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APDI
1995 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-09385A5    9010257  New

398339 , 94761 , 60058 , 96045 , 98761 , 52463428 , 90682 , 8392

Qty:
$22.05
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 6-3/8
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Chevrolet Cavalier
APDI
1991 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-16181A2    9010187  New

60055 , 98496 , 90212 , 398310 , 398210 , 3058622 , 96012 , 94496 , 8210

Qty:
$35.68
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 6-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Chevrolet Cavalier
APDI
1987 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-16181A2    9010187  New

60055 , 98496 , 90212 , 398310 , 398210 , 3058622 , 96012 , 94496 , 8210

Qty:
$35.68
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • With AC
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 6-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Chevrolet Cavalier
APDI
1986 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-3F04CFB    9010198  New

98495 , 60061 , 3058620 , 8211 , 398211 , 94495 , 90211

Qty:
$45.12
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Without AC
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Depth (in): 1-1/4
    • Core Height (in): 8-3/8
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Chevrolet Cavalier
APDI
1983 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-042FC61    9010173  New

98612 , 94612 , 8201 , 3047169 , 90201 , 60032 , 398201

Qty:
$54.88
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Without AC
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Construction: V-cell
    • Core Height (in): 9-1/2
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Chevrolet Cavalier
Global Parts
1985 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core 6 Cyl 2.8L Global Parts

P311-0F125B8    8231257  New

Qty:
$41.54
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
  • 85-98 GM
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Chevrolet Cavalier V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
Global Parts
2002 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.4L Global Parts

P311-225FCA0    8231350  New

Qty:
$33.95
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
  • 95-03 Cavalier
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Chevrolet Cavalier GAS L 4 Cyl 2.4L 146 2392
LKQ
1989 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core LKQ

P311-1C26B51    HTR010160  New

Qty:
$30.60
LKQ HVAC Heater Core
  • With Air Conditioning; Aluminum; Height 6 1/4 Inches; Width 7 1/4 Inches; Thickness 1 1/4 Inches; Outlet 3/4 Inches; Inlet 5/8 Inches
  • HEATER CORE; WITH A/C; ALUMINUM
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Chevrolet Cavalier
LKQ
1994 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core LKQ

P311-1C26B51    HTR010160  New

Qty:
$30.60
LKQ HVAC Heater Core
  • Aluminum; Height 6 1/4 Inches; Width 7 1/4 Inches; Thickness 1 1/4 Inches; Outlet 3/4 Inches; Inlet 5/8 Inches
  • HEATER CORE; WITH A/C; ALUMINUM
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Chevrolet Cavalier
LKQ
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.2L LKQ

P311-534E48A    HTR010368  New

Qty:
$36.32
LKQ HVAC Heater Core
  • HEATER CORE; ALUMINUM
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chevrolet Cavalier L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198

Latest Chevrolet Cavalier Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000/Chevrolet/Cavalier/Cooling Leakage

Showing 8 out of 15 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From bambino12 on 2000/Chevrolet/Cavalier/Cooling Leakage

Hello All!

I own a Chevrolet Cavalier year 2000, 2.2L engine. It is about 70 000 miles

There is a leakage in my cooling system.

Drops do not come either from radiation nor from coolant deposit, nor from the water pump.

I can see drops coming from a strange pipe.

Im bad to explain things, I attach a picture

There you can see the plastic pipe Im talking about. Also, you can see the coolant pond on the floor.

About a month ago I took my car to service (tunning, refill all levels, oil change, engine wash and so on). I wonder if the guys at the service center forgot to connect something.

Also, I don't use this car too much, I only use it on weekends. Last weekend I just noticed a bad smell (like something burning) and that´s the way I noticed there was a leakage, it was the smell of hot coolant fluid. I also replaced the deposit's cap, since the previous one just broke, I guess because of the heat.

I noticed then the "low coolant level" warning light in my dahsboard.

Thanks all!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That little rubber elbow is to let water (condensate) from the air conditioner out in season when they make water in humid weather. The same case (inside car) hold the heater core which is a miniature radiator for heat. If that leaks it could leak engine coolant out that hose but usually there is a sign on the right interior floor or if you look up under there it might show some coolant - is slippery in fingers compared to plain water - wash hands please if you get it on them.

