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2001 Chevrolet Lumina HVAC Heater Core Spectra

P311-0E87D41    94485  New

279169 , 6603390 , 1811704 , 1560044 , 96022 , HTR010150 , 94485 , 3091147 , 2525 , H6253 , HT398238 , 6253 , 90485 , 60044 , 398238 , 3390 , 52487191 , 98485 , 702507 , 8276 , 93485 , 8238 , 9010213 , 1089 , 90525

Spectra HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium HVAC heater cores meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
2001 - Chevrolet Lumina
1999 Chevrolet Lumina HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-3F90E71    9010213  New

42893485 , 398238 , 94485 , 90525 , 98485 , 96022 , 3091147 , 8276 , 60044

APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 1
    • Core Height (in): 8-3/8
    • Core Width (in): 6-3/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
1999 - Chevrolet Lumina
Global Parts
1990 Chevrolet Lumina HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.5L Global Parts

P311-4EF030A    8231251  New

Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
  • Heater cores transfer heat from the engine's cooling system to the inside of the vehicle. Thermostat housing and water outlets are connections that transfer coolant between the radiator and the engine block and generally house the thermostat.
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Chevrolet Lumina L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 2474
One Stop Solutions
2001 Chevrolet Lumina HVAC Heater Core 6 Cyl 3.1L One Stop Solutions

P311-449E345    98485  New

94485 , 398238

One Stop Solutions HVAC Heater Core
  • OSC Cooling Products 98485 New Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • ASIN: B004kmo85c
    • BulletPoint 1: Features Drop-in Fit, Form, And Function
    • BulletPoint 2: Offers To Solve Original Design Failures And Improve The Life Of High Mileage Vehicles
    • BulletPoint 3: Utilizes Cycle, Vibration, Burst, And Environmental State Of The Art Testing
    • BulletPoint 4: Features Premium Grade Materials Ensuring Added Product Longevity
    • BulletPoint 5: Improves The Life Of High Mileage Vehicles
  • OSC Premium New Automotive Heater Cores are designed to Original Equipment's form and function. OSC's heater cores are technically advanced and made from premium grade Aluminum. The tubes are cadmium plated inside and out to prevent premature failure. Each heater core is individually pressure tested. All necessary foam and accessories are included in each unit. NOTE: All OSC Heater Cores are made from Aluminum. They are a direct replacement for a copper designed Heater Core.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Chevrolet Lumina V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -

Latest Chevrolet Lumina Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1993 Chev. Lumina Water leak

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From fireman06 on 1993 Chev. Lumina Water leak

I have a 1993 Chevrolet Lumina with a 3.1L motor. The car is a 4 door sedan with around 124,000 miles. I have a water leak on the drivers side. The car floor will get soaked on the drivers side when it is just parked out in the rain. I had the heater core checked for a leak at a radiator shop, they pressure tested it and said there was no loss of pressure. The insulation behind the brake pedal area seems to be wet up along the firewall, I am not sure if the water is maybe leaking down the firewall or if the insulation is just wicking the water up from the floorboard. I took off the molding along the outside bottom of the windshield but could see no obvious problems with the seal. I am at a loss at where the water could be coming from. I am not able to park the car under cover so I need to find where the water is coming in from. Any thoughts?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Somewhat common and a possibility is the windshield. You could try taping off sides then top with painter quality tape glass over seal to paint and if problem goes away that would be it. Painter's tape if good stuff will seal out water but remove cleanly later vs fighting with goo from other tapes. I'd be looking for that and especially if windshield has been replaced or rust is an issue,


Response From fireman06 Top Rated Answer

I have spent the better part of the last 2 days looking for the leak, without success. I peeled back the carpet and pad, which was soaked, took off as much trim as I could and then put the garden hose on it and looked for water coming in. I finally found water leaking down on firewall near the emergency brake mounting, and sometimes behind the brake pedal area. I tried taping off the windshield and did not have a leak when running water over the window area. The only time I seem to get water coming in the car is when I flood water under the wipers area on the drivers side. I looked in that area as best I could but can't see anything obvious. If anyone knows where there are possibly any drain holes I could check that may help. Or possibly something else?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Water can travel from source and if now NOT a windshield it will be tricky IMO. The fresh air that comes into the car comes from the area where wiper arms mount and that does need to drain out as of course folks get air without the water coming in.

