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ACM
2009 Mini Cooper HVAC Heater Core ACM

P311-1E171B4    W0133-1829269  New

Qty:
$113.45
ACM HVAC Heater Core
Brand: ACM
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Vehicle
2009 - Mini Cooper
ACM
2007 Mini Cooper HVAC Heater Core ACM

P311-1E171B4    W0133-1829269  New

Qty:
$113.45
ACM HVAC Heater Core
  • See also 64 11 3 422 668 heat core "O" ring installation kit.
Brand: ACM
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2007 - Mini Cooper Hatchback
ACM
2002 Mini Cooper HVAC Heater Core ACM

P311-0BA625B    W0133-1665987  New

Qty:
$102.24
ACM HVAC Heater Core
  • See also 64 11 6 910 914 Mounting Kit
Brand: ACM
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2002 - Mini Cooper
Global Parts
2006 Mini Cooper HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 1.6L Global Parts

P311-42A8522    8231563  New

Qty:
$45.20
Brand: Global Parts
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2006 - Mini Cooper L 1598 98
Spectra
2002 Mini Cooper HVAC Heater Core Spectra

P311-3C96F88    99358  New

Qty:
$65.44
Spectra HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC Heater Core
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium heaters meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Mini Cooper
Spectra
2007 Mini Cooper HVAC Heater Core Spectra

P311-42BCC63    98065  New

Qty:
$60.96
Spectra HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC Heater Core
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium heaters meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Mini Cooper
APDI
2008 Mini Cooper HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-4A078D5    9010499  New

Qty:
$60.40
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC Heater Core
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 1-1/4
    • Core Height (in): 7-3/4
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): Oring
    • Outlet Connection (in): Oring
  • Heater Core - Chrysler
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Mini Cooper N/A

Latest Mini Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

I now hate my truck, 98 f150 heater core replacement AHHHHH

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From stihlman on I now hate my truck, 98 f150 heater core replacement AHHHHH

98 f150
4.6L triton V8
extended cab
4x4 5spd
218k miles

So I've had this 98 f150 (newer body style, they made both styles in 98) for about 6 months now, it's been a good truck. about 3 months ago I noticed a puddle of coolant in the passenger floor board. So I disconected the heater core and ran the line back through itself in the engine compartment until I could get a chance to fix it. I just drove around with no heat.

Here's where the fun began... It's been really cold lately so I finally decided to tackle the job... If anyone ever decides to try this with the same model truck, lite the truck on fire and just walk away... It will be much easier. And don't even think the Chilton manual is going to do you any good... it gives 9 steps, 5 of which are correct for that truck, the other 4 don't make any sense.

In order to get to the heater core, you must take the ENTIRE dash apart. I don't mean just the plastic cover on top. The cover, ducting, airbag, instrument cluster, all the wiring, glovebox, stereo, etc...

Right now I have it torn apart almost all the way in my driveway, and had to finally take a break after 3 hours.

Instead of taking the ducting all the way out, I took all the bolts out holding it in, than moved it out as much as I could. I'm a large person and I just can't see how someone like me can get to the wiring plugs under the dash to disconnect them.

I got to where I could reach the shroud surrounding the heater core and now I'm completely lost...

there is no bolts, no little tabs, and only have of the heater core is exposed... I am not looking forward to puting all this back together if and when I ever get this heater core out and get the new one in.

Anyone have any advice? tips? tricks?

thanks in advance

Response From stihlman

wow, that looked about like my truck earlier today, I took more out than I needed to so I could check for more rodent damage...

UPDATE: I got a good portion of the dash back together, I stopped because it's just too cold and dark, I can only shine a flashlight in so many areas. I want to make sure I can see everything to make sure I don't miss anything. Also, I'm replacing all the lights in the instrument panel and both cigarete lighters... I had a few lights out but i'm gonna replace them all to be thorough... I figured this would be a good time to see why my trip odometer isn't working also, I push the button and it tries to change the numbers but doesn't.

I'm just glad it's not a mercedes. I've had 2, and they are controlled almost entirely by vaccuum... NEVER AGAIN

One problem I'm having is I keep needing to take things back out and take screws out that I put in too soon. One screw is sometimes holding several layers of plastic on at once and I jump the gun puting the screw in too soon.