That's what the thing looks like to me. I could be wrong and a heater core replacement should be verified by someone checking that out in person. Sometimes a hose can leak or have a pin hole that squirts like fishing line and make some place show coolant and the leak isn't there at all!

I'd have the system pressure tested and point out where you have seen coolant but don't make the diagnosis for them or you just may get a heater core and not need it! Fill cooling system now with proper mix of anti-freeze and water - usually 50/50 - filled at radiator first and then the tank (recovery) that you can see the level in. If this doesn't have a radiator cap it will have to be filled by taking a hose up high off as it may not draw in coolant from just the recovery tank when low enough to make the light come on or if the leak won't allow the vacuum action to draw it back in,

T

Good luck,

T

Response From bambino12

Hello Tom!!

I think you are rightm although my car lacks Air Conditioner system. In any casse I think you and Jim are right.

Will check the interior floor.

By the way, this morning I filled the deposit(recovery tank). Im not sure if radiator has any cap.

Well, I just filled deposit/recovery tank to the indicated level when cold.

Then I turned on the engine for about 5 minutes.

I looked at the floor, I noticed drops, continuos, not a line of fluid, just drops but very continuos, I would say about two drops per second.

It took me some time to identifie such elbow pipe that seems to go nowhere (as Jim said)

Will check the floor.

Many thanks!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That elbow pipe is just a drain for moisture if what I'm thinking and shouldn't have coolant either way as said. If all you have is a pressure radiator (even if not on the radiator itself) cap on the tank you added to then that cap is the pressure cap - if you have to unscrew it, it is the pressure cap and you could leave it loose to stop the dripping or slow it down. That tank is not capable of filling the whole cooling system once the level you can't see is down and you said a light was on which is probably sensing liquid in an end tank of the radiator itself which should always be full even though you can't see it.

This needs to be looked at and almost certainly is needing a new heater core. They almost always drip into the car when they are the leak as you have noticed.

If you leave the pressure cap loose that's just a temporary way to slow down the loss of coolant - not a fix. Don't lose the cap either.

You would get some coolant into the radiator and hence engine by just filling that reservior and start engine for a while - like just enough to show the temp needle coming up and shut it off - just wait till it's cool and it probably has taken back some coolant from that tank. If so - do that a few times till "low coolant" light is out and your next trip should be short and to get this taken care of. Now is a good time to be thankful for not having A/C as that would make the job much more complicated and expensive.

Hey - if you are going to drive this at all like this pay sharp attention to the gauges. Run heater on full heat request and low fan and if that goes cool on you the coolant is low or boiling - odd but an overheating car doesn't heat the interior thru the heater! This is probably just in need of the heater core right now and if you pay strict attention and do not overheat the car it would really help limit any further problems from overheating.

Good luck with it,

T

Response From Lando10101

Regardless of anything the system will have to be opened find a good mechanic some of them heater cores require major teardown . Good Luck

Response From bambino12

Tom and Lando,

Thanks again for all of your valuable help.

I keep note of your advice and it is amazing how much one can learn from this forum.

Tomorrow I will take it to my mechanic that is less than a mile away from home.

I pray this would not be an expensive repairment.

I will report any progress.

Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for letting us know. This car with no air conditioning should be MUCH easier to do what is usually a difficult job. I doubt it would be cheap but having to deal with A/C components can be more than half the work of replacing a heater core. Either way it's not really a good do it youself job unless you have some strong know how with these sorts of things - it's involved with assorted dash parts to get the case apart and or out to replace it,

T

Response From bambino12

Hello Tom, Jim, etc..

This morning I just took the car to my usual mechanic.

He did exactly the same diagnostic as you. It is the heat core. He explained me that this much like a small radiator that works to heat the air for defroster.

He gave me the option of totally disconnect such damaged radiator, and do some sort of bypass to avoid it and have the cooling system working just fine, at the price of lacking defroster.

I decided to go the expensive way. He is charging me about $300 bucks for all the job, including a new heat core.

I sometimes doubt wether mechanics really install original brand new parts. I decided to trust him as he is giving me warranty.