Most of the "HVAC" box for heat and A/C is on the passenger's side but it can travel as said. For whatever reason - a crack, flaw in a seal, plugged drain with heavy pollen or small foliage that can get thru screens, mud wasps etc., it needs to be found.

May take some help to isolate. I've seen/heard of this on even new cars and sometimes they would "gas" the interior and try to detect the source coming out and chase it that way. Glass places may have suggestions for tough to find ones too.

Perhaps you can see something from the underside that's plugged up.

At any rate, when all fixed absolutely dry out carpet and padding as the moisture under it won't just dry out so easy on it's own. Lift it up, fans - whatever it takes or you'll be like Fred Flintstone's car with your feet on the ground except with rust holes!

Could be tough to find,


Response From fireman06

So today my brother helped me and we took off the covers from the wiper area, took out the wiper motor and supports, and visualized the area. We saw nothing obvious. We then peeled back the carpet and I watched the inside area while my brother used a hose to direct water everywhere along the windshield and the firewall, and inside the engine compartment even. There was absoulely no water leaking in. We flowed water for about 30 minutes and got nowhere. Very frustrated now. Can't wait for the rain in the next couple of days to show me we are missing something.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If this is going to play hide and seek you'll go nuts. Back to first post you had pressure checked cooling system and if this was a heater core making such an amount you would be finding coolant level low and antifreeze would make an odor + fog windows such that they won't clean off easily. I hope you aren't running plain water in cooling system - ever.

There's a chance this was a one time thing with some debris in a drain and now gone - just can't say. Dry it out as best you can now with carpet up - fans - run heater (car's) whatever it takes. You may need help with this if the car is a "keeper" it can't stay wet under rug as it will mold up and be a problem.

Outside chance that the normal drain for A/C if still working is or was clogged and HVAC box was filling up with water even from use of defog or defroster the A/C is enabled taking some moisture out of incoming air even with warm/hot air request. Some GMs used an elephant nose drain hose (floppy end at firewall or box) that can stop draining or be intermittent AND wouldn't care about hose water or rain but by chance where it was parked perhaps a certain angle allowed plain water in. If you think something like that is even remotely possible find the dang thing. If an elbow with floppy end it can be snipped a bit without harm.

Almost all HVAC box moisture problems end up on passenger's floor but there could be an exeption.

Do use Lysol type spray product now. This can make you sick if mold and mildew build up in rugs and padding!

Good luck. Do let us know what you or anyone found as the source,


2003 Impala 3.4 base 240 degrees no heater

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From kevin10987 on 2003 Impala 3.4 base 240 degrees no heater

About a year ago, I had a thermostat put on my car because there was no heat and the temperature gauge was running about 160 degrees. Anyway, that fixed that.
Now, just recently (I got it parked and I am not driving right now), the car has no heat coming out of the heater and the temperature gauge goes up to 240 degrees and
then comes on down and then goes back up and then goes down and then goes back up and keeps doing that. I have added antifreeze (all purpose) and it seems to be getting
rid of it because the last time I started it, I filled the radiator up and the overfill coolant reservoir up and after looking inside both of them, I can not see the antifreeze.

Even after I fill the radiator and reservoir up, I have no heat. I had my dad (he's has a great mechanical mind but not a mechanic by profession) to tell me what thinks is the problem
and he told me it most likely needs a intake manifold gaskets replaced. He said that the 3.4 engine is known for needing the intake manifold gaskets replaced. I found a metal intake
gasket kit for $55.00 on eBay which is suppose to be the upgraded kit that the dealership would install on it if you took it to the dealership.

Did I waste my money or do you think this might possibly fix it? I going to have a retired mechanic that still does work on the side to complete the job because it'll be a lot less expensive
then have the known franchise garages and dealership garage complete the job.