If this doesn't work than I am just going to wear a coat when I drive it and sell it next summer LOL

Thanks again everyone for your help, tips, and responses.

Response From Discretesignals

It'll work. You gotta have faith. If you get it all together and don't have any screws left, you did a perfect job. If you have 1 or 2 left that is ok too....LOL

Response From Sidom

Yea there is a great little trick, get your MS660 put a carbide chain on it & cut that sucka outta there......

Bad idea? ok...

On those the you do have to roll the dash to get at the box. On any of the newer vehicles there is a common theme, you have fasteners on both sides, top and at the center (some of those can be the trickiest).
On yours you should have modules & switches on the right that need to get disconnected & you'll probably have to take out the passenger airbag (make sure the battery has been disconnected for a while). You can just drop the column & let the seat support it. When it's ready to roll, just roll it a bit so you can disconnect all the lines off the box and take a look and make sure nothing else is "holding" it before you roll it all the way. I just pull out the R side & set it on the passenger seat (put down something to protect the seat, something thick) & use a bungee cord wrapped around the head rest to hold it.
You want to take the box out. Don't try to do this in the truck, you'll regret it. Discharge the a/c & remove the lines, I believe there are 5 studs under the hood that mounts the box, one may be hiding by the accumulator, there should be 3 inside. Take all them off & you'll have to "wiggle" the box to get it out. Then just take off the million bolts holding the top on & CAREFULLY remove the top taking note of the blend doors & what position they are in. This is a great time to inspect the evaparator.

This is important. Before you install the new heater core make SURE the heater hoses slide on to the new core easily. Some aftermarket cores didn't quite get the dimensions right and the hoses don't fit!!!!! (don't ask me how I know this ) If that is the case I would strongly suggest getting a different core......Dealer ones are good......1 800 Radiator has real nice ones with good fits...

Also check the cooling system for electrolysis. Anything over .4v and you will be doing this all over again very soon

I'm sure I've probably forgot something........I always do.......you might wanna check back in a bit........

Response From stihlman

HA, I like that, "MS660 with a carbide chain" Now your talkin my language... I work at a sawshop lol.

Well... I finally found that one hidden screw I was searching for... I got the top cover off, checked the blend door... It looked like someone had already replaced the blend door and damaged the heater core while doing it, and that's what caused the leak. The blend door has the new sleave that goes around the bottom.

The rodent problem is more than likely from the previous owner, this was a fleet truck so it was parked in a shop with leftover lunch on a regular basis. I check for any damage, it looks like they just brought stuff in to make nests. I don't see any chewed up plastic or wiring anywhere. I searched through everything I could get to.

I found a video on youtube from realfixesrealfast the only differences in my truck and the one in the video is mine is a manual and no AC. He made it look easy. lol

So far I have 7 hours into this job and I still have to put everything back together. AHHH I do not like this.. lol

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions!

Response From Sidom

I'll go on record here stating.........I hate dash work!!!!......
The 1st ones really do suck but you would be surprise at how much you can knock your time down after you get a few of them under your belt.

Just make sure you check the hose fit on the new heater core before you install it. It's no fun having everything back together only to find out the hoses don't fit.....

I dunno RT.......you do that & in about 10 or 15 years there might not be any techs anymore...........lmao

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

He had just better be glad it wasn't a late model chrysler mini van . You have to take the freakin side view mirriors off and the console out or at least back a foot or two.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"just light it on fire" Too funny but not - they suk.

Take your time putting everything back together perfectly or you may end up right back in there. Clean heater box up as best you can. Paper towels and window cleaner like Windex. Don't use a cleaner with alcohol for interior as the yuk doesn't just wipe off the first time from glass and any vinyl or plastic and most plastic junk is painted.

I'd pressure test before totally done just in case it leaks - even new.

I know you are not but have fun,

T

Response From stihlman

thanks for the reply, I'll keep that in mind when I put it back together, I found a "surprise" in the dash, it looks like it's been there for several years. either rats or really big mice, they made a nice nest throughout the entire dash, so I do have a LOT of cleaning to do.

I'm still stuck trying to get the heater core out. I've got the top part of the shroud unbolted, but something is keeping it from coming off, I found a stud that went throught the firewall and a nut on the end of it. It is right next to the heater lines coming through. I took the nut off hoping that would free it up, but no luck. I think if I can get the shoud cover off I can get the heater core out. But that may be wishfull thinking.