Do you think I got a good deal? Was I fooled?

many thanks!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That sounds great! You can bypass the heater in some circumstances as a temporary measure. It couldn't be something you could live without with any ice or defrosting need though - at least around here.

That's a nice price. Keep in mind that many cars that have A/C that must be emptied and refilled to do this job and that part alone would cost what your whole job is quoted for. Some of the cores can be fixed but most people today would replace them.

Good luck. All seems fair to me,

T

Response From Double J

I'm with Tom there....

Thats a super deal.....

Thanks for posting back.....

JIm

Response From Double J

Is that just a small elbow type hose,that comes out the firewall and goes nowhere..
If so..thats the evaporator case drain...
The heater core is probably leaking.
Do you notice any coolant inside on the passenger floorboard under the carpet?
Any unusual steam coming up thru the defrost duct..film on the windshield?
Thats what the pic's look like....

Response From bambino12 Top Rated Answer

Hello Jim!

Yeah!!

I think you are right.

My car doesn't have Air Conditioner, but it certainly has defrost/ventilation fan.

And the smell certainly comes from the defrost/ventilation ducts.

I will check about coolant inside the passenger floorboard.

Also, will turn on the defrost to see if some steam is forming on the windshield.

As I use my car little (only on weekends and for very short trips) I have not had time to look at details, but will do some testing.

So.... is the heater core some kind of device that heats the air for defrost purposes?

Do you think it would imply an expensive repair? Just don't want me to be fooled by my mechanic.

Many thanks!!!!!!!

I will report my findings! This forum is great!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Same heater core for heat or defrost. Not sure if the drain hose is still used for car without A/C or not but it shouldn't be leaking coolant there either way,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey Jim! Same thought except you were more concise!

T

Response From Double J

Great minds think alike...

I'm a man of few words...
Wished I could explain fully like you do.
You "Paint" the better picture for sure

overheating with heater on

Showing 3 out of 24 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From magicman201080 on overheating with heater on

I have a 2002 Chevrolet cavalier that all of a sudden started over heating with the heater going. heated up to over 200+ degrees last line before fed. shut heater off and temp went down. engine is a 2.2 has 155k miles please help. have had evap problem for some time and replaced all evap parts. now the heating problem starts

Response From Discretesignals

Doesn't really make sense for the vehicle to overheat when you turn the heater on and then cool off when the heater is switched off. Was the ac compressor running when it decided to start running hot? AC compressor will run on some models when you have the mode selected for defrost Does this overheat while your idling or cruising when you turn the heater on? How is the coolant condition and level. Might need to get hold of a scan tool, that you can watch the ECT value on, and see if it jives with the gauge.

Response From magicman201080

no sir the ac compressor wasn't running and the car heated up then shut heater off temp went back to normal range. was told could be heater core plugged. but I don't know fluid levels are at correct level and doesn't seem to change when checked heats up both idle and moving

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? This all began with replacing an A/C evaporator? Almost all are quite involved and most or many vehicles need or allow flow thru heater core and adjust or block temp with diverter/blend doors. Are or did you get heat when asked for or nothing?


The common denominator is the evaporator job then this so somehow something probably went wrong with that job. Both heather hoses should feel warm/hot in hand with any credible engine temp and if one is stone cold something is wrong. Yes a plugged core that is used (if so) as a bypass flow of coolant for engine will matter but all the time not making sense with just request for heat and showing hot.
OK - My question is do you get heat when asking for heat only on floor vent outlets? If not ever we check on why not,


T

Response From magicman201080

car was warm and melted ice on windshield the evap was the canister and surge soloed not the ac. car was running fine now today it overheated and when I shut off heater the temp went right back down to the normal temp around 195

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Let the confusion rule. When you mention an engine heating issue and recent "evap" I think normally techs would take that as A/C not evaporative emissions parts!


So let's start over: Still you say this began exactly when those parts were replaced? I'd just look and see if anything is obviously out of place, check coolant level now and you need to know that it's full in the radiator and engine air free despite this "evap" work shouldn't really have involved draining engine coolant but a wild maybe some wire got involved?


As DS said right away it's not consistent with use of heater and overheating, in fact if you were running too warm even on a hot day requesting heat should HELP cool engine not the other way - that leaves coolant level, plugged core if used as a by-pass for cooling system. I'd have to plain look.