What worries me is that there is still no heat even after I completely fill up both radiator and reservoir. If the intake gaskets are worn, then would that still have a no heat effect even after
adding plenty of antifreeze to the entire system.

When I bought the car used, I didn't think about it at the time but it had stuff in the radiator like someone tried stopping the leaks up in the coolant system with some kind of stop leak product.
It is pretty nasty.

But, granted, I got the car for $2800. At the time I bought it, kbb was showing an excellent condition impala for my year would have been $4000, so if this fixes it then I'll still be in the ball park.

If an intake gasket kit won't fix the problem, then what else can it be. If the thermostat was going bad then wouldn't I still have heat if the car is getting up to 240 degrees (red mark is 260 degrees). Heater core could be plugged up because the gunk that was added to stop the coolant leaks but why is the engine getting hot?

I appreciate some input. I'm not mechanically savvy at all. All I am told now is by my dad that has a hell of a lot more insight on mechanical stuff than I do and he told me get the intake gaskets replaced.

I don't think the head gaskets are worn because there is no white smoke coming out of my car's tail pipe and there is no antifreeze in my oil. My oil is very clean. I get that changed ever 4,000 miles. The engine seems to have good compression (the last time I drove it), but it is just keeps cycling up to 240 degrees as I drive it. I never got pass that mark. I'm guessing that stop leak gunk is starting to not work as well as it has been. Like I said, the gunk was in there before I bought it. Yeah, I should have guessed that I would had problems but it seem to do alright and I thought if I could get through a couple of years then $2800 is not a too bad of a price. Also, the car had 151,000 miles when I got it, so I thought it would had at least many years of life left in it before needing some repairs.

Response From kevin10987

Thanks for recommending a pressure test. I lucked out and found my intake or head gasket was not leaking. My radiator was busted. I guess someone tried plugging the radiator up with stop leak.

I was surprised that a radiator for my car is very cheap (compared to the parts store). It was about $58 for a brand new lifetime warranty radiator. I'm going to replace the hoses and flush out all that stop leak from my motor and give the car some clean delicious coolant.

Response From Hammer Time

Stop leak hardens when it hits air so don't plan on getting that out. You have a new radiator so it's probably the heater core that will still have problems.

Response From Hammer Time

Intake gaskets will not be your problem unless it is leaking externally. There is no way for the coolant to be drawn into a cylinder from an intake gasket on that engine and the gaskets won't be metal. The head gaskets are very common on that engine and in fact I am in the middle of doing my own 3.4 head gaskets.
Thge first thing you need to do is pressure test the system. The leak could be as simple as a hose or water pump.

Response From kevin10987 Top Rated Answer

I had a family member look at the engine. We started the vehicle up and looked at the water pump and could not see see anything leaking.
On the driver's side of the engine (way down low), there is some green stuff on the side of the engine. This is the only place I can obviously see
a leak. My hoses aren't wet with antifreeze or I don't see any wet spots.

Of course, I'll see if the retired person can pressure check the coolant system for me prior to replacing the intake gasket. The intake gasket that I purchase
says that they are metal gaskets ( link deleted ....... not allowed ). These gaskets cost $130.00 at Auto Zone. One eBay, $54.90. From eyeballing
the picture, they look exactly the same.

I hope a pressure check will determine something like a water pump or radiator hose, but I think gaskets have to be leaking because someone put quite a bit of stop leak gunk in it.

If it is the head gaskets, why isn't it sending a bunch of white smoke out the car's tail pipe. Also, I smelled of the exhaust and it don't smell of antifreeze. It just smells like normal exhaust

My dad told me he had a 1999 Chevrolet Lumina. He said he replaced the radiator, and water pump and both of those didn't fix it so I guess that is his decision it needs intake gaskets. But I'll
play it safer than that and go with your recommendation of having I pressure check.

Does a pressure check tools function differently than just starting the vehicle up and seeing where it might be leaking. I mean, isn't there pressure in the coolant system if you start the car up. I understand you don't have any gauges to see the pressure readings but it looks like to be me that if you start the car up and create the pressure that way then it would do the same thing. Unless a pressure check tool puts more pressure into the system forcing more antifreeze through the leaks.