"Hi, Farmers insurance, I would like to add an excessive amount of coverage to my 13 year old truck, thanks"

"Hi, Farmers insurance, its me again, my truck is on fire, I need a claims adjuster here."

Hmmmmm I wonder how that would work lol...

Response From re-tired

Perhaps we should forward this post to the guy who wants to become a mechanic.

Response From Discretesignals

Here's one we had in the shop a while back on an Olds. GM put some foam around the wiring that turned to sticky dust when touched. I had the shit in my hair and smeared all down my arms and pants. The really funny part was when the customer came in, when it was torn apart, to get something out of the car. His eyes got really big and he looked at me and said, "Better you than me."




Response From Discretesignals

Another tip. When you have the case apart replace the heater blend air door. Done quite a few HVAC cases because the heater blend door socket comes apart where the actuator slides in. Dorman has an updated door that eliminates that problem. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the core with a motorcraft brand also, as Sid mentioned. You don't want to have to go back in again for a cheaply made core that leaks.

Dorman 902207

Response From Hammer Time

Believe it or not, that is one of the easier ones.

There should be about 4 studs with nuts on the engine compartment side to remove the HVAC housing from the truck.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! Get as much out as you can and do look for chewed wiring while in there.

It's archived somewhere at this site ideas on how to stop that. Seems one effective way is not to park in the same spot or position all the time. Others used moth balls, those sonic things that drove a pet bird nuts so no go with that. I use real rat poison in trunk, underhood etc. for a stored car of my own and just hope. No children or pets to get at that stuff.

If all else fails get a good barn cat!

T

93 Chrysler Town & Country Mini Van's heater dosn't put out hot air.

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Dean L S on 93 Chrysler Town & Country Mini Van's heater dosn't put out hot air.

We have a 93 Town & Country Mini Van. A few months ago the heater/air conditioner fan stopped working. At the local high school there is a auto shop who said they could install a new heater fan for the experience of the students. I purchased a new fan and took it in to the school & they installed the fan. Since then the heater hasn't put out hot air only mildly warm air. It makes no difference what position the temperature setting is at the air is only mildly warm, and since it's winter I would like it to be hot air. The high school shop said it's nothing they did. What could the cause this and how can it be fixed.
Thank You
Roger

Response From steve01832

You may have air in the cooling system, low coolant, faulty heater control valve, faulty blend door or cabling, bad thermostat, or a restricted heater core. Can you give us a little more info please?

Steve

Response From Dean L S

Prior to the problem with the heater fan the air conditioner and heater was working fine, the engine temp. and water level was good. Since the new heater fan was installed nothing else has been changed and the engine temp. is running at it's normal range. I did try to turn on the rear heater/ air and cold air came out of the vents not even the warm air that was coming out of the front vents.
Is this of any help?
Roger

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Roger, the next step is to let the engine get to normal operating temperature. Carefully grab the heater hoses one at a time. If they are both hot the problem is in the ducting of the heater module. If one is hot and one is cold, you have a restricted heater core.
2 of the biggest problems I have seen with these vehicles heat is the heater control valves get stuck in the off position and the blend air duct binds up. Check these out and repost with what you find.

Steve

Radiators!

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Dodgegirl94 on Radiators!

Ok, A friend of mine is completely flat broke. She needs mechanical help and she asked me. I know nooottthhinnnnggg about radiators. Nada. Zip. Zilch.

History: About a month ago this friends Mini Van had a MAJOR leak, she took it to the mechanic and he put a water pump in. Recently the leak came back (she didn't tell me when) its only on long drives, and now she wants to try that radiator leak fix...stuff...that you can buy.

Actual reason for this post: What can you tell me about radiators? What do I look for that shows it needs to be replaced? The fins, if they're really worn down, lots of rust? The area of the leak? I've tried googling this but I've seriously come up with absolutely.freaking.nothing.

Second question: My truck started making a winding/humming noise when I put it in reverse. How bad is that?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Type of vehicles and model years would help. Most radiators if the actual leak simply need a new radiator. Forget sealers as that will just cause it to clog and more problems later and still need the new radiator.

If a real old car radiators can be fixed, anything near newer they really can't and not practical vs a new one.