Still - asked you if heater worked on floor vents not if it melted ice on windshield suggests you were using defroster/defog/or a section for both heat and mix with floor vents which does engage compressor if it is even close to warm enough under the hood it will engage compressor.


We need that OUT of the problem if there's a problem at all. Many of these cars do not hold a steady #/spot on the dash gauge and perhaps you are just now noticing?


Various ways when compressor is in a request mode fans come on in many needed or not for A/C and some know it's cold and don't and I'll never know which ones do what all off the top of my head.


Back to topic: If I had to guess you are low on coolant in radiator/engine which will cause bizarre behavior. If it wasn't touched then you need to know why if found low at all,


T

Response From magicman201080

had a service person look at the antifreeze and the level said both level and condition was fine. am going to try driving home later with out the heater on in any mode and see what happens will also stop and have a repairman look at it and see if they say what it is. have little to no money on fixed income and cant really afford this but ...........

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I asked for level in the radiator not easy to know if this doesn't have a radiator cap so that info is useless.


When it shows warm to near hot does fan for radiator come on under hood? That you can check. If cool weather some may not need to come on much or at all even sitting still,


T

Response From magicman201080

yes as it heats up the cooling fan kicks on and runs for awhile and then shuts off. was told that is normal operating for that. has no cap just plastic container on passenger side of engine compartment

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - That type the tank you see thru is also where the pressure cap is where you would ad BUT if there's a problem or system was drained for any reason you can't just fill the system from that!


Vacuum filled if it was drained or other tricks.


OK - You see if even the hose from that tank to the radiator had a leak it might not draw coolant back from tank to radiator and engine as it normally does when cooling down so air would be drawn back but the tank looks like it's fine - lousy way for car makers to do it that way.


Doubt you have any fancy tools so try this. Cold start, feel upper radiator hose for NO pressure by squeezing it. It may even make a sound of sloshing and air? Now as engine warms up that hose shouldn't have much pressure very quickly but see if it does for another possible problem. Let it warm up enough so hose now has some heat (careful) in it and by then some pressure. If none of that there's a problem to fix first before finding out what else might be wrong if anything.


System idea on this: Coolant expands when warmed up and sends the extra to that tank which is also going to allow pressure by the cap's design. As it approaches the pounds of the rating of that cap it lets coolant in and you see the marks for full cold and hot on those tanks.


Now when it cools the cap again when coolant is shrinking is only going to let back liquid coolant not air so system if perfect and designed perfectly would self purge out air and draw back just coolant/liquid but either anything wrong or not purged of air when working on it, it may never get all or enough air out and there's your reason for erratic temp gauge and heater use.


It stinks but you really may not know if system is full or if touched when the "evap" stuff was worked on and it does take time and some effort for anyone to fill the cooling system up properly - some may get close and think it will self purge out what's left and it never does.


Need to know if you have to take it somewhere and just have it vacuum filled. If so and problem is all gone that was it. Air/vapor will mess up sensors accuracy, real hot spots and perhaps sudden cold readings and so on. Gotta know it's full...........
T

Response From Hammer Time

Why are we messing around with anything? If the fan is cycling, the temperate is under control. You're just trying to fix something that isn't broken.

Response From magicman201080

hammertime you haveno idea how to fix anything and you are rude and think you know it all you don't need to respond to me anymore ill deal with the professionals that are on here

Response From Hammer Time


magicman201080 You keep running your mouth and you will be looking for another forum.

Maybe you think this is my first rodeo and I have no idea what I'm talking about. You would be very wrong about that. YHour car is operating exactly as it was designed to.

Response From Hammer Time

Maybe you need proof.


Cooling System Description and Operation

Cooling Fan Control

The engine cooling fan system consists of one cooling fan and one relay. The relay is powered by the battery positive voltage circuit and controlled by a switched ground from the powertrain control module (PCM).

During operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the cooling fan relay through the cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the cooling fan fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the cooling fan. The cooling fan motor is grounded through its own ground circuit.

