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Best Selling Genuine Lincoln Heater Cores

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We stock Heater Core parts for most Lincoln models, including LS, MKS, MKT, MKX, MKZ, Mark LT, Navigator, Town Car.

Motorcraft
1995 Lincoln Continental HVAC Heater Core Motorcraft

P311-4610447    W0133-1616374  New

Qty:
$169.87
Motorcraft HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Lincoln Continental
Vista-Pro
2003 Lincoln Aviator HVAC Heater Core Vista-Pro

P311-12D8A35    W0133-1910110  New

Qty:
$281.95
Vista-Pro HVAC Heater Core
  • For Main Heater Unit
  • NLA - 11/14
Brand: Vista-Pro
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Lincoln Aviator
APDI
1995 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-5B1734C    9010228  New

Qty:
$35.16
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-3/8
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Lincoln Town Car N/A
APDI
2000 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-5B1734C    9010228  New

Qty:
$35.16
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • With 6 inch Wide Core
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-3/8
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Lincoln Town Car N/A
APDI
2002 Lincoln Navigator HVAC Heater Core - Front APDI

P311-192C198    9010025  New

Qty:
$40.38
APDI HVAC Heater Core  Front
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/4
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Lincoln Navigator Front
APDI
2002 Lincoln Blackwood HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-192C198    9010025  New

Qty:
$40.38
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/4
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Lincoln Blackwood N/A
APDI
2001 Lincoln Continental HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-3DF374C    9010253  New

Qty:
$42.23
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Without AC
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-3/8
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Lincoln Continental N/A
APDI
1997 Lincoln Continental HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-3DF374C    9010253  New

Qty:
$42.23
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-3/8
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Lincoln Continental N/A
APDI
2004 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-04C0382    9010452  New

Qty:
$52.29
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 9-1/2
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Lincoln Town Car N/A
APDI
2002 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-21F55A7    9010021  New

Qty:
$36.51
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/8
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Lincoln Town Car N/A
APDI
1998 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-21F55A7    9010021  New

Qty:
$36.51
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • With 7-7/16 inch Wide Core
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/8
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Lincoln Town Car N/A
APDI
2001 Lincoln Continental HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-21F55A7    9010021  New

Qty:
$36.51
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • With AC
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/8
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Lincoln Continental N/A
APDI
1982 Lincoln Continental HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-38A7F20    9010130  New

Qty:
$27.63
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - Lincoln Continental N/A
APDI
1998 Lincoln Navigator HVAC Heater Core - Rear APDI

P311-1DAC65F    9010026  New

Qty:
$45.85
APDI HVAC Heater Core  Rear
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 5-7/8
    • Core Width (in): 6-3/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Lincoln Navigator Rear
APDI
2006 Lincoln Mark LT HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-4CE3628    9010451  New

Qty:
$41.77
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 9-5/8
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2006 - Lincoln Mark LT N/A
APDI
2006 Lincoln Navigator HVAC Heater Core - Front APDI

P311-4CE3628    9010451  New

Qty:
$41.77
APDI HVAC Heater Core  Front
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 9-5/8
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8 Quick Connect
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2006 - Lincoln Navigator Front
APDI
1978 Lincoln Versailles HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-2C6F8DE    9010083  New

Qty:
$48.02
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: V-cell
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 8
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 5/8
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1978 - Lincoln Versailles N/A
APDI
1981 Lincoln Mark VI HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-4089FAF    9010132  New

Qty:
$38.59
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/2
    • Core Width (in): 7-1/8
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1981 - Lincoln Mark VI N/A
APDI
1969 Lincoln Mark III HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-45EA340    9010056  New

Qty:
$58.25
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: V-cell
    • Core Depth (in): 2-1/2
    • Core Height (in): 9-3/4
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1969 - Lincoln Mark III N/A
APDI
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII HVAC Heater Core - N/A APDI

P311-0E3F5C1    9010245  New

Qty:
$30.31
APDI HVAC Heater Core  N/A
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 2
    • Core Height (in): 7-3/8
    • Core Width (in): 6
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - Ford
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Lincoln Mark VIII N/A

Latest Lincoln Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 lincoln mark VIII, no heat for my baby grandson!