If you know as you said "nothing" about cars and repair why are you taking this on?

One car per thread please. Start another with the other,

T

Response From Dodgegirl94

It's a '97 Plymouth voyager. And I'm taking it on because she has no money and I have the resources. I had helped her before with some problems but I just gave her ideas on where to start. She asked me to help so I'm trying.
I mean it can't really be that hard, right?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Sealer is a very bad idea. All it does is plug up radiators and heater cores and make your problem worse than it already is. Seriously, if she can't afford to repair it correctly, she just needs to park the car until she can. There is no such thing as "Mechanic in a Can". You really should have it diagnose properly first to make sure you are even on the right track with a radiator.

Response From nickwarner

I bought the exact same vehicle for my girl. Last guy dumped that garbage in it. Didn't seal the leak, that had to get fixed anyway, but plugged the heater core up so come winter it could barely defrost the windows. If you think a radiator is expensive, try doing the heater core plus the radiator you need anyway.

A pressure test will reveal the cause of the leak. If the hoses are original or looking rough you will need to replace them as well. They aren't pricey and will save a lot of trouble down the road.

With HT here, never use crap in a can and if you can't afford to fix it you will need to park it until repairs can be made.

By the way, absolutely do not use straight water in the cooling system because antifreeze costs so much more. I could show you a $1400 headgasket job I have in my driveway where straight water ate through it. You could buy a lot of antifreeze for $1400.

Response From Dodgegirl94

Ok! No sealer!!! Yiikkkeeesss!! Why is it still on the market if it's that bad? And I had a good half hour lesson on radiators from a mechanic friend, he backs up the "no sealer" idea. So, I'm looking at hoses, rust, the transistor, and the radiator cap. Thanks everyone for your input!!!

Response From Hammer Time

Yiikkkeeesss!! Why is it still on the market if it's that bad?


Because someone will buy it and someone will make money selling it and that's all it takes.

There is no "USDA" for auto parts and additives.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Especially the large parts outlet chain stores there's a whole isle dedicated to junk that either won't work or be harmful. If it sells they sell it. Buyer beware.

There are a couple snake oil things that can help certain issues all depending on the problem. Cure a problem for a car out of a can/bottle of something - NO! The bad part is many cause a lot of extra problems - that's unfair,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes it could be hard if you are thinking of doing this yourself. First you need to verify that it's bad at all. If you can't plain see it a pressure test should reveal it. You can just check the site of popular parts outlets for what a radiator is worth if it will need it. Factor new antifreeze in also. If sent out parts would be higher than doing it yourself.

The potential problems are getting things out of the way, transmission cooler lines disconnected and sensors swapped. Cooling fan assembly would be moved or removed. I really don't know for the model but some vehicles a radiator will only go out thru the bottom requiring having the vehicle hoisted high enough.

If you must go the sealer way it only has a chance and only use a small amount not the whole container but know if it doesn't work or last (likely) it makes it harder later to do right and more expensive.

Nice of you to help a friend. At least get it diagnosed for sure so you know what you need. Get quotes/estimates on the job. If this thing overheats bad enough which is easy with a leak you could really get into expensive problems,

T

External Heater

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From NAT WHEATLEY on External Heater

I have a 2001 F-150 and the heater is dead. I don't want to put money into replacing the heater. Is there some type of external unit that I can use that plugs into the lighter, hooks up the battery or other? I looked quickly online and saw several, but all had poor reviews in terms of the units not producing much heat.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

I n my experiance I would agree with the reviews you saw. I have tried these types of heaters in the past on a old cluncker and had poor results. It will give you a bit of heat but not the whole cab. Tom may have some good advice here. He is the local A/C and heat expert

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First off -what's wrong with the existing heat?

Any electric 12v heater is VERY limited in possible BTU power - like 1250 max I think - which is diddle or perhaps just 2% of what you really need. I used a handheld one once just to help defrost windows in yard vehicle and it was almost useless.

The trouble is vehicle's exchange so much air all the time you are fighting a lost cause almost. Think of how fast heat is lost when you just shut down a working system - just seconds and cab goes cold again.

Depending on just what is wrong there are a few shortcuts to get some heat with existing system for small bucks.