The PCM commands the fan on under the following conditions:

  • Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 106°C (223°F).
  • A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1310 kPa (190 psi).
  • A/C is requested and vehicle speed is below 100 km/h (62 mph) with A/C pressure above 1413 kPa (205 psi).
  • Vehicle speed is less than 8 km/h (5 mph) for more than 750 seconds. The fan will turn off when vehicle speed is greater than 8 km/h (5 mph) for more than 20 seconds.

  • Response From magicman201080

    was told by a repairman that it is the water pump and that it is not pumping water. the bottom hose is cold and the top hose is hot with no water circulating thank you to the professionals on this site you were very helpful as for others well.............................. enough said about them

    Response From Hammer Time

    If I were you I'd be looking for a different repairman because he is wrong but you'll never come back here and admit he was wrong and you wasted your money.

    Response From Discretesignals

    I agree with HT. Something doesn't add up. If the water pump was bad, the engine would overheat fairly quickly. Also as HT stated the cooling fan would be running high speed and would never shut down. A pump that isn't pumping that great may also cause you to have poor heater performance.

    Which engine is this? The ECOtech or OHV LN4? Take a pic of the faulty pump when your mechanic gets it out. Post it up in here. Curious to see what it looks like.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I don't even get what he is chasing here. It appears to be just the fact that the temp gauge goes over 200. That isn't going to change no matter how many pumps he changes.

    I bet I don't get an apology when he finally realizes I'm right either.

    Response From nickwarner

    As an ASE certified master tech, HT actually does know how to fix something. You have already stated you do not.

    He has tried to explain to you that you do not have anything physically broken on your car that will damage your engine and cause you to need to spend the money you have stated you do not have to spend.

    Your cooling fan is set to come on at a certain temp to draw the engine temp down, and once it has done that to cycle back off to prevent the engine from running cold. There is a sweet spot it needs to run at tempwise. If your car was overheating, the fan would be staying on as the ECM would realize it had not yet succeeded in dropping your engine temp enough. The fan coming off proves it has done this.

    Your heater core isn't plugged if you are feeling good heat coming out of your vents. A plugged core gives off little to no heat. It also cannot make your engine overheat. It is essentially a mini radiator placed there for your comfort, not for engine cooling.

    Your gauge and your computer use two different sensors to read coolant temp. It is possible you have a bad one for the gauge or some other issue giving you these readings, and remember as HT pointed out this car was designed to run 225 degrees at idle.

    But I really think getting lippy with a moderator is a bad idea whatever forum you use, especially if you had actually taken the time to read the posts and realize that all of this has already been explained to you and you seem to either just not understand it or just seem to want to believe no matter what that something is wrong with your car.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Shutting off the heater has nothing to do with your overheating. I'm suspecting you still have air pockets in the system that need to be burped out.

    Don't forget, this engine is designed to run at over 225 at idle so that shouldn't be an issue.

    Response From magicman201080

    how would I have gotten air into the system? nothing had been repaired that had to do with the cooling system

    Response From Hammer Time

    If the fan is coming on and then shutting off, the car IS NOT overheating.

    Response From magicman201080

    was just told that it sounds like a water pump gone bad. don't see any leaks coming from it and antifreeze levels are fine

    Response From magicman201080

    im sorry I sound stupid but when it comes to cars I am. im not a mechanic and have to ask the professionals for help. I try everything I am told to try and still have no clue. if I am looked at as a problem please let me know I will try another site. thanks for all the help. I really do appreciate it.

    02 Chevy Cavalier overheating

    Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
    Question From MarineVet05 on 02 Chevy Cavalier overheating

    First off let me say, Thank You in advance.

    2002
    Chevrolet
    Cavalier
    2.2 L
    56,000 miles

    I have a problem with overheating, last week I was driving home with the A/C on and the car just started to overheat (Never had problem before). Shut it down and towed home, changed the thermostat (180 Degree). Same problem, temperature just keeps climbing. Changed the water pump and serpentine belt. Same thing, Keeps overheating. Flushed the entire system out, Heater core, Radiator, Took the Reservoir tank off and flushed it, Hoses....anything I could find. Put all new 50/50 mix back in. Cycled it a few times and checked the level. Started driving it with the heater off car ran normal (195-200), turned the heater on and the temperature started to climb, 215, 220, 235... I turned the heater off and continued driving about 35-45 mph and the temperature dropped back down to 195-200. Now I don't have a full head of hair , But now I have even less from pulling it out. I have bounced this off several auto mechanic friends and they came up with I need a new reservoir pressure cap (Done), I need to burp the system (Done), Etc, Etc..... PLEASE HELP.
    Anything you guys can come up with will be appreciated. By the way this is the first posting for me here, and if i posted in the wrong section I apologize.