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From dylansgrandma on 1997 lincoln mark VIII, no heat for my baby grandson!

we have a 1997 lincoln mark VIII and the heat isnt working, the blower works but no heat, any ideas what might be wrong?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core.
If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. it is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.
If they are both not too hot to hold on to, then you either have a restricted heater core or the system is not completely full and getting air pockets for some reason.

Response From rebelman123456

could be thermostat

Response From dylansgrandma

is there a way to check it and see if its bad?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There's a long list of maybe reasons. Is there even a proper amount of coolant in it? Does temp gauge show a normal temp?

T

93 deville timing cover gasket seepage

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mike93 on 93 deville timing cover gasket seepage

Hi how are you doing I was wondering should I worry about the timing cover gasket starting to seep or no it's very little no oil on the ground or anything is that ok for now or what?

Response From steve01832

Slight seepages usually turn into major leaks eventually. You should put that gasket on the things-to-do list and check your oil every couple of days.

Steve

Response From mike93

ok thanks will do also trying to figure out why i gotta keep putting coolant in the reservoir every two weeks no leaks or anything radiator is always full just coolant reservoir

Response From steve01832

The coolant reservoir is basically an expansion/reserve tank. If no tank leaks present, and you are topping it off every 2 weeks, somewhere the coolant is leaking or is getting burned. You may want to pressure test the system to verify there are no leaks. Really check the "weep hole" on the underside of the water pump for any signs of coolant or staining. If all checks out ok, you may have an intake or a cylinder head leaking coolant internally.

Steve

Response From mike93

The car runs great though but im gonna check it out and make sure the tank isn't leaking or anything else if it was one or the other wouldn't the car run like shit

Response From mike93 Top Rated Answer

also when i had a intake manifold in my lincoln that time my coolant was milky. also my heater core is clogged and sometimes only sometimes when i shut the car off i hear a bubbling noise

still the 2000 Lincoln LS

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Bigdaddy63 on still the 2000 Lincoln LS

The car now has no hot water going into the heater core is what the mechanic said. He said to start with a radiator flush and a thermostat change. There is NO heat blowing at all. It is all cold. The motor is a 3.9 L Jag motor. Can it be the thermostat? If it is, what type of time should it take to fix. I broke my back and had 2 rods, 6 screws and a metal cage put in. I have NO money to throw away. I need her to have her car with heat and defrost!!
Please help :)
Bill
Ohio

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You need to stop creating duplicate questions. Make your responses to your original question.

Power steering fluid

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From rangerbull on Power steering fluid

got a 1999 ford f150 4x4 4.6L and was coming home from a fishing trip pulling my boat at 70 mph down interstate. we started smelling what seemed to smell like anti freeze but truck wasnt heating up. air condition was on. turned air condition off and smell wasnt as bad but still there. we pulled in to a truck stop and checked under hold and everything seemed to be ok except for power streeing fluid looked as if it was boiling or being shaken up. turned truck off and it stopped. no leakage as we can see around air con and no leaks anywhere. truck runs fine. air is still ice cold. anybody know what I am smelling

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Odor and PS fluid boiling. Do you mean you checked it with engine running and if so it would look like that. What PS or hydraulic oils can do is foam such that the air bubble displace fluid and can spill over onto whatever and burn.


Hey - 70MPH with a trailer and probably hot side of weather it's maxed out. If you don't have a PS oil cooler you may need one AND an upgrade of fluid to a high end compatible fluid which may be a synthetic trans fluid or other but must be compatible.


Other again: This engine also was made in many or all for some years with a plastic intake manifold that did seal coolant and could leak. An ear of it would crack and only a new one was/is the fix.


You don't see anything on ground or other evidence other than odor so isn't clear yet? What is low if anything?


Some if it's been a while since a long hard ride cake like oily stuff that could be normal got hot enough to drip down on something hot so odor would be the best evidence then looking at hot parts (exhaust parts) for the evidence.


It's working hard and if you expect it to in even moderate extremes you add coolers for things like PS, trans fluid or upgrade cooling system in general.


