long term just lucky the expense was delayed and can use the vehicle longer.


Trans is a wearing item and has a life. With routine care all along you can make a big difference in plain/ordinary wear not after the fact.


So - a pro shop may retrieve any and all codes, take pressures that it's pumping fluid inside well enough to actuate all it's functions and find a one or two item fix or that it's plain time to rebuild the unit as a whole. Last minute maintenance that should have been a routine all along doesn't undo the problems already done but can make them feel better for a time.


You should as said find a professional tech for help specializing in transmissions. Other professional techs are supposed to know the other sub trades but also already said can't tie up room or have ready specialty tools for all of them in one spot,


T

Response From mrronaldo Top Rated Answer

Hey, I took it to one special shop he told me that a transmission problem to put new one it coast $2000
,then I took it to mitsubishi shop in the city, they ask me to bring it next Tuesday to flush transmission, it coast $ 172, and after that they will see, really I'm so confusing, I'm waiting your ideas,
I don't wanna sale it like that for someone with this problem,

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh boy! Is that all you got from first place is just rebuild it with no other ideas - not so comprehensive to just redo every complaint that comes their way!
The dealer at least said "After they see it" so more encouraging IMO. That sounds more like it to me not because of price but they want to see it. Sites just can't compete with having the vehicle issue right in front of them - I suggest that and stop at your request if or what they find that changes the costs if anything.
*****************************************
Just some of my thoughts and experiences with known automatics since forever on vehicles known from new and a good guess of how driven and any service or tons of care:


It's a wearing item, a hydraulic machine if you will with electrical and mechanical operation all thru them.
The key question is how long does one really last? The answer is still difficult. I've seen cared for ones plain wear out just about 70K on them and other cared for ones go well over 200K which IMO is full life and good luck.
Throw in heat, abusive driving habits and the type of miles and time it's experienced some you can't help. Stop and go is harder, extreme temperatures and the type of driving you routinely do. Abuse can wreck anything so on your own with that crap. Pulling trailers IMO this is the wrong vehicle.


So - At certain miles and known condition you can expect to overhaul one if you keep it long enough. Used cars you may not have a clue.


You can also throw in plain bad luck or a poor design now and then. All that just IMO over mega years and assorted vehicles.


*** > See what the dealer fluid change and check out. Just sounds better to me than the just do it all up quote.


Good luck,


T

Response From mrronaldo

problem resolved , i took it to Mitsubishi shop ,they changed the transmission fluid,and the filter , now its working good ,thank you

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for the follow up and fix. Will close out as solved and you can ask any moderator to reopen this as needed,


T

2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE - Suspension overhaul

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From vkdc on 2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE - Suspension overhaul

Hi everyone,

Let me start by saying I know very little about cars, and thank everyone in advance for any advice you can provide on this issue.

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE, 2.4L, with 78,000 miles. I recently noticed a clanking noise coming from under the car, and felt the car wobbling a bit as we drove, and so I took it into my local mechanic to be checked out.

After inspecting the car he informed me that the following items need repair:
-Ball joint - both front lower ball joint loose
-Control arm – both front lower control arm loose
-Both outer tie rod end loose
-Front wheel alignment
-Both front sway bar end link loose
-Both front sway bar brushing loose
-Front strut weak
-Rear strut weak
-Front engine mount loose
-Rear engine mount loose
-He also recommended I replace the tires which have been damaged by the faulty suspension.

The quote for all of this (excluding tires which I would have replaced elsewhere) comes to $2,485, the bulk of which is for repairing/replacing the ball joint, control arm, and front/rear struts. Frankly, this is more than I want to spend to repair a 13 year old car, so I asked him if there was anything here I could get away without repairing for now – ie what would be the minimum amount of work I can do to keep the car safely running? He indicated that I'd need to have it all repaired, but his english is pretty bad so I'm not sure he fully understood the question.

So, I have a few questions 1) does this quote seem reasonable/worth it? 2) is there anything here I can potentially get away with leaving unaddressed for awhile? I'm guessing that these things are all related and so repairing only a few of them may not be practical. It would be a shame to give up on a car with only 78,000 miles but it's equally scary to invest $2500 into car that even in good shape blue books for maybe $2000.

Thanks again for any thoughts.

-vkdc

Response From Tom Greenleaf

78k and all that stuff! Was this used in an Evil Kenevil canyon jump or something?

Second opinion time IMO. Most of the descriptions should be either broken or worn not "loose."

That and you still need tires?

Seriously, if you have vehicle inspections where you are who the heck has missed all that as I can't believe it all went at once? Maybe it is all bad and if so, nice looking low mile car even old I'd trade out of that one for that cost but have another opinion in writing as that's a lot all at once,

T

Response From vkdc

Haha, no I haven't been jumping canyons (yet), but my city is pot hole central, so maybe that has had an effect.

It did seem odd that so much went wrong at the same time, so I'll bring it into another shop to have them take a look.

Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ya - I was a little off the wall with that comment. Perhaps it was a record school bus jump instead - Ha.

Just hard to belie all that all at once and I hear you with pot hole central. Holy crap around where I am, I think there are lost cars in some of the pot holes! That will wreck stuff too if you hit them or can't avoid them.