Let me/us know what wrong with it now and we can suggest from there. Save your $$ on electric ones. Seriously - they can't make any more heat than using a cigarette lighter and you know that won't heat the thing,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tom; My '40 Ford Coupe had an electric heater mounted under the glove box. It was painted the same color as the dash. Still unsure if it was 'OE', but sure looked like it. Of course, it was a 6V system. So many years ago that I don't remember if it had defroster tubing. When I changed to Chev running gear and 12V, I removed it as it took up too much space (It was huge). But, as I remember, it worked quite well, at least for Oregon temps.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey - Loren - we're giving away our "old fartness" here! No problem that 6 or 12 volts COULD do it. The upgrade of alternator and battery alone would outcost just fixing this almost no matter what's wrong with it.

The ones sold now that I've noticed are either volutarily or mandatorily limited to what could be expected power from normal power ports/cig lighters. Kind of like the household electric heaters are limited to just ~5,000 BTU as that's about what a 15 amp circuit could handle without burning up wires and they still do at that.

I had thought of all kinds of tricks like the rear heater box and fan that sits under a seat in busses and large perhaps now older passenger vans - and just wire up the fan to a switch. It all adds up to too much effort and it would be missing "defrost" which here and many places is no luxury - it's needed desperately or you don't drive!

Funny - Just came in from freezin' my keister off putting tire slime in my '48 Tractor as it has a slow leak and is 80% calcium chloride water filled in tire with 250# weights to boot so that wheel ain't coming off too easy for me anyway! Dry weight on that sucker is close to 3 tons without the water and weights! 6V pos ground system would blow most folks minds too! Cool as it's OE electric start but still has the crank hole to do by hand!


Still waiting to hear what's wrong with this truck. If it needs a heater core and all that work is too much for someone than most can be sealed and just zero pressure the cooling system if it's a yard junker it would work. If core is the problem I wouldn't waste time on a used one to save a buck but any other stuff wrong with dash should be in salvage yards and fairly cheap........

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

I had thought about putting a heater in our boat, at one time. Actually would've been quite easy. It was an I/O, and I was going to run heater hoses from the engine (5.0 Chev) to under the jump seats that were on each side of the engine cover, then just add a couple of fans. But, we didn't do much winter skiing. LOL.
Old fart-ness? LMAO! Yeah, those were the days. Had that '40 for 23 years.

Response From Guest

I'm concerned that the system flushing sounds like what he has done each time already. I also can't keep rolling the dice thinking that this time it will fix it for good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This isn't "rolling the dice" ----- when flushing worked, then junk coming out should have been noted - it not then you would question something else alltogether like some funky blend door problem but that doesn't explain to me anyway why it worked from flushing if even for the day or so??

There's more junk in there than is being flushed out is my call from the history so far. I'd bet it's loaded with the sawdust style sealer unless you can be sure it's never been used that's about how that stuff will behave when more than a spoonful is used.

The flush will probably take a solvent to flush not just garden hose and water which would normally suffice. There may be evidence of goo in the recovery tank or under radiator cap - take a look,

T

Response From Guest

Thanks for the replies. I'm not entirely clear what's wrong with the heater(I know nothing about anything under the hood...)I've brought in several times to try to have the issue fixed. Each time the mechanic has said that the heater was clogged, that he unclogged it, changed the antifreeze, etc and its working fine.

It does seem to work fine each time...for about a day. The last time we agreed that this routine wasn't working, and that the heater needed to be replaced. I made an appt, left the truck for the day. When I came back, he hadn't replaced it, but did the same 'unclogging' routine, though he said he did it much more throughly this time (and I'm sure he did, I do actually trust him). The heater worked...for about a day. Its an old truck, and after sinking money into having it serviced each time, I can't drop more money on it at this point to replace the heater. But I am cold...

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

There could be a couple things causing this.

I'll bet first that the system is so full of sealer that it clogs and needs a whole system flush out but beware because if it had a leak somewhere that sealer did seal up it probably will return.

The other thing is to make sure that coolant is staying full. I'm pretty sure the Ford Trucks still use a pressure radiator cap on the radiator and not just a cap on a remote tank which is a "recovery" tank. It needs to be known full at the radiator.

** There are assorted reason it may drop from full there and might show OK at the see thru recovery tank. The condition of the radiator cap itself allows for coolant when it expands to be put to that recovery tank and when it cools (contracts) draws just coolant back to the radiator and hence the whole engine's cooling system including the heater which is part of it.