IMO - an F-150 is great but the work and load ability is the same as just a full size car of the same basic drivetrain layout and probably exceeding what it was meant to do. Problem will follow if overworked,


T

Response From rangerbull

this morning I drove truck and tried turning on heater to see if that was a problem and had fluid run down from under dash and still smelled of anti freeze. thinking maybe heater core as I had no heat and windsheild started fogging up on defrost. what do you think on that. watched some vidios and seems like a big job to under take for me.

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, sounds like you hit the nail on the head on that one. Heater core for sure.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree, nailed especially if you can even see an antifreeze drip. Now till you can do that make a "U" turn at the heater hoses at the firewall. Reason is some have a lot to do with even internal engine temps. Till you really need heat if no other issues keep it full and bypassed that way and you should be fine.


Just one more. If you do need defrost it wont work well so carry towels till done. Heater core can be a tough job,


Tom
(edited in to add) Good time to replace heater or other hoses for the job. Warning: Some Fords in particular use a restrictor in the inlet hose to the heater core and you should find one. If not it may need one as engine RPM when stressed the water pumps could blow heater cores from pressure above the rating of the cap when working hard and hot! If mine I'd put one in just anyway as without and was uses you can hear water (coolant) running thru the core sometimes. It's a small tapered metal plug* that goes INSIDE the inlet heater hose. Sorry if not used on this it's never discussed on ones that did!
That plug was factory installed hidden in the hose and usually discarded not knowing one was there. Feel for it - if OE hose and not there it didn't have one by all chances nor need one.........

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Something to keep in mind, especially when it pays 7 hours to do a heater core on one of those.




TSB 06-21-19

10/30/06

HEATER CORE LEAKAGE AND ELECTROLYSIS (INFORMATION ONLY)

FORD:
1997-2002 Contour
1997-2007 Crown Victoria, Mustang, Taurus
2000-2007 Focus
2002-2005 Thunderbird
2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle
2006-2007 Fusion
1997-1999 F-250 Light Duty
1997-2003 Windstar
1997-2007 E-Series, Expedition, Explorer,
F-150, F-53 Motorhome Chassis,
F-Super Duty, Ranger

2000-2005 Excursion
2001-2003 Explorer Sport
2001-2007 Escape, Explorer Sport Trac
2004 F-150 Heritage
2004-2007 Freestar
2005-2007 Escape Hybrid
1999-2007 F-650, F-750

LINCOLN:
1997-2002 Continental
1997-2007 Town Car
2000-2006 Lincoln LS
2006 Zephyr
2007 MKZ
1998-2007 Navigator
2002-2003 Blackwood
2003-2005 Aviator
2006-2007 Mark LT

MERCURY:
1997-2002 Cougar, Mystique
1997-2005 Sable
1997-2007 Grand Marquis
2005-2007 Montego
2006-2007 Milan
1997-2002 Villager
1997-2007 Mountaineer
2005-2007 Mariner
2006-2007 Mariner Hybrid

This article supersedes TSB 01-15-6 to update the vehicle model years and Service Procedure.

ISSUE
The majority of repeat heater core leaks are due to high flow rate or use of poor quality coolant. However, electrolysis should also be checked, especially when repeat repairs have occurred.

ACTION
If the heater core is leaking, review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant:

a. If leaks are found on the inlet (or outlet) tubes entering / exiting the heater core, it is most likely due to due to high flow rate - replace the heater core and install a restrictor in the heater hose closest to the engine block, reference Workshop Manual, Section 412.

b. If leaks are found in the body of the heater core itself, and does not appear to be the result of physical damage like contact or puncture, check the coolant for possible electrolysis.

Testing For Electrolysis

Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.

1. Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.

a. Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.

b. Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.

NOTE
POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.

c. Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.

d. If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.

e. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.

f. Reconnect battery cables.

g. Refill the system with appropriate Motorcraft® engine coolant.

2. Check for loose or missing grounds at static conditions.

a. Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but do not start engine.

b. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.

c. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all grounds OK.

d. Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and clean ground cable connections.

e. Check accessories without using the on off switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use a jumper wire to ground.

f. Plug in engine block heater, if equipped, and test.

g. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.

h. Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.