    Response From Sidom

    One this one considering every thing you've done I would probably confirm that it is actually overheating. Does it seem like it's getting hot, any obvious signs?

    If you have access to a scanner, compare what the computer is seeing to what is registering on the gauge. If not, use a temp gun around the T stat housing and see what kind of a reading you are getting..

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Put the OE thermostat back in asap! 180F is just as open as OE at 195F so that was a foolish move and confuses the car.

    Use an infrared thermo if needed to see where heat goes or doesn't,

    T

    Response From MarineVet05

    Tom, I looked this up in chilton's, and 180 is OE according to them. Also, I threw the old thermostat out. Can you explain what you mean by confusing the car? (UPDATE) ...I drove the car this morning for 30 minutes (outside temp 65) and the temp stayed around 195-198. Put the heat on and it started climbing to about 225 or so. Coolant level was perfect before test. Just checked it now that it's cooled down, still good. Oil level has not changed. Could it be a bad heater core? I really can't afford to keep changing parts without cause. I've read some of the responses on this site and you guys are very clever in your thoughts. I'm crossing my fingers for the "MAGIC" answer.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I'm not sure what your reading but this car takes a 195 thermostat.

    The electric fans don't even come on until 223 degrees. In slow traffic, 225 to 230 is acceptable and normal

    Response From Robz327

    All right guys Ive been dealing with same problem and have done a decent mount of research of the matter. This car from what i keep seeing likes to run @195. In my opinion as a machanic that just seems to high to be right. The thermo opens at 180 at that point the factory cooling system should be able to keep it at the mark. Things to check is the temp differeces between the upper and lower radiator hoses the top one should be hot and the bot slightly cooler as it takes in water from the rad at the bottom. Also check the temp of the radiator at first I had no heat on one side and absolutly no heat on the lower hose. I ran thro the whole system forced water through the entire system to ensure there was no blockage. After this I have noticed that my lower hose its now getting hot and the radiator dosent have any cold spots. Perhasps there was a clog somewhere I cant say for sure but now knowing my water is going through the system the damn car still runs at 195. It dont get into the 200s at all but My gut tells me that 195 isnt where the motor should be at. I continued doing research and only thing that makes sense is the head gasket leaking exhaust into the coolant as everyone is having the same concerns about the temp being @ 195 and I read a ton of times that people are replacing everything in the cooling system and still having the car sit at 195. If theres no lost of water its still posible to have the head leaking HOT exhaust into the water jackets of the motor rasing the temp as the factory didnt plan on having hot exhaust in there coolant. To check for this Im told to use a smoge snifer to check for hydrocarbons.

    I'm not sure what your reading but this car takes a 195 thermostat. (180 degree)

    The electric fans don't even come on until 223 degrees. (223 is WAY to high to be the turn on point for your fan needs to kick on round 180)


    In your personal case Id say your problem is the fan not turning on at 180 like it supposed to. Now my fan kicks on perfectly @180 and I know my cooling system is 100% and the dam car wont stay under 195 . the only two problem left would be extremely lean fuel mixture or the dam head gasket. Lean mixture should set a DTC and there should be a lose in performance which I dont feel at all. My personal opinion is that this motor has a bad designed head that commonly leaks exhaust into coolant OF corse a head gasket is not something you want to just go a replace as it cost $$$$$$$ if you dont do it yourself *******DONT REPLACE THE HEADGASKET UNLESS YOU HAVE HYDROCARBONS IN YOUR COOLANT AND DONT GUESS EITHER KNOW FOR SURE BEFORE YOU GO AND DO SUCH A REPAIR*******. BUT I feel its worth testing the coolant for hydrocarbons thats my next step in the process of keeping this 2.2L from running hot. Ill post the results of my hydrocarbon test soon as I do it

    Response From Hammer Time

    This thread is 3 years old.
    Please read rules before posting.

    http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...ORE_POSTING_P123003/



    I would advise anyone reading this to ignore the previous post as it is full of incorrect information.