Some on that list like front + rear motor mounts you should have been complaining about and they would normally be described as "loose" but rather BROKEN.

At that cost you just need another look by another uninvolved place totally. If all that was that bad you really should be driving it - your call as I'm not so sure on all that. A noise could be a ton of assorted things??

If it really does need quite a bit like that and you really like the car in general and condition otherwise take the book values with a grain of salt at those ages as it's hard to find used cars if so that don't need something either or a lot OR go new, or top shelf used with awesome warranty.

Good luck,

T

Response From vkdc

Sounds good. Thanks again. I have an appointment with another mechanic tomorrow to get a second opinion.

If it really needs $2500 in repairs, we're leaning towards using that money as a down payment on a new car. Something cheap and reliable like a Honda Fit. Since the Mitsu is a 13 year old car, I'd rather not invest $2500 in the suspension only to worry that the transmission may fail next month :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Personally not worried about it's age a bit. Just that quite a list of parts you were told and I suppose real lousy roads could speed up the issues fast. For the items you listed , some are not that expensive some get up there it's the total vs making a change before you do it all if you are ready now. It won't be worth that $2,500 more . Duh

we need cars. Book values are mere guesses after a few years IMO. Things can go wrong by surprise in anything new or not just the odds are better with newer.

I really think it's money well spent to decide on fixing and bailing out.

Don't let on the prior estimate, rather just ask for a complete check of steering and suspension items and check those motor mounts that could go without notice and see what happens.

Good luck,

T

Response From vkdc

The second opinion is in. The second mechanic says...

The reason the car is swaying and wobbling is because the tires are worn and one is warped. They need to be replaced.

The noises are because the right axel and strut mount need to be replaced.

The Stabalizer bar bushing needs to be replaced. The noise we hear is because the engine is tilting.

Without tires he estimates $678. That's a lot less than $2500!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Well............... That second opinion was worth it! If that's credible to you now I'd go for it. Swapping to another car if this one is otherwise OK is expensive by itself with whatever papers and taxes are involved - tons here, MA.

Tires are a cost of driving. A wheel if needed can either be fixed or probably a good used one - ask. Don't put a good new tire on a bad wheel.

Things are looking up,

T

Response From vkdc

Thanks again. Good advice. Feeling much better about repairing the car, and getting a few more years out of it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd fix it unless you are hell bent on something new. Now you can go back to CANYON jumping

Let us know how it all works out. Mods let thread be till this is all good again please,

T

94 eclipse -- engine light, rattling, rough idle, idles to 0 and dies when a/c is turned up

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Question From Guest on 94 eclipse -- engine light, rattling, rough idle, idles to 0 and dies when a/c is turned up

I have a 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 110,000 miles on it, manual transmission. It ran pretty nicely for a while but then I drove from Phoenix to Kansas City and back. Ever since, four things have begun happening:

1) The engine light is always on.

2) The engine or something near it rattles loudly when the car is running.

3) The car normally idles at around 1100rpm but it periodically (once every two or three seconds) drops 200-300 rpm when I'm sitting at the stop light. Doesn't matter if I'm in nuetral or not, it always does it so long as I don't have my foot on the gas.

It's not so bad when the A/C is off, but for each notch I turn the A/C up the idle dips lower, and if I have the A/C on full-blown, it drops all the way and dies instantly every single time I take my foot off the gas. This is a big problem since I live in Phoenix!

It seems like the problem is worse when it's really hot outside (like 95 degrees plus, and this is separate from the A/C issue), but I could just be imagining things.

4) It seems to sometimes be leaking something -- not enough that you'd notice it happening, but I'll notice wet stains beneath the car on the driveway if I haven't driven it in several days. The car also has started to generally smell like fuel or something.

I know very little about cars, but I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks!

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

These vehicles are a pain (if) they are in need of repairs, Its gonna take a high-tech scanner for the check engine to be diagnose,and for the rattle, loose heat shield/motor mount/muffler and other related parts of the exhaust system...trace the sound and inspect and check the pulleys.The air flow sensor/ or the idle control which is built in the throttle body/or the ecm could be at fault...a diagnostic would help out a lot,the stains under the car might be fuel....oil doesn't evaporate and the presence of fuel odor would suggest that you could have a fuel leak ......the fuel line is located next to the firewall and the filter is mounted there too....if you have a leak just follow your nose and inspect under the car for wetness.

04 Mitsubishi Lancer - Cylinder 4 Misfire

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Question From tjk100 on 04 Mitsubishi Lancer - Cylinder 4 Misfire

Hello, this is my first post here and this problem is a little convoluted so I apologize in advance, but I'll try and keep it simple. A forewarning: I'm a good driver, but I'm terrible with car knowledge. Go easy on me. :)

For starters, I drive a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer, 4-door with a 4-cylinder engine (I don't know the engine size, unfortunately, any advice on how to quickly find that information?), and about 120,000 miles on it, with automatic transmission.