3. Check for loose, missing, or inadequate grounds.

a. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.

b. Crank engine but do not start.

c. Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or equal to 0.4 V OK

d. If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair starter.

e. Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.

f. Turn on all accessories including those customer only uses occasionally such as CB radio, cell phone, etc.

g. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.

h. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK

i. If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a time until V drops to less than or equal to 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just identified.

j. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V

k. Turn the DVOM to AC volts.

l. Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.

m. If any AC voltage is present then try turning off each accessory one at a time including blower motor and any fan motors.

n. If AC voltage is still present then shut engine off and remove B+ from the alternator and tape it up then retest.

o. If voltage drop is gradual to less than or equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may simply be overloaded by added accessories. Test by using heavy gauge jumper to ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge ground strap(s) and recheck.

NOTE
If vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, be sure they cycle during this testing and monitor voltage when they are on and when off.

CAUTION
DO NOT GROUND HEATER CORE. IF THE HEATER CORE IS GROUNDED, YOU HAVE PROVIDED THE ELECTROLOSIS A PATH THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE HEATER CORE TO BECOME AN ANODE OR RECEIVER AND IT WOULD PROMOTE THE ELECTROLOSIS, OR ANY STRAY VOLTAGE TO USE THE COOLANT AS THE GROUND PATH.

4. Refill the engine cooling system, reference Workshop Manual, Section 303-03.

NOTE
IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.

1990 Town Car 5.0 v8 cooling problems

Showing 5 out of 13 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From magic_ninja on 1990 Town Car 5.0 v8 cooling problems

Okay so last winter i hooked up a bypassed heater-core on my lincoln (it was bypassed when i bought the car and now i have a heater-core to install). Anyway, since then I have had nothing but trouble from the coolant system of the car and the pipes coming out of the core to under the hood were not blocked off. I let it set for a month and the overheating problems went away, around 2-3 months later the water pump went out. Its been about 2 months since i changed the water pump and it has been overheating while running the AC in town or idling (i have not let it get to a dangerous temp though). Today I noticed coolant leaking and checked, and it was the same leaking as before (my water pump is out again). I need to figure out whats going on with my coolant system in the car and what i should do to get it up to par. This motor has 120,000 miles on it, so its got alot of life left in it. It runs fine as well. What should i do to keep the water pump from going out again and get the cooling system up to par (i noticed it had a lot of rust and corrosion and has had straight water ran in it for a couple years).

HERE IS SOME NEW INFO:
Okay so I idled the car with the AC on (to create the problem scenario) and filled the radiator completely (fill the radiator, wait for it to go down, fill some more, until completely full and also getting the air out of the system). Once completely full i kept the cap on and let it idle, idled for around 30 minutes all together, and it didn't overheat and i didn't notice the leak coming from the bottom two pulleys (water-pump and power steering pulley's i believe, its two pulleys one right in front of the other at the spot for the crank pulley and harmonic balancer). I probably got the names of the pulley's wrong but i can provide photographs if needed. Could heat be manipulating one of the hoses/clamps on the waterpump to be causing this leak? I would think if it was a bad water-pump it would be leaking all the time, and even after 30 minutes of idling and the coolant being completely warm there was no leakage from the water pump.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; You need to find out, for sure, where the leak is originating. There is a by-pass hose directly above the water pump that can leak, a faulty pump of course, or the timing cover gasket. A pressure test should confirm if it's the hose or the timing cover gasket. I've run into water pumps that would leak only 1)when hot, 2)when cold, 3)under pressure, 4)no pressure. You should be able to take a look at the seep hole on the underside of the pump to see if there is a 'coolant trail' where it may have leaked. Not sure if this engine/application uses electric cooling fan(s). If it does, make sure that they are coming on once it has reached temp. If it uses a clutch fan, make sure it 'locks up' once the engine reaches temp. You shouldn't be able to 'spin' it when warm. Oh, and never use rebuilt water pumps. Only new.
Once your leak is solved, get that system clean. May take several flushes. May result in more leaks...freeze plugs, ect. I had a '92 Lincoln TC in yesterday. Mint condition, except for the cooling system. Every one of the freeze plugs were leaking, including the ones at the rear of the engine. The engine is going to have to be removed to do all of them.