    Response From sarah_9

    Hello,


    When the cooling system of engine fail to absorb, transport and dissipate heat it cause overheating in engine, use high quality coolant, make sure that there is no external or internal leak in coolant,poor airflow through the radiator or defective radiator cap may also cause overheating, so check all these points properly, you may find your solution there.


    Regards,
    sarah_9


    Please remove the advertising from your signature ASAP

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Crap! That's what AutoZones parts said!! WT hell do I know? If there's a mistake in all that it sure isn't helping the fix!

    Folks used 160s and 180s in boats TMK NOT cars!

    T??

    Response From Hammer Time

    You know, I'm finding that in the application catalogs too but I find it hard to believe. I don't think an 02 car can pass emissions with a 180

    Response From Hammer Time

    Cooling System Description and Operation

    Cooling Fan Control
    The engine cooling fan system consists of one cooling fan and one relay. The relay is powered by the battery positive voltage circuit and controlled by a switched ground from the powertrain control module (PCM) .
    During operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the cooling fan relay through the cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the cooling fan fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the cooling fan. The cooling fan motor is grounded through its own ground circuit.
    The PCM commands the fan on under the following conditions:

  • Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 106°C (223°F) .
  • A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1310 kPa (190 psi) .
  • A/C is requested and vehicle speed is below 100 km/h (62 MPH) with A/C pressure above 1413 kPa (205 PSI) .
  • Vehicle speed is less than 8 km/h (5 mph) for more than 750 seconds. The fan will turn off when vehicle speed is greater than 8 km/h (5 mph) for more than 20 seconds.

  • Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Show off! Good for you and nice find.

    This "Bud's" for you,



    T

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    We crossed swords for a second there.

    VERIFY by VIN # if need be for correct temp. Trust me - it matters!

    T

    Response From MarineVet05

    Alright fellas, Newest update.. Drove it for the last 45-50 minutes. Temp was fluctuating between 197-225 with heat going and sitting still for 5-6 minutes(outside temp 71...Nice summer Chicago is having). Temp never went above 225. When driving about 40-50mph, temp stayed about 197-205. Maybe the flush treatment jarred something loose? Blockage worked it's way out? So I guess the question I have is, will driving the car within this temperature range be OK? Going to drive it to work tomorrow (about 32 miles), stop and go traffic.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Those temps are all normal. You haven't really tested it on a hot day though. you likely need a radiator.

    Response From MarineVet05

    Tom And Hammer, I just checked with Hanes repair guide and it backs-up Hammer's point of 195 degree for 2.2 OHV. But, it also says 180 for a 2.2L OHC. Now, when I went to Advanced Auto they asked for the 8th letter of the VIN which is a "4" which I was told means I have a 2.2L OHC which calls for a 180 thermostat. Now, I also must say that the car always ran about 195 (according to the dash gauge)before this happened. And, it's running about 195 now (without the heater running). In your opinion, do you guys think it will make a difference to switch this T-stat out to a 195? At this point I'll try just about anything.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I don't think it will fix your problem either way. If your not losing any coolant and it''s still overheats at highway speeds, it's probably a restricted radiator.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    / "Notes: 180 degrees Original equipment temperature. " ******************************** Egad! I stand corrected! 180 was OE and my fault entirely. Many for decades have been 192-195F and lowering that doesn't solve an overheat problem. If a car was designed for the higher temp it can think it's too cold and make wrong adjustments - not the case here. Now it's back to basics. Why did it overheat to begin with? From that you need know if all air is out - not just the recovery tank, and proceed with diagnostics for usuals like no fan or at worst a head gasket issue. Try to avoid replacing parts as a solution, both costly and screws up a diagnosis IMO. Can you feel heat blowing off radator? Also - can you verify if it's really overheating or just bad info?? Sorry for the mistake in OE temp spec., T

    Response From Hammer Time

    Have you checked the coolant level to determine if it's lost any coolant?