Thanks for responding! I appreciate it very much!

Response From Hammer Time

There is no reason in the world to use metal gaskets on the intake. The sealing surface is rubber anyway and the rest of the gasket does nothing but hold position.

You shouldn't be ordering anything until you have verified a leak with a pressure test anyway.

If somebody put sealer in there, then you have probably already trashed the radiator and heater core. There is still a very good chance you have a blown head gasket.

Response From kevin10987

I'll get it pressured check. I guess if it is the head gaskets, then it will hell of a lot more than intake gasket replacement. I was told he did an intake gasket replacement for someone for $250 labor. So head gasket will be twice the amount of work. So I hope he can do it for $500.

Response From Hammer Time

You'll also have a couple hundred in machine shop charges to get the heads pressure tested and planed.

Response From kevin10987

I love the car and want to get it fixed. I fell in love with the 2003 Impala. Don't care for the newer ones so much. They look alright, but they're not my 2003 Impala. I went from a 2.2 engine to a 3.4 engine and damn there is a difference. Just as good gas mileage or better once out on the highway going about 70 mph and acceleration is far superior to the 2.2. Not sure if I could ever go with anything lower again.

I want to keep this car running for a decade or two. If that means a new engine and transmission overhauled within 8 years, well, if that has to be done, it has to be done. This car is just great.

Response From nickwarner

When you run an engine looking for leaks, you aren't able to get it hot enough to get to full pressure. A lot of leaks won't show without pressure. Thats where the pressure test is invaluable. You pressurize it to the limit of what the system was designed to hold and see if anything comes out. Then you fix the leak. A head gasket is still a possibility, and I hate that leak stop was in it. At the end of your repair a full coolant system flush needs to be done to rid that crap from your system.

The reason you are getting different heat coming inside the car is that this engine gets airlocked easily when low on coolant. The system must be bled of air to function properly and to give you heat. Air pockets have formed in your heater core so there isn't enough coolant to transfer heat for you. It is possible that combustion gasses from your cylinders are getting into the cooling system and causing this, which would indicate a bad head or head gasket. A chemical test can be done to this to determine if that is the case.

I like that style of Impala too. But its a ten year old car and getting into its parts-consuming years. I'm glad you're ready to weather that. They're a well built and comfortable car.

Response From MarineGrunt

I had an intake leak on a 3.4 and it was leaking on the driver's side. I also just did an intake on my sister's friends 3.1 and it was leaking on the same side. If the intake is leaking I would think it would be noticeable. Most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program. You put down a deposit for the tool and it's returned to you when you return in. My local Carquest doesn't require a deposit. It's simple pressure testing the system so you ought to go rent a tester. Take your air filter housing off so you can see the intake a little better.

Below is a picture of where the intake is. I didn't have a very good picture of the driver's side and this was the best one I had of the passenger side. There's an intake gasket on the front and one on the back. RTV gasket maker then connects the two. If looking at the engine from the side of the car think of the intake as a "V" You have a gasket on the left part of the "V" and another on the right. On the very bottom of the "V" is where the RTV is. On our minivan it was leaking on the driver's side back part of the "V" and on the 3.1 it was leaking on the driver's side front. A small inspector's mirror can come in handy to try and find out where yours is leaking from. You'll definitely need a mirror if you are looking for a head gasket leak unless you're able to look at it from underneath. If you do go under be sure to engage the parking brake, use jack stands, and chock the rear tires.

In the second picture is what it looks like with the intake off. I outlined the gasket with red lines and the rtv with blue lines. Hopefully it will give you an idea of where to look.

I ended up having to do the head gaskets a few months ago, Like HT said, it will cost about $200 to get the heads pressure tested and planed. I think I paid around $170. If you do end up needing head gaskets you definitely want to get the pressure tested and planed. There could be hairline cracks that aren't visible. They could also be warped and that's where the planning comes into play. If you skip doing this, and there is a small crack, the job will be for nothing and have to be done again so it's well worth the $200. If anything it's worth the peace of mind knowing your heads are good to go.