Response From magic_ninja

Okay, here is what I've got.

Drove the car around today with AC on max and got the car heated (took about 20 miles of driving). Once the car was up to operating temps I let it idle and water started leaking from the top bleeder hole of the water pump. Obviously this needs replaced. It was a new pump, and matched the one I pulled off perfectly. It has a lifetime warranty on it as well, so I can get a new one. I did apply silicon, RTV, whatever you choose to call it (thermal grade as well). I also torqued the bolts to specifications, however all I had was a needle wrench, but I am pretty sure it accurately did the job. The system was probably a 35/70 mixture of coolant/water with around 5-10% leftover from the old engine.

Fan Clutch - Performing fine.
Heater Hoses:

I'm sure I hooked them up right, based on the sizes each hose could only reach one side of the heater core.

My questions:
1. Its obvious this cooling system has been neglected and if I don't get it in order I'll end up blowing the motor or the head-gasket at least. I need to get the cooling system clean and up to par. What would be the best process to flush my system during the repair (could I do it before the water-pump as long as I keep the car idle). I would like to get all the gunk out of my system, as I have a new heater-core as well. I would like to have clean coolant flowing through the heater-core.

2.What other things might I want to look into, could the radiator be the primary cause of this? What will I need to do to make sure the cooling system is cleaned?

Repairs performed:
Coolant system flush
Top and Bottom radiator hoses
Water pump

I do have the book for this vehicle as well, so I have the specs I need for everything, as well as the owner's manual.

Thanks for your replies.

Added: what are freeze plugs, where are they located?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; In two months, I doubt that it would be the rust that caused the pump failure; And, there's nothing you could have done to cause it. Just happens. There is a seal inside the pump that fails. And, there are varying qualities of replacement pumps. Don't know where you purchased yours, but try and stay with a good quality pump. Even they 'can' go bad, but less likely.

Not sure what a 'needle' wrench is?

As far as flushing goes; If you remove the thermostat, this procedure will be quicker; I'd do it before replacing the pump, if you can do it without overheating. Most parts stores sell flush chemicals. Drain the coolant out of the radiator (if still clean, you can save and reuse it; If not, dispose of it properly) and refill with water. Run the engine until warm, then drain and fill again. You can't do this too many times. Each time, it'll get a bit cleaner. Once you are 'satisfied' with the results, refill again with water, add the flush chemical, and do it again following the instructions on the chemical container. This stuff will be, more than likely, toxic, so when you drain it out, dispose of it properly. I would suggest doing one last clean water flush afterwards to make sure you've got all of the chemical out of the system. A 50/50 mix with water and anti-freeze is ideal. Too much anti-freeze can cause an over heating condition as it doesn't dissapate the heat as well as water. Too little anti-freeze doesn't give you enough freeze protection, rust protection, and boil temp. protection.

Freeze plugs, or soft plugs, really aren't what they say they are. I used to think that they were there in case the water in the engine block froze, they'd allow for the expansion and be 'pushed' out, saving the block. Although I have actually seen this, that isn't what they were designed for. Usually, there are three on each side of the engine block, one or two at the rear of the engine (have to pull the engine or transmission to see them) and usually one at each end of each cylinder head. Replacing the plugs isn't a tough job once you've gained access. THAT (gaining access) can be a nightmare. On your application, it would probably be easier to remove the engine and replace all of them. If it comes to that.

Response From magic_ninja

Alright, well flushed the radiator, I used a garden-type pressure hose (has like 8 or so settings, not very much psi) and flushed from the top of the radiator on both sides down and the water ran out fine, at the same rate as it was flowing in and clear as well after a little bit. Then i removed the thermostat and sprayed into the thermostat housing, the water ran from the bottom of the waterpump with fine pressure and clear as well after a bit. Tested the thermostat by dropping it into boiling water and after a minute, it opened up just fine and slowly closed after i removed it. Doing the water-pump tomarrow.