As a quick background, last spring when I had my last inspection I was noted I had failing engine mounts, but that the car should last fine through the summer so long as I got them fixed before winter came back. Well, it's been winter a couple months now and I've been putting off the repair. (was quoted $350, which I can't easily spend right now)

When we started getting heavy snow here, I noticed my car struggling to get in gear while driving. It bumps a bit every now and there's frequent resistance with it getting into gear properly. Never so bad that the car's not driveable, but it slows it down from time to time. It's especially bad when I first turn it on in the morning, often having to floor the gas pedal just to get up to 40. The problem's gotten smoother as the weather's gotten warmer, but it hasn't gone away, either.

When this first started happening, the "Service Engine" light came on. I didn't think to check it out because it would only pop up when the bumpy getting-into-gear problem was occurring, so it seemed to make sense. I was guessing that the engine mounts were the cause of the driving problem and the "Service Engine" light coming on.

Tonight, however, I decided to get the service light checked by an auto parts store to be on the safe side. Their reading said the light was on because of a "Cylinder 4 Misfire" and they gave me 4 probable causes (ignition system fault, fuel system fault, vacuum leak or "engine mechanical condition").

I hope it doesn't sound like I'm squeezing a bunch of problems into one message, because I'm trying to find it if these problems could be related at all. Could my failing engine mounts have caused the cylinder misfire AND be the driving problem I've been experiencing? Or are these all completely separate issues?

I hope this hasn't been confusing, and I'd be happy to provide any extra information for help. Thanks in advance!

Response From MarineGrunt

Sounds like a whole different issue. What were the exact numbers of the trouble codes? There are some professional mechanics on this site and will be around first thing in the morning. They'll want the exact codes in order to help diagnose.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

You have two separate issues here. I'm guessing the code number you got was a P0304. Would be interesting to know if any other ones were present.

This misfire is just on the #4, and with you already mentioning your financial concerns and having to put off repairs, I'm guessing you haven't tuned it up recently either. That would be the first thing I would look at, is the condition of your spark plugs. If they are original they would be starting to fall on their face right about now with 120,000 on them and cold weather which needs a hotter spark to ignite cold fuel. This is a job you could do yourself and would be inexpensive to get the plugs at the parts store. Don't think you would be doing yourself any favors by getting the most expensive plugs either, get the exact factory replacement ones for this. Even if right now they are not the issue I can tell you they are about to be. If the cylinder isn't burning its fuel, that raw fuel goes down the exhaust pipe into your catalyst and will wreck it if you neglect this for long. That would cost quite a bit more to repair than the motor mounts you really do need to change.

If you have some basic sockets and wrenches and aren't afraid to get a bit dirty for the sake of saving some cash, We can explain to you how to do this job yourself for the cost of parts. You would need to look at the information we give you and decide for yourself if you have the tooling and ability to then complete these tasks. You don't want to get halfway in and find you are over your head. Then you end up paying a tow truck and it will cost more to have a mechanic put it back together after its been fooled with than it would to have him do the job from start to finish himself.

Think of what resources you have available to you and how handy you are with basic hand tools. Determine your comfort level with it. The spark plugs would be a good icebreaker to decide if you feel up to the task of trying to tackle those mounts. If you neglect a $350 repair long enough, it will cost you a lot more than that when it fails. We all see that happen on a daily basis in this field.

Response From tjk100

Thank you for your reply, sorry for not getting back sooner.

By "two separate issues" I assume you mean the failing engine mounts are one issue, and the cylinder 4 misfire/driving problem are the other issue, correct?

I wanna focus on fixing the cylinder 4 issue first since it seems more urgent. I'd like to get the spark plugs checked and replaced, can you tell me how I might check them out and determine if they need replacing? From there, where can I best learn how to fix them?

I'm okay with learning some basic car maintenance to get the spark plugs fixed, but I think I'll just take it to a mechanic when it comes time for the engine mounts.

Thanks again for your help!

Response From nickwarner


1.6L, 2.0L DOHC, & 2.4L DOHC Engines



Fig. Ignition system component locations-1.6L and 2.0L DOHC engines

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Tag and remove the spark plug wires from the ignition coil by gripping the boot and not the cable.
  3. Detach the electrical connectors for the coil.
  4. Remove the retaining screws and coil from engine.
  5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

1.8L & 2.4L Engines



Fig. Ignition system component locations-1997-00 1.8L engine shown, 1999-00 2.4L engine similar
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Detach the electrical connector(s) for the coil(s).
  3. Remove the spark plug wire(s) to the companion cylinder(s).
  4. Remove the coil retaining bolts and lift the coil from the cylinder head.
  5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.




Fig. Ignition system component locations-1.8L engine shown, 2.4L engine similar
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Detach the electrical connector(s) for the coil(s).
  3. Remove the spark plug wire(s) to the companion cylinder(s).
  4. Remove the coil retaining bolts and lift the coil from the cylinder head.
  5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.


You will want to check the gap of the spark plug. Parts store sell a cheap gapping gauge that is useful for this. Also look for heavy buildup of crud. Some residue is normal. Oily deposits aren't.

Engine mounts are a seperate issue than the misfire, but most like the ones for your car are a bolt-on deal.