If that cap is faulty it tosses out the expanded coolant and just draws back air. If it does that a few times the system is actually low and many will quit with the heater first - then later you may have troubles overheating - maybe not.

If there's a gasket (head) problem it could be blowing combustion gasses into cooling system and that won't allow for heater to work same as low coolant level but that would usually blow coolant over the top of that recovery tank and you'd have other complaints.

The heater core is just a mini radiator but it would be the "catch all" for debris in the system and clog early if the case. If there's sealer or plain junk thru the system it just keeps stopping at the heater core. Gotta get all of it out and it should stay working. If just the core is being flushed and that works it indicates there's more junk still in the system to remove.

I'm not judging your mechanic but this should be fairly routine. You said it does work so core isn't clogged with "calcified" junk that won't flush out but rather regular junk that does. Get it all out and it will work is my suggestion.

Again - I'm not there to pass judgement but replacing the heater core right now and leaving junk in system will just clog again.

AgainII: Flush out whole system. Removal of thermostat and radiator hoses - even block plugs (they are like bolts "drain plug like" down low in water jackets) on lower sides of the engine and really flush this thing out and it will last,

T

Response From way2old

Has anyone looked at the blend doors? Or the flow of coolant? Just wondering.

Need help replacing my radiator!

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From sweetbee on Need help replacing my radiator!

My car is a 1999 toyota rav4, engine size 2.0L and mileage 24 city, 29 highway


Hi, so I had to replace my radiator and tried to do it myself with my boyfriend. We first followed the steps here: (Link removed not allowed) to flush the old radiator. But when we got to the step where you're supposed to fill the radiator with 4 gallons of distilled water, we instead just took that radiator out and put in the new one, thinking that we could continue the steps with the new radiator. A friend at my boyfriend's job told him that by not continuing the flush of the old radiator, we've completely screwed everything up and we may as well put a for sale sign on our car. Is this true? We have no idea what to do from here. We don't have any car repair experience. we're just Googling as we go along. Please help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No links please - it was removed. Now you have a new radiator so forget the old one. You should have take that chance to flush the whole system. If "flush" solvent is still in there flush it all out again with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, distilled is nice. Put 1/2 the system's capacity in as pure antifreeze then the rest with the water as all won't come out and you can get lost with the percentages,


T

Response From sweetbee

The person saying we did it wrong said something about how we didn't start the car and let it run or something....

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Not sure I'm following you. What the heck prompted flushing to begin with? Did you put flush product in it and not run it long enough then just replaced the radiator with new? Fine but you need the flush agent out of there that's all so far.


If you don't have a clue on this and it runs, system is full now and not overheating just take it to get the system flushed out now to a shop and be done with it. IT CAN BE DONE WITH THE NEW RADIATOR.


Doesn't seem you knew if it ever needed one. If coolant was showing that much junk heater core (a mini radiator itself) will be trashed and may flush out or not done alone with hoses off of its connections to coolant. DO NOT TRY TO PULL HOSES OF THE CORE ITSELF AS IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU'LL BREAK THE NECKS OFF OR CRACK THEM and that's a job that you are not up to.


Cut your losses and send this to just get flushed and filled again. If whatever problem is still there you may have been barking up the wrong tree from the get go,


T

Response From sweetbee

so just do a flush with the new one instead? That's what I thought I was supposed to do. I don't know what that guy was talking about...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I take it you left flush solvent in the system? So yes - now just take out thermostat (replace if you wish) hoses off radiator, hoses to heater core and flush it all out backwards and forwards till clear. Replace hoses too isn't a bad idea too. This just plain "garden hose" water then let it drain out as much as possible.


Put hoses on, nicer sometimes to start fill at thermostat and put it on then fill making sure NOT AIR is in the system. Some are a real pest to purge out all air. You'll know with running it that heater will not work until air is almost all out.


Just run long enough at first for thermostat to open and wait for a cool down when filling without fancy equipment. Again, can be hard to get all air out.


Check antifreeze concentration after several cycles of warm ups and cool downs when fully mixed that you are close to the 50/50 area which will show -34F check freeze protection level.


If confused hit back and I or someone can help finish filling up this thing properly,


T