As for the pump I used not sure, it was a 42 dollar water pump and bought from oriely's new. We pretty much only have autozone and oreily's here and I never have been much of a fan of autozone. We will see what happens after the 2nd waterpump repair and if it fails again. The coolant flow seems to be fine, btw i reccomend a racheting wrench if you ever have to remove a thermostat from one of these, the waterpump, alternator bracket and distributor are RIGHT in the way of any rachet access, lol, and its a pain in the ass with a locktighted bolt on :-(. Getting a new radiator cap, thermostat gasket and waterpump tomarrow as my radiator cap has a crack on the rubber seal inside the top of the cap, not sure if this could be the culprit of overheating myself, but it very well could be.

Response From Sidom


alternator bracket and distributor are RIGHT in the way of any rachet access
If you have a timing light, moving the dist makes it a lot easier.... the module is right in the way.

Response From magic_ninja

I just used a normal ole 1/2 wrench and it gets the job done, however much your fingers may hurt at the end.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

The radiator cap is very important. First, it seals the system. If air can get in there, rust will be the result. Secondly, it keeps the water IN the system. Otherwise, the water will just go past the cap, into the recovery bottle. The bottle will overflow, and won't get 'sucked' back into the radiator once it cools down. Thirdly, a pressurize system raises the boiling point. Straight water without pressure boils at 212F. Under pressure, that boiling point climbs at varying degrees of pressure. I'm sure someone here has a chart.... I should have asked you about the cap at the beginning of this. Sorry.

Response From magic_ninja

Is there any way you guys can post me the torque specs for the power steering pump and water pump, I can't find my manual. Thanks.

Also if you can post a diagram of where the heater-core is in the dash it would help a great deal as i'm doing this too before I fill the cooling system back up.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

magic; The water pump mounting bolt torque spec is 12-18 ft.lbs. Couldn't find anything on the power steering, though. I would think 25 ft.lbs. should be sufficient.
The heater core replacement is not for a novice. The whole dash has to come off. For an experienced tech, the labor time is 6.2 hrs. You may want to reconsider this? btw, it is mounted under the dash, behind the glove box, inside a plastic box that is easy to break, along with electrical connections, ect., ect.
I've been doing this for nearly 40 years, and I don't hate myself enough to tackle a job like this. If you are determined to do it, I'd suggest buying a GOOD manual that give step by step instructions. Good luck.

Response From magic_ninja

Thank you, I got all back together today with the waterpump, minus the fan/clutch fan shroud top/bottom heater hoses and alternator and assembly. As far as the heater core goes my uncle has done several and can provide help if I get stuck, the electronics don't worry me as its kind of one of my hobbies, and it shouldn't be that difficult. Thanks for the advice and I'll keep posting updates to see how the heater-core hoses go

BTW i broke a bolt on the air conditioner compressor pulley. There is still two and the pulley is held on strong/sturdy as I got the bolt in completely before it broke. I know its not the smartest thing, but you think the pulley will still hold fine? If not i'll end up using some african american inginuity to get it done.

Okay, IT IS NOT THE AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR PULLEY. Not sure which pulley it is, but its at the bottom left of the engine looking at it from the front. Anyway I figured out how to get the bolt out, thanks for all the help guys, its about time for a new heater-core thread :-). My uncle is a mechanic and said if i get stuck he will come help me.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; With your attidute, patience, and determination, I feel pretty confident that you'll get through it. Please, keep us posted.

Response From magic_ninja

It was the air pump, only found that out after I pulled it off. Looked on the net, found out about easy-outs drilled it out (easy out got it 2-3 threads out then broke lol) but enough that it broke the bolt and I could unscrew it out. Got dark once we got to the fan clutch/fan (lol i forgot to put the pulley on the fan/clutch) so hopefullyt omarrow i'm filling back up. Save the heater-core til I figure out why the impala is overheating. Coolant boiling out of resivior after some sustained driving. My guess would be a stuck thermostat. Anyway thanks for the help, I'll try to help answer some questions ont he site as well. I'm not professional but my entire family does their own mechanic work, and a good job at that, so even though I just started I already have a background of knowledge, i just need to aquire the know-how, and only one way to do that.